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Superb Neoclassical Silver Filigree Brooch circa 1800
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 707317
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$400 SALE
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This is an insane markdown on one of our most spectacular jewels, and it won't last long. If you're been eying this wonderful piece for a while, now is definitely the time to buy it...
Among the most remarkable jewels of antiquity are those that feature fine filigree, a technique that developed in Greece during the Classical period (circa 480-330 BCE), spread with trade and Alexander's conquests in the Hellenistic era and was likewise popular among the Romans and Byzantines. Since ancient times, whenever a Classical Revival has arisen, filigree has been part of the picture -- most importantly around the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. It not only suited tastes then, but also the era's finances, severely strained after decades of war. By processing precious gold and silver into almost microscopic wires, jewelers could make their materials stretch a lot farther. Similarly, cutwork was favored. Of course these elegant techniques required a great deal more expert labor, but that was the cheap part in those days.
A finely handcrafted jewel like this one from the Georgian or Regency period simply couldn't be recreated now, at any price. The skills were lost more than a hundred years ago, when filigree patterns began to be stamped by machine and only hand-finished. Today's examples are nothing like the cobweb of complex wirework that weaves these few solid pieces of silver together: an outer ring with radiant points that suggest sunrays and a sculptural central medallion with a wide bead-edged bezel and cutwork image of a charioteer and his horse. The breathtaking intricacy of detail is impossible to capture fully in photographs.
For all its airiness and seeming fragility, this is one tough piece of jewelry. It's survived two centuries intact, because of its amazing craftsmanship and what must be yards of the most minute wire imaginable, worked layer upon layer. If you're thinking it's worthy of a museum display, you're absolutely right.
Adding further interest is the fact that was assayed by a system called Lothige, based on sixteenths, which was used for early silver in Teutonic lands. Pure silver, almost never seen, was marked 16 loth, 15 was roughly equivalent to our sterling and sturdier articles ranged in purity from 12 to 14 loth, with 13 being typical. On this exquisite brooch, the loth mark looks like a number 1 with small stick-figure legs and the numeral 3. It forms a tiny dimple on the reverse, which blends into the pebble-detailed bit of "ground" on which the chariot rolls. All loth marked silver is antique, given that the Austrian Empire switched to decimal-based hallmarks when Hungary was given dual billing in the 1860s and the German states soon followed suit, after their unification.
Silver marks are on the pinstem, too, but I haven't been able to interpret these and it doesn't seem original. While the simple open C clasp is of the right scale and age, both the hinge and pinstem must have been added later. On close inspection, there's evidence that a wider T hinge was replaced by the sort that appeared around 1860. The pinstem is also of that period and looks to have been snipped from greater length, probably in the early 20th century (when women cast off heavy undergarments and extra-long points became dangerous). The fastening mechanism works fine and will never be seen when the brooch is worn. Of course our price does reflect the alterations. It would be well over $1,000 if perfect.
Measuring an impressive 2.25 inches round, this is a truly rare treasure and an ultimate Power Jewel suitable for a woman of great confidence and presence. It reached us from a West Coast estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Exquisite Antique Edwardian Frosted Rock Crystal Pin
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Edwardian:
Pre 1920 item# 700857
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$110 SALE (Reduced from $130)
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Jewels of this type are so lovely that they're often copied now -- and even the replicas are valuable -- but here we have the real thing, around 100 years old and yet in splendid condition. Even under high magnification, few signs of surface wear are apparent except on its reverse, which has the old open C clasp indicative of great age.
The marquise-shaped stone is carved at the back in a radiant sunburst pattern, topped with a glittering diamond paste and set in an elegant frame with beaded details and accents and prongs that suggest feather fans. The dazzling white-on-white look was a great favorite in the elegant Edwardian era and into early Art Deco years. We can tell this is an early example, because of its curvy form (as opposed to Deco's straight lines) and because it predates the safety catch introduced around 1920. Also, later variations were more often made of molded camphor glass than carved crystal. Since the metalwork shows no tarnish that would indicate silver, it's probably rhodium, a hard-wearing mineral in the platinum family. The pinstem is plated, revealing hints of brass beneath, as is typical of brooches from this era. Size is 1.5 by .75 inches and provenance is a Midwestern estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Antique German Art Deco Variscite in Sterling Ring
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1930 item# 698877
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$185
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This is among the most fascinating antique rings I've ever seen, because of its extremely unusual stone. I had to look it up in my gems book, having never run across one before. Like the ring, the stone is German -- taking its name from the Latin "Variscia" (now called Vogtland, a region including Bavaria, Saxony, Thuringia and part of the Czech Republic). It's distinctive for its blue-green color and white veins. The type found in Utah is darker, often with spiderwebbing and brown matrix, but this stone is pure aqua and white -- gorgeous with the silver mount framing it here.
