Antique Italian Mosaic Parure Bracelet Pin Earrings
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Pre 1920 item# 1037883
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$195 SALE. Was $245. Free U.S. Shipping & Gift-Wrap, if Desired
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Acquired by some long-ago bride on a Roman honeymoon or an intrepid traveler making the Grand Tour, these flowers remain as lovely as when the lady picked them. As you know if you love mosaic jewelry, early 19th century pieces are worked in almost impossibly tiny tesserae. Those were micro-mosaics. Due to the rising cost of labor, they gradually evolved toward the much larger mosaic designs made in the latter half of the 20th century. These are in between, still showing very fine workmanship. Since the earrings are screw-backs, introduced in 1894, they can't possibly be earlier than that. I expect they were made in the Edwardian era or the transitional period before Art Deco design became dominant. Of course it's rare to find a complete parure and we were lucky enough to acquire the matching brooch from a different estate.
The stunning bracelet is 7 1/2 inches long, the screw-back earrings are about 7/8 of an inch round and the brooch is 1 3/8 inches wide. Their settings of gilt brass -- which even have minute rope-twisted ridges that separate the teensy tiled areas -- are richly patinated by time, but would of course polish up if you prefer a brighter look.
Although I can't guarantee that every single tile is present (without going blind looking), none appear to be gone and the overall condition is gorgeous. This is a set you can wear with almost anything, since the accent colors are so numerous. Primary hues tend to dominate this type of jewelry, so the subtle sage green background here is unusual -- and particularly well attuned to today's tastes.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Lovely Czech Art Nouveau Faux Moonstone Brooch c1919
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Pre 1920 item# 723605
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$125
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The "Czecho" signature on this ultra-feminine antique brooch lets us date it quite precisely to the first years of the Czech Republic (established in 1918). The region was previously known as Bohemia, part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until World War I ended, and Bohemian glass has been prized from medieval times. These gorgeous old pink satin glass moonstones certainly live up to the area's reputation.
Although its dating is technically transitional, falling between the death of King Edward and the period dominated by Art Deco style, the brooch is wholly Victorian in spirit, so must have been crafted immediately after the war. There's not even a hint of Deco styling, so it would have been out of style by the early 1920s.
The lavish gilt setting, as you'll notice, has scrolling openwork at both ends, which would allow the brooch to be worn also as a pendant or even as a choker necklace, if threaded over a ribbon at each end. Its size is impressive -- 2.5 by 2 inches -- and it's in beautifully wearable condition. As you'd expect, there's age-appropriate surface wear to the gilding, especially on the reverse. The fastener is of the old open C type, right for the period. The pinstem would originally have extended beyond the edge of the brooch but, as is common, it was snipped and filed to a new point at some time in the interest of safety. One of the smaller cabochons has a teensy chip, hard to notice without extreme magnification. Provenance of this beauty is a Wisconsin estate.
Interestingly, we happen to have a fabulous pair of pink faux-moonstone earrings that are nearly a perfect match for this. If you're interested in both pieces, please e-mail and we'll work out special pricing.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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1870s Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival Bracelet
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Pre 1900 item# 721238
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$235
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As museums opened across Europe in the 19th century, people flocked to marvel at the treasures of the past -- and then they wanted the look. This led to a series of historical revivals, including Classical, Gothic, Baroque and Rococo, as well as the Renaissance style we see here. The Austrians (who became Austro-Hungarians after the early 1860s) did particularly lovely work in the Renaissance vein, aided by long experience in enamel painting, which was central to the style.
This splendid bracelet features a charming miniature hand-painted on a cabochon of porcelain. In the richly colored scene, an aristocratic couple are shown outdoors on an autumn day, the young lady playing a lute while her dashing beau sings along. Their attire clearly evokes the early Renaissance. Also true to that era are the wristband of finely formed and textured filigree and the painting's lovely frame, which is constructed architecturally in three layers, with intricate surface patterning and a fine dogtooth collet.
The band is an oval, as is characteristic of much early jewelry and really a better fit on the arm than round. It's on the petite side, suited to a smaller than average wrist (up to about 6 inches).
