Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring
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Pre 1930 item# 730488
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If you don't mind being noticed (and envied), this large and spectacular antique ring is meant for you. It's a knuckle-covering 1 1/4 inches tall and 3/4 of an inch wide at leaf level.
The floral motif, as you see, is absolutely enchanting. Marcasite "dewdrops" nestle among the rose petals and their shape is echoed by round embossing on the leaves. Edges and shoulders are lovingly detailed, as well. Naturally this was the creation of a master, namely Vincent Sorrentino, an Italian immigrant who formed Uncas Manufacturing Company in Rhode Island in 1911. The turn of the twentieth century in America attracted many talented artisans and jewelers from Italy, who were instrumental in development of the American fine and costume jewelry industry.
Rivoli-cut marcasites normally smooth after this long, but here they're still sharply pointed for maximum dazzle. Overall condition of the ring is simply lovely: better than the first one of this type that we sold and as fine as the second and third, which were gone within days -- so, if it strikes your fancy, it would be smart not to delay.
The only difference between this and the others I've had is that the "U" (for Uncas) has an arrow through it, rather than an arrow on each side. That indicates it's a little younger, most likely dating from around the mid-20s, rather than pre-WWI. This design being so gorgeous, they probably made it for 10 or 15 years, until the Nouveau manner was considered totally passé. The company continued in business until the 1980s, using a plethora of different marks as time went on (like Stylecraft in the '30s, Stylerite, Glow-Lite and Jewels of Fashion in the '40s, Sorrento and Vincenzo in the '50s and '60s and Corsini in the '70s and '80s).
Present size is about a US 6 - 6.5, easily changed since the back of the shank is plain. From a New York estate, it's been polished somewhat more brightly than I'd have done, but inevitable tarnish will soon darken it again -- and perhaps you prefer a gleaming look, anyway.
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Antique Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Marcasite Rose Ring
Catalogue:
Archives:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Art Nouveau:
Pre 1920 item# 698080
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click for details
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
Sold; thank you!
(Free U.S. Priority Shipping
& Gift-Wrap if Desired)
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If you don't mind being noticed (and envied), this large and spectacular antique ring is meant for you. It's a knuckle-covering 1 1/4 inches tall and 3/4 of an inch wide at leaf level.
The design, as you see, is absolutely enchanting. Marcasite "dewdrops" nestle among the rose petals and their shape is echoed by round embossing on the leaves. Edges and shoulders are lovingly detailed, as well. Naturally this was the creation of a master, namely Vincent Sorrentino, an Italian immigrant who formed Uncas Manufacturing Company in Rhode Island in 1911. The turn of the twentieth century in America attracted many talented artisans and jewelers from Italy, who were instrumental in the development of the American fine and costume jewelry industry. The Uncas "U" between two arrows (their earliest mark) appears inside the ring, along with the Sterling stamp.
Most likely it was made before 1918, since the ring is so Art Nouveau and that style didn't survive World War I. Present size (easily changed) is about a US 4.75. The rivoli-cut marcasites normally smooth after this long, but here they're still sharply pointed for maximum dazzle. Overall condition is simply lovely: better than that of the first ring of this type that we had in the past and as fine as the second, which sold within days -- so, if this strikes your fancy, it would be smart not to delay.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Superb Imperial Russian Enamel 950 Silver Brooch 1890s
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Pre 1900 item# 617416
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This breathtaking antique floral brooch is characteristic of Art Nouveau enameled silver jewels produced in Moscow circa 1885-1900. In Tsarist Russia, enameled jewelry was considered the very best, and fittingly the nation produced enamelists generally considered the world's most accomplished since Byzantine times.
Here, the artist -- working in 950 siver (purer than sterling grade) -- first fashioned a dimensional disk domed toward its scalloped outer edges, then prepared it for enameling in the demanding cloisonne manner by creating cloisonnes (cells) of minute silver wire, twisted and formed into a paisley-like pinwheel motif radiating from a central flowerhead. Finally, the cells were filled with a succession of jewel-toned enamels. Each color requires a different temperature for firing, so it's rare to see so many different hues together in one piece. Here we have five: ruby, garnet, sapphire, turquoise and jade.
Every element of this intricate creation has survived in superlative condition -- almost miraculously, given the delicacy of such pure silver and enamelwork. It measures about 1.5 inches round, plenty big enough to make a major statement, and has both a hinge and open C clasp right for the period. The pinstem would have originally been elongated well beyond the brooch, but at some point that was snipped for safety (not a bad idea, since those extra-long ones can easily draw blood).
