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ROYAL KUBA BAKUBA NTSHAKISHEEN WITH TRADE CLOTH

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Directory: Antiques:Regional Art:African:Textiles: Pre 1920: Item # 620920


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ROYAL KUBA BAKUBA NTSHAKISHEEN WITH TRADE CLOTH

Bakuba Peoples, Congo. This is a Royal Bushongo Queen's overskirt, called a "Ntshakisheen" - "Ntshak-" for a woman's garment, and the use of barkcloth denoting the type of Ntshak, hence "Ntshakisheen". Worn only by the highest ranking women at Court, this shows the traditional "Richileu" embroidered edge, contra-opposed black and white pieces of sewn barkcloth to the center - the "Mboom", etc. Interestingly, this example shows two pieces of red trade cloth (reserved for Royalty) which shows how the Bakuba revered, kept, and re-used their finest Apparel. Measuring approximately 42 1/2" x 25 1/2" (108 x 65 cm.), this is in overall good condition, as barkcloth does not keep well in the Congo; some separations, etc.; this poor old Bakuba cloth - once danced proudly! In "The Art History of Bakuba Textiles" (unpublished manuscript) it is shown that the Royal 'Court' dress of the Bakuba evolved markedly from the early- to mid-twentieth century as noted in photograhic record; that while Ntshakisheen held primary importance to the 'first queen' of the Bakuba Royal King Nyimi Kot Ma'bi'i'nc (ruled 1919-1939), see image (ph. Achten, 1927), by the mid-twentieth century the class of "Labot Latwool" royal garments had also evolved, including Ntshabwiins and Ntshakikots, while Ntshakisheens had fallen from favor in preference for new fashion at court - fashions including the widespread use of beadwork in the Labot Latwool class of garments, in the Queens' 'court' dress (see Cornet).

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