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Fine Signed Mexican Sterling Necklace Bracelet Earrings
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Mexican:
Pre 1950 item# 596253
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$360 SALE
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The value of vintage Mexican sterling silver is rocketing, as you know, so this exquisite parure is a true investment-grade purchase -- made all the more attractive by the fact that a similar necklace (alone) is offered elsewhere online for $450. So is a demi-parure including only a comparable bracelet and pair of earrings. Our spectacular set gives you FOUR pieces: a 15" necklace, a 7 1/2" bracelet and screw-back earrings 1" wide x 3/4" long, all featuring a highly dimensional grape cluster design far more delicate and detailed than the type made today.
Apart from one earring, each jewel in the set is stamped with text set in a circle: "Iguala 925 Hecho en Mex" -- Iguala being a town known for jewelry production earlier than nearby Taxco, which grew famous in the 1930s under William Spratling's direction. You've heard of Taxco, no doubt; well, Iguala artisans taught them how to do it! Spratling imported Igualan master goldsmiths Artemio Navarrette, Alfonso Mondragon and Wencesloa Herrerato to instruct the locals in metalwork. Within this circular stamp are initials that seem to read SMS or EML), unfortunately not a mark can interpret. A second mark in the shape of a bird (the so-called "eagle stamp") contains the numeral 3 and indistinct letters that look like J L or I L.
The Arts and Crafts "paperclip" links of the chains suggests a very early 20th century dating; however, the bird-shaped hallmark, a government assurance of silver quality, makes the 1940s more likely.
These treasures reached us in superb condition, but so dark with the patina of age that we couldn't resist cleaning them somewhat to reveal the details. They can of course be polished mirror-bright if you prefer. Provenance is a Lancaster County estate in Pennsylvania.
For this remarkable parure, there will be no charge for insured delivery to any country where we ship and beautiful gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Art Deco Earrings by Bulatti c 1930 Rare
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1940 item# 593500
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It's easy to see these Bulatti earrings are rare and wonderful, even before reading the maker's signature. You'll notice first of all the remarkable design and then the no-detail-spared quality. Those two factors have made the The Bulatti organization a major force in hand-made fashion jewelry since the early 20th century, operating now in Milan, Paris and Amsterdam.
These earrings are of course a long-discontinued design. They would have been made around 1930, when Italy was much in the midst of a Neo-Classical Revival. As we know, Mussolini thought of himself as a latter-day Roman Emperor, so ancient grandeur was terrifically in style. Here that taste was both honored and given a Modernist spin through the bold scale of the earrings. They're quite large (about 1 5/8" x 1 1/4"), although light enough to feel comfortable on.
Featuring multi-layered construction in the Classical tradition, the highly dimensional sterling frames are ornamented with lots of fine engraving (even on the backs). Fitted into these are ovals of what appears to be malachite and, atop that deep forest green background, intricately worked sterling bezels hold slices of luminous mother-of-pearl. Additionally, each earring has a dozen diamond rhinestones in perfect balance: three at each compass point.
Condition of the earrings is marvelous. There's a substantial amount of patina, which I haven't wanted to remove (in deference to the purists among us), but no damage and it takes high magnification to notice age-appropriate surface wear. The fasteners are early clips of the type that grew more dominant than screws during the 1930s. Here they're fixed onto circular silver plates that descend from the upper curve of the frames.
Provenance of these treasures is a New England estate and our price represents a great bargain. Even brand-new Bulatti pieces are fetching in the neighborhood of $125.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Fine 1780 - 1800 Silver Filigree Zeeland Brooch
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Pre Victorian:
Pre 1800 item# 567462
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$325
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When we had a brooch of this type last year, I was bowled over by its massive size. Amazingly, here's one about TWICE as big and in even better shape. It measures well over 2 3/4 inches in diameter, with a dome rising more than 1 1/4 inches.
This fascinating form was developed in the Netherlands, where 18th century residents of Zeeland wore it as part of their regional costume. It retains the old T-hinge and open C clasp indicative of great age, as well as the extremely substantial pinstem we associate with Georgian times. The only departure from original condition is that the pinstem, which would have been extra-long, was at some point shortened (a good idea, since they're dangerous now that we don't wear corsets and other layers of heavy underclothing).
The metal is almost certainly 835 silver (the old Dutch sterling standard), although I haven't yet spotted the mark. Given the fragility of the material, it's truly remarkable that even the respousse beads show almost no dimpling.
