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Finely Detailed Antique Silver Lion Ring circa 1900
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Art Nouveau:
Pre 1910 item# 504327
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Who's your favorite Leo Lady, and how much would she love this ring? It's a gorgeous old one, combining curvy Art Nouveau lines with an unusually simple tapering band shape that shows Arts and Crafts influence, too. I love it when those design currents intersect, because each benefits the other and you wind up with a fresh and unexpected look.
This ring would suit you Leo Lads, as well, but I mentioned the gals first because it's quite a small one -- about a U.S. size 4. That of course can be changed by any good jeweler, since the back of the shank isn't ornamented. It's definitely a hand-made ring, showing tool marks plainly. Because the silver is unmarked, it could be of a grade slightly less than sterling, but it tarnishes and polishes like stering. Hallmarks weren't mandatory in the U.S. until shortly before World War I, so my best guess is that it was crafted here before marks were required. The face of the lion is about 3/4 of an inch tall, so he isn't one of those big, overpowering beasts. Condition is very nice, relative to age. With apologies to the purists among us, I gave it a fairly thorough cleaning, because the patina was so extreme. If you prefer a darker look, tarnish will soon enough return.
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Fine Vintage Mexican Bracelet Mixed Metals and Crystal
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Mexican:
Pre 1980 item# 499309
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This is one of the most remarkable Mexican bracelets I've seen. Obviously hand-crafted by a talented artisan, it's of hammered silver lavished with exotic adornments. These modernist layerings appear to be copper, brass and more silver -- and, to cap it all, there's a central stone of faintly rosy quartz crystal.
The angular crystal inclines me to date the jewel to the 1970s, when these New Age symbols of healing and power debuted. The "hecho en Mexico" mark seems too worn for it be later. I can find no maker stamp, nor any indication of exact metal content, although it's malleable like sterling and shapes to fit any wrist. Width at the front is about one inch. You'll get loads of compliments on this!
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Mexican Late Deco / Moderne Coiled Snake Bracelet
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Mexican:
Pre 1940 item# 411443
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This delightful wrap bracelet from the 1930s is antique or almost, by American 75-year standards, rather than merely vintage. Art Deco influence is clearly evident in the geometric pattern of the snake's "scales" - which are incised circles that match his little round eyes. His head, formed separately, shows quite a lot of detail (even on the sides) and is stamped on its reverse HECHO EN MEXICO.
Although the bracelet shows little wear on the front, the stamp inside is indisdinct after decades of use and another mark that appears behind the head is worn past my ability to interpret it - except to rule out the eagle assay hallmark introduced in the 1940s. It looks more like a stylized left-facing parrot with its beak open wide than anything else. The initials M and W seem to appear faintly within it. Perhaps this will mean something to you, but Mexican silver isn't one of my specialties. The metal doesn't tarnish aggressively, so I'm puzzled by that, too. There are no surface losses to indicate plating, so I have to conclude it's either 1) sterling treated to prevent oxidation; 2) a less pure silver or 3)possibly alpaca, chromium or rhodium. Whatever it's made of, this wonderful jewel shines like the dickens and is flexible enough to fit any size wrist or forearm. Its provenance is a New Mexico estate.
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Signed Vintage Modernist Sterling & Turquoise Earrings
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Pre 1970 item# 411423
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Turquoise is the "it" color now, both for fashions and jewelry, so there couldn't be a better time to own these graceful hand-wrought earrings. Their sophisticated Modernist design features elongated ovals of silver bevel-set with well-matched cabochons of good quality natural turquoise about 3/4" long by 1/2" wide. Overall size is about 1 1/4" x 3/4". There's a bit more of the desirable dark matrix in the stones than the photo could capture, due to glare, and their rich blue color has greened somewhat with age, as turquoise does. (I particularly prize the greener pieces in my own collection, because they're the good old ones.)
From a New Mexico estate, these jewels are almost certainly Native American-made - but old enough to precede the stamp that now guarantees Native American craftsmanship (which I believe was introduced early in the 1970s). The only mark present is FA 925. FA presumably refers to the artist, whose initials I don't recognize. The earrings are in beautifully wearable condition, showing only age-appropriate surface wear and a little waviness along the edge that you have to hunt for. This is inevitable, given the delicacy of sterling silver, and doesn't detract. Some patina is present, especially on reverse, but that will easily polish off if you prefer a brighter look. Based on style, I'd date them to the 1950s, but the post fittings argue for a 1960s dating.
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c1960 Vintage Sterling Charm Bracelet, 13 Silver Charms
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Period:
Pre 1970 item# 408766
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This 7-inch sterling bracelet has double links, so is quite heavy and sturdy. On it is a delightful assortment of 13 charms from the 1950s and 1960s, most hallmarked sterling. Included are a flute, a baton with silver wire trim, a musical clef, a fancy tooled saddle, a cute telephone with a pierced dial that turns, a megaphone with a black enamel letter D, a puffy heart with an engraved star, a Junior Classics League (Latin Club) medallion, a Chinese character of unknown meaning (unmarked), a graduation mortarboard hat and diploma, two wedding bells, a Southern Methodist University medallion with black, blue and red enamel and, last but not least, a large sterling disc with an applied turquoise and silver medallion, which I understand was the face of a child's ring bought at Carlsbad Caverns in 1956.
