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Fine Antique 1890s Arts and Crafts Cufflinks by GCH Co
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1900 item# 696863
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$125
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Here's an elegant pair of antique cufflinks perfect for gentlemen who prefer simpler jewelry. Their oval, slightly matte-finished faces, which measure 11/16" by 7/16", are adorned only by a refined cutwork edge showing clear Arts and Crafts influence.
We know these links are especially early, because of their "bean" backs typical of the late 19th century.
The metal appears to be either low-karat gold or high-quality rolled gold, since I can't see any surface losses that would indicate plating. In either case, they'd test at around 9k and I can't bring myself to damage them with a file and test acids. The only areas of discoloration are solder marks where the shanks join the backs of the faces. Overall condition is so fine that it's clear these have been worn very seldom. Thus, they'd make a fabulous gift -- and they offer plenty of space for adding monograms.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Arts and Crafts Moonstone Amethyst Brooch
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1920 item# 692412
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
At auction to benefit Netroots Nation
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This charming antique Arts and Crafts brooch came from an estate in North Carolina, which produced lots of gemstones in the late 19th and very early 20th centuries. Hence, we see two truly gorgeous moonstones and a richly colored amethyst in a simple gilt pin that wasn't fashioned by a master. It may well be an apprentice piece made by a budding artisan not yet trusted with precious metals. That it's rustic but lavished with gems of good quality and size makes it one of the most fascinating brooches I've ever seen.
The Arts and Crafts movement celebrated hand-craftsmanship, in reaction to the mass-produced goods of the Industrial Revolution. Ultimately it died of its emphasis on ultra-fine fabrication, which priced most people out of the market for the product lines of top A&C designers. Along the way, however, the movement had the happier result of inspiring creative efforts that resulted in one-of-a-kind treasures like this.
Dating most likely from the Edwardian era (1901 - 1910), based on its daintiness and the airy openwork, the brooch shows Art Nouveau influence in its curvy metalwork, which features a stylized flower centered on the outline of a leaf. It measures not quite 2" long and about 3/8" wide, with moonstones 1/4" round and the amethyst a little smaller. The stones are in beautiful condition and the gilt metal still glitters, showing age-appropriate loss of finish only under high magnification. All the irregularities of form appear original, since I can't find any dings that would have caused distortion. The fastening mechanism is likewise original and right for the period; there's an old open C clasp and the pinstem moves at the hinge with that wonderful side-to-side wobble indicative of great age.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Victorian or Edwardian Suffragette Bar Pin
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Victorian:
Pre 1910 item# 650700
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$135
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This spectacular antique Suffragette bar brooch can also be worn as a necklace, by attaching a chain or ribbon to one or both ends. It features an ornately painted and gilded porcelain cabochon in an intricate openwork setting that appears to be 14k gold-filled. Gold-filled jewels being far more durable than gold-plated, they essentially never wear out and little surface wear can be seen here, even under magnification.
The central medallion features the classic Suffragette color combo: green, white and violet, the first letters of which stood for "Give Women (the) Vote". Green also represented hope; white signified the purity of their intentions; and violet was a reference to dignity ("the royal purple"). It may well have been painted by its original owner, since it doesn't have a "factory" look and china-painting was a popular passtime in this era. If it were merely a representational depiction of a purple flower with green leaves, the Suffragette message might not apply; however, this is a highly stylized motif that makes free use of the Suffragette hues, so its meaning is clear.
Fresh from a Philadelphia estate, the brooch measures 2.5 inches long. An excellent early safety clasp is present. That it appears original dates the jewel firmly to the 1895-1910 period, which was the latter part of the bar pin era. Brooches of this form were popularized by Princess (later Queen) Alexandra, who favored high collars to conceal a scar on her neck. They look just as lovely on today's lapels.
