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Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver (59)

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Period (2)

Pre Victorian (5)

Victorian (8)

Edwardian (4)

Art Nouveau (14)

Arts and Crafts (6)

Deco (8)

Retro (3)

Modernism (6)

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Ornate Antique Art Deco Onyx Sterling Ring by J J White

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Deco: Pre 1930   item# 1136479

Ornate Antique Art Deco Onyx Sterling Ring by J J White
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$185.
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Simple elegance never goes wrong, but there are times when most of us want to go bolder. That impulse was well understood by the J.J. White Manufacturing Company. Their ravishing jewels have tempted women to gild the lily for more than a century.

Actual gilding is often part of the plot, as in this ring's floral shoulders washed with yellow gold. Further layers of opulence derive both from the detailed and dimensional setting and from the fancy-cut stone, a tablet shape surmounted by a vertical dome. Above all this rises a crowning arc of pastes in silver.

You don't have to see many of the firm's creations to recognize them at a glance, because they're so artfully constructed and so lavish that it seems their designers were barely getting warmed up at the point when others would stop.

Given the endless fascination that these jewels provide, it's no wonder the company lasted from 1896 into modern times. This particular piece dates from the 1920s and bears the usual initial "W" in an inverted triangle, as well as a "Sterling" hallmark (rather than the later 925).

Although it's a dainty ring -- about a US size 5 -- it isn't a bit flimsy, weighing in at 3.2 grams. Condition, as you see, is excellent relative to age and provenance is an Ohio estate. Sizing up or down can be easily done without damage, because the shank is plain at the rear.

There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Modernist Kinetic Spinner Ring circa 1960s

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Modernism: Pre 1970   item# 1115617

Modernist Kinetic Spinner Ring circa 1960s
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$130.
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This very striking mid-century modernist ring may well be one of a kind. Although unmarked, it's certainly hand-made, being roughly cast and imprecise in form. The width of the shank, for instance, wanders slightly, and the stalk-like structure that supports the green sphere flares outward a bit more on one side than the other.

The spinning orb, which also slides from side to side, is about a quarter-inch round and rises about half an inch above the ring's base. It appears to be made of highly polished jade or agate, since the surface isn't abraded as glass would be after this long. The metal tarnishes and polishes like silver, so we can safely assume considerable silver content, even if perhaps less than sterling grade.

Obviously this is a ring that would look great on either a man or a woman; it's for anyone with a taste for the bold and truly unusual. Current size is about a US 7.5, easily altered up or down by any competent jeweler. Age could be as early as the 1950s or as late as the early 1970s; condition is lovely; and provenance is an East Coast estate.

There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Moonstone Sterling Necklace on Paperclip Chain

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1920   item# 1114707

Antique Moonstone Sterling Necklace on Paperclip Chain
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$135 SALE. Was $155.
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Here's a little slice of heaven: a bewitching crescent moon to wear at your throat, set with a luminous moonstone.

As you probably know, moonstones were greatly favored by jewelry designers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They were ideal for the cabochon cuts and simple bezel settings that characterized Arts and Crafts style. The very clean lines of this jewel anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve in Edwardian times, but its dainty scale identifies it with the earlier era. It was undoubtedly made for a young lady, since large jewelry was considered vulgar on unmarried women until standards relaxed after World War I. Its paperclip chain -- an extremely feminine, curvy version in this case -- is also typically Edwardian and transitional.

This ethereally beautiful necklace is 15 inches long, with the central moon measuring about 1 3/8 inches from horn to horn. The stone is blue-white and undoubtedly genuine, without the abrasions we'd see on glass. Overall condition of the jewel is lovely. Only light surface wear is evident under high magnification, along with a bit of age patina on the reverse that survived someone's recent polishing (not mine, I emphasize to the purists among us). That it's stamped simply "Sterling" suggests American origin, because a panoply of hallmarks appear on most English sterling silver. Provenance is a Deep South estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on internatinoal delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Lovely Victorian Pearl and Pyrite Pendeloque Earrings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 1114301

Lovely Victorian Pearl and Pyrite Pendeloque Earrings
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$525 SALE. Were $650.
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These spectacular antique pearl earrings from an English estate dangle almost 2 inches below the ear and are highly dimensional. Minor variations between the two attest to hand-craftsmanship -- most likely in Spain or Portugal, known for jewels of ornately worked silver, set with colorless gems. Pieces of this type were eagerly collected by British travelers to southern Europe. It's easy to imagine these earrings as a honeymoon gift for a young bride, whose husband delighted in how the gleaming drops swayed in the Mediterranean moonlight.