The only mark is 950, so this treasure was most likely crafted by a Russian jeweler working outside the country -- perhaps a Victorian-era immigrant who rightly sensed big trouble looming on the horizon and made his way to Europe, America or Canada around the turn of the century. The brooch reached us from a Minnesota estate.
Any good jeweler could easily add a bale, enabling you to wear this is a necklace, as well as a brooch -- or it could simply be pinned to a wide ribbon and worn beautifully as a choker.
BTW, a similar but smaller pendant is offered elsewhere online for $450 and a larger belt buckle is offered at $585, so our price is extremely good value.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shiping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Petite Antique Sterling Filigree Peridot Ring sz 4
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Pre 1920 item# 602334
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This graceful silver filigree ring has the delicacy and ethereal coloration we associate with Edwardian times. It's also of the dainty scale favored then for unmarried women, on whom large jewelry was considered vulgar. It would still be a wonderful choice for a young girl or teenager, although it could be worn by a small woman or as a pinky ring by just about any gal. The face of the jewel is not quite half an inch tall, detailed with flowers, leaves, scrollwork and a lattice-like effect as it joins the shank. Since the band is unornamented, it can easily be sized up or down.
That it's marked Sterling (rather than the later 925) upholds an early 20th century dating. The prettily faceted, spring green stone looks like peridot and may well be real. If not, it's very good crystal, probably Czech. The stone is prong-set and open to the back. Condition of the ring is lovely, requiring high magnification to notice age-appropriate wear (except to the Sterling mark inside). Provenance is a Texas estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Italian Art Nouveau Carved Coral and Silver Necklace
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Pre 1900 item# 510702
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A rare example of Stile Floreale (literally "floral style," the Italian variant of Art Nouveau), this is one of the most gorgeous necklaces I've seen in a long time. The central stone is exquisitely carved with a delightful bird nestling beside a profusion of flower petals. There's even openwork: four piercings that help define the pattern, which shows the asymmetry and flowing lines that characterize Art Nouveau. Measuring about 3/4 inches tall and 1/2 inch wide, the carving is highly dimensional -- rising almost 1/4 of an inch above its rope-twist bezel. Set with it in the elaborately scrolled setting are two coral cabochons, each about 1/2 inch by 3/8. These are also domed, reaching a height of 3/8. That two of the stones show touches of white both demonstrates they're natural and accords with the Art Nouveau taste for unusual gems.
By this period, filigree was no longer formed of individual wires, but an immense amount of handwork was still involved. Die-struck silhouettes were flat and solid, even after a filigree pattern was stamped on. Every element had to be meticulously pierced out, contoured and given definition by an artisan -- who, in this case, detailed the filigree beautifully on both sides. Casting replaced this laborious process long ago, at the sacrifice of the fineness we see in early work.
Thankfully, this jewel has been in the hands of appreciative owners over the past century. Its condition is superb. I see no problems with either the coral or the silver, which is amazing after this long, so think it's unlikely to have lost an original chain. More probably it was first worn on ribbons as a choker or perhaps attached to a strand of coral beads (not a bad idea). A later chain was added sometime after 1920 or so, since the clasp has a spring-ring. The chain is a good one, marked sterling and of an appropriately delicate style. Total length of the necklace is almost 18 inches, to which the central drop adds another inch in length when worn.
From a Texas estate, the jewel may have originated around Turin (Torino), then a thriving city which was the site of important international design exhibitions in Late Victorian times. Artisans in the area were familiar with the likes of William Morris and the British Arts and Crafts movement, as well as the Jugendstil and Sezessionstil of Eastern Europe and other Art Nouveau developments.
There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority Shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Superb Art Nouveau Uncas Sterling Entwined Snakes Ring
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Pre 1920 item# 502303
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The Victorian love of nature and symbolism united to fuel their passion for snake jewelry. The Queen, herself, wore the double serpent form symbolizing eternity as her wedding band. This taste for snake jewelry didn't lessen in Edwardian times, but white metals came into favor - as in the case of this marvelous silver ring. I believe it was crafted before World War I began in 1914, because the Art Nouveau influence remains so strong, and it's the creation of a master - namely Vincent Sorrentino, an Italian immigrant who formed Uncas Manufacturing Company in Rhode Island in 1911. The turn of the twentieth century in America attracted many talented artisans and jewelers from Italy, who were instrumental in developing the American fine and costume jewelry industry. The Uncas "U" and arrow stamp appears inside, along with the Sterling hallmark.
