Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

Measuring 25.2 x 30 cm, this embroidered cloth from Jaghori in Ghazni province was made by Hazara women. It depicts in vibrant colors four eight-pointed stars and triangular hooked motifs down the center. The stitching is a combination of satin, herringbone and cross stitch, in silk thread. Embroidery is an important winter activity for the women of central Afghanistan, a mountainous region where villages can be isolated by snow for months. This textile is in perfect condition, and its estimated age is early to mid 20th century.

This embroidered shirt panel is typical of the traditional embroidery of Kandahar ("khamak") in its limited range of colors and its depiction of geometric motifs of traditional Islamic art. Silk thread in extremely delicate satin stitch in counted-thread technique on a fine silk background which has been stitched to a cotton linen. It measures 38 x 43.5 cm and is dated to the early 20th century. Condition excellent, only two inconspicuous stains on one side.

A woman's shawl from Waziristan dated to the early 20th century. Woven black cotton field with silk fringes, and intricate silk embroidery throughout. It measures 49 inches in width, 103.5 inches in length (124.5 cm x 262.9 cm). Condition is excellent, just some minor discolorations to be expected from a textile of this age. Waziristan ("land of the Wazir") is a mountainous region near the Northwest of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and covering some 11,585 km (4,473 sq mi). The area is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns who speak Pashto. It is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA), considered to be outside the country's four provinces.

In Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon (Dzongkha), the time spent in embroidering textiles is considerable and can involve as much as a year for certain ceremonial textiles such as this one with a black background, called a "napsham". Surprisingly, the intricacy of the woven design elements that closely resemble embroidery is created on looms, mostly backstrap looms. This textile measures 97 x 243 cm including the fringes and is embroidered in cotton yarn on a raw silk ground. Condition is near perfect albeit with some slight fading. Mid to late 20th century.

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch to store and carry valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This little purse is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch, brick stitch, and ladder stitch in silk thread, forming interlocking lozenge and chevron designs. Condition: some wear throughout. It measures 10 x 18 cm when opened, 9.5 x 10 cm when closed.

Embroidered on a dark purple silk, this pair of Pashtun tablecloths is from Ghazni province, Afghanistan. Each textile measures 27 x 27 cm and is animated by star motifs and repetitive whorl designs in a closely worked ladder stitch in silk thread, framed by gold-thread braid and gold-thread ribbon appliquéd onto the background. There is also some extremely fine metal thread couching on each piece, and beaded fringes all around the edges. A superb example of Pashtun embroidery. Condition is near perfect, but for some loose couching. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

A pair of decorative table cloths made by Pashtun women, with mirrored, beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") on each corner which serve as protective amulets. The blue bead edging is typical of Pashtun textiles, and is used extensively on purses and clothing as a prophylactic against the evil eye. Silk thread in vibrant colors has been applied in mostly herringbone stitch on a pink cotton background with cording. Each panel measures 26.5 x 26.5 cm. Condition of the pair is excellent. Circa mid to late 20th century.

A vintage silk purse with mirrors ("shisha"), embroidered in whorl designs in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. A neat example of the couching technique favored by the Pashtuns, where the metal threads form a neat grid of lines and then fastened down with staggered stitches. This purse is from Katawaz (Ghazni province) in Afghanistan. Condition: Excellent. This purse measures 13.5 x 16.5 cm and is decorated with blue turquoise beads along the edges.

Traditional geometric designs embroidered on a plain weave cotton animate this Hazara cloth from Afghanistan measuring 33 x 39 cm. Cross stitch in multicolored silk thread form an interlocking star pattern. Condition of the textile is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly Bamiyan province but also Orugzan and Ghazni provinces.

A small embroidered tobacco pouch ("kochor") from Indus Kohistan. Measuring 13 x 13 cm, in extremely fine cross, tent and satin stitching in silk thread, the edges and front surface embellished with red, green and white beadwork. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition: overall good but with some staining on the reverse. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The Indus Kohistan region extends from the border with Azad Kashmir in the east to Afghanistan's Nuristan province in the west. In Persian, Kohistan means "land of mountains" ("koh" meaning mountains, "istaan" meaning land of).