From a West Coast estate, the bracelet is in marvelous condition. The plaque shows no wear; the hinge and clasp work perfectly; and the rest of the metalwork reveals a few tiny dings only under high magnification. Even the gilding is virtually intact, so the bracelet can't have been worn much. Both its dating (1875-1880) and origin are established by the fact that a necklace featuring precisely the same painted motif is a book piece. (See "Popular Jewelry 1840-1940" by Roseann Ettinger.)
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Gorgeous Antique Suffragette Bracelet for Smaller Wrist
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Pre 1910 item# 685925
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$165
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If you're petite, no doubt you've found that most antique bracelets are just too big. They were made roomy to wear over gloves in the 19th and very early 20th centuries, so few are shorter than 7 1/2 inches. This one's just 6 1/2 inches long, counting the clasp -- and it's fabulous!
Fashioned from heavy gilt metal, the bracelet is comprised of four domed plaques intricately detailed with Art Nouveau scrollwork and set with 16 glorious faux gems. Jade-like art glass dominates, featuring rich green hues mottled with white. That these rectangular cabochons vary slightly in color and shape adds to the "real" look and also attests to hand-craftsmanship. Accent stones are deep purple amethyst pastes and glass pearls, still very luminous. All appear original and are in remarkably fine condition. Most likely the necklace was made in Bohemia, which for centuries produced the finest simulated gems, as well as ornate and rather fanciful settings. The area became Czechoslovakia after World War I, but was previously part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The unusual combination of green, purple and white typically signifies that a jewel was first owned by a member of the Suffragette movement. For them, green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. That right was finally won for all American women in 1920 and for all in Great Britain in 1928. Thus, although most of the jewelry is Victorian, Edwardian or transitional, some was crafted in the Art Deco era. Forgotten for many years, these jewels have been rapidly gaining value since the star-studded TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much more scarce.
This bracelet dates most likely to the 1890s and reached us from an East Coast estate. The reverse shows age-appropriate surface wear around the edges, which reveals a silvery substance under the gilding: pot metal, to judge by the weight. The gilt has aged to bronze color on the front, where it takes high magnification to notice any wear.
The three links joining the plaques are rosier, probably gilt copper, and have an elaborately incised design. Because the clasp isn't patterned and appears to be gilt brass, it's almost surely a replacement. It's been with the bracelet for a very long time, though, based on their matching depth of patina. Of course there may have been a fifth plaque originally, removed at some point by a lady with a dainty wrist. Each plaque measures about 1 1/2 inches long and a little more than an inch wide. Each connecting link adds about 3/8 of an inch, as does the clasp.
Because the clasp can easily be taken off, you could tie ribbons onto each end and wear this also as a choker necklace or a hair ornament.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery). Gift-wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Czech Enamel & Pink Moonstone Dangle Earrings
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Pre 1920 item# 652598
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$140 Free U.S. Priority Shipping (& Gift-Wrap if Desired)
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Last year we found earrings very similar to this pair, but in blue, and they sold in a twinkling. "My dream earrings!" the customer called them. Perhaps these pink beauties will fulfill a dream for you.
Wonderfully feminine and romantic, these can't reasonably be later than 1920, since so much Edwardian and Art Nouveau influence is present in the intricate filigree metalwork (lovely even on the backs). Notice the scrolling shapes and textured details, as well as the curvy flower petal motif enameled in luscious rose to match the heavenly half-orbs of faux-moonstone, which anticipate Art Deco geometry.
Enameled leaves of this type are characteristically Czech, as is the very fine quality of the stones. Despite the absence of marks, we can be virtually certain of their origin -- technically Bohemia, if they were made before Czech independence in 1918, as I believe they were. Most likely they're Edwardian, based on the screw fasteners. Ear-piercing was considered a bit barbaric at that time, particularly by early feminists.
