Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This embroidered panel is a ceremonial food cover made by the Lakai, an Uzbek tribe living in small villages near the northern Afghanistan city of Kunduz. The Lakai came to Afghanistan in the 16th century but they were once also found in what is now Uzbekistan and southern Tajikistan. This textile is composed of stylized star and solar shapes embroidered in silk thread in fine angled blanket stitch and chain stitch on a red plain-woven cotton. These highly abstract designs are typical of Lakai embroidered textiles. This traditional wedding textile dates to the early to mid 20th century and measures 35 1/2 inches x 35 1/2 inches (90 x 90 cm). Condition: Excellent.

This is an Uzbek embroidered cloth from northern Afghanistan. The motifs and colors are typical of the embroideries of Tajikistan and southern Uzbekistan (Sukhandarya). Cross stitch and satin stitch in pink, green, yellow and blue yellow silk thread. This textile was probably made for a dowry. It measures 29.5 x 30 cm. Condition: Excellent, no fraying, no stains, no odors. Estimated age: mid or late 20th century.

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

Worked in an intriguing combination of long and short stitch and ladder stitch on a fine cotton muslin ground, this Uzbek cushion cover from northern Afghanistan measures 39 x 78 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The central field of large rosettes and floral motifs, accented with leaves and smaller rosettes, is executed in silk thread in vivid primary colors in Bukhara couching to evoke the image of a garden in bloom. Condition is excellent.

Depicting whirling solar and cross motifs, this fringed panel is known as a "Lali posh", a food cover used to present flat bread loaves at traditional Uzbek weddings. Outlines of chain stitching are filled with rows of fine, angled blanket stitch in wool thread on a plain-woven wool cloth dyed a deep shade of madder red. Some overcast stitching joins the three separate paneled sections. This textile shows the dynamic use of line and color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. The piece measures 25 inches by 27 1/2 inches. Its estimated age is early to mid 20th century. Condition is good overall, though there is one small hole (see enlargement #9) and some sections of missing wool fringe.

This is a bed decoration from northern Afghanistan made by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe. Traditionally these textiles were placed between layers of bedding quilts at the back of the yurt. This segusha measures 72 x 80 x 115 cm when folded into a triangle, and the embroidery is silk thread on faded red cotton edged with silk fringes, combining satin stitch with long and short stitch. The overall design is dense but not overcrowded, depicting stylized flowers, insects and birds, evoking the image of a garden in bloom. The outline of one unfinished detail can be seen in the upper right hand corner (enlargement #4). Condition: Excellent on the front, but there are some small stains on the reverse side of the textile. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

An Uzbek mafrash panel from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk embroidery in cross stitch, measuring 16 1/4 x 40 1/4 inches (41.3 cm x 102.2 cm). Condition: Excellent. The reverse side of this textile is lined in purple silk with an ikat hem.

An old Uzbek puttee dating from the 1950s or 1960s. Silk embroidery on an ivory linen ground, embroidered in long and short stitch, the trademark of Uzbek embroidery. Condition is very good, some staining on one side. It measures 8.3 cm x 58 cm (w/o string). The string measures 31 cm. Puttees are a strip of cloth wound spirally around the leg from the ankle to the knee.

This Uzbek textile measures 8.2 cm x 52 cm, 8.2 cm x 89 cm with the string. Depicting rosettes in long and short stitch and cross stitch in silk thread on a black cotton ground, this Uzbek puttee dates from the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Puttees are a strip of cloth wound spirally around the leg from ankle to knee.

An old Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan, traditionally used in the yurt. Each side measures 26 x 40 cm including the wool fringe. It is in very good condition, appropriate for its age and origin. The embroidery is very fine cross stitch ("petit point") in silk thread. The reverse is lined in white cotton. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall very good, just one minor stain (see first two photos).

