Rare Antique Georgian or Regency Hair Ornament c1800
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 620219
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Decorations like this spectacular antique handcrafted hair jewel adorned the tousled topknots, headbands and turbans of neo-Classical gals around the turn of the 19th century: the Late Georgian/Regency period in England and the Napoleonic First Empire period in France.
Nothing could be a more stunning accent for your "up" do today, and you can also wear it as a stickpin. From an estate in the north of England, the jewel measures 3.25 inches long and is crowned by a lavishly textured orb representing the moon -- from which chains and two filigree domes suspend 14 ever-dancing stars ideal for making a display in the ballrooms Jane Austen wrote about.
Celestial motifs, as you know, were highly popular throughout the Georgian period. The Orient was also a strong influence in those days, and ladies of China and Japan had long worn elaborate hair decorations, the loveliest of which had mobile elements.
Condition of this treasure is remarkably fine, given its great age and delicacy. The only flaws I can find are a slight waviness of the shank and minute losses of the rich gilding, most on the shank.
You could look a long, long time before finding anything like this again!
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Georgian Hardstone Sardonyx Cameo Stickpin in Gold
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 378494
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Greatly detailed and flawless, this small cameo from a Boston estate was hand-carved in high relief from one piece of sardonyx (showing white on a tea-colored ground, when held to light). The jewel measures 3 inches long, with a setting that tests at 10K gold.
Probable dating circa 1770-90 derives from the subject (wearing a typically late 18th century fichu and hairstyle), the textured pattern on the pin and the fact that the cameo is diminutive and of hardstone, rather than shell. Interestingly, the pretty lady's features seem quite real, rather than idealized, so I believe it was produced as a portrait and likely worn by her husband to secure the voluminous neckcloths worn by fashionable men in this era. The wealthiest visitors to Italy, often on their honeymoon trips, did have portrait cameos made there. The generic cameos made later, usually of shell, were to capture the mass market.
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Signed Pair of 2 Superb c1800-30 Bracelets, Very Rare
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 352023
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$365
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These exquisite matching antique bracelets were sold to me as mid-Victorian "wedding bracelets," but the extreme simplicity of their closure argues for a pre-Victorian dating - perhaps even 18th century Georgian, and certainly no later than Regency or William IV. In fact matching bracelets were extremely popular between 1800 and 1830. In the case of these, the "mechanism" is obviously early - consisting only of three keyhole-shaped slots and a teensy but powerful prong, with a slide that adds extra security. Frankly, I've never before seen one of these prong-type bracelets with its slide still in place, let alone TWO of them!
The charming decorative motif, as you see, is an intricate floral and foliate design. The slightly rosy golden metal appears to be gold-filled (thus far more durable than if it were merely gilded). Because the bracelets adjust to fit three positions, they'd be a marvelous gift for a girl who's still growing - something she could enjoy now and forever. They're pleasantly lightweight and easy for anyone to wear. At their smallest, they'd fit child-sized wrists and, when fastened in the outer slot, most small- to average-sized women would be able to wear them.
From a Boston area estate, these bracelets are in astounding condition relative to age. Width is about 7/8" inches and the shape is slightly oval, which is really far more suitable to the human arm than round. Not only wonderfully wearable, these are true investment jewels you'll never regret owning, especially at this incredibly low price for a such a rare matching pair. They're even signed, BTW, bearing the mark "W G W & Co" -- but unfortunately I haven't yet been able to find out anything about the maker. We recently offered a single bracelet very much like these at $225 and it didn't have a slide, so our price for this pair is an exceptional value.
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Rare c1800 Regency Cameo & Gilt Silver Filigree Pendant
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 196003
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This extraordinary hand-crafted jewel apparently dates from the Regency period. Technically, perhaps it's Late Georgian, since the Regency didn't officially begin until 1811; however, the era is generally considered to span 1790-1830. This was a time of youth and gaiety - when George IV, while still Prince of Wales, built his fabulous palace at Brighton. Both the timeframe and styles closely paralleled those of the French Empire period and this jewel could be from either side of the Channel. A hallmark is present, but no longer legible.
