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Rare Antique Jugendstil Giardinetto Brooch or Pendant
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Continental:
Pre 1900 item# 592877
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The giardinetto (little garden) style -- often called giardinetti, the plural -- originated in Italy during the Rococo years of the 18th century and has been revived in other eras when an exceptionally feminine look was prized. Here the artist made the look totally fresh, adapted in the Jugendstil style of late 19th century Eastern Europe.
This elaborate multi-part antique pendant brooch is one of the most delightful Victorian jewels I've seen and, fittingly, it's been treasured. Notice the rose gold gilding, still shining as brightly as new. There's delicate chasing around the bar pin, which has an elongated pinstem, tube hinge and safety-pin clasp reliably dating the piece to the 1880s. Most wonderfully of all, an oval bale beneath the pin suspends a fully dimensional, round basket holding a bouquet of gorgeously enameled flowers and leaves with highly polished accent stones of rose, emerald and coral art glass. Quite sizeable, it measures about 2 1/4 inches tall and 1 1/4 inches at its widest -- large enough to look sensational on a coat or jacket -- and obviously the basket drop can also be worn to great effect on a necklace chain or ribbon.
Without markings, which in this age appeared only on precious metals, one can't be absolutely certain, but all the indications of Austro-Hungarian origin are present -- and, if you love jewelry from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, you know how difficult it is to find now. There was never much, since the Dual Monarchy lasted only from 1867 to 1918 - besides which jewels from this area and period are so special that people seldom let them go. They share the decorative opulence we prize in the shimmering paintings of Klimt, a goldsmith's son who studied at Vienna's celebrated School of Applied Arts. Its students learned to design outstanding arts and crafts products that could be mass-produced for a growing middle class who emulated the aristocracy and had refined tastes. I expect the creator of this elaborate multi-part pendant brooch was trained there.
It isn't surprising when "ballroom" jewels survive in splendid condition, but this charmer was more likely worn by a young lady enjoying the casual pleasures of the Heurigen (wine gardens of the Vienna woods) or riding the Riesenrad, prototype of ferris wheels. Nonetheless, it's as imaginatively and carefully crafted as the adornments of nobility. The underlying metal appears to be a sturdy luxury-weight brass. To see minute losses of gilding and enamel requires extremely high magnification. To the naked eye (at least mine), this jewel is perfect. Its provenance is a North Carolina estate and you'd have to look a long time to find anything comparable.
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Superb Art Nouveau Gilt & Pink Art Glass Buckle Set
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Continental:
Pre 1920 item# 588008
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$115
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The opulence of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire is captured in this rare buckle dating from Czechoslovakia's earliest years of independence, just after World War I. Because it's marked CZECHOSLOV on the fastener, it can't be older than 1918, but it clearly can't be younger than 1920.
This is the lavish sort of jewel we'd expect to see on one of the beauties Klimt painted in Victorian and Edwardian times: ornately patterned with scrollwork, rope twists and millegrain details, richly gilded (22 karat at least) and wonderfully colorful, thanks to two radiant faux-moonstones of rosy pink art glass.
To judge the quality of this piece, note the gilding on its reverses, untouched by time's patina. A good jeweler could restore the same brilliance to the front surfaces, although they're lovely as they are, and brighten the tiny areas on the collets where gold has worn away. (Alternatively, for a quick fix, you could dab those little spots with gilding paste and seal them with clear nail lacquer.) These are extremely minor flaws, but our price naturally reflects them.
Fastened, the buckle measures 3 inches by 1 1/4, and its brackets will hold a belt or sash up to 3/4 of an inch wide, or wider if gathered.
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Antique Arts and Crafts Buckle of Victorian Gothic Form
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English:
Pre 1900 item# 587921
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This is exactly the sort of belt or sash buckle you'd expect to see in a painting by Burne-Jones, Rossetti or other artists of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood. Obviously it was hand-crafted in the Victorian Gothic Revival period to mimic a medieval jewel -- complete with undulations of the metalwork, witchy faux-prongs that look like talons and four collet-set stones of rich royal purple amethyst glass.
Probable dating would be the 1860s or 1870s and most likely it originated in England, although it reached us from an East Coast estate.
Measuring more than 2 inches round, the buckle is in superb condition for its age. The gilt brass finish has patinated to a soft powdery effect on the front, where the lacquer on the surface is almost wholly intact. Some loss of lacquer is evident on the reverse, where there are brighter underlying areas. You might want to clean all the lacquer off and go for high-shine everywhere, but I'll leave that decision to you.
