Graciously aged sterling silver, green stone inlay and warmly glowing copper combine in this Enrique Ledesma Mexican modernist necklace. Ledesma is a favorite Taxco maestro of mine - his modernism is soft and close to the heart; his designs emphasizing gently curving lines that are only enhanced by the richness of earth colors his inlays come in...

Circa 1930's-40's, this hand-wrought necklace is hallmarked with a simple early mark "Silver Mexico". I have previously had the identical design which was produced by Rafael Dominguez, as well I've seen it with the Antonio Pineda early mark. Twenty-seven lyre shaped panels are linked together with rectangular connectors topped with a copper bead set in the center of two silver beads. The looped hook closure is topped with four beads, copper alternating with silver...

This book-piece design produced by Margot de Taxco is shown in "Margot Van Voorhies : The Art of Mexican Enamelwork" by Penny C. Morrill.

This Margot de Taxco design is known as "Silver Leaves", or sometimes "Leaf and Berries". It's a heavy gorgeous repoussé sterling silver clamper cuff bracelet. The silver leaves have oxidized recesses and beading, making this a standout piece. Collector quality, with a tight snappy hinge...

Dating in the first decades of the 20th c. this Italian Renaissance Revival necklace is wrought in .800 silver and adorned with flat-cut and cabochon sodalite. In the same style as “Grand Tour” jewelry popularized by the Peruzzi and Coppini houses in Florence, this piece features grape clusters and leaves while also showcasing shell, floral garland and rosette links in its ornate chain...

Circa 1930's, this Fred Davis pin is very striking, with a design which I've not seen previously. The craftsmanship is superb with exquisite repoussé silver work. Measures 2 11/16" tall, 2" wide. Weight is 25.3 grams. Signed and hallmarked with a conjoined FD Made in Mexico Silver. In excellent vintage condition. Pin closes with a simple early spiral C clasp, and is very secure.

The early hallmarks on this brooch date 1940-1945. This pin was designed by Valentin Vidaurreta. Shown with onyx stones on p.79, II-12 in "Silver Masters of Mexico", also noted in this book is that Vidaurreta produced work both in his own workshop and at the Taller Borda, and that the pieces sold at Taller Borda were marked with the HA mark until the 1950's. This is an outstanding piece, large, exquisitely hand-crafted, and collector quality...

A symbol of good luck, abundance and contentment the “laughing Buddha” medallions adorning the links of this Chinese silver bracelet are carved out of turquoise and have rich detail. Slightly graduated in size the are held against classic Deco tight mesh panels overlaid with filigree tendrils, tiny beading and delicate plants in full bloom. The stone’s blueish green hue soothes the eye and its natural matrix enhances the medallions’ sculpturality...

With hallmarks dating 1953-1962, this pin was produced by Hector Aguilar.

This is an outstanding piece, and one which I have never seen before. This gorgeous bird has at it's center a large round bezel-set onyx cabochon...

Very cool sterling silver cuff bracelet made in 1971 in Sweden. The interior is smooth, and the exterior is textured. The light hitting the soft lines makes the piece apears always in motion. Hallmarked and signed: "GK," V9, Sterling, Sweden." Adjustable. 1.75" at the widest.

The art of "metales casados" (mixed or married metals) was practiced by several Taxco workshops yet I think Victoria was its queen. Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti combined copper, silver and brass not only to design exquisite jewelry but also hollowware of various kinds and decorative objects. In the necklace presented here she seems to be inspired by Egyptian Revival motifs which is not unusual for her - there are at least a couple of other parures she created that tread that same path...

Crafted in the late 1950s or in the 1960s, this sterling silver Mexican necklace is signed by Victoria or Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti. Victoria is one of the few female designers and silversmiths of Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of and she is credited, among others, for perfecting the “metales casados” or “married metals” technique. In this necklace, however, she adds a modernist twist to an otherwise “archeological” design...

How often does one find a ring by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma? Let me answer my question - almost never! Over the years of my buying, selling and researching vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come upon a few examples, almost all of them adorned with a color-change sapphire. I had never seen a ring in the design I am presenting here until I discovered this one some time ago...

I acquired this pair of Miguel Melendez’s hinged bangles as a set some time ago and after long deliberations, I decided that they should continue in life as such. Miguel is one of Taxco’s modernists yet he honed his skills at Spratling’s Las Delicias and working for Margot de Taxco for many years. This specific design is a favorite of mine’s by him - it brings to mind rock formations and I love the interplay of negative and positive space...

