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Gorgeous Antique Suffragette Bracelet for Smaller Wrist
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Pre 1910 item# 685925
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If you're petite, no doubt you've found that most antique bracelets are just too big. They were made roomy to wear over gloves in the 19th and very early 20th centuries, so few are shorter than 7 1/2 inches. This one's just 6 1/2 inches long, counting the clasp -- and it's fabulous!
Fashioned from heavy gilt metal, the bracelet is comprised of four domed plaques intricately detailed with Art Nouveau scrollwork and set with 16 glorious faux gems. Jade-like art glass dominates, featuring rich green hues mottled with white. That these rectangular cabochons vary slightly in color and shape adds to the "real" look and also attests to hand-craftsmanship. Accent stones are deep purple amethyst pastes and glass pearls, still very luminous. All appear original and are in remarkably fine condition. Most likely the necklace was made in Bohemia, which for centuries produced the finest simulated gems, as well as ornate and rather fanciful settings. The area became Czechoslovakia after World War I, but was previously part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The unusual combination of green, purple and white typically signifies that a jewel was first owned by a member of the Suffragette movement. For them, green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. That right was finally won for all American women in 1920 and for all in Great Britain in 1928. Thus, although most of the jewelry is Victorian, Edwardian or transitional, some was crafted in the Art Deco era. Forgotten for many years, these jewels have been rapidly gaining value since the star-studded TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much more scarce.
This bracelet dates most likely to the 1890s and reached us from an East Coast estate. The reverse shows age-appropriate surface wear around the edges, which reveals a silvery substance under the gilding: pot metal, to judge by the weight. The gilt has aged to bronze color on the front, where it takes high magnification to notice any wear.
The three links joining the plaques are rosier, probably gilt copper, and have an elaborately incised design. Because the clasp isn't patterned and appears to be gilt brass, it's almost surely a replacement. It's been with the bracelet for a very long time, though, based on their matching depth of patina. Of course there may have been a fifth plaque originally, removed at some point by a lady with a dainty wrist. Each plaque measures about 1 1/2 inches long and a little more than an inch wide. Each connecting link adds about 3/8 of an inch, as does the clasp.
Because the clasp can easily be taken off, you could tie ribbons onto each end and wear this also as a choker necklace or a hair ornament.
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Rare Antique Art Nouveau Lady Portrait Barrette c 1900
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Pre 1910 item# 685882
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Authentic Victorian Art Nouveau "lady portrait" jewels have become so scarce that even well-made replicas are soaring in value, so we're delighted to present this treasure from the late 19th or very early 20th century. It's a highly unusual example of the form, being crafted as a hair jewel. Through many years of collecting Art Nouveau, I've never before run across a barrette like this.
Obviously you could transform it into a pendant necklace and/or a brooch by having it placed in a bezel with the appropriate hardware. By most reckonings, that would substantially increase the value; however, I find it even more interesting in its unexpected present form.
This is a truly spectacular jewel -- highly dimensional, large (about 1.5 inches round) and exquisitely detailed. The portrait head is one of the loveliest I've seen, both for the woman's beauty and for her harmony with the floral and foliate shapes surrounding her. A flower wafting from behind settles like a ruffled cap over her curls.
The influence of French "art medals" is strong and quite possibly an original by one of the masters is recreated here. Provenance is a Louisiana estate and condition, as you see, is remarkably fine. Quite a bit of patina remains on the aged brass reverse, but the front was brightly polished sometime recently. The hairpin-type barrette catch still works perfectly after more than a century.
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Richly Jeweled Antique Edwardian Suffragette Earrings
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Pre 1920 item# 685789
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$115
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I've never seen this many jewels -- 32 total -- packed onto so little metalwork, which gives these antique earrings a really opulent look. There was certainly no conflict between being a Suffragette and being highly feminine. There are five faceted pastes in each earring, plus 10 faux pearls and a very dimensional heart-shaped leaf of faux opal with loads of fire, that seems to be carved, rather than molded.
I date the pair to the Edwardian era, give or take a few years. A hint of Victorian Art Nouveau remains evident in their curvy starburst or pinwheel form, but they also have the delicacy that we associate with Edwardian and transitional styles. The glass is Bohemian / Czech, based on its quality, and all stones appear original. Settings are gilt brass with screw-backs and it takes magnification to notice surface wear. There's still a lot of shine. Size is about 3/4" in one dimension and 7/8" in the other, but they seem larger because there's so much going on. Although from an estate in Ohio, these seem decidedly European to me -- probably Austro-Hungarian in the last days of Empire, made for export to the Suffragette market in the UK or US.