Obviously this buckle would be a wonderful accent for historic SCA costume, as well as a fabulously original fashion accessory for both formal and informal attire. To wear it, you'd simply stitch the bracket to a soft belt or sash (up to 1 1/2 inches wide) and, at the other end, add an eye of metal or thread for the hook to slide into.
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Medievalist Arts & Crafts Buckle with Emerald Glass
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English:
Pre 1900 item# 587920
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$125
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Here's another Gothic Revival buckle worthy of adorning the Victorian beauties in pre-Raphaelite paintings -- and this one's even larger and more elaborate than our other example, also hand-made in the 1860s or 1870s, probably in England.
Characteristic of the style are witchy faux-prongs like talons and metalwork with a rustic look. Here the heavy gilt brass not only undulates as if fashioned a thousand years ago, but also has a rippling surface texture. Additional adornments are two large collet-set stones of emerald green crystal, applied scrollwork decorations and touches of forest green and lavender enamel. The lacquered front has darkened to a rich patina of age, while the unlacquered reverse shines so brightly golden that it can't have been worn much. If you'd like for both sides to sparkle, a good jeweler could no doubt remove the lacquer at the front (carefully preserving the painted colors). I like it as it is, but it's always nice to have a choice.
A whopping 3 inches tall, the buckle is 2 inches wide. To wear it, stitch one end of a sash or soft belt to the bracket and, at the other end, add two eyes of metal or thread for the sturdy hooks to slip through. (You could make that process even simpler, by just tying both ends of a scarf to the central bar in back.)
Obviously, this one-of-a-kind treasure would be a fabulous present for a fashionable woman -- and you could easily pay a lot more for a less impressive gift.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare & Fine Tudor (1500s) Pilgrim Badge or Pendant
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Pre 1700 item# 585975
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$445
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Making pilgrimages was a popular 15th & 16th century pastime, as we know from Chaucer, and those who’d "been there/done that" bought badges to prove it. When pilgrims returned, they proudly wore these fastened to their hats or capes. Examples can be seen in many stained glass windows, drawings and paintings from the era. Besides serving as "proof" of a pilgrimage, they were important to the wearer for personal reasons, evoking the reason for the journey (such as penance, an act of special gratitude or an appeal for help to a particular saint).
Since pieces like this were the travel t-shirts of their era, they - like most souvenirs - weren't usually crafted for great longevity. An exception to that rule is our exceptionally well-made pilgrim pendant from England. Its detail is uncommonly crisp. Size is approximately 1 1/4" x 7/8" and metal is presumably pewter or lead, since those were the material typically used. It was acquired from our trusted antiquities specialist in East Anglia and may have originated either in the British Isles or on the Continent. We haven't yet been able to identify the particular destination with which this design was associated so, if you happen to know, please do tell me.
To wear it today, just add a ribbon, leather thong or chain. It would also look great hanging in a window, nicho or on your favorite santo figure.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. There's no charge for insured US shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Medieval St. Anthony Portrait Reliquary 1600s
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Continental:
Pre 1700 item# 585954
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$635
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The subject of this fine silver-framed oval miniature portrait reliquary is believed to be Saint Anthony. Dating, we can be sure, is Late Medieval - but whether the bone fragments enclosed under the crystal are relics of the saint is, of course, a matter of faith. Acquired in England from our favorite dealer in fine antiquities, the piece measures about 2" x 1 1/2" - exclusive of jump rings, which add another 1/2" or so and enable it to be worn as a pendant. Naturally, given its age, the frame is unmarked, but the metal appears to be high-grade silver. We buffed it very lightly with a jeweler's cloth, and more of the tarnish could certainly be removed, if you prefer a brighter look. Backing appears to be varnished wood.
Commonly referred to today as the "finder of lost articles" and a patron saint of the poor and oppressed, Saint Anthony is associated with the Italian city of Padua but was born in Lisbon, Portugal, where he was ordained circa 1220. In the following year he transferred from the Augustinian to the Franciscan order. St. Francis gave him the mission to preach throughout Italy, and his eloquence brought about many conversions and reconciled deadly enemies. He also worked to abolish debtors' prisons and greatly helped the poor. He is often pictured with a book and/or a lily, and these seem to be in the hands of this portrait. It's a beautifully detailed little picture, in remarkable condition for its age.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos.
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1890s Art Nouveau Lady Portrait Buckle, Clasp or Choker
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Pre 1900 item# 575821
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$160
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This antique Victorian Art Nouveau buckle from a Philadelphia estate is one of the most remarkable I've ever seen -- not only gorgeous, but in pristine condition after more than 100 years. It can be precisely dated to the 1890s from its patent mark: May 22, 94 (no doubt referring to the latch mechanism).