The ring is an ultimate Art Deco design, certainly dating from the 1920s. Its dramatic pattern of sunrays forming pyramid shapes at each side shows Egyptian Revival influence and is finely adorned with millegrain detail and sparkling rivoli-cut marcasites. Sunrays repeat on fancy prongs at the top and bottom of the face, which measure 3/4 of an inch tall: large, without being overwhelming. Including those elaborate shoulders visible from the front, it's about an inch wide.
A great deal of age patina is in place and I haven't disturbed it. Naturally you can make the silver shine like the dickens, if you want to. Condition of the engraving and stones is wonderfully crisp. The points of the marcasites haven't even smoothed, so the ring can't have been worn much. The only flaw I note on close examination is that the mounting sits a bit lower on one side than the other. The stone may have fallen out at one time and been reset a little crooked. Any jeweler could quickly put that right, if it bothers you, but you really don't notice at a glance. Marks are Germany -- neither East nor West, which assures us of great age -- and Sterling, rather than the later 925. Present size is about a US 4, easily altered since the back of the shank isn't ornamented. Provenance is a Chicago area estate.
This is a very sturdy and sophisticated jewel that can be worn to stunning effect by either a man or a woman.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Arts and Crafts Fancy Agate Ring Sz 8 Signed
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1910 item# 698046
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$210
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This spectacular antique ring features a beautifully translucent large cabochon of dendritic agate -- the type with dark inclusions resembling ice crystal, sometimes called mocha stone. It's collet-set in a sleek Arts & Crafts mounting of sterling silver that will suit either a gentleman or a lady who favors bold forms. The ring's face is large, but not overpowering (not quite 3/4" tall)and stylized decorations on each side show the slight variations that indicate hand-craftsmanship.
As you know, fancy agates were prized in Late Victorian and Edwardian times. They suited the taste for unusual gems that's so evident in Arts and Crafts jewelry, along with high standards of artistry and workmanship. The new ideal was for everything to be special and unique in some ways, as opposed to the mass-produced goods of the Industrial Revolution. Ultimately the movement died of its emphasis on ultra-fine fabrication, which priced most people out of the market for the product lines of top A&C designers.
The maker in this instance, Clark & Coombs of Providence, R.I., is a good illustration of that. Established in 1862, C & C had a national reputation for gold and silver rings by the early 20th century and tried to carry on without further mechanization, but was unable to compete effectively. Although the firm still exists, it was taken over by new management and modernized for greater output after World War II.
It's wonderful when we find an example of their exquisite early creations. Its interior bears a "Sterling" hallmark and the C&C stamp used until 1915 (two Cs in triangles around a stylized ampersand tilting right). Most likely this ring dates from between 1905 and 1910. While the basic shape of the setting was used in the 19th century, the very clean lines of its ornamentation anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve in Edwardian days. Provenance is a Pacific Northwest estate; condition is excellent; and the current size, about a U.S. 8 - 8.5, would be easily altered, since the back of the shank is plain.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Amazing Triple Lady Portrait Art Nouveau Amethyst Ring
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Art Nouveau:
Pre 1910 item# 695981
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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Want a ring astounding enough to stop people in their tracks? Here it is! No doubt you've seen the tall Late Victorian rings with three stones in a stack --- well, this not only has the stones (round purple amethyst cabochons), but has them set in a veritable totem pole of Art Nouveau lady portrait heads. I never saw anything like it before and don't expect to see another.
It's bound to be a custom-crafted jewel and it's a whopper: nearly two inches tall by an inch wide. Size is large, too (about a US 8.5), so it was made to wear over gloves or on the central finger. Cutting it down shouldn't be a problem, if you want to do that, since the shank isn't decorated. It may have been sized once before, to judge by a small dimple at the very back.