As you know if you collect Suffragette jewelry, the unusual combination of colors is what we look for. Green stood for hope, purple for dignity and white for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. All this seems cryptic now, but was clearly understood by everyone in an era when messages were also communicated by which flowers you sent, how you held your fan and which corner of a calling card you folded down, if any.
To the Suffragettes' efforts through many decades in the U.K. and U.S., we modern women owe our right to vote. That right was finally extended to all American women in 1920 and to all in Great Britain in 1928. Thus, although most of the jewelry is Victorian, Edwardian or transitional, some was crafted in the Art Deco era.
Forgotten for many years, these jewels have been rapidly gaining value since the star-studded TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much harder to find.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Art Nouveau Lady Portrait Brooch c 1890 Exotic
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Pre 1910 item# 661727
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$179
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As you know if you collect Art Nouveau, authentic "lady portrait" jewels have become extremely hard to find. Even later reproductions are soaring in value, so you simply can't go wrong with a true Victorian treasure like this for less than $200.
Making it even more exceptional, it features TWO portrait heads, brilliant Bohemian ruby and emerald pastes and wonderful Arabesque tracery. Adding further to the exotic look that pays tribute to the Victorian love of travel, these Art Nouveau beauties wear elaborate headscarves that suggest North Africa. The gilt finish, well-preserved and beautifully patinated by time, has the rosy cast favored in the 1890s.
The brooch -- which could easily double as a necklace by pinning it to a ribbon choker -- measures about 1 3/8 inches round, is highly dimensional and has a nice heft to it that indicates quality. Its original hardware is present: a clasp of the open "C" type and a hinge of the sort introduced in the 1850s. At some point the pinstem, which would have extended well beyond the brooch, was snipped and filed to a new point -- not a bad idea, since the old elongated pins became dangerous when women gave up wearing layers of underclothing. The hinge may have been reattached at one time, since there's quite a lot of flux around it; however, it's gilded over, so could have been there forever.
Provenance of the brooch is a Kentucky estate, but I expect it originated in the British Isles -- possibly Scotland, based on the fascinating stylized heart formed by the tails of the scarves. You could look a long time for an Art Nouveau portrait brooch as unusual as this one.
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Antique Victorian Paste Brooch c 1860 Large and Fine
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Pre 1900 item# 657260
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This is a remarkable brooch from the mid-19th century, in superb original condition. Even the extra-long pinstem hasn't been snipped at all, which is quite a rarity. Also of extreme interest are the superb faceted pastes, all very clear and white, radiating great brilliance. A cluster of seven stones nestles within each of the four beautifully dimensional flowers joined by their graceful swirl of cylindical stems.
We can date the brooch to the Victorian Grand Period by its large size -- about 2.25 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall -- and the hinge, which is of a type introduced around 1850. However, the architecturally layered construction is more typical of Georgian and Early Victorian times. This suggests American origin, away from major metropolitan centers, or simply that it was made by an older jeweler who favored traditional techniques. Certainly it was hand-made, as we can tell by variations in the flowers (slightly different shapes and engraving patterns). A particularly sweet touch is engraving on the flowers' backs, as well as inside the petals. The slightly rosy golden metal appears to be rolled gold, showing little wear even under high magnification. "Rolled" gold refers to sheets of gold attached so thickly to both sides of the underlying metal that it basically never wears out. Clasp is the old open "C", of course, and provenance is a Pennsylvania estate.
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Antique Czech Enamel & Pink Moonstone Dangle Earrings
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Pre 1920 item# 652598
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$140
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Last year we found earrings very similar to this pair, but in blue, and they sold in a twinkling. "My dream earrings!" the customer called them. Perhaps these pink beauties will fulfill a dream for you.
Wonderfully feminine and romantic, these can't reasonably be later than 1920, since so much Edwardian and Art Nouveau influence is present in the intricate filigree metalwork (lovely even on the backs). Notice the scrolling shapes and textured details, as well as the curvy flower petal motif enameled in luscious rose to match the heavenly half-orbs of faux-moonstone, which anticipate Art Deco geometry.
Enameled leaves of this type are characteristically Czech, as is the very fine quality of the stones. Despite the absence of marks, we can be virtually certain of their origin -- technically Bohemia, if they were made before Czech independence in 1918, as I believe they were. Most likely they're Edwardian, based on the screw fasteners. Ear-piercing was considered a bit barbaric at that time, particularly by early feminists.
Overall condition is lovely, with a beautiful patina on the gilt brass and only minor flaws evident under high magnification (slight irregularities on the collet settings and a hard-to-notice chip at the edge of one stone, which must have fallen out at some time). The drops will fall about 2 inches below your ears and the earrings measure almost an inch at their widest. Provenance is a Minnesota estate.
