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Stunning c1900 Arts & Crafts Silver & Goldstone Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1910   item# 938660

Stunning c1900 Arts & Crafts Silver & Goldstone Ring
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

A stunning choice for either a woman or a man, this antique ring is quintessentially Arts & Crafts. Unusual stones, mounted simply but artfully (typically in silver), are characteristic of the movement. Its adherents wanted design and craftsmanship to dominate.

Among their favorite materials was glittering goldstone: an art glass created by adding copper crystals to produce brilliant flashes of light called aventuresence. Here a large cabochon of it has been polished to a fare-thee-well and set in a classic open-backed bezel, then given a medievalist look by framing it with four curliques cleverly formed from the ends of the dual shank. The shank unites at the rear, making it easy to alter the size, now about a US 5.25. (I say "about" because different ring sizing equipment yields results that vary up to half a size, as our fingers also do with temperature and time of day.) The band is slightly out of round, a common condition that most jewelers will correct in a jiffy while you watch.

The ring's face measures 3/4" by 11/16" and its provenance is a Missouri estate. Nearby Chicago was a hotbed of outstanding Arts & Crafts metalwork, so I'll bet the ring originated there. Its quality is such that it simply had to come from a major city. As is often the case with antique jewelry, no mark is visible -- none were required in the U.S. until shortly before WWI -- but the silver looks to be sterling grade or close. Condition is excellent, requiring high magnification to notice any surface wear. A fair amount of tarnish is present, which in deference to the purists among us we'll leave in place.

There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Victorian Malachite Pearl Rose Gold Cufflinks by Owen

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Accessories: Cufflinks: Pre 1900   item# 938651

Victorian Malachite Pearl Rose Gold Cufflinks by Owen
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

From the Late Victorian era, these spectacular antique Art Nouveau cufflinks feature undulant scrolled frames still crisply detailed after more than a hundred years. They're ovals about 3/4" long, each inset with a slice of variegated green malachite (a great pretender, if it's celluloid) and centered with a gray faux pearl. The 7/8" engraved backs are of the early "torpedo" form, a sure indication of great age. The rosy gold metal is gilded, but it takes magnification to notice surface wear, except to the reverses. Rose gold was a great favorite in the 1890s, as it is again today, so the cufflinks most likely date from that decade.

Each link is stamped QUIKFIXR on both portions, which lets us identify the maker as Harry Owen and Sons of Birmingham, England. They were noted for quality and innovation in cufflinks, collar studs and other men's jewelry items, holding numerous patents and exhibiting at major shows. These stunning examples of their work reached us from an estate in the Carolinas.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Remarkable Domed Antique Ring in Suffragette Colors

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Rhinestone: Pre 1930   item# 938646

Remarkable Domed Antique Ring in Suffragette Colors
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

As you know if you collect Suffragette jewelry, rings are the holy grail. Of the few made, most are very fine and priced accordingly. An example with faux gems is a rare find, especially one this impressive in size.

Its condition is wonderful, too, but that isn't so unusual. Because Suffragette jewels of all types were worn typically for meetings and marches, not on an everyday basis, they've often survived looking nearly new, assuming careful storage.

This ring is just about flawless. Only under extremely high magnification can any surface wear be noted on its stones, even the glass pearls, or on high points of the gilded surface -- a ruffly round of heart-shaped scrollwork crowned by a richly colored dome of pretend emeralds, pearls and amethyst.

Slightly more than inch in diameter, this is a jewel that can't be overlooked, and its shank is adjustable to fit any finger. The Art Nouveau styling would lead me to call it Victorian -- and it may be -- but the sensational condition suggests a more conservative circa 1920 dating. As you know, American women attained the vote in 1920, but it took until 1928 for all women in England to be included. Probable origin is Czech (or Bohemian, if made before WWI dissolved the old Austro-Hungarian Empire). The ring reached us from a Midwestern estate.

The unusual color combination held deep meaning among 19th century and early 20th century feminists, for whom green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. All this seems cryptic now, but was clearly understood by everyone in an era when messages were also communicated by which flowers you sent, how you held your fan and which corner of a calling card you folded down, if any.

Tucked away and forgotten for decades, Suffragette jewelry began rapidly gaining value when the movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). We try our best to maintain a good selection, but demand keeps growing. At present, we have several necklaces, brooches and earring sets in stock, but we've never had the opportunity to offer a costume ring before. If it strikes your fancy, you'd better not delay.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Thanks for looking!



Antique Necklace Beaded in Suffragette Colors

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Strands: Pre 1920   item# 935247

Antique Necklace Beaded in Suffragette Colors
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

When you see green, white and violet together on historic jewelry, this unusual color combination usually signifies that the piece was originally owned by a member of the Suffragette movement. To them, the first letters of these colors stood for Give Women (the) Vote.