Overall condition is lovely, with a beautiful patina on the gilt brass and only minor flaws evident under high magnification (slight irregularities on the collet settings and a hard-to-notice chip at the edge of one stone, which must have fallen out at some time). The drops will fall about 2 inches below your ears and the earrings measure almost an inch at their widest. Provenance is a Minnesota estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is also free if desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Antique Jugendstil Giardinetto Brooch or Pendant
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Pre 1900 item# 592877
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$350 SALE (Reduced from $425) Free U.S. Priority Shipping (& Gift Wrap if Desired) Layaway Terms Available
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The giardinetto (little garden) style -- often called giardinetti, the plural -- originated in Italy during the Rococo years of the 18th century and has been revived in other eras when an exceptionally feminine look was prized. Here the artist made the look totally fresh, adapted in the Jugendstil style of late 19th century Eastern Europe.
This elaborate multi-part antique pendant brooch is one of the most delightful Victorian jewels I've seen and, fittingly, it's been treasured. Notice the rose gold gilding, still shining as brightly as new. There's delicate chasing around the bar pin, which has an elongated pinstem, tube hinge and safety-pin clasp reliably dating the piece to the 1880s. Most wonderfully of all, an oval bale beneath the pin suspends a fully dimensional, round basket holding a bouquet of gorgeously enameled flowers and leaves with highly polished accent stones of rose, emerald and coral art glass. Quite sizeable, it measures about 2 1/4 inches tall and 1 1/4 inches at its widest -- large enough to look sensational on a coat or jacket -- and obviously the basket drop can also be worn to great effect on a necklace chain or ribbon.
Without markings, which in this age appeared only on precious metals, one can't be absolutely certain, but all the indications of Austro-Hungarian origin are present -- and, if you love jewelry from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, you know how difficult it is to find now. There was never much, since the Dual Monarchy lasted only from 1867 to 1918 - besides which jewels from this area and period are so special that people seldom let them go. They share the decorative opulence we prize in the shimmering paintings of Klimt, a goldsmith's son who studied at Vienna's celebrated School of Applied Arts. Its students learned to design outstanding arts and crafts products that could be mass-produced for a growing middle class who emulated the aristocracy and had refined tastes. I expect the creator of this elaborate multi-part pendant brooch was trained there.
It isn't surprising when "ballroom" jewels survive in splendid condition, but this charmer was more likely worn by a young lady enjoying the casual pleasures of the Heurigen (wine gardens of the Vienna woods) or riding the Riesenrad, prototype of ferris wheels. Nonetheless, it's as imaginatively and carefully crafted as the adornments of nobility. The underlying metal appears to be a sturdy luxury-weight brass. To see minute losses of gilding and enamel requires extremely high magnification. To the naked eye (at least mine), this jewel is perfect. Its provenance is a North Carolina estate and you'd have to look a long time to find anything comparable.
There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Superb Art Nouveau Gilt & Pink Art Glass Buckle Set
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Pre 1920 item# 588008
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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The opulence of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire is captured in this rare buckle dating from Czechoslovakia's earliest years of independence, just after World War I. Because it's marked CZECHOSLOV on the fastener, it can't be older than 1918, but it clearly can't be younger than 1920.
This is the lavish sort of jewel we'd expect to see on one of the beauties Klimt painted in Victorian and Edwardian times: ornately patterned with scrollwork, rope twists and millegrain details, richly gilded (22 karat at least) and wonderfully colorful, thanks to two radiant faux-moonstones of rosy pink art glass.
To judge the quality of this piece, note the gilding on its reverses, untouched by time's patina. A good jeweler could restore the same brilliance to the front surfaces, although they're lovely as they are, and brighten the tiny areas on the collets where gold has worn away. (Alternatively, for a quick fix, you could dab those little spots with gilding paste and seal them with clear nail lacquer.) These are extremely minor flaws, but our price naturally reflects them.