This is a vintage textile from Paktya province. It measures 28 x 29.5 cm and is estimated to date between early to mid 20th century. Silk thread is embroidered in extremely fine brick stitch and satin stitch on a tan linen background, depicting interlocking chevron and bricked lozenge motifs. Condition: Excellent.

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

This is an Uzbek embroidered cloth from northern Afghanistan. The motifs and colors are typical of the embroideries of Tajikistan and southern Uzbekistan (Sukhandarya). Cross stitch and satin stitch in pink, green, yellow and blue yellow silk thread. This textile was probably made for a dowry. It measures 29.5 x 30 cm. Condition: Excellent, no fraying, no stains, no odors. Estimated age: mid or late 20th century.

The fabric is fine cotton, solidly worked in brick and satin stitch in silk thread, the colors alternating between green and orange, pink, blue and purple. It measures 3 1/4 inches x 31 inches (8 cm x 78.5 cm) and is probably from either Ghazni, Jaghori or Nawur areas of Ghazni province, or else from Daykundi and Dayzangi in the province of Orugzan. The interlocking diamond motif and understated color arrangement are typical of Hazara embroidery. Circa early to mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent (no flaws, no stains, no tears).

This beautiful textile was made by Pashtun nomadic tribeswomen of Hazarajat. It measures 52 x 65 cm without the fringes (57 x 71 cm including the fringes). Shisha (mirrors) illuminate the textile and are fastened by buttonhole stitches, surrounded by volute designs worked in a very fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. The design composition is framed throughout with woven metal-thread braid with blue and white beads edging the textile. Condition: Excellent. Circa: mid 20th century.

A woman's dress panel from Baluchistan, densely embroidered in Holbein stitch, blanket stitch, chain stitch, and satin stitch in silk, cotton and metal thread. Most Baluchi women labor for years embroidering fine works of art for their daughters’ dowries. Small girls begin to learn basic stitches and patterns at about the age of six or seven years. They do not use charts or diagrams but instead create extremely complex designs from memory, often with assistance and suggestions from family members or neighbors. This textile measures 29.5 x 40 cm. Condition: Excellent. The diamond repeat pattern in columns is typical of these embroidered dress panels, which are sewn on to silk or cotton to form a dress called a pashk. the diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the Baluch language. The estimated age of this textile is late 20th century.

A woman's shirt front from Baluchistan, mid to 20th century, in a combination of blanket stitch, herringbone and satin stitch on green cotton in a diamond repeat pattern. It measures 30.5 x 47 cm. A dress ("pashk") covered with detailed embroidery is everyday attire for Baluch women. The embroidered diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the language of the Baluch. Condition: Excellent.

A pair of embroidered ankle bands from Turkmenistan, measuring 20.3 x 22.9 cm. Embroidery technique is extremely fine herringbone and satin stitch on an indigo silk background. Condition: Excellent. Circa early to mid 20th century.

This is a woman's dress panel ("pushk kurta") from Baluchistan, measuring 43 x 52 cm. Embroidered in silk thread in a combination of interlacing, herringbone, long and short stitch, and extremely fine satin stitch, it depicts diamond shape medallions ("paraiz zarto")and arched columns with intricately repeated geometric motifs which are typical of Baluch embroidery. The most intricate pushks are produced in Makran and other coastal areas of Baluchistan. This is a dazzling and beautiful textile in very good condition. In this part of the world women trim the painstakingly embroidered sections from worn clothing and reapply it to new garments.

An Uzbek mafrash panel from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk embroidery in cross stitch, measuring 16 1/4 x 40 1/4 inches (41.3 cm x 102.2 cm). Condition: Excellent. The reverse side of this textile is lined in purple silk with an ikat hem.

This vintage textile is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan and measures 25.5 x 26 cm. Embroidered in pastel-colored silk thread on a fine white linen, it depicts in satin stitch the triangular shapes that are typical of Hazara embroidery. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no tears, holes, stains). Estimated age: probably 1950-1960.

A knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, made by Uzbeks. Diameter is 18 cm, circumference 51.5 cm. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

An Uzbek knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Diameter 18 cm, circumference 50 cm. Condition very good except for two small tears on the rim.

A woman's cap from Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. Satin stitch in pink, white and yellow silk thread embroidered on green cotton, depicting stylized flowers resembling chrysanthemums. Diameter: 20 cm. Circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

This dress yoke from Bamiyan province measures 34.5 x 41 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in pink, yellow, green and purple silk thread. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This dazzling child's dress front was made by Pashtuns and is probably dated to the 1950s or 60s. The embroidery technique on this textile features couched metallic threads forming an intricate combination of linear and circular designs, so densely arranged as to almost completely obscure the dark purple silk ground. Composed of metallic embroidery (Bokhara couching), the gold thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. Measures 22 cm x 27.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

A child's shirt front from Ghazni province, circa early to mid 1960s, probably from Jaghori or Katawaz. Densely embroidered in extremely fine brick and satin stitch in silk thread on purple silk, the lozenge patterns are framed by Bokhara couching, where the metallic threads are laid in parallel and then fastened with tiny stitches, forming a relief pattern. Blue beads surround the edges, to protect against the evil eye. The waistbands are equally stunning in detail, embroidered in herringbone stitch on orange silk. This textile measures 25.5 x 27 cm when measured without the waistbands; with the waistbands included it measures 27 x 63 cm. Condition: Excellent. No fraying, no tears, no missing beads, no stains.

Measuring 30 x 32.5 cm, this child's waistcoat from Afghanistan is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread in geometric patterns, very typical of Hazara embroideries. However, as Bernard Dupaigne has noted, Pashtun and Hazara embroideries are sometimes difficult to distinguish due to the geographic proximity of both groups in the central region of Afghanistan. There is a style that incorporates the Hazara predilection for geometric designs in cross stitch, while the Pashtun influence is reflected in the typical Bokhara couching technique that frames the outer edges of this textile. Metallic threads are laid in parallel in satin stitch, with tiny stitches fastening the metallic thread at regular intervals to form a relief pattern. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine, slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by floral images interspersed with an abstract Lakai design neatly repeated. The motifs are densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders of this textile are embellished with twisted cotton fringes. Measures 25 x 75 cm on the right panel (including the fringes), 25 x 75 cm on the left panel. The back is lined at the top edge with printed green silk fabric. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

This vintage child's cap from Herat, Afghanistan measures 17 cm in diameter, 50 cm in circumference. It features satin stitch, herringbone stitch and ladder stitch in cotton thread. Condition: Near excellent, only two tiny sections of missing red thread around the rim (see photos). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

A hand-embroidered bag made by Pashtun nomads from Ghazni province (probably Katawaz), Afghanistan. Floral motifs combined with arabesques in herringbone stitch in silk thread on a purple silk background. The Bokhara couching technique is used to maximum effect, where the metallic threads are laid parallel to each other and fastened at regular intervals by tiny red stitches. Blue beads adorn the edges to ward off the evil eye. The interior of the bag is lined in a blue printed fabric. Measures 12.5 x 17 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century (probably early to mid 1960).

A Hazara prayer cloth from Wardak or Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, circa early 20th century. Satin stitch in multicolored silk thread on fine white linen. Squares and triangles are embroidered in complex symmetrical arrangements to form a very balanced, unified composition. Measures 32 x 32 cm. Condition: Very good, a small mend on the perimeter.

This densely embroidered purse is from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan and measures 12x25 cm when opened, 11x12.5 cm when closed. The metallic thread embroidery is not taken through the background fabric but applied onto it in satin stitches, laid parallel to each other and held down by tiny stitches in orange thread. This embroidery technique serves to create the curvilinear designs in relief. The core is red, green and aubergine silk velvet and the relief designs are neatly framed in by a band of emerald and metallic thread in satin stitch. The outer edges of the purse are trimmed with white beads. Printed cotton fabric lines the inside of the purse. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century (probably 1960s).