Adding extra sparkle, both upper and lower domed elements of the setting are accented with pyrites (often called marcasites, which are chemically the same but too soft to use as gems). The silverwork, also lavished with beaded detail, is thick and sculptural Above, it's fashioned into leaves and the drops form flower petals framing two sizeable, lustrous pearls. The stones were represented to me as natural sea pearls and I believe them to be, since pearls weren't cultured until around 1900. They seem to be full rounds, not halves, nestling into silver cups that protrude from the back.

Probable dating of the earrings is no later than 1880, yet their condition is superb. Even the lever-back fasteners appear original. If they aren't, the earrings would have hung from wires and are even older. Pendeloque (pear-shaped) drop earrings have been with us since the late 18th century, retaining popularity throughout Victorian times, and the fully closed backs and other details of construction here are more Georgian than Victorian. The Georgian traditions did hang on longer in Spain and Portugal than elsewhere, though, so it's really impossible to be certain whether these are early or late 19th century.

With apologies to the purists among us, I broke my usual hands-off rule and gave these a light cleaning before the photographs were taken. Tarnish is returning, so the silver content is clearly high. We can't be precise about that,in the absence of markings; it would be a pity to damage the surface with test chemicals.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount for our international customers) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Lovely Antique Art Nouveau Lady Portrait Brooch c 1890s

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 1113816

Lovely Antique Art Nouveau Lady Portrait Brooch c 1890s
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$195 SALE. Was $245.
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Authentic Victorian Art Nouveau "lady portrait" jewels have become so scarce that even well-made replicas are soaring in value, so we're delighted to present this treasure. It's an unusual example of the form, being crafted in heart shape.

This is a truly spectacular jewel -- highly dimensional, large (about 2 inches x 1.75 inches) and beautifully detailed with floral and foliate shapes surrounding the lady with the flowing hair.

Provenance is a Michigan estate and condition, as you see, is remarkably fine. There's some loss of silver on the high points, which is inevitable with a plated piece after so long. You could of course have it replated, but the color variation has its own charm. Findings are correct for the period: an open C clasp and typical late 19th century hinge. The pinstem would originally have been longer, but most have been shortened through the years for safety's sake.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery). Beautiful gift-wrap is also free on request and, obviously, this would be a very romantic present. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Agate Silver Ring by Clark and Coombs c1900 His or Hers

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1910   item# 1113588

Agate Silver Ring by Clark and Coombs c1900 His or Hers
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$195 SALE. Was $245.
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& Gift-Wrap, if Desired) 

This spectacular antique ring features a beautifully translucent large cabochon of dendritic agate -- the type with dark inclusions resembling ice crystal, also called mocha stone. It's collet-set in a sleek Arts & Crafts mounting of sterling silver that will please either a gentleman or a lady who favors bold forms. The ring's face is large, but not overpowering (not quite 3/4" tall)and stylized decorations on each side show the slight variations that demonstrate hand-craftsmanship.

These so-called "fancy" agates were highly prized in Late Victorian and Edwardian times. They suited the taste for unusual gems that we see in both Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewelry, along with their emphasis on artistic design and meticulous workmanship. The new ideal was for everything to be special and unique in some ways, as opposed to the mass-produced goods of the Industrial Revolution. Ultimately this worthy movement died of its own good taste. The insistence on ultra-fine fabrication priced most people out of the market.

The maker in the present instance, Clark & Coombs of Providence, R.I., is a perfect illustration of that. Established in 1862, C & C had a national reputation for gold and silver rings by the early 20th century and tried to carry on without further mechanization, but was unable to compete effectively. Although the firm still exists, it was taken over by new management and modernized for greater output after World War II.

It's wonderful when we find an example of their exquisite early creations. Most likely this ring dates from between 1900 and 1910. While the basic shape of the setting was used in the 19th century, the very clean lines of its ornamentation anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve after the turn of the century. Its interior bears a "Sterling" hallmark and the C&C stamp used until 1915 (two Cs in triangles around a stylized ampersand tilting right).

Based on all these facts, it really isn't stretching a point to say that this ring has historical importance. It's also distinguished by being in near-mint condition, despite great age. Provenance is a Pacific Northwest estate and the current size, about a U.S. 8 - 8.5, can be easily altered, since the back of the shank is plain.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Edwardian Art Nouveau Silver Hair Comb

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 1113389

Edwardian Art Nouveau Silver Hair Comb
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$75 SALE. Was $115.
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& Gift-Wrap, if Desired) 

The curvy lines of this pretty hair comb show Art Nouveau influence, but here the exuberance of the Victorian era has given way to Edwardian restraint, both in form and size. Its refinement and delicacy suggest a circa 1910 dating.