To the Suffragettes' efforts through many decades in the U.K. and U.S., we modern women owe our right to vote. That right was finally extended to all American women in 1920 and to all in Great Britain in 1928. Although forgotten for many years, these jewels have been rapidly gaining value since the star-studded TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much harder to find. This is a piece with great investment potential.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Old European Cut Blue Topaz in Later White Gold Ring
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Period:
Pre 1920 item# 623374
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$345 SALE
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Here's the perfect blue topaz ring for you, if you love the early stones -- mined and cut before introduction of treatments that turn them clownishly vivid, almost turquoise. Because of its subtle water-like hue, this could easily be mistaken for a much more valuable aquamarine. It measures about 10-11 mm by 7-8 mm, so the carat weight is around 3.5.
The gem is of oval shape, but its cut isn't our modern oval. Instead, the shield-shaped table is larger and surrounded by star cuts both on the top and bottom. These make the edges sparkle with stars atop stars. This is a variant of the Old European Cut or Early Brilliant Cut, more typically seen on round stones of the Victorian era.
I understand it had an undistinguished mount of low-carat yellow gold, when the previous owner purchased it at an antiques sale in England. Around 15 years ago, she had it replaced by this sleek white gold solitaire setting, which shows the stone off beautifully. I can't find a mark on the gold, but it must be at least 14k.
The mount still looks new and the stone is also in lovely conditon. Under high magnification, of course you can see age-related wear, but it's minor. Topaz is a hard gem (8 on the Mohrs scale), so it holds it up well. That's probably why the ancient Greeks wore it for strength and as an amulet against harm. Similarly, the Romans thought it could break spells, detect poisons and calm fury. In later Christian belief, blue topaz was linked to uprightness.
Current size of the ring is about a U.S. 4 - 4.25, easily changed by any jeweler since the shank isn't decorated.
Needless to say, this is NOT "London Blue Topaz," which isn't a natural gem. That (like "Sky Blue" and "Swiss Blue") are just trade names indicating the amount of color given artifically to more common white topaz. The treatment, BTW, is irradiation and many people believe valid health concerns are associated with wearing these. For that reason, we never offer the newer ones.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Antique Georgian or Regency Hair Ornament c1800
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 620219
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$200 SALE
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Decorations like this spectacular antique handcrafted hair jewel adorned the tousled topknots, headbands and turbans of neo-Classical gals around the turn of the 19th century: the Late Georgian/Regency period in England and the Napoleonic First Empire period in France.
Nothing could be a more stunning accent for your "up" do today, and you can also wear it as a stickpin. From an estate in the north of England, the jewel measures 3.25 inches long and is crowned by a lavishly textured orb representing the moon -- from which chains and two filigree domes suspend 14 ever-dancing stars ideal for making a display in the ballrooms Jane Austen wrote about.
Celestial motifs, as you know, were highly popular throughout the Georgian period. The Orient was also a strong influence in those days, and ladies of China and Japan had long worn elaborate hair decorations, the loveliest of which had mobile elements.
Condition of this treasure is remarkably fine, given its great age and delicacy. The only flaws I can find are a slight waviness of the shank and minute losses of the rich gilding, most on the shank.
You could look a long, long time before finding anything like this again!
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Pretty 1930s Gold & Tourmaline Pink Crossover Ring
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Deco:
Pre 1940 item# 552453
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$195
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So-called "crossover" rings were introduced at around the start of the Edwardian era and the graceful form was favored for decades, so they're difficult to date. I believe this gorgeous example was crafted in the 1930s, rather than earlier, because the gold is 10k and people made do with less in Depression times. Synthetic stones, although widely used in 1920s Art Deco jewelry, were a particular feature in the years that followed and we have here labatory versions of pink tourmaline and diamond. Synthetic stones, BTW, aren't "fakes" like glass; they're engineered to duplicate the chemical properties of natural stones so faithfully that even a jeweler must perform sophisticated tests to identify them.
