Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian: Central Asian: Textiles (217)

This wallet from Afghanistan measures 15.5 x 31.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a pink satin ground. The embroidery technique is an intricately worked ladder stitch, with button hole stitches and corded silk tassels for closure. The purse is from Katawaz, in Ghazni province, with two interior pockets. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 15 x 16.5 this embroidered purse from Afghanistan is in excellent condition and dates to the mid to late 20th century. Silk thread on cotton, in satin stich and brick stitch. White beads on corded tassels surround the edges. Condition is excellent. Estimated age late 20th century.

With three inner compartments this vintage wallet from Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century and is lined with red printed cotton and heavily decorated with woven blue seed beads which act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. Silk thread is intricately worked in ladder stitch forming volute motifs accented with gold metallic braiding on an ivory linen background. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 15 x 26 cm this charming purse is completely hand-embroidered in silk thread on a polyester ground. The embroidery is a very finely worked ladder stitch combined with Romanian couching ("pokhtaduzi") so densely worked as to almost completely obscure the background fabric. The metal thread around the mirrors is fastened down at regular intervals with small holding stitches, producing a characteristic relief to the pattern. Blue seed beads on all the edges are intended to ward off the jinn from the wearer. Three inside pockets. The wallet is estimated age mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Silk tassels on a braided silk cord forms the closure.

Measuring 18 x 18.5 cm when closed, this embroidered purse from Baluchistan is called a "bushkiri" and would be used for storing or carrying valuables and bridal dowry gifts. Worked in a delicate combination of satin stitch and brick stitch in silk thread, the embroidered patterns are medallion, diamond and chevron combined with continuous zigzag forms. Tassels, braided cord, plastic beads and metal-wrapped thread with the interior lined in red printed cotton. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

A silk and cotton ikat-dyed chapan with padded and quilted cotton lining from northern Afghanistan. It is in excellent condition, measuring 137 cm across from one sleeve end to the other; arm opening: 26 cm; bust: 49 cm; gusset to sleeve opening: 47.5 cm; shoulder hem to bottom hem: 113 cm. Estimated age late 20th century.

Depicting swirling stylized floral discs in couching stitch ("basma") worked in silk thread on cotton, this pair of Uzbek tent hangings measure 16 x 100 cm. The elaborate tassels and wrapped cords are formed in silk thread, decorated with crown knots and silver metallic thread. They are in excellent condition.

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a dress panel made by Kuchi nomads from Afghanistan, with mirrorwork (shisha) and extensive beadwork. This textile represents the most common form of the amulet, the triangle. Decorative embroideries such as these are used as a protective element in central Asian cultures. The mirrors as shiny objects are incorporated into the embroidery and are believed to avert the evil eye, or reflect and hold its image thus absorbing the destructive powers. The beads trimming this textile also serve this purpose. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. 25 x 27 cm. Condition is good.

Traditionally the balisht was intended as a grain sack but its secondary use was that of a cushion. This one measures 33 x 66 cm and has a soft knotted and piled face and a wonderful unique kilim flat woven back which is decorated with colorful bands of chevron patterns mixed with narrow black and white geometrical patterns. The opening of the bag is at the top and the horse hair loops around the mouth of the bag were used for fastening the stuff inside the balisht. The surface has a lustrous sheen due to the soft, fine wool of the pile which is closely woven, giving a play of colors and velvety appearance unsurpassed by other nomadic rugs. Condition is excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

This is a densely beaded purse made by Pashtun nomadic women from Afghanistan depicting the ancient tree of life motif. It measures 12 x 19.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The beaded tassels are attached by cords made of metallic thread. The inside is lined with purple polyester fabric and features three pockets. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch accented with metallic braided trim. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 18.5 x 28 cm when opened and 18.5 x 19.5 cm when closed, this pair of purses are from Katawaz in Paktika province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is an intricate ladder stitch depicting whirling solar motifs combined with button hole stitches around the mirrors ("shisha"). The purses also feature beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") intended to ward off the evil eye - the same function performed by the mirrors. Silk thread on a green silk background. Condition excellent. Estimated age mid 20th century.

This hand-embroidered purse was made by Pashtun nomadic women of Katawaz in Ghazni province and measures 15.5 x 25.5 cm. The embroidery designs are a combination of eight-pointed stars and abstract wave and spiral motifs in fine ladder stitch, neatly arranged in a series of rectangular panels with gold braiding. Mirrors ("shisha") are expertly fastened down in an intricate ladder stitch and embellished with gold thread executed in Romanian couching (pokhtaduzi), where the small holding stitches are staggered across the length of the gold thread. The blue and white seed beads on tiny silk tassels frame the edges of the purse, not only for decorative effect but also to avert evil from the wearer. The purse is estimated to the date to the mid 20th century and is in perfect condition. It features two pockets lined with printed cotton fabric. Silk thread on a silk background.

This child's waistcoat was made in Kohistan which is located along the Karakoram Highway and on the Indus river in Pakistan. The textile measures 26 x 32 x 34 cm and is embroidered in acrylic thread on a fine black linen background. Silver amulets are incorporated into the textile to repel the evil eye ("djinn") and various coins adorn the bottom edge of the vest. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This is a museum quality embroidered wallet from Katawaz in Ghazni province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is called couching, where the gold metallic threads are meticulously laid down in neat parallel rows, and then fastened down at regular intervals with tiny orange threads...a very labor-intensive embroidery technique that cannot be accomplished with a sewing machine. Mirrors are strategically placed to ward off the evil eye ("djinn") and embellished with blue seed beads. The interior features two pockets and is lined with a printed cotton cloth from Russia. Blue seed beads frame the outer edges. The condition is very good with some minor wear to be expected of a textile this age. The piece measures 14 cm x 27 cm when fully elongated, 11.5 x 14 cm when closed. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This is a lady's purse from Bamiyan, Afghanistan, finely embroidered in silk thread. The Hazara excel in making very intricate geometric design embroideries executed in brick stitch. This purse has also some chain stitch and couching stich ("basma") on the reverse, which features three separate pockets. Condition is good with some staining on the front consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The purse measures 10.9 x 23.6 cm.

Measuring 46 x 47 cm this textile forms the bodice of a Hazarajat nomad's shirt (kamiz). The embroidery is an intricate combination of satin stitch (or straight stitch) and an extremely finely worked ladder stitch worked by hand on an ivory linen background. Mirrors ("shisha") are strategically placed to ward off the evil spirits ("djinn"). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.