This ring has a nice lot of heft and gorgeous detailing, including twinkling diamond rhinestone eyes. Condition is lovely, showing only age-appropriate amoothing at the back, and present size is about a US 7 - 7.5, which could be altered by a good jeweler, working with that less scaly area in the middle of the shank. My only complaint about it is that someone went mad with polishing recently, so the patina has been disturbed. That will of course return, since the only thing as sure as death and taxes is tarnish - and perhaps you prefer a bright look, as many people do. Provenance is an Illinois estate.
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Victorian Art Nouveau Green Art Glass Pendant Necklace
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Pre 1910 item# 352018
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From a Boston estate, this spectacular antique necklace features a beautfully detailed and highly dimensional pendant measuring about 2 inches by 1 1/2 inches and half an inch deep, crowned by a huge bezel-set cabochon of marbled green Peking or Czech glass. The setting has a floral and foliate pattern that screams Art Nouveau and the metal is silver in color - but tarnish-free, so the surface is apparently of rhodium or chromium, one of those hard-wearing, easy-care metals from the platinum family. The 21-inch chain fitted with a gorgeous filigree clasp seems to be original.
Condition is so fabulous that I thought at first this was a Victorian Revival piece from the 1920s or so, a couple of decades younger than the style suggests. However, after looking closely at the quality of the glass, at minute losses of plating evident under high magnification and at the lovely clasp (not at typical of the Deco period, when simple spring-rings were commonplace), I'm more inclined to date it circa 1900. In this case, it's been marvelously cared for. Regardless of its exact age, this is an enchanting jewel of impressive size.
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Rare Victorian Art Nouveau Silver Clip On Turban Brooch
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Pre 1900 item# 313720
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A whopping 2 3/4" tall and 2 1/4" wide, this rare and wonderful jewel from a European collection was identified as a "turban brooch" by the Dutch dealer who sold it to me. Certainly it would be fabulous on an exotic head-wrap, but equally lovely as a dress or fur clip. Its design, as you see, is quintessentially Art Nouveau. Look at those swirling, sinuous leaf forms, that mysterious central element that seems to be a bursting bud and the lyrical asymmetry of the top quadrant.
If worn as a dress clip, aiming down rather than up, the design reverses and it's just as pretty that way. It would also be fantastic worn on a ribbon as a pendant or choker, clipped to an evening bag or even clipped in your hair. The clip mechanism is still totally sound, allowing you endless possibilities of use. In every respect, the condition of this treasure is remarkable for a piece of repousse work so old (circa 1890s). That's attributable not only to great care but the composition. It's made of hallmarked 800 silver, which is less pure and therefore sturdier than sterling. Based on the 800 mark, origin could be Belgian, Italian, Austro-Hungarian or German. I vote for Belgium, since Brussels was a great center of Art Nouveau craftsmanship, or Italy, where the movement was known as Stile Floreale. The East European version was more angular.
For the purists among us, we've left the (considerable) patina of age in place, but of course the surface could be made mirror-bright if that's your preference.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Big, Fine & Rare Art Nouveau Sterling Swan Brooch
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Pre 1900 item# 303044
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This exquisite hand-made antique pin measures a whopping 2" in each dimension, almost round. Its highly dimensional repousse work shows real artistry and abundant detail, not only of the swan but of surrounding waves, reeds and flowers. Hallmarked sterling and in excellent condition, it likely dates from 1885-1895. The original old hinged pinstem was no doubt shortened for safety when the present safety clasp was added. Provenance is a Las Vegas estate.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Fine Antique Lavaliere: Citrine in Sterling Filigree
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Pre 1910 item# 301326
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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This enchanting necklace pendant is an estate piece, dating from Late Victorian or Edwardian times. Exquisitely hand-crafted with graceful Art Nouveau lines and Etruscan style granulation, it's set with a beautifully faceted citrine of gorgeous color. The lavaliere measures about 1 1/4" by 1", and the oval gemstone is 1/2" by 5/16". Condition is lovely, apart from loss of the original bail and chain (common with antique pendants, as you know). Obviously the present jump ring is a recent addition that should be replaced by a pretty bail.
This is a really great deal, BTW. Elsewhere online I saw for $165 a sterling pendant from the same era - not as pretty as this and set with only GLASS, not a gemstone.
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