One of the most interesting - and few - female figures of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Doris Smith Chamberlin was a Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s to open her own workshop after having completed post-graduate studies in art and having taught woodworking, textile-making and silver-smithing for a few years in California (I am grateful to Decotini for the information)...

Every now and again, I will bump into a piece of Mexican jewelry incorporating an ancient artifact. Be that clay masks, carved little effigies or beads, they are always a treat and a source of great excitement...

This early Matl pin is an exceptional piece, with a beautiful oval turquoise at front and center. The hand-wrought repoussé silver has a warm patina. Measures 2 3/16" x 1 1/4" at the center. Weight is 19.6 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Matl" in script. Closes with a "c" clasp. Collector quality.

Abstract sterling silver ring by Danish designer Jacob Hull for B&D, circa 1970s. The top of the ring measures 1 1/8" x 7/8". Marked "Denmark, Sterling, Jacob Hull, B&D," and with a hallmark. Adjustable, currently size 6.5. Weighs 14 grams.

These Antonio Pineda earrings are a rare find. Collector quality, these are absolutely exquisite with a stunning modernist design. They have great movement and hang nice and long at 3". Screw backs work perfectly. Weight is 19.1 grams. Signed and hallmarked with the Antonio Taxco crown, eagle assay 208. In excellent vintage condition with no issues whatsoever.

Bearing the signature of Sanborn’s, the legendary Mexico City department store’s over whose antiquities and fine arts division Fred Davis was a supervisor in the mid-1930s, this wide, exuberant cuff bracelet is a classic for the genre. Repousse cuffs of this style came to be closely associated with Sanborn’s and Maciel though they were made by other, anonymous and “less celebrated” makers as well. The “Aztec Rose” design that covers the entirety of the bracelet’s surface here mus...

Tane Orfebres is an important silver house in Mexico City, known as the Tiffany of Mexico. This bracelet is wide, heavy, and gorgeous. It has a sleek modernist design, with the one half shiny and mirror like, and the opposite half bearing a slightly matte finish. I have never seen this design before, and it is a stunning bracelet. Signed and hallmarked "Tane Sterling Mexico", with an "A" within a triangle. No eagle assay on this one, but I believe it to be 1953-1980. This will fit up to...

These earrings produced by Hector Aguilar are a book-piece design, shown p. 87 Silver Masters of Mexico. They have a stunning deco design, with bell shaped pendants which are deeply incised. The recesses are oxidized, and 5 pendants dangle below. Screwbacks work perfectly. These measure 2 1/2" long, 1 1/16" wide. Weight is 19.4 grams. Signed and hallmarked "HA 940 Taxco" with the eagle assay 9. Collector quality.

Known for their high quality of holloware primarily, Ingrid's remains even today one of those elusive actors in the story of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Active in the 1930s and 1940s, as Bille Hougart reports, this retailer seems to have been the venue through which well-known maestros like Chato Castillo sold some of their creations. Based on my experience I can say that jewelry bearing their signature is not very often encountered but when it pops up, it is always on big, bold and bea...

This Antonio Pineda brooch is a superb modernist design featuring three amethyst "peas" in a "pod". Beautifully executed in 97% pure silver, this pin is collector quality. Measures 3 1/2" long, with a hefty weight of 29.7 grams. Pin closes with a roller. Signed and hallmarked with the Antonio Taxco crown, Hecho en Mexico 970 Silver, with the eagle assay 17 and design # PR571.

Handmade sterling silver keychain or watch fob designed (1940's) and signed by Taxco, Mexico artist Hector Aguilar (1905-1986). Belt slide is 1 1/2" X 1". Sterling chain is 17" long. 1.7 oz., 48 grams. Sterling key holder opens and closes perfectly. No dents or dings. Applied initials can be easily removed. Pictured on page 103 of SILVER MASTERS OF MEXICO by Penny Morrill. Great gift idea. US Priority mail shipping and insurance included.

These Antonio Pineda earrings have a silver wave design with emerald cut amethysts. Bearing the "Silver by Tono" hallmark which was used 1948-1953, this deco design is rarely seen. Each earring features four channel set amethyst gemstones, all well matched in color. The repoussé silver settings require the most skilled of silversmiths. Exquisitely crafted and oh so elegant. Measures 1" x 7/8". Signed and hallmarked "Silver by Tono", "Made in Mexico", with the eagle assay 17. Weight ...