This bracelet is in lovely condition, having no doubt been packed away for many years, unworn. It takes high magnification even to see signs of wear on the spring-ring clasp. Provenance is a New Mexico collection.
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Superb Art Deco Earrings w/ Topaz or Cairngorm
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1930 item# 404537
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Two large topaz (or possibly cairngorm) stones dominate these finely crafted antique earrings, each measuring about 1/2 x 3/8 inch and open-set within mountings about 1/2 x 5/8 inch. The stones are essentially emerald-cut, but with some extra faceting for added brilliance. Around them are 1/8-inch frames with scalloped and beaded edges, set with especially wonderful marcasites (perhaps hematites) that sparkle like diamonds. There's an enormous amount of detail, as you see, and the design is vividly 1920s Deco Geometric.
Although the earrings came from a London dealer, I don't believe they're English, since the backs are simply stamped SILVER. British earrings of this quality would bear the usual phalanx of sterling hallmarks. My guess is that they were made for the English-speaking market in one of those Deco Meccas, France or Belgium. Or they could be American. Silver content may be less than sterling grade, but not by far; the metal tarnishes and polishes up exactly like sterling.
Something I particularly love about this pair is that they have original posts - still a rather new development in that era. Most of us now prefer posts for security's sake and yet putting them on after the fact damages an antique jewel's value. I also love the fact that these *scream* Deco, without being dangling monsters unsuitable for day wear unless you're a rock star. They'll go the office (and anywhere) elegantly.
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Victorian Arts and Crafts Brooch of Sterling and Topaz
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1900 item# 403907
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This superb handmade antique brooch is a museum-worthy example of Arts and Crafts design and workmanship. It's among the best I've ever seen, which is why it's been in my personal collection for 25 years. The size is quite substantial - about 2 by 1 3/4 inches - and of course it has the old T-hinge, open C-clasp and thick elongated pinstem indicative of great age.
With apologies to the purists among us, I keep this pin lightly polished with a jeweler's cloth, so it isn't crusty with patina. When that gets too dark and heavy, we lose sight of the fine hammer strokes and other textural features of this treasure. It's amazingly detailed. The stone is gorgeously cut, too. It was sold to me as a topaz, but could conceivably be cairngorm; it's definitely a natural stone. One would expect a signature on a jewel of this quality; however, many of the finest weren't signed.
The brooch came from an antiques dealer in London and it might have been made there. The quality is certainly up to London standards, but Scotland is also a good possibility. Gems of this color often feature in Scottish jewelry and the bold form has a rather Mackintosh look, especially those elongated petals.
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Sweet Edwardian Sterling Marcasite Giardinetti Earrings
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1920 item# 382675
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Created in the giardinetti (little gardens) style introduced in the Rococo period of the 18th century, these darling antique earscrews are in exquisite condition, despite substantial age. They certainly date from the early 20th century, being marked Sterling, rather than the later 925, and they're very well made. Abundant detail includes millegrain edges and trim, carefully formed flower petals and swirls to evoke a woven pattern on the tall basket handle. The refined craftsmanship and dainty size, about 3/4" x 3/4", suggest that they're Edwardian or transitional (1905 - 1920). They would have been worn by a young lady, since large jewelry was then considered vulgar on unmarried women in Victorian and Edwardian times. Backs are of early screw type. Provenance is a New England estate.
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Dramatic 2 3/4-inch Deco Vermeil Dangle Earrings
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1940 item# 339861
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From an estate in Florida, where Art Deco reached its zenith in Amerifa, these dazzling earscrews feature long beaded chains that tinkle softly with each movement. Although unmarked, they tested postive for sterling silver, portions of which are surfaced brilliantly with rich high-carat gold. Their size is can't-miss-'em: 2 3/4 inches long by 3/4 inch wide - and condition is lovely. Dating from the 1920s or 1930s, these are already or almost antique by American 75-year standards, rather than merely vintage. They're fitted with screw backs right for the period.
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Cutest Deco Sterling Cowgirl Boot Earrings c 1930
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Retro:
Pre 1950 item# 195348
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In the 1920s, railroads opened the West to vacationers and soon the public imagination was captured by the old frontier. Zane Grey novels became best-sellers and the first cowboy movies appeared. That these hand-made silver earrings date from the Art Deco era is indicated by age-appropriate surface wear and the fact that they're stamped "Sterling" (rather than the later "925"). Each measures about 1/2" in each direction and has the screw-on fastener widely used between 1910 and 1935, when ear-piercing was considered barbaric. Of course they could be easily changed to posts.
With apologies to the purists among us, the tarnish on these delightful earrings was so heavy that I simply had to give the fronts a light polish. Most of the age patina remains in place on the reverses.
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