Antique Moonstone Sterling Necklace on Paperclip Chain
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1920 item# 1114707
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$135 SALE. Was $155.
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Here's a little slice of heaven: a bewitching crescent moon to wear at your throat, set with a luminous moonstone.
As you probably know, moonstones were greatly favored by jewelry designers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They were ideal for the cabochon cuts and simple bezel settings that characterized Arts and Crafts style. The very clean lines of this jewel anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve in Edwardian times, but its dainty scale identifies it with the earlier era. It was undoubtedly made for a young lady, since large jewelry was considered vulgar on unmarried women until standards relaxed after World War I. Its paperclip chain -- an extremely feminine, curvy version in this case -- is also typically Edwardian and transitional.
This ethereally beautiful necklace is 15 inches long, with the central moon measuring about 1 3/8 inches from horn to horn. The stone is blue-white and undoubtedly genuine, without the abrasions we'd see on glass. Overall condition of the jewel is lovely. Only light surface wear is evident under high magnification, along with a bit of age patina on the reverse that survived someone's recent polishing (not mine, I emphasize to the purists among us). That it's stamped simply "Sterling" suggests American origin, because a panoply of hallmarks appear on most English sterling silver. Provenance is a Deep South estate.
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Agate Silver Ring by Clark and Coombs c1900 His or Hers
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1910 item# 1113588
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$195 SALE. Was $245.
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This spectacular antique ring features a beautifully translucent large cabochon of dendritic agate -- the type with dark inclusions resembling ice crystal, also called mocha stone. It's collet-set in a sleek Arts & Crafts mounting of sterling silver that will please either a gentleman or a lady who favors bold forms. The ring's face is large, but not overpowering (not quite 3/4" tall)and stylized decorations on each side show the slight variations that demonstrate hand-craftsmanship.
These so-called "fancy" agates were highly prized in Late Victorian and Edwardian times. They suited the taste for unusual gems that we see in both Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewelry, along with their emphasis on artistic design and meticulous workmanship. The new ideal was for everything to be special and unique in some ways, as opposed to the mass-produced goods of the Industrial Revolution. Ultimately this worthy movement died of its own good taste. The insistence on ultra-fine fabrication priced most people out of the market.
The maker in the present instance, Clark & Coombs of Providence, R.I., is a perfect illustration of that. Established in 1862, C & C had a national reputation for gold and silver rings by the early 20th century and tried to carry on without further mechanization, but was unable to compete effectively. Although the firm still exists, it was taken over by new management and modernized for greater output after World War II.
It's wonderful when we find an example of their exquisite early creations. Most likely this ring dates from between 1900 and 1910. While the basic shape of the setting was used in the 19th century, the very clean lines of its ornamentation anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve after the turn of the century. Its interior bears a "Sterling" hallmark and the C&C stamp used until 1915 (two Cs in triangles around a stylized ampersand tilting right).
Based on all these facts, it really isn't stretching a point to say that this ring has historical importance. It's also distinguished by being in near-mint condition, despite great age. Provenance is a Pacific Northwest estate and the current size, about a U.S. 8 - 8.5, can be easily altered, since the back of the shank is plain.
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Mesmerizing Antique Arts and Crafts Blue Spinel Ring
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1940 item# 1038613
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$285 SALE. Was $345.
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This antique blue spinel ring has a hypnotic effect, like gazing through the sheen of sunlight into deep, deep water. It's more than an inch tall, about 3/8 of an inch wide and stunningly faceted. Getting photos was a major challenge, due to the gem's mirror-like luster and elaborate marquise cut.
Many people mistakenly believe spinels are synthetics, when actually they're among the hardest and loveliest natural gemstones. In their most common red version, they've been frequently confused with rubies. For instance, the famous "Black Prince's Ruby" in the British Imperial State Crown turned out to be a spinel. Being blue, this is a rare spinel to begin with, and its ultra-rich color and size add to the rarity.
Another fascinating attribute of this ring is the convergence of Arts and Crafts and Art Deco style currents. The setting, appropriately for such a fancy-shaped stone, is simple, graceful and more than likely hand-made. Ornamented with only a couple of silver beads and a bit of engraving on the sides, the mount has a distinctly Arts and Crafts look. However, an early Arts and Crafts piece probably would have a plain cabochon stone, rather than a towering geometric shape suggesting Art Deco. Based on the blend of design influences, I believe it was made around 1930, so it's already antique by American 75-year standards.