Apart from traces of age patina that remain in crevices after a prior owner polished it, this incredible jewel is like new. Of gilt copper, with its gilding still bright even on the reverse, it's worked in repousse for wonderful dimensionality. Size is quite large: about 3 inches wide by 2 5/16 inches tall.
As you know if you collect Art Nouveau, authentic "lady portrait" pieces have become extremely hard to find and, accordingly, have begun soaring in value. You simply can't go wrong with an investment jewel like this for less than $200, and wouldn't it be stunning at the waist of a party outfit?
You can stitch it very easily to any sash or scarf -- or even wear it as a choker necklace, attached to a length of ribbon or lace. It could be worn beautifully as a cape clasp, too.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Antique Edwardian 1910 Halley's Comet Brooch
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American:
Pre 1920 item# 513530
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The Arts & Crafts movement and ladies’ magazines inspired busy hands in Late Victorian and Edwardian homes, where moms and daughters crafted trendy jewels and fashion accessories. I'll bet this enchanting antique brooch, which obviously commemorates the dazzling show put on by Halley's Comet, was just such a project -- made by a talented Edwardian lady for herself or as a very special gift. These old pastes, so much brighter than our modern rhinestones, were perfect for a comet jewel and so was the wonderfully iridescent mother-of-pearl from which a stylized comet was cut and then given incised details. Assembly was quite simple: The glittering row of stones is simply wired through two holes, one leading to the open "C" clasp and the other to the hinge. Thus, the stones have a bit of movement, which lets them flash even more fire. The only flaws I find are some waviness of the brass pinstem, inevitable after so long, and the fact that the point was shortened at some time (a very common adaptation, since the extra-long ones used until Art Deco days can easily draw blood).
From a New York estate, this unusual and charming jewel measures about 1 7/8 inches long and 5/8 of an inch wide. Comet jewelry always makes a great conversation piece.
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Exciting Art Nouveau Paste and Pot Metal Flower Brooch
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American:
Pre 1910 item# 505786
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$149
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If you're looking a brooch to stop everyone dead in their tracks, you've found it. This glittering Art Nouveau monster is absolutely astounding: 3 1/2 inches tall and more than 2 inches wide. It's lavished with vivid, brightly faceted pastes in shades of green, citrine and cognac, as well as the red-orange dominant on the petals of what looks like a tiger lily or parrot tulip. The shapes are so aswirl that the exotic flower seems to be dancing.
It's quite a heavy jewel, given its size and the pot metal setting, so it benefits greatly from the presence of an early safety clasp. That may have been added later, probably when the elongated pinstem was snipped from even greater length (not a bad idea, since the lengths used in the 19th century were downright dangerous). If the safety is original, dating can't be before this sort was invented in 1902. I think the brooch is somewhat older, though, based on the type of hinge and pinstem -- and, for the same reason, can rule out its being a later Victorian Revival piece.
Obviously perfect for spring, the brooch is from a Minnesota estate and in lovely condition, relative to age. There are a few areas of discoloration on the back and the pin is a bit wavy, but all the many stones are intact and it takes high magnification to notice even light surface wear to the front.
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Stunning Victorian Egyptian Revival Art Glass Brooch
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Continental:
Pre 1900 item# 491077
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$175
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Most of us know the discovery of King Tut's tomb in the 1920s led to a craze for Egyptian-styled jewelry. Fewer are aware there were earlier Egyptian crazes (circa 1800 and again in the 1860s, when the Suez Canal opened). Further, when Tut's treasures toured the world once more in the 1970s, it was "deja vu all over again." Because of this, you always have to look *very* carefully at jewels with an Egyptian motif, to determine when they were made.
This example, I've decided, is from the Victorian era. It was sold to us as Deco, but the details of fabrication are simply *not* 20th century. It's too rustic, with too much evidence of hand-craftsmanship a la Arts & Crafts. Notice the slight asymmetry between the top and the base, as well as the Etruscan-style granulated surface and, of course, those old paste stones that are nothing like 20th century rhinestones. The tall columns of blue glass seem modern now, but Bohemia was quite capable of making them earlier and I believe this jewel is from there. It also shows more surface wear than is age-appropriate for the 1920s -- certainly not enough to detract from its beauty, but enough to signify great age.
Crafted on a very grand scale, this marvel measures about 3 1/4" by 1 1/8" and reached us from a Florida estate. It's an absolute dazzler.
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