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Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry (302)

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Fantastically Huge Antique Multan Enamel Silver Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Pre Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 1228199

Fantastically Huge Antique Multan Enamel Silver Ring
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

This stupendously scaled ring from the Punjab was sold to me as 18th century, but I'm calling it 19th century to be conservative, since I know so little about jewels of this type. From what I've read, it's of a form often called "enamel mosaic" and is traditional to an area that includes parts of modern Pakistan, Afghanistan and Iran. The name comes from a famous town, Multan, which dates back to the time of Alexander the Great or before.

As you see, the look evokes fancy prayer rugs and Paisley shawls and the ring almost covers my finger. It's nearly 2 1/2 inches tall, with every smidgen of surface covered by intricate, hand-crafted metalwork: enameled floral and geometric shapes within the central panel, surrounded by four rows of edging, two of them highly dimensional.

The metal typically used is coin silver, not high grade, and indeed you'd want something sturdy to preserve all this detail. As is inevitable with rustic jewelry of great age, there are enamel losses -- but the abundance that remains makes it difficult to notice what's missing. Also worth mentioning is that the color intensity varies with the light; whether this is due to the nature of the enamels or general wear, I don't know. Too, the shank, although adjustable, is a little bent, so it might be smart to have your jeweler make the first size adjustment for you; s/he can put it back into round at the same time. Current size is about a US 6 -6.5. (We state sizes as a range, because results from different types of measuring equipment can vary up to half a size, as our fingers also do with the time of day and temperature.)

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Crown and Heart Brooch of Hallmarked Sterling

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Scandinavian: Pre 1930   item# 1163799

Antique Crown and Heart Brooch of Hallmarked Sterling
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

This charming little treasure has led me on quite a chase. It struck me initially as a Scottish “luckenbooth” brooch from the early 19th century, and I could easily have let the issue lie right there – EXCEPT for its tantalizing row of hallmarks obscured by heavy tarnish. Normally, I defer to the purists among us and leave things in as-found condition, but in this case my curiosity got the best of me.

Lo and behold, those hallmarks told an entirely different story once they were restored to legibility! The brooch isn’t Scottish at all, but Scandinavian – crafted in Sweden and at least 100 years younger than suggested by its style, size and details of fabrication (T-hinge, open C clasp and thick, elongated pinstem).

It apparently dates from 1928, old enough to be antique by American 75-year standards, but it’s of a form consciously preserved without change for hundreds of years, in the same tradition as folkloric costumes. Again as with costumes (and worn with them on special occasions), these crowned heart jewels show minor differences from region to region and somewhat greater variations from nation to nation; for instance, the Norwegian version typically features filigree and the Scottish variation usually lacks dangling drops and may feature two hearts intertwined.

How Scotland got involved in all of this is simply a matter of geography becoming history, as it tends to do. Being just a short sail away in Viking days, much of Scotland fell under Norse rule and colonization created a Norse-Gael culture which is still reflected in many names and customs. As I was reminded by my research, the last Norse-held territory wasn’t ceded until the time of James III of Scotland, who married a Norwegian princess in 1468. Funnily enough, crowned heart brooches were soon (if not already) being sold as love tokens from lockable booths (so-called luckenbooths), located along Edinburgh’s Royal Mile from the 15th century until 1817.

That said, you’ll acquire a wonderful conversation piece, if you acquire this brooch which looks so utterly Georgian and Scottish but isn’t. Size is 1 ¾ inches by ¾, but it seems bigger, being sturdily built, with a nice heft to it, and extremely eye-catching due to the drops that dance with every motion.

There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Lovely Vintage Enameled Silver Swans Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Period: Pre 1970   item# 1161534

Lovely Vintage Enameled Silver Swans Ring
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

In a season when rings with animal motifs are the trendiest bling around, what fun to find that design in a historic jewel that will hold its value beyond the present and gain value as time goes on!

This ring with its pair of graceful swans is an enchanter, built up in shades of blue enamel with silver wirework on a domed band. We know it's from a Pennsylvania estate, but chronologically, it's one of those marvelous mysteries we run across now and then.

Whereas the design first suggests the late 1960s aesthetic -- hippie neo-Romanticism to the max -- the hallmark introduces a big question mark. The ring isn't stamped "925" (as was typical after the mid-1930s) or "Sterling" (as was seen earlier). Instead, it simply reads "Silver" -- suggesting not only a somewhat less than sterling grade but an early dating. Thus, the ring may be decades older than it seems. It isn't unlike some pieces produced in the early 30s, when Disney-esque figural jewelry was popular -- and it could be even older, an Arts & Crafts piece.