The fabric on this small purse from Bamiyan is cotton, solidly worked in brick stitch in silk thread, the colors alternating between celadon, pink, orange and red. Circa early to mid 20th century. The interlocking rhomboid design and hooked diamonds are typical of Hazara embroidery. This purse measures 10.5 x 18.5 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no stains, no flaws, no damage)

This attractive hand-embroidered purse from Bamiyan province measures 10.5 x 21 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. It is embroidered in brick stitch in silk thread of various colors. The motifs are meticulously worked diamond motifs surrounding hooked diamonds, quite typical of traditional Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan. Age: circa early to mid 20th century. Condition: Very good, two small stains under the button closure (see photos). Three pockets on the inside lined with floral print fabric.

This charming beaded purse is from Bamiyan, Afghanistan and measures 12 x 23.5 cm when opened, 10 x 12.5 cm when closed. Satin stitch, cross stitch and filling stitch in silk thread, depicting stylized floral motifs in vibrant colors. This textile is typical of Hazara embroidery in its dynamic use of color. The outer edges are embellished with pompoms and blue and orange beads, while the inside features Bokhara couching laced with gold thread (zardozi). The purse has two inside pockets lined with orange cotton. Condition: Excellent. Circa mid 20th century.

A small beaded purse made for storing kohl. Silk thread embroidered on cotton, worked in extremely fine satin stitch and filling stitch. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In Persian, Kohistan means Land of Mountains. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". This textile measures 8.5x10 cm when closed, when opened, 10x16 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This is a nice example of the ubiquitous "doga", embroidered talismans common to all the Turkic peoples of Central Asia. This amulet was made to protect the family from any evil influences from the world outside from affecting family health and harmony. This doga is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall good but there are some small sections of embroidery that are a little worn out. Cross stitch combines with satin and herringbone stitch to maximum effect in this unique little textile. The triangle measures 17.5 x 17 cm, with the tassles, 17.5 x 18 cm.

Embroidered on a brown plainweave cotton linen, this wedding food cover (lali posh) was made by the Lakai Uzbek residing near Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Six suns edged with waves (symbolizing power) are worked in blanket stitch and chain stitch in bright, multicolored silk thread, surrounded by free-flowing, stylized floral motifs. The rasberry silk fringe border on all sides is crocheted and the reverse side of the textile is lined with two separate panels of printed fabric from Russia. Condition: Excellent. Measures 68 x 69 cm (including fringe). Circa mid to late 20th century. There is some fraying on the back lining, but the the textile is in otherwise perfect condition.

Pompoms adorn the edges of this densely embroidered textile made by the Kakarh tribe of Afghanistan. Metallic couching combined with Holbein, herringone and satin stitching characterize this piece. The reverse side is lined in plainweave striped cotton. The Kakarh have descendants in western provinces of Pakistan but are mostly found in Afghanistan and eastern Iran. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 20 x 31 1/2 inches (50.8 x 80 cm). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

An exceptionally fine embroidered purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. The embroidery on this piece is basically metallic embroidery on both sides, with mirror stitching and fine metallic couching. The front side is comprised of Bokhara couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. The blue beads are there to ward off the evil eye. A unique piece, not likely to bore. Condition: Excellent. No stains, no flaws of any kind. The purse measures 6 1/4 x 11 1/2 inches (15.9 x 29.2 cm) when fully extended and elongated. When closed, it measures 5 x 6 1/4 (12.7 x 15.9 cm).

A Pashtun nomad's purse from Katawaz, Ghazni province, circa mid 20th century. There are blue beads along all the edges, used to ward off the evil eye. The purse has metallic trim along all the edges and fine Bokhara couching which covers the entire surface area, front and back. The beaded cord winds around the purse to keep it closed. There are two pockets inside, lined with red cotton fabric. The purse measures 6 x 11 inches when opened and elongated, 5 x 6 1/2 inches when closed. The workmanship on this charming textile is staggering. Condition: Excellent. No fraying, no missing beads, no stains.

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored cotton. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. This panel measures 13x13 inches (33x33 cm).