These aren't as heavy to wear as you'd think, because there's so much openwork. Provenance is the estate of a New Yorker who lived past 90. The brooch would have been antique, of course, long before she purchased or inherited it.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and beautiful gift wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Outstanding Vintage Blue and White Sapphire Ring
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Modernism:
Pre 1980 item# 563435
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
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$265
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This is a ring it's hard to take your eyes off. Everything about it commands attention: its swirling asymmetrical form, dramatic size and extreme dimensionality -- plus the dazzle of 8 white sapphires and 9 vivid cornflower blue ones cut in marquise shape and arrayed like dancing flames. As another graceful touch, the lower third of the ring's face is below the shank and sits on the hand, making the fingers look longer.
The jeweled area measures nearly an inch tall and more than half an inch wide, and it rises 3/8 of an inch above the shank on an intricate undergallery that looks spectacular from every angle. The metal looks and behaves like platinum, since it's plated with rhodium, which is from the same family of hard-wearing, no-tarnish metals. Underlying the rhodium is hallmarked sterling silver. Present size is US 6 to 6.5, easily altered since the band isn't decorated. Condition of the ring is very good, showing only age-appropriate surface wear under high magnification. From a Texas estate, it dates most likely to the 1970s. The style is obviously Retro/Modernist, but with more feminine, flowing lines than are typically seen in earlier examples.
Besides being the main birthstone for September, sapphire is the anniversary stone for the 5th and 45th years of marriage. It's said to foster mental clarity, calm, love and good health.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Lavishly Textured c 1890 Sterling Silver Posy Brooch
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1900 item# 546551
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$110
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What makes this hand-crafted Victorian Arts & Crafts brooch truly remarkable is the attention given to its surface detail. The artist who fashioned it managed to combine the appeal of needlework with that of silverwork. The flower petals, engraved to resemble woven threads of fabric, are edged with what look like cross-stitch stars. The stem is prettily textured, too, and the flower's repousse center is even patterned with a stylized floral form. There's so much going on that you can lose yourself in looking at it.
The old "C" clasp indicative of great age is present, as is a hinge of the type introduced in the 1880s. The pinstem remains somewhat elongated, but was at some point shortened a bit in the interest of safety (not a bad idea, since extra-long ones can easily draw blood). This type of hinge lets the pinstem wobble when open, but it fastens securely. A small tear at the top of the hinge has been professionally repaired. Given the extreme delicacy of sterling, the brooch is in lovely condition, although of course the repair is reflected in our price. Size is 1 3/4" by 1 1/4", with the flower's face measuring 1 1/4" in each direction -- a perfect size to ornament a lapel without overwhelming. Provenance is an East Coast estate.
There's no charge for insured US Priority shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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c 1800 Regency Era Mourning Locket of Enameled Silver
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Art Nouveau:
Pre 1837 VR item# 544926
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$210
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Extremely well-crafted diminutive lockets were a feature of Regency fashion, as were enamelwork, neo-classical patterns and plumes. All these currents combine here, where a finely enameled Greek Key border surrounds an engraved peacock feather and eye motif at center. (The peacock was not only fashionable on headgear then, but also a symbol of eternal life.)
A very early dating is further indicated by the plain window of beveled crystal on the reverse, through which we glimpse black fabric or very tightly woven hair held by a gilt retaining band of rope-twist design. I see no way to open this without popping up the glass (which seems to have incurred a teensy chip from exactly that process). Later lockets, as we know, have separate metal compartments that open to view enclosures. From later examples, we'd also expect hallmarks on any piece that required so much intricate craftsmanship, whereas there's no stamp of any sort on this silver. It looks like sterling, but may be a somewhat lesser European grade. An interesting mystery is the presence of a small incised line on the front that isn't part of the design, but looks intentional. Perhaps it was meant to be a mark of grief, detracting from perfection. Occasionally I get vibes off a piece of jewelry and this one is loaded with emotion. I feel it was first worn as a memorial jewel either by the person who made it or by someone of the same family.
Measuring a dainty 1 inch by 1/2 inch, this rare beauty was probably meant to be a ribbon slide tied at choker length and it looks lovely on the black silken cord we found. You could of course wear it on a necklace or bracelet chain, if you prefer. Its condition is splendid, relative to age, and provenance is a Florida estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Our Earliest Blister Pearl Sterling Ring, Art Nouveau
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Art Nouveau:
Pre 1900 item# 531776
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$135
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The Art Nouveau setting of this exquisite antique ring dates it to the 1890s, soon after blister pearls were first cultivated and took Victorian designers by storm. It's highly unusual, because most blister pearl rings are in much simpler Arts and Crafts mountings. Here a riot of scrollwork ornaments both the shoulders and the bezel's frilly outer frame. The stone's a marvel, too: almost an inch tall and wonderfully luminous, dominated by hues of coral, rose and sea green. Signed simply Sterling, the jewel is undoubtedly hand-crafted. Current size is a U.S. 4.5 - 5, easiy changed since the back of the shank is undecorated (and a bit flat from having been resized before). It's also slightly out of round, which is easily corrected if it bothers you. Condition is otherwise superb. Provenance is a West Coast estate.
