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Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Scandinavian (1)

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Scandinavian Early Modernist Carved MOP Cameo Pendant

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Scandinavian: Pre 1930   item# 407049

Scandinavian Early Modernist Carved MOP Cameo Pendant
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Here's the necklace for you, if you want something truly remarkable. This is *not* your mother's cameo, but a wearable work of abstract art. The carving appears to depict a stylized Viking dragon ship and a larger-than-life human figure, presumably a mythological hero or god. Scandinavian origin is highly probable - based not only on the motif and sculptural Modernist style, but also the silver mark. The setting is stamped 830 on its reverse. This was the silver quality standard of most European countries until the 1920s, but most Scandinavian jewelers continued using that stamp even after upgrading the purity to 925 sterling level; by doing so, they avoided extra assay fees.

Whether the mounting is actually 925 or 830, it's certainly hand-made and frames the cameo with finely beaded detail that suggests an early 20th century dating. Later Scandinavian silverwork was noted for simplicity and bold line, as well as large size, whereas this treasure is just an inch tall - the elegant, restrained size appreciated during the Edwardian and transitional period, circa 1905-1920. That the cameo can be both this early and abstract is puzzling until we remember that Cubism emerged in 1908, rocked the world at the Armory Show in 1913 and had run its course by the end of World War I, apart from influencing such new artistic movements as Futurism and Expressionism.

Adding further to the interest and rarity of this jewel, even the mother of pearl from which it's carved is is unusual: much darker and more iridescent than typical white mother-of-pearl, with more pink and purple hues. Its color changes dramatically with the light, as our photo montage demonstrates. This is the type of MOP that comes from the South Seas, so it was no doubt brought home by a seafaring Norseman about a century ago.

The 17" neck chain isn't original, but looks great with the cameo, has a nice weight and is hallmarked for Sterling (stamped 925 on the clasp). The pieces reached us together from - oddly - a Houston, Texas, estate.

Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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