Condition of the jewel is lovely. It takes a 10X loupe to notice any flaws at all and, even then, signs of age-appropriate wear are very minor. Markings inside the band are "Sterling Shank" and a maker's mark I haven't been able to interpret. It's a "V" over a horizontal diamond shape. If that means anything to you, please let us know.
The ring came from a New York estate, where the seller noted, "Blue spinel brings peace." I don't know about that, but this one is sure to bring a lot of pleasure.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Victorian Arts and Crafts Brooch of Sterling and Topaz
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1900 item# 1037523
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$285
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This superb handmade antique brooch is a museum-worthy example of Arts and Crafts design and workmanship. It's among the best I've seen, which is why it's been in my personal collection for 30 years. The size is quite substantial - about 2 by 1 3/4 inches - and of course it has the old T-hinge, open C-clasp and thick elongated pinstem indicative of great age.
With apologies to the purists among us, I keep this pin lightly polished with a jeweler's cloth, so its details are buried in patina. If that got too dark and heavy, we'd lose sight of the fine hammer strokes and other textural features of this treasure.
The gorgeously cut stone was sold to me as a topaz, but could conceivably be cairngorm; it's definitely a natural gem.
The brooch came from an antiques dealer in London and it might have been made there. The quality is certainly up to London standards, but Scotland is also a good possibility. Gems of this color often feature in Scottish jewelry and the bold form has a rather Mackintosh look, especially those elongated petals. One would expect a signature on a jewel of this quality; however, many of the finest Arts & Crafts pieces weren't signed.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international deliery, and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Arts and Crafts Sterling Crescent Moon Brooch
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1920 item# 685791
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$175
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The crescent moon motif has featured in jewels since antiquity, but reached its height of refinement in Victorian times and immediately thereafter. This splendid example of the form unites the romantic Victorian impulse with fine Arts & Crafts workmanship and early 20th century modernism.
The result is a brooch that's as much a delight to touch as to see. The sterling moon is sleek and shapely, concave below and convex above, where an applied halo of 12 large diamond pastes rings the outer edge with brilliance. The wonderful old stones, so much more fiery than our modern rhinestones, are set in tall collets that flare from narrow bases to wide notched tops. These gracefully constructed little silver towers show the minor differences in shape and size that attest to hand-craftmanship, as do slight irregularities of the seam between the two parts. Also signifying quality, there's a good heft to this pin, relative to its size (about 1.5 by .75 inches). Being so dimensional -- more than a fourth of an inch thick -- it seems bigger.
Condition is lovely, showing only age-appropriate surface wear under magnification, and provenance is a New England estate. The clasp is an safety that appears original; otherwise, the dating could be up to a decade earlier than 1920. Although the Edwardian era technically ended in 1910, much of the style persisted through a transitional period until Art Deco became dominant.
Quite a bit of patina remains around the clasp and hinge, as well as around the stones, but someone has given the rest of it a recent polish. The only mark is the word Sterling, as is right for the period. Our modern "925" began to be widely seen in the 1930s.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery). Gift-wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Lavishly Textured Sterling Silver Posy Brooch c 1890
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1900 item# 546551
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$90 SALE. Was $110.
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What makes this hand-crafted Victorian Arts & Crafts brooch truly remarkable is the attention given to its surface detail. The artist who fashioned it managed to combine the appeal of needlework with that of silverwork. The flower petals, engraved to resemble woven threads of fabric, are edged with what look like cross-stitch stars. The stem is prettily textured, too, and the flower's repousse center is even patterned with a stylized floral form. There's so much going on that you can lose yourself in looking at it.
The old "C" clasp indicative of great age is present, as is a hinge of the type introduced in the 1880s. The pinstem remains somewhat elongated, but was at some time shortened a bit in the interest of safety (not a bad idea, since extra-long ones can easily draw blood). This type of hinge lets the pinstem wobble when open, but it fastens securely. A small tear at the top of the hinge has been professionally repaired. Given the extreme delicacy of sterling, the brooch is in lovely condition, although of course the repair is reflected in our low price. Size is 1 3/4" by 1 1/4", with the flower's face measuring 1 1/4" in each direction -- a perfect size to ornament a lapel without overwhelming. Provenance is an East Coast estate.
There's no charge for insured US Priority shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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