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Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver (56)

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Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1930   item# 730488

Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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If you don't mind being noticed (and envied), this large and spectacular antique ring is meant for you. It's a knuckle-covering 1 1/4 inches tall and 3/4 of an inch wide at leaf level.

The floral motif, as you see, is absolutely enchanting. Marcasite "dewdrops" nestle among the rose petals and their shape is echoed by round embossing on the leaves. Edges and shoulders are lovingly detailed, as well. Naturally this was the creation of a master, namely Vincent Sorrentino, an Italian immigrant who formed Uncas Manufacturing Company in Rhode Island in 1911. The turn of the twentieth century in America attracted many talented artisans and jewelers from Italy, who were instrumental in development of the American fine and costume jewelry industry.

Rivoli-cut marcasites normally smooth after this long, but here they're still sharply pointed for maximum dazzle. Overall condition of the ring is simply lovely: better than the first one of this type that we sold and as fine as the second and third, which were gone within days -- so, if it strikes your fancy, it would be smart not to delay.

The only difference between this and the others I've had is that the "U" (for Uncas) has an arrow through it, rather than an arrow on each side. That indicates it's a little younger, most likely dating from around the mid-20s, rather than pre-WWI. This design being so gorgeous, they probably made it for 10 or 15 years, until the Nouveau manner was considered totally passé. The company continued in business until the 1980s, using a plethora of different marks as time went on (like Stylecraft in the '30s, Stylerite, Glow-Lite and Jewels of Fashion in the '40s, Sorrento and Vincenzo in the '50s and '60s and Corsini in the '70s and '80s).

Present size is about a US 6 - 6.5, easily changed since the back of the shank is plain. From a New York estate, it's been polished somewhat more brightly than I'd have done, but inevitable tarnish will soon darken it again -- and perhaps you prefer a gleaming look, anyway.

Thanks for looking!



Darling Deco Sterling Marcasite Hearts and Arrow Brooch

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Deco: Pre 1940   item# 727463

Darling Deco Sterling Marcasite Hearts and Arrow Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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This beautiful brooch of sterling silver set with sparkling marcasites is not only romantic but a very high quality jewel, intricately detailed. It measures almost 2 inches from feathers to tip and would be a delightful expression of affection for any gal who loves Art Deco jewelry.

Condition of the piece is lovely and probable dating would be around 1930, based on the 925 hallmark. The word sterling would more likely have appeared in the 1920s. By American 75-year standards, it will very soon be antique rather than merely vintage, if it isn't already.

There's no charge for gift wrap and insured U.S. shipping. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Deco Crystal Sterling Pendant w/ Diamond and Marcasites

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Deco: Pre 1930   item# 701089

Deco Crystal Sterling Pendant w/ Diamond and Marcasites
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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This early 20th century pendant is a spectacular example of the icy white-on-white look so fashionable during the Edwardian era and immediately thereafter. Carved rock crystal had been used in earlier Victorian jewelry, but it took on a very different air when frosted, set in white metals, rather than Victorian gold or gilt, and given the Edwardian refinements of cutwork and millegrain detail.

The style persisted through transitional and early Art Deco years, and this pendant strikes me as slightly post-WWI. Its geometric shape suggests Art Deco, although it does have Edwardian-style cutwork and millegraining. It also has a lovely load of rivoli-cut marcasites (technically hematites) and a small diamond accent. Made of silver (stamped sterling) with richly patinated recesses, it measures about an inch wide and 1.75 inches tall. There's a lot of heft to it. Condition is lovely, as you see, and provenance is a Midwestern estate.

Jewels of this type are so beautiful that they're widely copied now, both in rock crystal and camphor glass. Even the replicas are valuable, but of course it's much nicer to have the real thing.

Thanks for looking!



Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1920   item# 698080

Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


Sold; thank you!

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& Gift-Wrap if Desired) 

If you don't mind being noticed (and envied), this large and spectacular antique ring is meant for you. It's a knuckle-covering 1 1/4 inches tall and 3/4 of an inch wide at leaf level.

The design, as you see, is absolutely enchanting. Marcasite "dewdrops" nestle among the rose petals and their shape is echoed by round embossing on the leaves. Edges and shoulders are lovingly detailed, as well. Naturally this was the creation of a master, namely Vincent Sorrentino, an Italian immigrant who formed Uncas Manufacturing Company in Rhode Island in 1911. The turn of the twentieth century in America attracted many talented artisans and jewelers from Italy, who were instrumental in the development of the American fine and costume jewelry industry. The Uncas "U" between two arrows (their earliest mark) appears inside the ring, along with the Sterling stamp.

