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Antique Edwardian Sterling Brooch with Goddess Intaglio

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All Items: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Edwardian: Pre 1910: item # 723454





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Antique Edwardian Sterling Brooch with Goddess Intaglio
The frosty white-on-white look captured the height of Edwardian refinement a hundred years ago, during the last great period of hand-made jewelry. Not coincidentally, the Arts and Crafts movement had flourished for several decades by then, promoting excellence of design and workmanship, along with an artistic approach to selecting materials. This led, in Edwardian times, to a passion for carved crystal and to creation of exquisite medallions like the one featured here: a likeness of the goddess Athena, intricately worked from the back into a disc of iridescent glass with the hypnotic sheen of opal.

The subject of the intaglio -- the ancient Greek goddess of wisdom and strategic warfare, generally shown in a helmet -- reminds us that Neo-Classicism was another strong element of Edwardian taste. In this, they took inspiration from Georgian and Regency examples. While classical subjects weren't abandoned during Victoria's long reign, they were executed on a grander scale and in a more florid manner than suited the Edwardian spirit of restrained connoisseurship.

Eighteenth-century influence is also apparent here in the metalwork's form, which suggests a Chippendale lattice pattern. That it's marked only "Sterling" -- rather than with figural stamps typical of European silver -- makes American origin likely. However, the superb intaglio is almost certainly Bohemian, French or Italian. The carving rests in a simple bezel setting, as was favored in the Arts and Crafts tradition.

In one interesting aspect, its size, this treasure shows the early 20th century exuberance that would flower in Art Deco days. It's the biggest jewel of bar brooch form that I've ever seen: 3.25 inches long! It fastens with an extremely sturdy pinstem and has the old open C clasp appropriate to its age. The pin would originally have been elongated past the edge of the brooch but, like most of those, it was shortened and filed to a new point at some time for safety's sake. Condition, as you see, as absolutely lovely; dating is circa 1905 and provenance is a New York estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail erinharris@comcast.net to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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