Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian: Central Asian: Textiles (217)

Living in the mountainous terrain of central Afghanistan where the cold and snow isolate entire villages for months, the minority Hazara women have developed a terse embroidery style of cross stitch and interlocking eight-pointed star motifs to produce their dowries. This textile from central Afghanistan is embroidered in silk thread on a plain weave cotton linen background. The top right corner is left unfinished, part of this textile's understated appeal. It measures 14 inches by 14 1/2 inches. It is being sold in a glass frame (black metal frame). Condition is perfect. Estimated age: late 20th century.

This vintage Hazara waistcoat from Jaghori in central Afghanistan is embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting interlocking eight star motifs, a traditional motif in Hazara embroidery. The collar, shoulder bands and side panels are meticulously worked in Bukhara stitching in metallic thread, where the couched threads are laid in parallel to each other and are fastened by small stitches. The curvilinear forms form a surface pattern of a neat grid of lines which in themselves create geometric motifs in relief. The yoke measures 28.5 cm from the shoulder hem to the bottom hem, 26.5 cm across the front panel, and 44 cm across with the triangular side panels included. From the collar to the bottom hem the textile measures 28.5 cm. Condition is excellent. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Living in the mountainous regions of central Afghanistan, the women make these embroideries throughout the cold and harsh winters. This textile measures 25 x 27 cm and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cross stitch in silk thread on an apricot cotton linen background. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

In the mountainous central provinces of Afghanistan embroidery is an important winter activity for women. This hand-embroidered textile from central Afghanistan measures 26 x 28 cm, composed of silk thread in cross stitch on a beige cotton linen background. It is in excellent condition and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. As Bernard Dupaigne has noted, a syncretic embroidery tradition has developed in the central provinces where Pashtun and Hazara villages lie in close proximity to each other, a style that incorporates both embroidery traditions - Pashtun and Hazara - thus the difficulty in pinpointing the exact provenance of this particular piece.

The Hazara embroidery of central Afghanistan is extremely fine, worked typically in brick stitch in diamond motifs surrounded by hooked diamonds. This purse was probably used to store a precious object such as the soil or holy stone brought from the holy city of Kerbala. This purse measures 13 x 22.5 cm when open, 9.6 x 13 cm when closed. Silk thread embroidered in brick stitch on cotton. Condition is excellent, and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century.

This purse is worked in a variation of ladder stitch to form repeating whorl and volute motifs on a silk ground. The inside features two pockets lined with purple silk and orange cotton, with the outer edges fringed with blue glass seed beads to protect against the evil eye. The purse measures 14.2 x 25.5 cm and is dated to the early to mid 20th century. Silk thread and metallic couching on silk.

This is an Uzbek puttee embroidered in silk thread on a white cotton ground. The technique is a combination of ladder and satin stitch, depicting star motifs in vibrant colors. The puttee measures 7.4 x 55 cm without the string, and is estimated to date from the early to mid 20th century. The reverse is lined with a red floral print cotton.

This Hazara purse from Bamiyan utilizes satin stitch and brick stitch in a combination of silk and cotton thread to achieve a simplicity in design, depicting diamond motifs and hooked diamond patterns, a trademark of Hazara embroidery. The purse measures 12 x 28 cm and is in excellent condition. The interior features three pockets and is partially lined with a dark blue printed silk fabric. Colored beads embellish the fringes of the purse. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 56 x 88 cm, this horse headcover was hand-embroidered by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe, well-known for their horsemanship. Each of the embroidered panels feature solar and horned designs, executed in Bukhara couching on red wool flannel, fringed with beaded silk tassels ending in small white beads, a typical feature in Central Asian embroidery. Condition is good but with a few small holes. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Embroidered in satin stitch in silk thread on a polyester background, this prayer cloth is from central Afghanistan where the minority Shi'a Hazara people live, comprising about 20% of the total population of Afghanistan. This textile depicts the martyrdom of Hazrat Abbas, the half-brother of Hussein ibn Ali, during the battle of Kerbala in Iraq. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The textile measures 31 x 34.3 cm and has some background staining.

This is a yurt ornament made by Lakai Uzbeks living in the northern region of Afghanistan. It is estimated to date to the mid to late 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery is satin stitch in silk thread forming traditional geometric designs with a cotton paisley lining on the reverse. The textile measures 11.8 x 86.5 cm including the elaborate tassels and crown knots.

Metallic thread is used to optimal effect in this Pashtun nomad's purse from southern Afghanistan. The thread is not taken through the magenta silk background but applied onto it in couched threads, laid parallel to each other and caught down by a small stitch in colored cotton. The small fastening stitches in cotton contribute to form a surface pattern of a neat grid of lines which in themselves create geometric and curvilinear motifs in relief (the technique is called "pokhtaduzi", or Romanian couching). This exquisitely embroidered purse was probably used to store kohl and other intimate personal items. The mirrors are called shisha and are there to assist in averting the evil eye, secured with button hole stitching. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is overall excellent, but with some oxidation on one corner of the purse. The inside is lined with a Russian printed cotton fabric. The purse measures 14 x 20.7 cm when opened, 10.3 x 14 cm when closed. Four silk thread pompoms are used as accents on the purse.

This embroidered cloth from Paktya province measures 22 x 22 cm and is in excellent condition. Eight-pointed stars are repeated in symmetry and bordered by scroll motifs, all executed in silk thread in solid stitchery on a fine pumpkin linen background. This textile is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The last photo shows the textile from the reverse, which is as equally fine in detail as the frontpiece.

Measuring 22.6 cm x 23.3 (22.6 x 51.3 including the belt), this child's waistcoat panel was hand-embroidered by Pashtun Mangal women in silk thread on a green silk and red cotton background, in a delicate combination of satin stitch, herringbone stitch and long and short stitch. Its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent. The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing in Southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name "Mangal", is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangals are known for their independent nature, and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia.

This embroidered panel was hand-embroidered by Pashtun women from southern Afghanistan. It measures 23 x 25 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a double cotton background. The embroidery technique is an intricate ladder stitch, the trademark of Pashtun embroidery. Estimated age: late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

The traditional embroidery of Kandahar in southern Afghanistan is called "khamak" and requires great attention to detail as well as being extremely labor intensive. Such embroidery was traditionally limited to men's shawls or to the front of their long, loose shirts. This khamak textile is embroidered in silk thread on a fine cotton linen ground with aqua-colored cotton fringes. It measures 12 x 132.5 cm without the fringes (16.5 x 132.5 cm with the fringes) and is in excellent condition overall. Interlocking geometric motifs are embroidered in mustard, pink and aqua in an exceptionally fine satin stitch, combined with areas of long and short stitch. This textile is estimated to be 40-50 years old. Either side of the textile may be used as the face owing to the continuous supplementary weft technique.

Intricately worked ladder stitch embroidered in green silk thread on a fine doubled muslin background, this old textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province in central Afghanistan would have formed the sleeve cuffs for a woman's dress. Spiral and volute motifs are harmoniously joined to form an exuberant unity in composition. This textile measures 40 x 48.5 cm and is dated to the early or mid 20th century. The textile has some significant staining, unsurpising given its age.

This old textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province, Afghanistan dates from the early to mid 20th century and is embroidered in silk thread on a muslin ground, on an additional muslin background. Abstract volute motifs are dynamically joined in ladder stitch and tightly worked to showcase the two central medallions which are the centerpiece of the composition. This textile measures 55 x 81 cm and is in excellent condition.