Most likely it was made before 1918, since the ring is so Art Nouveau and that style didn't survive World War I. Present size (easily changed) is about a US 4.75. The rivoli-cut marcasites normally smooth after this long, but here they're still sharply pointed for maximum dazzle. Overall condition is simply lovely: better than that of the first ring of this type that we had in the past and as fine as the second, which sold within days -- so, if this strikes your fancy, it would be smart not to delay.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Superb Victorian Neoclassical Sapphire Ring size 10.5

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 691013

Superb Victorian Neoclassical Sapphire Ring size 10.5
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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At size 10.5, this astounding antique ring was fashioned either for a man or for a woman to wear over gloves. Certainly it was hand-made, most likely in the 1860s or early 1870s. That's when the Neoclassical Revival was going full-tilt and the paintings of Lawrence Alma-Tadema took the world by storm.

The Greco-Roman beauty pictured here in a toga-like garment and classical headband could easily have stepped from one of his luxurious ancient scenes -- and even the heavenly blue of an Alma-Tadema sea is captured by the four sapphires that adorn the carved portrait. "Sapphire" means blue in Greek, BTW, and there's nothing bluer than the Aegean. It's known as "The Stone of Destiny" and, as such, is said to promote mental clarity and good fortune.

Besides being neoclassical to the max, the ring shows Arts and Crafts influence in its meticulous artistry, as well as the graceful simplicity of the mounting and the choice of silver, rather than gold.

These sapphires were represented to me as genuine gems of 5 point size. I'm no jeweler, but they appear real and are set as gems should be, open at the back for optimal sparkle. The only mark visible is Sterling, which suggests American origin. A European jewel of the same age and exquisite quality would have a row of symbolic hallmarks. There's a lot of silver involved, as the ring's face measures about 3/4 of an inch by 3/8 and total weight is in excess of 8 grams. Condition, as you see, is lovely and provenance is a Minnesota estate.

Whether you choose this as a special gift for your favorite gentleman or prefer to have the shank reduced to your size, you'll be very proud of it, indeed. It's a one-of-a-kind jewel worthy of those who collect the finest and it wouldn't be out of place in a museum display.

A maker mark may well lie under the deep patina on the ring's reverse, but the decision on far to go with cleaning rightly belongs to the next owner. Someone has recently polished the rest of it, thankfully with great sensitivity and intelligence. You wouldn't want it stripped back to made-yesterday whiteness.

Thanks for looking!



Exquisite Antique Arts and Crafts Suffragette Brooch

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1900   item# 686092

Exquisite Antique Arts and Crafts Suffragette Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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Arts and Crafts workmanship is renowned for its excellence, but this brooch takes the prize. The level of detail here has to be called obsessive. Photographs only begin to capture it; in fact, it can't be fully appreciated without magnification. The leaves, for instance, are not only veined but finely stippled and a tiny whorl is incised at the base of the stem. Equal precision applies to the shapes, not only to their crisply defined edges but also to how they've been positioned sculpturally.

For even more dimension, the gorgeous stones are set high above the background elements. A raised undergallery holds six prong-set emerald pastes and then a collet rises in the center to frame the amethyst paste. A top-knot of faux moonstone globes is wired above -- completing the Suffragette palette of colors and also beautifully balancing the curve of the stem below the sparkling flower. Within the Suffragette movement, green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry featured, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote.

The back of the brooch is also fascinating. A sort of tendril stretches gracefully between the leaves and adds support for the stem. The old hinge and open C clasp, obviously original, have a rosy glow from underlying copper where silver plating has worn. The rest of the brooch appears to be silver (probably a sturdier grade than sterling to hold protect this detail). Patches of patina remain on the reverse and lots is visible beneath the flowerhead. The front was given a skillful light polish by someone not long ago; you can still see small areas of tarnish among the stipples and a generally warm tone all over. The silver hasn't been stripped back to made-yesterday whiteness, thank goodness.

That no marks are present is a surprise, given how much work went into this treasure. The glass stones, based on their superb quality, must be Bohemian. The brooch, itself, was probably crafted in America, where silver didn't have to be marked until latter Edwardian times. Most likely dating would be the end of the Victorian era or the earliest Edwardian years, around 1900 to 1905. Size is 1 7/8" x 1", but its dimensionality and rich coloring make the brooch seem bigger. There's one oddity I should mention: a teensy hole drilled near the base of one leaf, which is difficult to notice. Perhaps more white beads were wired there and it would certainly be easy to add some.

Another lovely way to wear this pin would be at your throat on a ribbon choker.

Forgotten for many years, Suffragette jewels have rapidly gained value since the movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much harder to find.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery). Gift-wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Superb Imperial Russian Enamel 950 Silver Brooch 1890s

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1900   item# 617416

Superb Imperial Russian Enamel 950 Silver Brooch 1890s
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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This breathtaking antique floral brooch is characteristic of Art Nouveau enameled silver jewels produced in Moscow circa 1885-1900. In Tsarist Russia, enameled jewelry was considered the very best, and fittingly the nation produced enamelists generally considered the world's most accomplished since Byzantine times.