Here that message resounds in a beautiful rope-like necklace, lovingly woven of white, violet and green beads -- hundreds or perhaps thousands of them. At 28 inches long, it doesn't need a clasp.

The necklaces drape beautifully and, despite its thickness, is very light and comfortable to wear. The beads look like celluloid, but may be some other early plastic.

Woven necklaces of this type were popular from Late Victorian through Edwardian times and into the early years of the Art Deco era. Ours comes from an Ohio estate in amazing condition. It can't have been worn much, probably because it was made very shortly before the vote was granted and then tucked away as a memento. I expect it was created between 1910 and 1920.

Suffragette jewelry has been rocketing in price since the 2004 TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" revealed what those gals went through (arrests, hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they have serious investment value, too.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Victorian Enameled Gilt Silver Filigree Butterfly Pin

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 865540

Victorian Enameled Gilt Silver Filigree Butterfly Pin
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

Whenever we're longing for spring or welcoming it, a colorful butterfly brooch suits the mood. Here's an especially charming antique one, fashioned of hallmarked 800 silver with panels of exquisite plique a jour enamelwork. That's the transparent kind, which lets light gleam through like stained glass. You can even glimpse the fine filigree through the colors -- artful blends of yellow, green, aqua and violet.

We can date the brooch precisely by its pin mechanism, a type used circa 1890, yet its condition is superb. I can't find any enamel losses. The filigree shows age patina, of course, and you might want this brightened a bit. A gentle polish by your jeweler would do it. (Please don't try cleaning enameled jewels at home, since even water can be damaging.)

Particularly clever is the sturdy understructure that supports these gracefully fluttering wings; it looks rather like a bi-plane. There's also an unusual early safety catch, the type with a v-shaped lever. The clasp is an old open C.

Size is about an inch in each direction and half an inch high. Probable origin would be Austro-Hungarian or Italian, though it reached us as a Texas estate find. The reverse has, besides the 800 stamp, a lozenge-shaped maker mark we haven't yet been able to interpret.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Thanks for looking!



Giant Sterling and Moonstone Peace Dove Necklace '60s

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Modernism: Pre 1970   item# 855705

Giant Sterling and Moonstone Peace Dove Necklace '60s
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

If you're looking for a "statement necklace," here it is -- unmistakably making the statement "Peace and Love" via a gorgeous domed pendant 3 1/4 inches round!

This handcrafted vintage pendant of hammered sterling features a stylized dove whose wings and tail are formed with cutout hearts. Adorned with a collet-set cabochon of blue-white moonstone -- the prized color that's so hard to find today -- it also has a glinting eye of lightly gold-washed silver.

The marks are Sterling, Eden and Eden repeated within an apple shape. I find no record of a firm called Eden, so this may be the creation of an independent designer. That would also explain the Sterling mark, which large-scale makers began replacing with a 925 stamp during the 1930s. Dating has to be during the Vietnam War -- far more likely the hippie '60s than the disco '70s, based on design. Of course, given the elegance of this jewel, its style is far from basic Boho; it's what we poor college students of the time enviously called Trust Fund Hippie.

Provenance is a Cape Cod estate and condition, as you see, is superb. We added the contemporary sterling chain 20 inches long.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Rare Antique Victorian Bell Charm Stickpin, His or Hers

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 835525

Rare Antique Victorian Bell Charm Stickpin, His or Hers
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

Our delightful bell-shaped antique stickpin must have been fashioned for a gentleman with a highly developed sense of occasion -- the anti-Scrooge, as it were. Obviously perfect to wear during the holiday season, it would also be wonderful for a wedding, christening or any other bell-worthy occasion.

Extremely sturdy and quite rare in form, the pin features a bell that dangles like a charm, swaying freely. (There was never a clapper, so it doesn't make annoying noises.) The bell is so perfect in shape that it must have been cast, but the stock and large jump ring were handcrafted. The stock has the twist in the center that indicates great age, as well as a very graceful curve at the top (from which the bell hangs) that makes me think of old street lanterns.

The pin dates from around the middle of the 19th century, I believe. It was in early Victorian years, soon after the queen's marriage to Prince Albert, that German Christmas traditions entered England and the festival became more important, acquiring most of the traditions now associated with it. In 1841, the Royals put up their first Christmas tree and, also around that time, they began sending Christmas cards. Thus, it was exceedingly fashionable then to ornament oneself in the holiday spirit -- and the quality of this piece indicates it was worn by an "early adopter" of some social standing. This is no flimsy mass-produced trinket. It was most likely made in England; it could, however, be from elsewhere in Europe or from the US. (If American, a pin of this type would certainly have come from New York, since people there were also quick to take up Christmas customs derived from their Dutch heritage and generally close links to Europe.)