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Rare 3-inch Victorian Jeweled Crescent Moon Brooch
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Pre 1900 item# 623822
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There's nothing more romantic than moonlight -- especially when you can wear it! This stunning antique crescent moon brooch is quintessential Victoriana, carried to a dazzling extreme. As you know if you collect 19th century jewelry, the crescent form is often found, but typically in lengths of one or two inches. Here's your chance to own the GIANT of the species.
Still dazzling with fire from 21 prong-set diamond pastes graduated in size, this amazing jewel has the tube hinge, open C clasp and elongated pinstem right for the period, which I judge to be circa 1870 - 1880 (early in the Victorian Aesthetic Period). The reverse shows age-appropriate surface wear and the gilt brass setting could stand cleaning, but condition is otherwise remarkable. Provenance is a New Mexico estate and probable origin is American.
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Antique Victorian French Jet Belt Buckle Set c 1870
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Pre 1900 item# 600865
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Forty-eight beautifully faceted French Jet stones sparkle on this antique buckle set. French jet, as you know, is a form of black glass created to imitate English Whitby jet, when supplies of the latter were depleted by the 19th century passion for mourning jewelry. The buckle measures 2 1/4 inches tall and 3 inches wide (when closed) and was probably made in the 1860s or 1870s.
Despite great age, the buckle is sturdy and in nicely wearable condition. At the back, which was lacquered black at some point, there's evidence of old repairs and a few splashes of black paint are on the brass fittings. These flaws won't show at all in use, but naturally our price reflects them. A buckle this old and striking would be a great deal higher, if everything were perfect. On sale now, it's a steal.
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Victorian Gothic Cloak Clasp Sash Buckle c 1860 Rare
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Pre 1900 item# 594126
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This rare and wonderful circa 1860 antique clasp or buckle is a museum-worthy jewel that you'll want to display in a vitrine or shadow box frame when you aren't using it.
By far the most romantic fashion accessory I've ever seen, it would be divine at the waist of a wedding or evening gown -- although it's easy to imagine it securing the cloak of a pre-Raphaelite poet like Christina Rosetti, as she trekked through foggy London or across windswept moors.
Crafted in two parts linked by chain when closed, this astounding item features profiles of a medieval knight and his lady, executed in high relief and remarkable detail. Each panel, about two inches round, is further embellished by an elaborate decorative motif that shows Etruscan influence in the beading of the metal. I'm not certain about the material, but it seems the figures are of gilded copper, while the frame is of gilt brass.
Obviously it dates from the mid-19th century, when the "Gothick" movement begun by Pugin expanded from architecture into other areas. For those in the avant-garde, the style provided appealing relief from neo-classicism and evoked a medieval sense of heroic endeavour and the heartiness of "Merrie England" in the Middle Ages.
Condition is quite good, given the great age of such a functional piece. There's only minor loss of finish on the front - which, as you see, is dazzling - but evidence of very old repairs became apparent after cleaning the heavily patinated reverse (no surprise since the piece has a delicate openwork understructure). There's also a tiny chink out of one edge, where a thread hole pulled through; it wouldn't be noticed when worn and another could be easily drilled in the vicinity. The price would of course be a great deal higher, if everything were perfect.
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Antique Edwardian Earrings and Necklace Pendant Set
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Pre 1910 item# 593118
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$295
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This lovely antique necklace and earrings set consists of a pendant in girandole form (meaning it has three drops, Queen Victoria's favorite style) and dangle earrings, each piece set with sparkling topaz and diamond pastes, probably Bohemian. Arts and Crafts influence is obvious in the openwork design, exerting a restraining influence on the Art Nouveau curves.
Of impressive size and very graceful in motion, the pendant is almost two inches long and about 1 1/2 inches at its widest, while the matching earrings are an inch long and half an inch wide. That the earrings have screw backs leads to the Edwardian dating; these existed in Victorian times, but didn't really catch on until the early 20th century. The set also has the airy, ultra-refined quality we associate with Edwardiana.
It's rare to find a demi-parure still together after this long, much less to find one that was seldom or never worn. I'm frankly amazed by the near-mint condition of these jewels. Apart from loss of the original bail and chain -- common with antique pendants, as you know -- I see nothing of note. (The present jump ring is a later addition.) The metal is a puzzle. In most lights, it appears silver, but at times seems to be very pale gold. That could be the nature of the alloy, slight tarnish or a light color wash. There's simply too little surface wear to tell, and it strikes me as criminal to risk damaging such pristine, subtly shimmering surfaces with polishes or test acids.
Truly an astounding set of antique jewelry, which would be the making of any outfit in the topaz/citrine color range, this reached us from a Texas estate. I expect it was crafted in Europe between 1905 and 1910.
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