From a New York estate, this beauty is about a US size 6.25 - 6.75, easily altered since the back of the shank is unadorned. (We state sizes as a range, because different types of measuring equipment vary up to half a size, as do our fingers with temperature and time of day.) The ring's condition, as you see, is lovely, showing only slight surface wear to the gold under very high magnification. The gems are pristine; I can't find a scuff on them anywhere, so the ring must have been carefully stored away for a very long time. It will be a spectacular accent to all the pink clothing so fashionable now and it looks like it's worth more than twice the price.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Superb Vintage Bergere Goddess Necklace - Mint
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Designer Signed:
Pre 1980 item# 501830
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$135
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Perfect with today's "goddess" fashions and ethereal colors, this marvelous rose quartz necklace dripping with gilt laurel leaves was designed by Karen Reed for Bergere. The labels are still with it, including the original pricetag. We haven't been able to determine when Ms. Reed was with the company (L. Erbert & Pohls Inc. of New York City), but the brand was used only from the 1940s through the 1970s, so the necklace is between 30 and 60 years old. As you know, Bergere jewels were of extremely high quality, sold in such upscale stores as Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor and Marshall Fields.
About 17 inches long, the necklace has seven leaf pendants ranging from one to two inches long, gorgeously detailed even on their reverses. Each leaf is stamped Bergere and obviously surfaced with very high-carat gold. I have no doubt that these pale blush-colored rose quartz chunks are genuine; they're quite cold to the touch, unlike glass, and they're heavy. A few gold beads also feature on the strand and there's an elegant gold push clasp accompanied by a diamond-shaped drop stamped with Karen Reed's signature. Condition is like new and provenance is an East Coast estate.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking.
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Superb Art Nouveau Rose Gold & Green Stone Earrings
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Art Nouveau:
Pre 1900 item# 499597
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$225
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When the 19th century fashionista who first owned these earrings strode into her favorite haunt -- perhaps the Cafe Royale -- how her friends must have gasped with envy! Everything about them was the latest and greatest in the 1890s: the whiplash curves framing the cabochon sets, their vivid dappled green jade color and the rosy metal finish.
Because they've survived more than a century so gorgeously, you can make the same stir. Both cabochon stones -- no doubt the finest Bohemian art glass -- are pristine and it takes magnification to observe light surface wear to the rose gilt, mainly on the reverses. The earrings drop approximately 1 1/4 inches below the ear and are 3/4 of an inch wide at their bases. Provenance is a Florida estate. You don't need to be told what a rare find these are, if you collect antique earrings.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique BELAIS White Gold Aquamarine Ring c 1915
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Edwardian:
Pre 1920 item# 403237
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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On hold.
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Back on the market -- layaway fell through.
It's a red-letter day, whenever we get another ring by the legendary Belais Brothers, the *gods* of early 20th century white gold jewelry! This ring is especially exciting, because it's among their earliest. It probably dates technically from the important "transitional" period between the Edwardian and Art Deco eras but, in its delicacy and refinement, it's totally Edwardian in spirit.
The ring is in exquisite condition, too, and features a beautifully cut oval aquamarine of pale water blue - certainly a natural stone or it would've been colored more assertively. Since soon after 1920, even natural aquas have been routinely heat-treated to produce more vivid coloration, so it's become more rare and wonderful to find one this shade.
We currently have a lovely array of Belais wedding bands, too, with which this be a fabulous engagement ring! It's about a US size 4 now, but could easily be enlarged a size or two, because the back of the carved shank isn't ornamented. Inside it bears the coveted BELAIS mark and is stamped 10K.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Georgian Hardstone Sardonyx Cameo Stickpin in Gold
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 378494
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
Phone: 505.205.1404
$195 SALE
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Greatly detailed and flawless, this small cameo from a Boston estate was hand-carved in high relief from one piece of sardonyx (showing white on a tea-colored ground, when held to light). The jewel measures 3 inches long, with a setting that tests at 10K gold.
Probable dating circa 1770-90 derives from the subject (wearing a typically late 18th century fichu and hairstyle), the textured pattern on the pin and the fact that the cameo is diminutive and of hardstone, rather than shell. Interestingly, the pretty lady's features seem quite real, rather than idealized, so I believe it was produced as a portrait and likely worn by her husband to secure the voluminous neckcloths worn by fashionable men in this era. The wealthiest visitors to Italy, often on their honeymoon trips, did have portrait cameos made there. The generic cameos made later, usually of shell, were to capture the mass market.
Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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