Certainly it has some age -- however much -- but most importantly it's absolutely stunning and, being adjustable, it can be worn by anyone on nearly any finger. Condition is great, with only a couple of little enamel flaws that appear to be original, not damage.

There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Enameled Hippie Bracelet w Peace Symbols and Doves

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Unsigned: Pre 1980   item# 1161532

Enameled Hippie Bracelet w Peace Symbols and Doves
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

Definitively from the late 1960s or early 1970s, this delightful vintage bracelet has seen little or no use. Its condition, as you see, is remarkable. The pretty blue and lilac enamelwork is practically pristine and the brushed silvertone interior still shines like the Dickens. This is a quality piece with nice heft and it seems wider than an inch because of being domed.

The bracelet clamps on with sturdy spring action and will fit virtually any wrist, Provenance is a West Coast estate. Sadly, the message is as timely now as it was more than 40 years ago.

There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Agate Silver Ring by Clark and Coombs c1900

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1910   item# 1113588

Antique Agate Silver Ring by Clark and Coombs c1900
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

This spectacular antique ring features a beautifully translucent large cabochon of dendritic agate -- the type with dark inclusions resembling ice crystal, also called mocha stone. It's collet-set in a sleek Arts & Crafts mounting of sterling silver that will please either a gentleman or a lady who favors bold forms. The ring's face is large, but not overpowering (not quite 3/4" tall)and stylized decorations on each side show the slight variations that demonstrate hand-craftsmanship.

These so-called "fancy" agates were highly prized in Late Victorian and Edwardian times. They suited the taste for unusual gems that we see in both Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewelry, along with their emphasis on artistic design and meticulous workmanship. The new ideal was for everything to be special and unique in some ways, as opposed to the mass-produced goods of the Industrial Revolution. Ultimately this worthy movement died of its own good taste. The insistence on ultra-fine fabrication priced most people out of the market.

The maker in the present instance, Clark & Coombs of Providence, R.I., is a perfect illustration of that. Established in 1862, C & C had a national reputation for gold and silver rings by the early 20th century and tried to carry on without further mechanization, but was unable to compete effectively. Although the firm still exists, it was taken over by new management and modernized for greater output after World War II.

It's wonderful when we find an example of their exquisite early creations. Most likely this ring dates from between 1890 and 1910. While the basic shape of the setting was used through much of the 19th century, the very clean lines of its ornamentation anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve around the turn of the century. Its interior bears a "Sterling" hallmark and the C&C stamp used until 1915 (two Cs in triangles around a stylized ampersand tilting right).

Based on all these facts, it really isn't stretching a point to say that this ring has historical importance. It's also distinguished by being in near-mint condition, despite great age. Provenance is a Pacific Northwest estate and the current size, about a U.S. 8 - 8.5, can be easily altered, since the back of the shank is plain.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Art Nouveau Gold and Amethyst Heart Stickpin

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 1113311

Antique Art Nouveau Gold and Amethyst Heart Stickpin
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

The gracefully stylized heart form of this lovely stickpin, with its slight asymmetry, dates it firmly to the Art Nouveau era -- and it's almost certain to be a Victorian jewel, since it isn't marked but tests as 10k gold. (Hallmarks weren't mandated in the U.S. until the Edwardian era.)

The almandine-shaped stone of rich purple is gorgeously faceted and appears to be genuine amethyst. After a century, glass would be abraded, whereas the gem shows hardly any wear, even under high magnification. As the stone's setting is open at the back, we know the color is natural, without foil enhancement.

Length of the pin is 2 1/4 inches and the heart measures about 5/8 inch by half an inch. Condition, as you see, is lovely in every way. Even the stock shows no waviness, which is quite rare. Provenance of this treasure is a Midwestern estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Rare Antique Sterling Silver Suffragette Bar Brooch

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian: Pre 1910   item# 1109825

Rare Antique Sterling Silver Suffragette Bar Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

Very finely crafted with ornate ends and edges, this antique bar pin is of sterling silver (unmarked but tested), set with sparkling amethyst, peridot and diamond pastes. That it's sterling is quite remarkable for a Suffragette item; typically these are either totally costume or top end, made of gold and gems.

Complementing the beautiful metalwork, the stones here are excellent pretenders, especially the 16 fancy-cut amethysts channel-set in groups of four. Every stone appears original. Another nod to unusual quality is the early safety lever fitted on the C clasp. This is a type that dates from the 19th century, as is the hinge with its slight sideways wobble. The pinstem, originally elongated, was snipped to a less hazardous length at some time, as is common with brooches this old. Either Late Victorian or Edwardian, it reached us from a Florida estate. Likeliest dating would be 1900-1910.

Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery. Gift-wrap is always free when desired. Thanks for looking!



Antique Necklace Beaded in Suffragette Colors

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Strands: Pre 1920   item# 1080618

Antique Necklace Beaded in Suffragette Colors
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

When you see green, white and violet together on historic jewelry, this unusual color combination usually signifies that the piece was owned by a member of the Suffragette movement. To them, the first letters of these colors stood for Give Women (the) Vote.

Here that message resounds in a beautiful rope-like necklace, lovingly woven of white, violet and green beads -- hundreds or perhaps thousands of them. At 38 inches long, it doesn't need a clasp. The necklace drapes beautifully and, despite its thickness, is very light and comfortable to wear. The beads look like celluloid, but may be some other early plastic.

Woven necklaces of this type were popular from Late Victorian through Edwardian times and into the early years of the Art Deco era. Ours comes from an Illinois estate in wonderful condition. It can't have been worn much -- probably because it was made very shortly before the vote was granted and then tucked away as a memento. I expect it was created between 1910 and 1920, possibly by its original owner or as a gift for her from a friend or family member. Ladies of this era were highly skilled at handicrafts and publications offered them lots of ideas and instructions. We recently sold a necklace of the very same pattern but only 28 inches in length, which reinforces the notion that this design may have appeared in a popular magazine.

All Suffragette jewelry has been rocketing in price since the 2004 TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" revealed what the gals went through (arrests, hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they have serious investment value, too.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Gold Filigree Sweetheart Ring or Wedding Band 1930s

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Deco: Pre 1940   item# 1043712

Gold Filigree Sweetheart Ring or Wedding Band 1930s
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

This gracefully shaped filigree ring of yellow gold has an Edwardian delicacy, but most likely dates from around 1930-1935, still in the the Art Deco era but after the crash of 1929.

"Depression Deco" jewels are less lavish than styles from the 1920s, but they can be very pretty, indeed. Piercework and textures were used artfully to make the most of less gold and provide sparkle without gemstones. This is a refreshing look today, when many of us also crave elegant simplicity instead of extravagance.

Marked 10K, this beauty from a Midwestern estate also bears the letters AF JC - probably the initials of bride and groom but possibly a maker's stamp. Currently a U.S. size 6, it's in splendid condition, ready to celebrate its next love story.

BTW, wedding rings of this chevron shape, which dips below the base of the finger, are particularly pretty on small hands - creating the illusion of greater finger length. When worn with an engagement ring, the solitaire can sit lower on the knuckle, being nestled into the band's scalloped top.

Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Mesmerizing Antique Arts and Crafts Blue Spinel Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Pre 1940   item# 1038613

Mesmerizing Antique Arts and Crafts Blue Spinel Ring
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you. $285 SALE. Was $345.
Free U.S. Shipping
& Gift-Wrap, if Desired 

This antique blue spinel ring has a hypnotic effect, like gazing through the sheen of sunlight into deep, deep water. It's more than an inch tall, about 3/8 of an inch wide and stunningly faceted. Getting photos was a major challenge, due to the gem's mirror-like luster and elaborate marquise cut.

Many people mistakenly believe spinels are synthetics, when actually they're among the hardest and loveliest natural gemstones. In their most common red version, they've been frequently confused with rubies. For instance, the famous "Black Prince's Ruby" in the British Imperial State Crown turned out to be a spinel. Being blue, this is a rare spinel to begin with, and its ultra-rich color and size add to the rarity.

Another fascinating attribute of this ring is the convergence of Arts and Crafts and Art Deco style currents. The setting, appropriately for such a fancy-shaped stone, is simple, graceful and more than likely hand-made. Ornamented with only a couple of silver beads and a bit of engraving on the sides, the mount has a distinctly Arts and Crafts look. However, an early Arts and Crafts piece probably would have a plain cabochon stone, rather than a towering geometric shape suggesting Art Deco. Based on the blend of design influences, I believe it was made around 1930, so it's already antique by American 75-year standards.

Condition of the jewel is lovely. It takes a 10X loupe to notice any flaws at all and, even then, signs of age-appropriate wear are very minor. Markings inside the band are "Sterling Shank" and a maker's mark I haven't been able to interpret. It's a "V" over a horizontal diamond shape. If that means anything to you, please let us know.



The ring came from a New York estate, where the seller noted, "Blue spinel brings peace." I don't know about that, but this one is sure to bring a lot of pleasure.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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