The tines of this hair jewel are of flexible steel, while the top is fixed and sturdy. Hallmarks aren't present, so it probably isn't sterling, but high silver content is likely since it shines up beautifully with a jeweler's cloth. Age-appropriate surface wear is visible only under high magnification. Size is about 3 3/8 by 1 1/2 inches.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Rare Antique Sterling Silver Suffragette Bar Brooch

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Edwardian: Pre 1910   item# 1109825

Rare Antique Sterling Silver Suffragette Bar Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$145
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Very finely crafted with ornate ends and edges, this antique bar pin is of sterling silver (unmarked but tested), set with sparkling amethyst, peridot and diamond pastes. That it's sterling is quite remarkable for a Suffragette item; typically these are either totally costume or top end, made of gold and gems.

Complementing the beautiful metalwork, the stones here are excellent pretenders, especially the 16 fancy-cut amethysts channel-set in groups of four. Every stone appears original. Another nod to unusual quality is the early safety lever fitted on the C clasp. This is a type that dates from the 19th century, as is the hinge with its slight sideways wobble. The pinstem, originally elongated, was snipped to a less hazardous length at some time, as is common with brooches this old. Either Late Victorian or Edwardian, it reached us from a Florida estate. Likeliest dating would be 1900-1910.

Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery. Gift-wrap is always free when desired. Thanks for looking!



Mesmerizing Antique Arts and Crafts Blue Spinel Ring

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1940   item# 1038613

Mesmerizing Antique Arts and Crafts Blue Spinel Ring
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$285 SALE. Was $345.
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& Gift-Wrap, if Desired 

This antique blue spinel ring has a hypnotic effect, like gazing through the sheen of sunlight into deep, deep water. It's more than an inch tall, about 3/8 of an inch wide and stunningly faceted. Getting photos was a major challenge, due to the gem's mirror-like luster and elaborate marquise cut.

Many people mistakenly believe spinels are synthetics, when actually they're among the hardest and loveliest natural gemstones. In their most common red version, they've been frequently confused with rubies. For instance, the famous "Black Prince's Ruby" in the British Imperial State Crown turned out to be a spinel. Being blue, this is a rare spinel to begin with, and its ultra-rich color and size add to the rarity.

Another fascinating attribute of this ring is the convergence of Arts and Crafts and Art Deco style currents. The setting, appropriately for such a fancy-shaped stone, is simple, graceful and more than likely hand-made. Ornamented with only a couple of silver beads and a bit of engraving on the sides, the mount has a distinctly Arts and Crafts look. However, an early Arts and Crafts piece probably would have a plain cabochon stone, rather than a towering geometric shape suggesting Art Deco. Based on the blend of design influences, I believe it was made around 1930, so it's already antique by American 75-year standards.

Condition of the jewel is lovely. It takes a 10X loupe to notice any flaws at all and, even then, signs of age-appropriate wear are very minor. Markings inside the band are "Sterling Shank" and a maker's mark I haven't been able to interpret. It's a "V" over a horizontal diamond shape. If that means anything to you, please let us know.



The ring came from a New York estate, where the seller noted, "Blue spinel brings peace." I don't know about that, but this one is sure to bring a lot of pleasure.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Art Nouveau Gilt Silver Lady Amid Flowers Buckle

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 1037954

Art Nouveau Gilt Silver Lady Amid Flowers Buckle
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$95. Was $135.
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This highly ornate antique belt or sash buckle is a showpiece of Art Nouveau design, featuring a beautiful lady amid and crowned with flowers. There's elaborate scrollwork, too, and all the repousse work was done in very high relief to enrich the design further with shadows and highlights.

Dating to the Late Victorian era, circa 1890-1900, the buckle measures about 3" x 1 3/4" when fastened and its brackets will accommodate a sash or belt up to 1 1/8" wide. Imagine its impact at the waist of your favorite evening gown or a wedding dress -- although you'll certainly wear it on lesser occasions, too.

The metal beanth the gilding appears to be silver of less than sterling grade. (It isn't heavy enough to be pot metal.) Condition is lovely, showing only minor loss of gilt finish. The eye of the fastener (but not the hook) seems to have been reattached at some point, possibly replaced. The buckle is very sturdy and wearable now, but of course our price reflects the old repair. This would be a great deal more expensive if perfect, because authentic Nouveau "lady portrait" jewels are getting very scarce and valuable.

Likely origin, based on style and quality of craftsmanship, is French or Belgian, although the buckle reached us from a Chicago collection.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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