Here, the artist -- working in 950 siver (purer than sterling grade) -- first fashioned a dimensional disk domed toward its scalloped outer edges, then prepared it for enameling in the demanding cloisonne manner by creating cloisonnes (cells) of minute silver wire, twisted and formed into a paisley-like pinwheel motif radiating from a central flowerhead. Finally, the cells were filled with a succession of jewel-toned enamels. Each color requires a different temperature for firing, so it's rare to see so many different hues together in one piece. Here we have five: ruby, garnet, sapphire, turquoise and jade.

Every element of this intricate creation has survived in superlative condition -- almost miraculously, given the delicacy of such pure silver and enamelwork. It measures about 1.5 inches round, plenty big enough to make a major statement, and has both a hinge and open C clasp right for the period. The pinstem would have originally been elongated well beyond the brooch, but at some point that was snipped for safety (not a bad idea, since those extra-long ones can easily draw blood).

The only mark is 950, so this treasure was most likely crafted by a Russian jeweler working outside the country -- perhaps a Victorian-era immigrant who rightly sensed big trouble looming on the horizon and made his way to Europe, America or Canada around the turn of the century. The brooch reached us from a Minnesota estate.

Any good jeweler could easily add a bale, enabling you to wear this is a necklace, as well as a brooch -- or it could simply be pinned to a wide ribbon and worn beautifully as a choker.

BTW, a similar but smaller pendant is offered elsewhere online for $450 and a larger belt buckle is offered at $585, so our price is extremely good value.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shiping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Petite Antique Sterling Filigree Peridot Ring sz 4

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1920   item# 602334

Petite Antique Sterling Filigree Peridot Ring sz 4
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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This graceful silver filigree ring has the delicacy and ethereal coloration we associate with Edwardian times. It's also of the dainty scale favored then for unmarried women, on whom large jewelry was considered vulgar. It would still be a wonderful choice for a young girl or teenager, although it could be worn by a small woman or as a pinky ring by just about any gal. The face of the jewel is not quite half an inch tall, detailed with flowers, leaves, scrollwork and a lattice-like effect as it joins the shank. Since the band is unornamented, it can easily be sized up or down.

That it's marked Sterling (rather than the later 925) upholds an early 20th century dating. The prettily faceted, spring green stone looks like peridot and may well be real. If not, it's very good crystal, probably Czech. The stone is prong-set and open to the back. Condition of the ring is lovely, requiring high magnification to notice age-appropriate wear (except to the Sterling mark inside). Provenance is a Texas estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Vintage Earrings Boucher Parisina Ballerina Figural

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Designer Signed: Pre 1950   item# 592827

Vintage Earrings Boucher Parisina Ballerina Figural
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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These stunning Retro Modernist sterling silver earrings are from the legendary Marcel Boucher's Parisina line -- a label he produced in Mexico exclusively during World War II.

Since the mark was used so briefly, Parisina jewels are highly collectible and growing hard to find. The dancers and figure skaters are in particular demand, because they're so graceful and unusual. They can be precisely dated to 1944, based on design patents. Quite generously sized, about 1 1/2 inches long, these beauties are in exquisite condition, showing only slight age-appropriate surface wear under high magnification. Backs are screw type and original. Besides their Sterling hallmarks, the reverses show the Parisina mark, your assurance that they're a rare combination of Boucher's sophisticated design and the artistry of talented Mexican craftsmen. Most Parisina jewelry is of silver; however, I noticed elsewhere online a pair of earrings like these but only of gilded base metal, yet priced identically to our sterling ones.

These stylized, highly dimensional shapes remind me of Brancusi sculpture and clearly evoke the soaring spirit of Dance. They'd make a memorable gift for any dancer or ballet enthusiast.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Mid-19th c. Victorian Malachite & Silver Pendant

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 556955

Mid-19th c. Victorian Malachite & Silver Pendant
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404


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Egypt took Victorian England by storm around 1850, when Thomas Cook launched the first Pyramid Tours. This hand-made pendant of unmarked silver inlaid with malachite -- much of the stone pyramid-cut -- dates from this era. It was actually the second Egyptian Revival period, the first being in Napoleonic times (due to military campaigns there). A third and a fourth arose when King Tut's treasures toured the world in the 1920s and again in the late 20th century.

This spectacular jewel, which measures 1 7/8 inches tall and half an inch at its widest, may have begun life as an earring. Keeping a pair of those together for more than 150 years is hard. We acquired it at auction in England. Enjoy it on your favorite antique chain or a ribbon of black or malachite green.

There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping (with an equivalent discount for international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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