This is a textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, residing mainly in the mountainous central provinces of Bamiyan, Ghazni and Orugzan. This child's dress front measures 32.5 x 65 cm. Solidly worked in cross stitch in silk thread, with satin stich on the waistbands, glass beads on the outer edges, and framed by Bokhara couching in metallic thread. Traditional Afghan dress yokes have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Approximate age of this textile is mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

A densely beaded Uzbek purse, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif or Kunduz, northern Afghanistan. The designs are typical of Uzbek embroidery in which variations on geometric shapes are emphasized for talismanic effect. The purse is edged with gold trim and blue beads as a prophylactic against the evil eye. The purse is lined with green and pink silk, and a red cotton fabric. There are three pockets inside. Condition: Excellent. Measures 15x25 cm when opened, 12x15 cm when closed. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

Magenta silk thread is worked in mostly horizontal rows with geometric patterns superimposed in random coloring on this child's waistcoat from the early 20th century. It features metallic couching on the top and bottom edges, with blue beads in the front to ward off the evil eye. Satin stitch combines with Holbein and back stitch to accentuate the lozenge designs that cover the entire surface of each panel. The Mangal are the largest, and perhaps the most powerful and influential of Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan and over the Pakistani border in Waziristan. This charming textile is in excellent condition with three rows of missing beads (to be mended by the seller). The back panel is a plainweave striped cotton. The front of the shirt measures 29.8 x 33 cm, and each waistband measures 4 x 17.1 cm.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by whirling solar images edged with curvilinear and rounded wave-like motifs, densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders are embellished with twisted cotton fringes with beaded ends, a typical feature in Central Asian embroideries. This textile measures 9 1/2 inches x 28 inches on the right panel, 9 1/2 inches x 38 inches on the left panel. The back is lined in black cotton. Condition is excellent but for one inconspicuous stain on the right panel (on the magenta oval motif). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

Depicting whirling solar and cross motifs, this fringed panel is known as a "Lali posh", a food cover used to present flat bread loaves at traditional Uzbek weddings. Outlines of chain stitching are filled with rows of fine, angled blanket stitch in wool thread on a plain-woven wool cloth dyed a deep shade of madder red. Some overcast stitching joins the three separate paneled sections. This textile shows the dynamic use of line and color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. The piece measures 25 inches by 27 1/2 inches. Its estimated age is early to mid 20th century. Condition is good overall, though there is one small hole (see enlargement #9) and some sections of missing wool fringe.

Abstract floral patterns combine with medallion motifs in shades of dark red and pink in this kameez from the Hazara district, North West Frontier Province (recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Silk floss on cotton (a handwoven coarse cloth called khaddar), the embroidery is in the characteristic phulkari stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. Each cuff has an embroidered band in brick stitch. The tunic measures 37 1/2 x 68 inches while each sleeve measures 27 1/2 inches from the hem. Dated to the early or mid 20th century, its condition is very good except for some stains around the gussets and on the back.

An old prayer napkin from Afghanistan, measuring 10 x 11 inches. It features very fine stitching characteristic of Hazara embroideries - satin stitch on a white linen background, in silk threads (yellow, blue, orange, green and red). The embroidery on the reverse side of this textile is exactly identical to the front side. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent except for some minor stain on the reverse side, displayed in the last photo.

Patchwork quilts ("rilhi") are among the finest folk art coverlets in Pakistan. Sindhis have traditionally used them as ground covers at outdoor Sufi religious festivals. This rilhi is from Thatta and measures 75 1/2 inches by 95 inches. It is dated to the mid 20th century. Condition is excellent (no holes, stains, nor repairs).

This embroidered panel is a ceremonial food cover made by the Lakai, an Uzbek tribe living in small villages near the northern Afghanistan city of Kunduz. The Lakai came to Afghanistan in the 16th century but they were once also found in what is now Uzbekistan and southern Tajikistan. This textile is composed of stylized star and solar shapes embroidered in silk thread in fine angled blanket stitch and chain stitch on a red plain-woven cotton. These highly abstract designs are typical of Lakai embroidered textiles. This traditional wedding textile dates to the early to mid 20th century and measures 35 1/2 inches x 35 1/2 inches (90 x 90 cm). Condition: Excellent.

