Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian: Central Asian (221)

A woman's shirt front from Baluchistan, mid to 20th century, in a combination of blanket stitch, herringbone and satin stitch on green cotton in a diamond repeat pattern. It measures 30.5 x 47 cm. A dress ("pashk") covered with detailed embroidery is everyday attire for Baluch women. The embroidered diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the language of the Baluch. Condition: Excellent.

A pair of embroidered ankle bands from Turkmenistan, measuring 20.3 x 22.9 cm. Embroidery technique is extremely fine herringbone and satin stitch on an indigo silk background. Condition: Excellent. Circa early to mid 20th century.

This is a woman's dress panel ("pushk kurta") from Baluchistan, measuring 43 x 52 cm. Embroidered in silk thread in a combination of interlacing, herringbone, long and short stitch, and extremely fine satin stitch, it depicts diamond shape medallions ("paraiz zarto")and arched columns with intricately repeated geometric motifs which are typical of Baluch embroidery. The most intricate pushks are produced in Makran and other coastal areas of Baluchistan. This is a dazzling and beautiful textile in very good condition. In this part of the world women trim the painstakingly embroidered sections from worn clothing and reapply it to new garments.

An Uzbek mafrash panel from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk embroidery in cross stitch, measuring 16 1/4 x 40 1/4 inches (41.3 cm x 102.2 cm). Condition: Excellent. The reverse side of this textile is lined in purple silk with an ikat hem.

This vintage textile is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan and measures 25.5 x 26 cm. Embroidered in pastel-colored silk thread on a fine white linen, it depicts in satin stitch the triangular shapes that are typical of Hazara embroidery. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no tears, holes, stains). Estimated age: probably 1950-1960.

A knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, made by Uzbeks. Diameter is 18 cm, circumference 51.5 cm. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

An Uzbek knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Diameter 18 cm, circumference 50 cm. Condition very good except for two small tears on the rim.

A woman's cap from Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. Satin stitch in pink, white and yellow silk thread embroidered on green cotton, depicting stylized flowers resembling chrysanthemums. Diameter: 20 cm. Circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

This dress yoke from Bamiyan province measures 34.5 x 41 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in pink, yellow, green and purple silk thread. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This dazzling child's dress front was made by Pashtuns and is probably dated to the 1950s or 60s. The embroidery technique on this textile features couched metallic threads forming an intricate combination of linear and circular designs, so densely arranged as to almost completely obscure the dark purple silk ground. Composed of metallic embroidery (Bokhara couching), the gold thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. Measures 22 cm x 27.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

A child's shirt front from Ghazni province, circa early to mid 1960s, probably from Jaghori or Katawaz. Densely embroidered in extremely fine brick and satin stitch in silk thread on purple silk, the lozenge patterns are framed by Bokhara couching, where the metallic threads are laid in parallel and then fastened with tiny stitches, forming a relief pattern. Blue beads surround the edges, to protect against the evil eye. The waistbands are equally stunning in detail, embroidered in herringbone stitch on orange silk. This textile measures 25.5 x 27 cm when measured without the waistbands; with the waistbands included it measures 27 x 63 cm. Condition: Excellent. No fraying, no tears, no missing beads, no stains.

Measuring 30 x 32.5 cm, this child's waistcoat from Afghanistan is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread in geometric patterns, very typical of Hazara embroideries. However, as Bernard Dupaigne has noted, Pashtun and Hazara embroideries are sometimes difficult to distinguish due to the geographic proximity of both groups in the central region of Afghanistan. There is a style that incorporates the Hazara predilection for geometric designs in cross stitch, while the Pashtun influence is reflected in the typical Bokhara couching technique that frames the outer edges of this textile. Metallic threads are laid in parallel in satin stitch, with tiny stitches fastening the metallic thread at regular intervals to form a relief pattern. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine, slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by floral images interspersed with an abstract Lakai design neatly repeated. The motifs are densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders of this textile are embellished with twisted cotton fringes. Measures 25 x 75 cm on the right panel (including the fringes), 25 x 75 cm on the left panel. The back is lined at the top edge with printed green silk fabric. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

This vintage child's cap from Herat, Afghanistan measures 17 cm in diameter, 50 cm in circumference. It features satin stitch, herringbone stitch and ladder stitch in cotton thread. Condition: Near excellent, only two tiny sections of missing red thread around the rim (see photos). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

A hand-embroidered bag made by Pashtun nomads from Ghazni province (probably Katawaz), Afghanistan. Floral motifs combined with arabesques in herringbone stitch in silk thread on a purple silk background. The Bokhara couching technique is used to maximum effect, where the metallic threads are laid parallel to each other and fastened at regular intervals by tiny red stitches. Blue beads adorn the edges to ward off the evil eye. The interior of the bag is lined in a blue printed fabric. Measures 12.5 x 17 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century (probably early to mid 1960).

A Hazara prayer cloth from Wardak or Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, circa early 20th century. Satin stitch in multicolored silk thread on fine white linen. Squares and triangles are embroidered in complex symmetrical arrangements to form a very balanced, unified composition. Measures 32 x 32 cm. Condition: Very good, a small mend on the perimeter.

This densely embroidered purse is from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan and measures 12x25 cm when opened, 11x12.5 cm when closed. The metallic thread embroidery is not taken through the background fabric but applied onto it in satin stitches, laid parallel to each other and held down by tiny stitches in orange thread. This embroidery technique serves to create the curvilinear designs in relief. The core is red, green and aubergine silk velvet and the relief designs are neatly framed in by a band of emerald and metallic thread in satin stitch. The outer edges of the purse are trimmed with white beads. Printed cotton fabric lines the inside of the purse. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century (probably 1960s).

The fabric on this small purse from Bamiyan is cotton, solidly worked in brick stitch in silk thread, the colors alternating between celadon, pink, orange and red. Circa early to mid 20th century. The interlocking rhomboid design and hooked diamonds are typical of Hazara embroidery. This purse measures 10.5 x 18.5 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no stains, no flaws, no damage)