There's no question that all the parts are original, since the color match is so precise. Everything's a softly patinated golden hue. I can't say for sure what the metal is, since I'm averse to damaging lovely old things with files and test acids, but the weight suggests rolled gold or bronze, rather than brass. Total length is 2 1/4" and the bell, alone, is about 5/8" tall and 5/8" round at the bottom. The jewel is so well-made that the only flaws I can find are a few teensy dings visible only with magnification and a slight waviness to the lower part of the stock, which any good jeweler could straighten if desired. Provenance is an estate in Arizona: a great place for antiques, since so many people retire there and the climate preserves things beautifully.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Thanks for looking!



BELAIS Deco Dragonfly Ring Gold Filigree Onyx Diamond

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Deco: Pre 1930   item# 816127

BELAIS Deco Dragonfly Ring Gold Filigree Onyx Diamond
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you!  

Genuine antique jewels with the dragonfly motif are so coveted that they're very hard to get now, as you probably know if you collect Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry. Making this dragonfly ring even more rare and collectible, it's by the legendary Belais Brothers - makers of the finest white gold filigree in the early 20th century.

Stamped 14k BELAIS, it has an intricately worked basket setting, its sides formed by the exquisitely textured bodies and outspread wings of two large dragonflies. The mounting holds two fancy-cut tablets of highly polished black onyx arranged to look like one elongated stone and set with a small accent diamond framed in white gold. Measuring 3/4" long, 3/8" wide and 3/16" high, this is a dramatic jewel that can't possibly be overlooked. Current size is about a U.S. 6, easily altered since the back of the shank isn't ornamented.

The condition of the filigree is wonderfully crisp and, of course, the bulk of the ring's value resides in its masterful goldwork. Visible only on the underside, there's evidence of an old repair where the onyx stones join. I considered having the onyx replaced, but thought the next owner might prefer to add more colorful gems, instead. Aquamarine, citrine or garnet would be incredibly lovely. The one small flaw was reflected in our original price, which would have been considerably higher if everything were perfect.

At the present sale price, this treasure is a steal. You'll want it insured for $1,000 or more -- a great deal more, if the price of gold keeps rising.

There's no charge for insured delivery anywhere in the U.S. or to most foreign countries. Thanks for looking!



Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1930   item# 730488

Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

If you don't mind being noticed (and envied), this large and spectacular antique ring is meant for you. It's a knuckle-covering 1 1/4 inches tall and 3/4 of an inch wide at leaf level.

The floral motif, as you see, is absolutely enchanting. Marcasite "dewdrops" nestle among the rose petals and their shape is echoed by round embossing on the leaves. Edges and shoulders are lovingly detailed, as well. Naturally this was the creation of a master, namely Vincent Sorrentino, an Italian immigrant who formed Uncas Manufacturing Company in Rhode Island in 1911. The turn of the twentieth century in America attracted many talented artisans and jewelers from Italy, who were instrumental in development of the American fine and costume jewelry industry.

Rivoli-cut marcasites normally smooth after this long, but here they're still sharply pointed for maximum dazzle. Overall condition of the ring is simply lovely: better than the first one of this type that we sold and as fine as the second and third, which were gone within days -- so, if it strikes your fancy, it would be smart not to delay.

The only difference between this and the others I've had is that the "U" (for Uncas) has an arrow through it, rather than an arrow on each side. That indicates it's a little younger, most likely dating from around the mid-20s, rather than pre-WWI. This design being so gorgeous, they probably made it for 10 or 15 years, until the Nouveau manner was considered totally passť. The company continued in business until the 1980s, using a plethora of different marks as time went on (like Stylecraft in the '30s, Stylerite, Glow-Lite and Jewels of Fashion in the '40s, Sorrento and Vincenzo in the '50s and '60s and Corsini in the '70s and '80s).

Present size is about a US 6 - 6.5, easily changed since the back of the shank is plain. From a New York estate, it's been polished somewhat more brightly than I'd have done, but inevitable tarnish will soon darken it again -- and perhaps you prefer a gleaming look, anyway.

Thanks for looking!



Large Art Nouveau Repousse Filigree Heart Pin Pendant

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 727477

Large Art Nouveau Repousse Filigree Heart Pin Pendant
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

This exceptionally beautiful antique necklace pendant, also wearable as a brooch, was obviously hand-crafted. The wax around which the domed front with its intricate repousse details was formed remains in place (as with those fine silver hairbrushes and hand-mirrors of the same period); you can see it through the pretty pierced back. Heavily gilded, the jewel is in marvelous condition - showing the rich patina of age and only minor losses of finish (most on reverse). It measures about 2 1/4 inches by 2 inches, so is a highly impressive, can't-miss-it piece.

Dating is a bit uncertain, since the design says 1885-1900, but this type of safety clasp wasn't introduced until a little later. The pinstem appears to have been shortened (as was common for safety's sake) and the present clasp may have been added at that time. Whether this is Late Victorian or Edwardian, it's a true antique and a rare treasure. Provenance is a West Coast estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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