This Uzbek suzani from northern Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century or later and measures 76 x 99 cm including the fringes. The textile is hand-embroidered in silk thread in vivid colors on a green rayon ground with copper encrustations throughout, and edged on two sides with crocheted silk fringe. Couching stitch ("basma") is the embroidery technique. The textile is reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition is overall very good, but with some dye run and one small tear from the metal accents. The combination of abstract floral designs and moon-disc motifs are characteristic of Uzbek suzani.

A knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, made by Uzbeks. Diameter is 18 cm, circumference 51.5 cm. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This Uzbek embroidery dating from the early to mid 20th century is embroidered on a mauve linen background. Two embroidered bands are joined together in exceptionally fine cross stitch and satin stitch to form interlocking geometric motifs and chevrons in silk thread. Condition is excellent. 15.5 x 34.5 cm.

Measuring 5 x 17 inches (12.7 cm x 43.18 cm), this pair of embroidered bands from Afghanistan are dated to the late 20th century and are in good condition with one minor stain on one edge. Cobalt blue and vivid pink are the main colors executed in polyester thread in satin stitch.

The traditional embroidery of Kandahar ("khamak" in Pashto) is exquisitely fine and extremely labor intensive. A piece such as this one may take up to three months to complete due to the exceptionally detailed stitching technique. This is a panel from a man's shirt from Kandahar province, Afghanistan, and dates to the mid 20th century. Measuring 38.5 x 42 cm, the fine geometric designs are densely embroidered in a mustard silk thread with discrete cobalt highlights. The relief effect of the monochrome embroidery is enhanced by pulled work in satin stitch, so densely worked as to almost completely cover the linen fabric ground. The use of the counted-thread technique makes it extremely difficult to stitch directly onto the fabric, thus the linen on linen ground. This textile is extraordinary for the precision of the stitching and the sheen of the silk, which is worked to attract the light in different ways to optimal effect. It is in excellent condition given its age. Enlargement #12 shows the textile from the reverse side.

Living in the rough mountainous terrain of eastern Paktika and over the Pakistan border in Waziristan, the women of the Mangali tribe wear these leggings for protection. Loose, baggy trousers are tucked into them, and they are re-used until they wear out. Very thick bergundy silk thread is worked in horizontal rows on the top in cross stitch, and on the lower part in vertical bands of heavy whip stitch. Geometric patterns are superimposed in random coloring. The leggings are lined in purple cotton. Each legging measures approximately 19.7 cm x 27.3 cm (7¾ inches x 10¾ inches). The dark, heavy appearance of these leggings is transformed by the light touches of color which, though set in rows, appear haphazard. This pair of leggings is in excellent condition. Estimated age: Circa 1960.

A pair of hand-carved window frames from Bhaktapur, an ancient Newar city in the Kathmandu Valley. They measure 44 x 45.5 cm and are dated to the late 20th century. Woodwork has been part of Nepal’s traditional architecture and wood carvings have graced temples, monasteries, residential homes and palaces since the twelfth century, although the earliest surviving temple decorated with wood carvings, bears the date 1396. Another traditional architectural site, which is believed to have been built as a shelter for travellers in Kathmandu that still stands, was believed to date back to before 1143 but there is no evidence of its true date. In fact, the history of woodcarving in Nepal is older than that. Woodcarving in Nepal is an excellent example of Newari art. The Newari language comprises of a rich vocabulary of wood carving terms. Each component forms a part of a traditional pattern. Each detail of the craft has a name. The decorative work has to be very precise so that the countless pieces used to make up the pattern fit perfectly, because no glue or nails are used. Historic sources name a kind of wood called Dhusi or Chasi, meaning in Newari "as strong as a tiger". Today mainly agarth, chapa & sal wood is used, as there is plenty in and around the valley. Wood has been the traditional building material in the Valley not only used to form the heavy framework, which forms the essential part of the structure but beams, struts, pillars and roof supports. All the available wood surfaces on the buildings, including doors, windows, cornices, lintels and brackets are formed and carved into decorative patterns of geometrical, floral, animal and human forms.