Fastened, the buckle measures 3 inches by 1 1/4, and its brackets will hold a belt or sash up to 3/4 of an inch wide, or wider if gathered.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Medieval St. Anthony Portrait Reliquary 1600s
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Pre 1700 item# 585954
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$635 Free Delivery to Any Country Where We Ship (And Gift-Wrap if Desired)
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The subject of this fine silver-framed oval miniature portrait reliquary is believed to be Saint Anthony. Dating, we can be sure, is Late Medieval - but whether the bone fragments enclosed under the crystal are relics of the saint is, of course, a matter of faith. Acquired in England from our favorite dealer in fine antiquities, the piece measures about 2" x 1 1/2" - exclusive of jump rings, which add another 1/2" or so and enable it to be worn as a pendant. Naturally, given its age, the frame is unmarked, but the metal appears to be high-grade silver. We buffed it very lightly with a jeweler's cloth, and more of the tarnish could certainly be removed, if you prefer a brighter look. Backing appears to be varnished wood.
Commonly referred to today as the "finder of lost articles" and a patron saint of the poor and oppressed, Saint Anthony is associated with the Italian city of Padua but was born in Lisbon, Portugal, where he was ordained circa 1220. In the following year he transferred from the Augustinian to the Franciscan order. St. Francis gave him the mission to preach throughout Italy, and his eloquence brought about many conversions and reconciled deadly enemies. He also worked to abolish debtors' prisons and greatly helped the poor. He is often pictured with a book and/or a lily, and these seem to be in the hands of this portrait. It's a beautifully detailed little picture, in remarkable condition for its age.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos.
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Stunning Victorian Egyptian Revival Art Glass Brooch
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Pre 1900 item# 491077
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$175 Free U.S. Priority Shipping (& Gift-Wrap if Desired)
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Most of us know the discovery of King Tut's tomb in the 1920s led to a craze for Egyptian-styled jewelry. Fewer are aware there were earlier Egyptian crazes (circa 1800 and again in the 1860s, when the Suez Canal opened). Further, when Tut's treasures toured the world once more in the 1970s, it was "deja vu all over again." Because of this, you always have to look *very* carefully at jewels with an Egyptian motif, to determine when they were made.
This example, I've decided, is from the Victorian era. It was sold to us as Deco, but the details of fabrication are simply *not* 20th century. It's too rustic, with too much evidence of hand-craftsmanship a la Arts & Crafts. Notice the slight asymmetry between the top and the base, as well as the Etruscan-style granulated surface and, of course, those old paste stones that are nothing like 20th century rhinestones. The tall columns of blue glass seem modern now, but Bohemia was quite capable of making them earlier and I believe this jewel is from there. It also shows more surface wear than is age-appropriate for the 1920s -- certainly not enough to detract from its beauty, but enough to signify great age.
Crafted on a very grand scale, this marvel measures about 3 1/4" by 1 1/8" and reached us from a Florida estate. It's an absolute dazzler.
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Berlin Iron Brooch Rare Early 19th c Snowflake
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Pre 1900 item# 479343
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$255 Free USPS Priority Shipping (& Gift-Wrap if Desired) Layaway Terms Available
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Berlin iron jewelry, now rare and highly prized, was first made in support of the Prussian War of Liberation against Napoleon. Those who donated valuables to the cause received these in return and wore them with great pride. Cast of iron from models of silver or brass, then polished and lacquered to a matte black finish, most examples have very precise outlines joined together by wire links for an airy, intricate look. A snowflake shape such as this was perfect for the technique.
After hostilities ended, the style caught on elsewhere in Europe and iron jewels were crafted in Austria and France, as well as Germany, from Late Georgian/Regency times into the Victorian era. Accordingly, it’s impossible to be certain of Prussian origin, unless an item bears the inscription "Gold gab ich fur Eisen 1813" (meaning “I gave gold for iron”) or a foundry mark. Not many do, and the design of this brooch left no room for markings. We can be sure, though, that it’s of this timeframe and of iron; the metal exerts magnetic force (mildly, given its delicacy).
Despite its openwork form and great age, the brooch is in lovely condition, showing only minor losses of black lacquer and no rust I can find even under high magnification. It’s been beautifully cared for, as it deserves. A very special treasure for the serious collector, it measures about one and a half inches round and reached us from a New England estate.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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