The first shell cameos were carved circa 1805, during these halcyon days described by Austen and Thackeray. In 1806. the appearance in London of the Elgin Marbles touched off a Grecian craze. I see that influence strongly in this cameo. Notice the classical hairstyle and head-dress so typical of Regency portraits, as well as the relative severity of the profile (nothing at all like the pert little noses seen in post-1850 cameos).
Regency dating is suggested to me not only by the cameo's subject, probably meant to represent an ancient queen or goddess, but also its unusual and elaborate framing in a paisley-like teardrop shape showing the Orientalist influence pervasive after Napoleon's Egyptian campaign of 1802. The metalwork, of vermeil (gilded silver) filigree, is almost as beautiful on the back as the front and silver content tested high, a clear indication of quality when we remember gold was extremely scarce until after the 1849 discoveries. Vermeil wirework was particularly popular in 18th century France, then banned in the early 19th century upon discovery that mercury used in the process of creating "silver gilt" caused craftsmen to go blind. A safer technique was developed much later.
Measuring about 1 5/8" by 7/8" and in remarkable condition - showing age-appropriate surface wear but no evident damage, despite the delicacy of its construction - this jewel is like nothing I've ever seen before. I doubt we'll see another like it soon.
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Stunning Georgian Gilt Hardstone Intaglio Brooch
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 127815
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$315 SALE
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Our impressive intaglio brooch features the head of a Trojan War hero (perhaps Achilles), unless I miss my guess. Remember the phrase "long-haired Achaeans" from Homer? Those look to me like curls at the base of his helmet!
As a Greek Revival piece, the jewel likely dates from the Late Georgian or Regency period. It was in 1806, when Lord Elgin brought pieces of the Parthenon from Athens to London, that the English passion for the purity of Greek design was ignited. Like the intaglio, exquisitely carved from extremely dark amber, the construction of this piece has a very early look: It's built up architecturally, in layers, with abundant detail. There's a small hook on the crossbar at the back, for hanging a watch, another jewel or chatelaine items.
I'm not sure about the underlying metal, since most of the rose gold gilding remains intact, but it's most likely silver since that's the color of the clasp hook. The other side of the clasp is absolutely fascinating: the pin hinge is encased in a sort of tulip form. There are signs that the pin stem has been shortened; it's blunter than you'd expect and under magnification looks a little ragged on the end.
The intaglio measures a little larger than 1/2" square and its condition is excellent. Overall size of the brooch is about 1-3/4" by 1-1/4" and its condition is very good. Please note that the left ball-shaped cap is missing on the long horizontal piece. No doubt a competent jeweler could easily replace it. If the brooch were perfect, of course it would cost a great deal more, given the superlative quality of the intaglio.
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Rare Georgian or Regency Stickpin of God Mercury Hermes
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 111283
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$120 SALE
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This very striking antique stick pin features the head of the god Mercury (Hermes in Greek parlance), who wore a winged hat and served as messenger of the gods, bringer of dreams and patron of travelers (including those he escorted to the Undergloom).
Items with themes from Greco-Roman mythology are tricky to date, since there have been several major Classical Revivals in the past few hundred years. Because the god's image isn't idealized in the Victorian manner and the pin's construction suggests an early dating, I have to conclude it's either Georgian or Regency (18th or very early 19th century), used to secure the voluminous voluminous neckcloths worn by fashionable men in this era. The stylized profile anticipates Art Deco, but the pin's construction isn't right for that dating, not is the scale (about half an inch tall). The material appears to be gilt bronze and the detailing is marvelous. Condition, as you see, is exceptional for its age. The jewel will add an elegant note of antiquitiy on your lapel, tie, scarf or hat.
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