This necklace was produced by P. Ochoa in Mexico City during the 1930's - 1940's. One seldom comes across the work of this silversmith, whose work closely mirrors that of Matilde Poulat. This necklace is hand-wrought with a carved onyx face/mask sitting within a highly detailed repoussé headdress. The centerpiece measures 1 13/16" x 1 15/16". End to end, which is also closed, wearable length, measures 21". Weight is 63.4 grams. Signed and hallmarked "P Ochoa 925 M". Collector...

Circa mid-century, this is a fabulous necklace and a real attention grabber. Measuring 4 3/4" wide at the top of the centerpiece, 2 5/8" wide at the bottom, it's a huge piece which lays beautifully upon the neck and frames it perfectly. The repoussé panels have silver domes graduating in size. Recesses are oxidized. Signed and hallmarked "SrC Taxco Mexico Sterling", with the eagle assay 3. Measures a closed, wearable length of 18". Weight is 95.6 grams. In excellent vintage c...

I know and admire maestro C. Molina's work for its superb craftsmanship and its monumentality but I was still not prepared for this set of stupedying dangle earrings! There is big, there is massive and then, there is the pair of shadowbox stunners I am presenting here tonight. Maestro Molina excelled in the application of the shadowbox technique which allowed him to create jewelry which are generous in proportions and convey a dramatic sense of depth while at the same time being light and easy t...

Circa mid-century, this clamper was hand-wrought by Los Castillo, and it is spectacular. Wide, large, heavy, and collector quality. The snail shell design has graduated beading which curves gently around the sides. Very substantial, with a weight of 104.4 grams. Hinge looks to be old and original, and it's super tight and snappy. Couldn't be more perfect. Recesses are oxidized, giving depth which makes this a standout piece. Fully closed this will fit up to a 6 1/2" wrist. Width is 2 1/4"....

Four figural links featuring classic Italian monuments and city symbols adorn this long, Renaissance Revival silver chain. This is the style associated with the Peruzzi and Coppini Bros workshops of Florence and based on the quality of the castings, I would suggest that it was made by either one of them. The figural links are complemented by floral ones while perfect sodalite beads add their strong color to the necklace. Long enough to be doubled-up as a choker, it can easily be enjoyed at its f...

An applied shimmering sterling double boomerang, riveted on the highly polished and oxidized body catches the eye in this vintage Mexican silver bracelet by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma. A successful marriage of the link and bangle forms, it is made up of three articulated “wings” and when worn maintains is circular shape perfectly. It’s been a while since I offered an example of this specific Ledesma line and I am very happy to be presenting this piece today. An erudite illust...

A masterfully crafted, meticulously finished frame of sterling lily pads accented with tiny beading and elegant little wire swirls surrounds a flat-top amethyst gem in the vintage studio ring I am presenting here. This type of silver-work and the specific foliate motif is easily identified as created by Mary Gage, one of the most talented - and indeed most eccentric - silversmiths of the late American Arts and Crafts movement. I have had a few pieces by Gage over the years - she does not seem to...

These fine, vintage / antique cufflinks are "chain links." They consist of inlaid jasper, bloodstone and agate in sterling silver. They are hallmarked J.C & S (for Joseph Cook & Sons). They also have the Anchor hallmark for Birmingham, England, the Lion Passant for 925 sterling silver and the date letter E for 1929. They are in excellent condition.

Potent design and perfect execution combine in this set of Antonio Pineda cufflinks shaped like bull skulls. Fine, .970 silver with a satin finish (which I love here!), horns of what I believe is obsidian and not onyx (they test as glass on my gem tester, which is what obsidian is, volcanic glass) and a haunting interplay of negative and positive space in the casting of the animal's skull bequeath an other-worldly aura to an already impressive pair - and I mean impressive both in its boldness as...

One of my favorite female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance (and admittedly, they aren't so many to begin with), Carmen Beckmann was a rather flexible maestra, able to create in many different styles. using a variety of materials. Her jewelry can be massive and jaw-dropping but quite as easily delicate and more sophisticated. The bracelet I am presenting here I call rare not so much for its design (which I have not seen before) but primarily for the scarcely seen snowflake obsidia...

When I first started my love-affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I found myself intrigued by the work of artists whose names were not among the first ones a new collector would focus on. I love a challenge and seeking out “less celebrated” maestros who nevertheless created superbly crafted jewelry in imaginative designs became my “mission”. I have written in the past that “Cecilia and Tono are one of those well-hidden, well-kept "secrets" vintage Taxco holds for those of us who...