Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

An Uzbek ikat-dyed silk ceremonial robe (chapan) from northern Afghanistan, quilted with cotton interlining. Condition is overall good, albeit with some minor staining. It is hand-sewn and densely embroidered along the front collar, bottom hem and wrist cuffs. The inside of the collar is lined with traditional Russian printed fabric. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Measurements are provided below. 136.5 cm from the neckline to the bottom hem (measured from the back of the coat); 37.5 cm measured from the base of the collar to the shoulder hem; 88.9 cm measured from the fullest part of the chest/bust; 68.6 cm sleeve length.

This cushion cover from Swat Valley measures 45 x 78.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The dark red embroidery depicts the typical ram's horn pattern seen not only in Swati embroideries but also in other Central Asian textiles. This pattern is juxtaposed with the repeating diamond motif - a stylistic feature of Swat and Hazara embroideries - seen here in the white checkered borders done in filling stitch and Holbein stitch. Silk floss thread on black cotton, in mostly long and short stitch.

Measuring 38.5 x 86 cm, this cushion cover from Hazara District in Pakistan is in excellent condition. As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley. However, these pieces are generally more complex in design and construction. On one face of this textile the space is stabilized by two central medallions set within an elaborate network of octagons, diamonds and ram's horns in perfect symmetry. These motifs are very tightly constructed and densely embroidered, with subtle variations in hue and the utilization of negative space to maximum effect. The other face depicts a grid of eight-pointed stars embroidered in subtle gradations of pink and purple. These pillow covers ("thakia") are traditionally made for weddings. Mostly long and short stitch, cross stitch and satin stitch in silk floss thread, on a light pink cotton background. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 27 x 29 cm, this embroidery from Afghanistan is composed of mostly satin stitch in silk thread. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent, no stains, no flaws of any kind.

This little girl's chemise was made by Uzbek women and measures 45 cm across the shoulders, 49 cm from the top to the bottom hem. Silk ikat combined with jajim and silk thread embroidered in long and short stitch. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 39 x 40.5 cm, this textile from Afghanistan astounds in its meticulous satin stitch in vibrant, multicolored silk thread. Condition is excellent. No stains, no odors, no flaws of any kind. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. "Consisting of, or generated from, such simple forms as the circle and the square, geometric patterns were combined, duplicated, interlaced, and arranged in intricate combinations, thus becoming one of the most distinguishing features of Islamic art. However, these complex patterns seem to embody a refusal to adhere strictly to the rules of geometry. As a matter of fact, geometric ornamentation in Islamic art suggests a remarkable amount of freedom; in its repetition and complexity, it offers the possibility of infinite growth and can accommodate the incorporation of other types of ornamentation as well..." see http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/geom/hd_geom.htm

Embroidered in vivid pink on olive cotton, this purse from Swat valley is 50-60 years old and in excellent condition. Geometric patterns embroidered in straight stitching in pink floss silk are outlined in yellow and white double running stitch, with accents of purple and cream. The purse measures 18 x 19.5 cm.

This child's dress front from Paktya province, Afghanistan measures 24 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting eight-pointed stars and amuletic motifs. Condition is excellent. Mid 20th century.

This lovely embroidery from Afghanistan measures 27 x 36 cm and depicts eight pointed stars in very fine cross stitch on a purple linen background, arranged in four quadrants. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

Measuring 8 x 36.5 cm, this embroidered band from northern Afghanistan was hand-embroidered by Uzbek women in an exceptionally fine cross stitch on a pumpkin linen background. Condition is excellent. Estimated age early to mid 20th century.

This Uzbek embroidery dating from the early to mid 20th century is embroidered on a mauve linen background. Two embroidered bands are joined together in exceptionally fine cross stitch and satin stitch to form interlocking geometric motifs and chevrons in silk thread. Condition is excellent. 15.5 x 34.5 cm.

This small Afghanistan textile is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch with repetitive triangular motifs in silk thread on a silk background. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly central Afghanistan (Ghazni and Bamiyan provinces). This piece was probably made during the winter months where the women are commonly cut off from the world for six months out of the year due to the extreme climate. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition is excellent. No stains, no flaws of any kind. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. It measures 20.3 x 20.8 cm.

Four eight-pointed stars are the central theme of this gorgeous textile made by Hazara women, dated to the mid 20th century. Hand-embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread on a tan cotton linen, it is the workmanship that marvels. The cross stitch on this textile can be more properly appreciated under a loupe. Each of the four eight-pointed stars is echoed by more eight-pointed stars and accented by triangular hooked motifs down the middle of the piece. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan and are Shi'a Muslims. Inhabiting mostly the central region of Afghanistan, embroidery is an important ritual for Hazara women who are isolated by cold and snow for as long as five months per year. This textile measures 22.5 x 23 cm and is in excellent condition.

This Pashtun nomad's pistol holster from Katawaz is embroidered in ladder stitching on a red silk background, depicting whorls and arabesque motifs in vibrant yellow, green, blue, purple and white. The holster is ornamented with mirrors and blue beads along the edges, blue beads being a traditional feature of Pashtun embroidery for protection against the blue evil eye. Silk and metallic thread with a printed cotton lining. Mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall very good with one small stain on the flap.

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch for carrying and storing valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This purse from Baluchistan measures 20.3 x 32.5 cm when opened, 19.2 x 20 cm when closed, and is dated to the early to mid 20th century. This densely worked purse features intricate repeating geometric patterns and colors worked in a delicate satin stitch, combined with a meticulously worked interlacing stitch on a fine linen ground. The renowned vibrancy of Baluchi embroidery can be seen in this piece by the complex division of the design into contrasting areas of densely worked embroidery, intricately arranged into a wider design field of triangular motifs. The vertical lines, divided by rows of chain stitch in black thread held by small white stitches, are typical of Baluchi work. Baluchistan is the largest but most sparsely populated province of Pakistan, largely inhabited by nomadic and semi-nomadic groups whose culture and traditions are quite distinct from the other ethnic groups of Pakistan. The condition of this purse is good, some discoloration on the purse flap.

A pair of sleeve cuffs from Katawaz in Ghazni province, early to mid 20th century. Measuring 36.2 x 54 cm, they are stitched in bergundy silk thread on two fine white linen cloths. The overall design is a densely arranged pattern of repeating whorl designs and curvilinear motifs, flanked by two eight-pointed stars on both ends. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch, a characteristic feature of the small purses from Katawaz. This textile is in very good condition but with a stain on one corner.

This man's wedding shawl (known as "malir", or "doshalo") is from Tharparker district in Sindh province and would be a gift from a bride and her family to the groom for his wedding day attire. It is basically an embroidered "ajrak", meaning a red handspun, mordant-dyed, resist-printed cotton, embroidered in the four corners with stylized peacocks symbolizing fertility, and randomly placed mirrors ("shisha") as accents. The embroidery is a combination of ladder stitch, satin stitch and chain stitch in silk thread, with some couching. These wedding shawls were originally produced in the village of Malir in the Tharparker district and are still being made in other villages of Tharparker. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The textile measures 59.5 x 93 inches (151.1 x 236.2 cm) and is in pristine condition.

Measuring 15.5 x 16 inches (39.4 x 40.6 cm), this textile from Kandahar, Afghanistan is embroidered in silk thread embroidery on a fine silk ground which is stitched onto a fine cotton linen panel. Depicting eight pointed star and rosette motifs in exquisitely fine satin stitching in counted-thread technique, the sheen of the silk is worked so that the light catches it in different settings, a characteristic feature of the embroidery ("khamak") of Kandahar. This textile is dated to the early to mid 20th century. Condition is almost perfect with only two stains on one side.