If you love antique blister pearl jewelry, be sure to see our beautiful brooch, stickpin and pendant, as well as two other splendid rings from the same period. If you're interested in more than one piece, we can work out special pricing.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Vintage Bracelet of Silver Filigree Floral Crosses
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Period:
Pre 1940 item# 509973
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Airy filigree feels almost weightless on the wrist, and yet this bracelet will add tons of style to any outfit. Each of its six linked panels is slightly domed and formed in the dramatic shape of a cross pattée (often confused with a Maltese cross and also associated with the Knights Templar and other Crusader groups and states). Very interestingly, the crosses can also be read as flowers surrounded by four petals of openwork. The linked panels are nicely large, measuring about 1 1/4 by 7/8 inches, and the total length is abundant: 7 1/4 inches in filigree and nearly 8 inches, counting the clasp. It would fit just about any wrist and, if you need it shorter, a smaller clasp would do the job.
The bracelet was sold to us as Victorian and it might be, based on the "spun silver" look and the fact that the floral centered are crowned with actual wire -- a rarity after machine methods were introduced in the 19th century. Contrary to popular belief, virtually all 20th century filigree was pierced and stamped from die-struck components (and, more recently, cast to eliminate a lot of handwork). In the absence of the original clasp, which has been replaced by a modern one, the bracelet can't be firmly pronounced an antique, so I'm calling it Victorian Revival circa 1930s. The central blossoms were gilded and most of that finish is gone, but I believe this resulted from cleaning, because the rest of the bracelet shows so little wear. (Never use a silver polish on vermeil, only a cloth marked "safe for gold".) The silver metal here is quite sturdy and without tarnish, so is most likely rhodium, a member of the platinum family and a great favorite in the Art Deco era.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Arts & Crafts Moonstone SS Necklace w/ Paperclip Chain
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1920 item# 507763
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$145
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Here's a little slice of heaven -- a bewitching crescent moon to wear at your throat, set with a luminous moonstone. Nothing could be prettier or more appropriate with the "goddess" fashions so stylish this season.
As you know, moonstones were greatly favored by jewelry designers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They were ideal for the cabochon cuts and simple bezel settings that characterized Arts and Crafts style. The very clean lines of this jewel anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve in Edwardian times, but its dainty scale identifies it with the earlier era. It was undoubtedly made for a young lady, since large jewelry was considered vulgar on unmarried women until standards relaxed after World War I. Its paperclip chain -- an extremely feminine, curvy version in this case -- is also typically Edwardian and transitional.
This ethereally beautiful necklace is 15 inches long, with the central moon measuring about 1 3/8 inches from horn to horn. The stone is blue-white and undoubtedly genuine, without the abrasions we'd see on glass. Overall condition of the jewel is lovely. Only light surface wear is evident under high magnification, along with a bit of age patina on the reverse that survived someone's recent polishing (not mine, I emphasize to the purists among us). That it's stamped simply "Sterling" suggests American origin, because a panoply of hallmarks appear on most English sterling silver. Provenance is a Deep South estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Art Nouveau Double-Sided Sterling Cufflinks c1900
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Victorian:
Pre 1900 item# 506807
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$139
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With fashion's return to the elegance of French cuffs, antique cufflinks are flying off our shelves as fast as we can find them -- so, if these appeal to you, you'd better not delay.
Besides being simply gorgeous, they're rare by virtue of having four faces at such an early time. As a rule, Victorian cufflinks have simple "bean" backs, so we see here an example of transition toward the heyday of cufflinks: Edwardian and Art Deco days, when they were equally beautiful fore and aft. It didn't last long, as we know. By the Retro era, backs were simple again, mere flip mechanisms.
These highly collectible links are wonderfully wearable today, being in superb condition. This, too, is extraordinary, given the delicacy of sterling silver, particularly when worked in repousse. About an inch long and a quarter of an inch wide, they're elongated ovals worked in an ornate feather motif -- perhaps a nod to "Prince of Wales feathers" as the Edwardian era approached or was dawning. Arts and Crafts influence is evident in the simplicity of the unusual double fish-hook connectors, each with a hallmark for Sterling (worn but legible). Had they been made in England, a panoply of markings would be present, so they're most likely American. They reached us from a Florida estate, so heavily tarnished that I broke my usual rule about leaving things as-found and gave them a good cleaning. With apologies to the purists among us, they needed it. These beauties sparkle like the dickens now, and we can make out all the lovely Art Nouveau detailing.
There's no charge for insured Priority shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availabiilty, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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