A boy's sleeveless waistcoat from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric with mostly white glass seed beads and multi-colored buttons. The vest measures 14 inches by 15 inches (35.6 cm x 38.1 cm) and is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross stitch in cotton thread, with some satin and back stitch forming diamond patterns and multi-colored triangles composed of several smaller triangles, each in a different color and with a contrasting border. The dominant color is red, then emerald green, orange, yellow and touches of royal blue. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

Measuring 6 inches x 8 inches (20.5 cm x 14.5 cm) including the beaded fringes, this dazzling purse is from Bamiyan and is probably dated to 1940 or slightly later. The purse features couched metallic threads, gold couching, mirrors, and beaded fringes. An intricate array of curvilinear and geometric designs almost completely covers the dark navy silk background. The purse is lined with silk fabric. A textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Pashtun embroidery but quite possibly as well of Hazara embroidery. For as Bernard Dupaigne has noted, the Hazara have developed a hybrid style that incorporates elements from their own embroidery traditions and those of their neighbors, the Pashtuns. This may also be the inevitable result of the geographical proximity of the Hazara and Pashtuns living in Ghazni and Uruzgan.

A hand-embroidered Hazara cloth from Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Silk thread on a white linen background executed in satin stitch. Condition is excellent. No flaws nor stains. Measures 31.3 cm x 31.8 cm.

A woman's wedding shawl from Indus Kohistan, circa mid 20th century. This elaborately decorated textile is embroidered in floss-silk thread on twill-woven, black cotton cloth. It is tightly constructed of two overlapping embroidered panels, each with white beaded fringing. The beads are mostly white, clear red and opaque turquoise. The embroidered patterns are accentuated with sequins and small mirrors encased in brass. The stitching on this texile is elaborate, a combination of a tiny cross stitch worked in patterns of minute squares at the top embroidered band (see last enlargement) and a longer satin/darning stitch reminiscent of the phulkari stitches of Hazara district. Interlocking rhomboid and triangular motifs dominate the piece, in deep pink, gold, orange, and two shades of green (emerald and apple green). The emerald green embroidery unfortunately appears as blue in the photos. The shawl is embellished also with gold couching at the top and bottom. Overall, the colors are mixed and evenly balanced to vivid effect. This texile measures 63 x 76 1/2 inches (160 x 194.3 cm).

A hand-embroidered Hazara prayer cloth, made to protect the prayer stone, with a stylized depiction of the prayer niche, probably from Ghazni or Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. This exquisite embroidery on a white linen background depicts the severed hands of Hazrat Abbas, alluding to the battle of Kerbala. Silk thread in bright colors executed in a fine satin stitch and tassles on each of the four corners. These cloths are used in prayer to place the forehead. Condition of this textile is near excellent except for the slight brown staining in the upper right hand corner. This textile measures 38.1 x 39.4 cm.

A finely embroidered textile from Afghanistan made by Hazara women, measuring 12 inches by 13 inches. Embroidered in silk thread in mostly filling stich and satin stitch on a white cotton linen background. Although the embroidery designs are geometric and simple, it is the constant change of color on each of the embroidered panels that animates this prayer cloth ("mohr posh"). Late 20th century.

A woman's dress bodice from Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by the Kakarh tribe. The Kakarh are primarily found in Baluchistan, where they still make up the majority of indigenous Pashtuns, but they also reside in the southern districts of Zabul province in Afghanistan as well as eastern Iran. This piece measures 18 x 56 inches (45.7 x 142.2 cm). Black, yellow and red pompoms accentuate the front of the bodice which is embroidered in satin and herringbone stitch. The vibrant colors also feature areas of metallic couching.

A Pashtun nomad's purse from Katawaz, Ghazni province, Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. This purse has three pockets with flaps and features blue and white beads all around the edges (blue beads are believed to ward off the blue evil eye). Fine silk ladder stitch in blue, green, orange, purple and bergundy, depicting whorl designs on a red silk background. The stylized, radiating designs are typical of Pashtun embroidery. The purse is embellished with many mirrors (shisha), sewn in mirror stitch, and the edges of each pocket are enhanced with gold metallic couching. The middle flap exhibits the dense beadwork in which the Pashtuns excel.