The only mark is sterling (partially worn away), which is right for an American jewel of the period, but French influence is strongly evident and makes sense, given that the ring was found in a New Orleans estate. Because someone recently gave it a polish (a bit more brightly than I would've done, but patina will soon build up again), it's easy to judge the condition, which is lovely. There's very little surface wear. Obviously the ring has been cared for like the rare treasure it is. As you know if you collect Art Nouveau, lady portrait jewelry is growing so scarce that even good Revival pieces can command steep prices. That the stones are cabs and of slightly irregular shape adds Arts and Crafts interest, too.
We state ring sizes as approximations, due to the vagaries of different sizing equipment. Depending on whether the sizer is metal, wood or plastic, the result can vary up to half a size. Also, our fingers vary by that much, with time of day and temperature (smaller early in the morning or when it's chilly). This should comfortably fit 8.25, 8.5 or 8.75.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare 1830 William IV Coronation Lapel Pin Enamel Silver
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1837 VR item# 691596
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$195
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So your ancestors weren't on the royal guest list in 1830? Well, it's still not too late to inherit this extraordinary antique enameled silver pin.
Given the high quality of the jewel, it was most likely produced in a very small quantity for the new monarch's guests at some special event marking his succession. I've seen none like it before and don't expect to see another.
As 1830 was the year when King George IV died and his brother William IV succeeded him, it's certainly a commemorative jewel. Adding to its rarity is the fact that the actual coronation didn't take place until almost a year later in September of 1931, which is the date seen on the usual souvenirs available to the public: medals, tankards, plates, jugs and such
This brooch has further historic interest as a gorgeous example of the enameler's art -- which faded with advances in gem-cutting. Ornately enameled settings were essential to important jewelry, until more brilliantly faceted stones could command attention on their own. Here see a wide array of enamel colors -- royal blue, golden yellow, orange and green -- which required a great deal of expertise to combine. All remain vivid and losses are slight. The brooch was obviously prized and well cared for. We obtained it from an estate in England, naturally enough.
Measuring almost 1 1/4" (3.17 cm) round, it has the open C clasp, T hinge and sturdy elongated pinstem one expects in a piece of such antiquity. It would be splendid lapel accent and conversation piece for any collector, whether man or woman.
There's no charge for insured U.S. Priority shipping (with an equivalent discount for on international delivery). Beautiful gift wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Arts and Crafts Sterling Crescent Moon Brooch
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1920 item# 685791
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$175
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The crescent moon motif has featured in jewels since antiquity, but reached its height of refinement in Victorian times and immediately thereafter. This splendid example of the form unites the romantic Victorian impulse with fine Arts & Crafts workmanship and early 20th century modernism.
The result is a brooch that's as much a delight to touch as to see. The sterling moon is sleek and shapely, concave below and convex above, where an applied halo of 12 large diamond pastes rings the outer edge with brilliance. The wonderful old stones, so much more fiery than our modern rhinestones, are set in tall collets that flare from narrow bases to wide notched tops. These gracefully constructed little silver towers show the minor differences in shape and size that attest to hand-craftmanship, as do slight irregularities of the seam between the two parts. Also signifying quality, there's a good heft to this pin, relative to its size (about 1.5 by .75 inches). Being so dimensional -- more than a fourth of an inch thick -- it seems bigger.
Condition is lovely, showing only age-appropriate surface wear under magnification, and provenance is a New England estate. The clasp is an safety that appears original; otherwise, the dating could be up to a decade earlier than 1920. Although the Edwardian era technically ended in 1910, much of the style persisted through a transitional period until Art Deco became dominant.
Quite a bit of patina remains around the clasp and hinge, as well as around the stones, but someone has given the rest of it a recent polish. The only mark is the word Sterling, as is right for the period. Our modern "925" began to be widely seen in the 1930s.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery). Gift-wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Fine Victorian Crescent Moon Brooch of Silver & Paste
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Victorian:
Pre 1900 item# 602445
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This splendid antique brooch of 900-hallmarked silver is of a style enjoyed through much of the Victorian era -- but particularly in the 1850s and 1860s, when the construction and gala opening of the Suez Canal drew Europeans' attention to such Middle Eastern design motifs as the crescent. It may even have been fashioned in Egypt, since the 900 silver mark was commonly used there (as well as in some nations of Continental Europe).
