Spectacular Antique Gilt Bronze Suffragette Bracelet
Catalogue:
Antiques:
Decorative Art:
Jewelry:
French:
Pre 1920 item# 699147
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$175
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When green, violet and white appear together on historic jewelry, this unusual color combination typically signifies that the piece was first owned by a member of the Suffragette movement -- for whom green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. All this seems cryptic now, but was clearly understood by everyone in an era when messages were conveyed by the flowers you sent, how you held your fan and which corner of a calling card you folded down, if any.
To the Suffragettes' efforts through many decades in the U.K. and U.S., we modern women owe our right to vote. That right was finally extended to all American women in 1920 and to all in Great Britain in 1928. Thus, although most of the jewelry is Victorian, Edwardian or transitional, some dates from the Art Deco era.
In the case of this bracelet, we have to rule out Edwardian times, because it's so substantial: weighing about 50 grams. Edwardian jewels tended to be delicate and airy, as you know, and they often featured white metals. Thus, it must be Victorian or post-World War I. The design is certainly Art Nouveau, being loaded with curves and scrollwork, and the four domed plaques are joined by fold-over links that are typically 19th century (narrower than the classic bookchain, but basically the same idea). It's impossible to tell for certain whether it dates from the 1890s or a couple of decades later, during the first Victorian Revival period. Either way, it's antique by American 75-year standards. I see nothing that can be called damage -- only age-appropriate surface wear visible under high magnification and, on the reverse, some residue of old glue yellowed with time. Any good jeweler could remove that in a twinkling, if it bothers you, and could also safely polish up the metalwork if you want a brighter look.
From a Florida estate, this beauty measures about 7 inches long, 1.5 inches wide and more than .25 an inch thick. In addition to the 4 big cabochons of faux jade (very beautifully marbled), there are 8 faceted amethyst pastes and 8 faux pearls. The jades are most likely Bohemian (or Czech, if fashioned after WWI), but the amethysts and pearls could be French and I'm inclined to think the setting is French, since working with gilt bronze has been a specialty there for centuries.
Suffragette jewelry has steadily risen in price since the movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they have serious investment value, too.
There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Art Nouveau Suffragette Lavaliere Necklace
Catalogue:
Antiques:
Decorative Art:
Jewelry:
French:
Pre 1920 item# 696564
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$185
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This antique Suffragette necklace is a charmer, styled with an elaborate, oversized surmount and a surprising drop, unexpectedly short, that whimsically suggests a watch fob.
The necklace is jeweled with pretend-jade of beautifully marbled early plastic (probably Galalith, invented in the 1890s) plus amethyst pastes and faux pearls, but the gilt metalwork is the real star here. It's highly dimensional with flower petals, some also suggesting shells. The airy openwork and gracefully articulated construction argue for an Edwardian dating, although it could have been crafted a little earlier or later. The surmount and drop measure about 2 3/8 inches, to which the chain and filigree clasp add about 15 inches. Even the chain is extraordinarily well detailed with bright-cut patterns and beaded edges. This is a very supple chain that's a joy to touch.
My best guess on origin is France, based on the sophisticated wit of the design, the quieter sparkle of the stones compared to those made in Bohemia and the heft of the metal. I expect there's bronze under this gilding, not brass, and the French have always known their way around gilt bronze. Condition, as you see, is superb, showing only slight surface wear on high points under extreme magnification, and provenance is a West Coast estate.
As you know if you collect Suffragette jewelry, the unusual combination of green, purple and white had deep meaning for early feminists. For them, green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. All this seems cryptic now, but was clearly understood by everyone in an era when messages were also communicated by which flowers you sent, how you held your fan and which corner of a calling card you folded down, if any. The wealthiest suffragettes mixed amethysts and pearls or diamonds with green stones such as emeralds or peridots, but pretend gems were naturally favored by the majority.
Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show our appreciation of those who won us the vote. That right was finally extended to all American women in 1920 and to all in Great Britain in 1928. Although forgotten for many years, these jewels have been steadily gaining value since the movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings) and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much harder to find. This is a jewel that offers significant investment potential, as well as exceptional beauty.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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2 Antique Victorian Gold Fox Head Pins for Her or Him
Catalogue:
Antiques:
Decorative Art:
Jewelry:
French:
Pre 1900 item# 687178
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$140
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This pair of circa 1900 antique hunting pins is truly remarkable, both because it's so rare to find a set still together and because they're in virtually pristine condition. Probably of French origin, they're from a gentleman's collection found in Paris and were no doubt used to secure a cravat. Besides using them as tie pins, they'd be beautiful on a scarf or lapels.
The highly detailed and dimensional fox heads measure about 5/8" by 1/2" and the pins are 2" long, crafted in the safety pin style popular in the late 18th century. The reverse of each head is marked ARO and ARO Double, referring to the maker and a double plating process that produced this rich golden finish that still gleams like new today. Hand-craftsmanship was obviously involved, in that one head is a bit more brightly burnished than the other and the end loops vary slightly in size from pin to pin. One pin looks a little more open in the photos, but I've since pinched it in. The underlying metal, whatever it may be, is somewhat malleable but quite sturdy.
The set would be an extraordinary gift -- or two gifts, if you can bear to separate them.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount for international delivery). Giftwrap is always free, too, when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Lovely Victorian Art Nouveau Lady Amid Flowers Buckle
Catalogue:
Antiques:
Decorative Art:
Jewelry:
French:
Pre 1900 item# 379458
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$95 SALE
(Reduced from $130)
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This highly ornate antique Victorian buckle is a showpiece of Art Nouveau design, featuring a beautiful lady amid and even crowned with flowers. There's elaborate scrollwork, too, and all the repousse work was done in very high relief to enrich the design further with shadows and highlights.
Dating to the Late Victorian era, circa 1890-1900, the buckle measures about 3" x 1 3/4" when both parts are fastened and its brackets will accommodate a sash or belt up to 1 1/8" wide. Imagine it at the waist of your prom gown -- or perhaps even a wedding dress -- although you could certainly wear it for less formal occasions, too.
The metal under the gilding appears to be silver of less than sterling grade. (It isn't heavy enough to be pot metal.) Condition is lovely, showing only minor loss of gilt finish. The eye of the fastener (but not the hook) does seem to have been reattached at some point, possibly replaced. The buckle is very sturdy and wearable now, but of course our price reflects the old repair. This would be a great deal more expensive if perfect. Likely origin, based on style and quality of craftsmanship, is French or Belgian, although it reached us from a Chicago collection.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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