Beautifully hand-made, the brooch features 11 faceted diamond paste stones (probably Bohemian) that are graduated in size. Their sparkle is extended to the very tips of the crescent by applied wirework that resembles granulation, creating a pattern of silver dots also declining in size. Both the pastes and these details are recessed within elevated edges. There are also elevated outlines enclosing each paste. A lot more dimensionality and quality than we'd expect are packed into this beauty, which measures 1 7/8 inches tall and about 3/4 inch wide.
The sturdy old T-hinge here is of a type often superceded by the 1850s the tube style(in common use by 1870), so I feel extremely confident in a mid-19th century dating for this jewel. The pin stem (also very thick and sturdy) remains elongated, as was right for the period, but shows evidence of having been shortened from an even greater length (not a bad idea to avoid drawing blood). The clasp is of course the open C used until the earliest safety clasps came along at the end of the 19th century.
Condition of the jewel is excellent, despite the delicacy of high-purity silver. It takes high magnification to notice the few teensy dings along the edges. There's very little wear to the pastes, because they're recessed and carefully tipped in their compartments as gems would be.
Provenance is an English estate and our price represents excellent value. I notice online a very similar brooch, a bit smaller, offered at $375.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Arts & Crafts Blue Spinel Ring - Hypnotic Gem
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1940 item# 601230
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$285 SALE (Reduced from $335)
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This antique blue spinel ring has a mesmerizing effect, like gazing through the sheen of sunlight into deep, deep water. It's more than an inch tall, about 3/8 of an inch wide and stunningly faceted. Getting photos was a major challenge, due to the gem's mirror-like luster and elaborate marquise cut. Being blue, it's a rare spinel to begin with, and its ultra-rich color and size add to the rarity.
Many people mistakenly believe spinels are synthetics, when actually they're among the hardest and loveliest natural gemstones. In their most common red version, they've been frequently confused with rubies. For instance, the famous "Black Prince's Ruby" in the British Imperial State Crown turned out to be a spinel.
Another fascinating aspect of this ring is the convergence of Arts & Crafts and Art Deco style currents. The setting, appropriately for such a fancy-shaped stone, is simple, graceful and more than likely hand-made. Ornamented with only a couple of silver beads and a bit of engraving on the sides, the mount has a distinctly Arts and Crafts look. However, an early Arts & Crafts piece would have a plain cabochon stone, rather than a towering geometric shape suggesting Art Deco.
Based on the blend of design influences, I believe it was made around 1930, so it's already antique by American 75-year standards. It came to us from a New York estate, where the seller noted, "Blue spinel brings peace." I don't know about that, but this one is sure to bring a lot of pleasure.
Condition of the jewel is lovely. It takes a 10X loupe to notice any flaws at all and, even then, signs of age-appropriate wear are very minor. Markings inside the band are "Sterling Shank" and a maker's mark I haven't been able to interpret. It's a "V" over a horizontal diamond shape. If that means anything to you, please do let me know.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique c 1920 Necklace Sterling Pink Tourmaline Paste
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1920 item# 599701
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$215
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This exquisite antique necklace is an important transitional piece showing sleek Art Deco geometry (an influence on jewelry from around 1910), along with the delicate refinement of Edwardian design and even -- in its all-around "fringe" of jeweled drops -- the archeological mood carried forward from Late Victorian times.
Purchased by its former owner at a Swiss antiques shop about 40 years ago, the necklace features metalwork of hallmarked Sterling silver and beautifully faceted pink tourmaline pastes from Eastern Europe, where Bohemia (Czechoslovakia after World War I) had been known for superb glass since the medieval era.
Eighteen inches long, a graceful length for everyone, it weighs more than 24 grams, so there's nothing flimsy about it. Its heft makes it drape beautifully, of course, and the heavenly medium pink color of the crystals will flatter any complexion. While the necklace could have been fashioned before the First World War -- making it technically Austro-Hungarian -- we're dating it slightly afterward, based on the spring-ring clasp.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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