Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This wallet from Afghanistan measures 15.5 x 31.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a pink satin ground. The embroidery technique is an intricately worked ladder stitch, with button hole stitches and corded silk tassels for closure. The purse is from Katawaz, in Ghazni province, with two interior pockets. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This hand-embroidered purse was made by Pashtun nomadic women of Katawaz in Ghazni province and measures 15.5 x 25.5 cm. The embroidery designs are a combination of eight-pointed stars and abstract wave and spiral motifs in fine ladder stitch, neatly arranged in a series of rectangular panels with gold braiding. Mirrors ("shisha") are expertly fastened down in an intricate ladder stitch and embellished with gold thread executed in Romanian couching (pokhtaduzi), where the small holding stitches are staggered across the length of the gold thread. The blue and white seed beads on tiny silk tassels frame the edges of the purse, not only for decorative effect but also to avert evil from the wearer. The purse is estimated to the date to the mid 20th century and is in perfect condition. It features two pockets lined with printed cotton fabric. Silk thread on a silk background.

The Hazara embroidery of central Afghanistan is extremely fine, worked typically in brick stitch in diamond motifs surrounded by hooked diamonds. This purse was probably used to store a precious object such as the soil or holy stone brought from the holy city of Kerbala. This purse measures 13 x 22.5 cm when open, 9.6 x 13 cm when closed. Silk thread embroidered in brick stitch on cotton. Condition is excellent, and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century.

This little girl's chemise was made by Uzbek women and measures 45 cm across the shoulders, 49 cm from the top to the bottom hem. Silk ikat combined with jajim and silk thread embroidered in long and short stitch. Condition is excellent.

A vintage choli from Pakistan, circa late 20th century. Hand embroidered in red and gold metallic thread on black chiffon to form abstract patterns. The choli is lined inside. Condition is excellent.

This little Hazara purse from Afghanistan was designed to hold kohl or some other small item. Embroidered in fine brick stitch in various colors of silk with the edges fringed with white glass beads, the purse measures 12 x 12 cm with the flap closed. It is in excellent condition, dating to the late 20th century.

This is a museum quality embroidered wallet from Katawaz in Ghazni province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is called couching, where the gold metallic threads are meticulously laid down in neat parallel rows, and then fastened down at regular intervals with tiny orange threads...a very labor-intensive embroidery technique that cannot be accomplished with a sewing machine. Mirrors are strategically placed to ward off the evil eye ("djinn") and embellished with blue seed beads. The interior features two pockets and is lined with a printed cotton cloth from Russia. Blue seed beads frame the outer edges. The condition is very good with some minor wear to be expected of a textile this age. The piece measures 14 cm x 27 cm when fully elongated, 11.5 x 14 cm when closed. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Dated to the mid 20th century, this cushion cover (thakia) measures 15¼ inches x 30 inches (38.7 cm x 76.2 cm). As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley. However, these pieces are generally more complex in design and construction. This piece is embroidered on both sides with silk on a cotton background in a predominantly geometric pattern. On one side, the space is stabilized by two center diamonds and an elaborate grid of squares and diagonals with the borders in perfect symmetry. These embroidery patterns are very dense and tightly constructed, with strategic touches of color and the utilization of negative space to maximum effect. The other side is embroidered in varous shades of pink, purple and sage green silk threads in a predominantly fine satin stitch counted-thread work on a mustard yellow background. These pillow covers are traditionally made for weddings. The condition of the textile is very good with no stains but some slight discoloration on the yellow side.

A finely embroidered textile from Afghanistan made by Hazara women, measuring 12 inches by 13 inches. Embroidered in silk thread in mostly filling stich and satin stitch on a white cotton linen background. Although the embroidery designs are geometric and simple, it is the constant change of color on each of the embroidered panels that animates this prayer cloth ("mohr posh"). Late 20th century.

This is a woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat Valley, Pakistan. It measures 125 cm from one sleeve extended to the other; the gusset measures 24 cm; the bust 57 cm. From top shoulder to bottom hem it measures 91 cm. The sleeve opening is 17 cm. The embroidery technique is pink and red floss silk on indigo-dyed and black cotton depicting geometric shapes typical of the embroidery of the Swat Valley. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This is a woman's shift known as a "jumlo" from the remote Indus Kohistan area of northern Pakistan. Jumlos are among the most lavishly embroidered textiles in all of Asia and are usually worn with an embroidered shawl known as a "chuprai". This tunic is embroidered in silk floss thread on black cotton in extremely fine half cross-stitch ("petit point") and the surface darning stitch for which Swati embroidery is famous. It is further embellished with assorted metal trinkets, amulets and buttons, which are used extensively in the embroidery from this district. In addition to providing decoration, they act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. The gored and flounced skirt features no less than 350 inserted triangular panels. The textile measures 149 cm when measured across the shoulders and back from sleeve end to sleeve end. Measured from neck to flounce hem the length is 85.5 cm. Condition: Excellent, there are a few small moth holes in the skirt, the largest measuring 3 x 4.5 cm (under repair). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Measuring 63 x 88 inches (160 x 224 cm), this hand-embroidered wedding shawl from the remote region of Indus Kohistan in northeast Pakistan is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century. Worked in extremely fine cross stitch and satin stitch in silk thread in interlocking geometric motifs and embellished with beaded edges, a textile such as this may take up to six months to produce. This shawl is embroidered on a black cotton ground and is in excellent condition.

This lady's shawl from the Hazara region in Pakistan measures 105 x 224 cm including the fringes. The geometric patterns are hand-embroidered in straight stitching in vivid pink floss-silk with touches of light pink, outlined in yellow double running stitch on a black wool ground. The shawl is dated to the late 20th century and is in perfect condition.

A woman's cap from Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. Satin stitch in pink, white and yellow silk thread embroidered on green cotton, depicting stylized flowers resembling chrysanthemums. Diameter: 20 cm. Circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

Measuring 25.2 x 30 cm, this embroidered cloth from Jaghori in Ghazni province was made by Hazara women. It depicts in vibrant colors four eight-pointed stars and triangular hooked motifs down the center. The stitching is a combination of satin, herringbone and cross stitch, in silk thread. Embroidery is an important winter activity for the women of central Afghanistan, a mountainous region where villages can be isolated by snow for months. This textile is in perfect condition, and its estimated age is early to mid 20th century.

This dress yoke from Bamiyan province measures 34.5 x 41 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in pink, yellow, green and purple silk thread. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Traditional geometric designs embroidered on a plain weave cotton animate this Hazara cloth from Afghanistan measuring 33 x 39 cm. Cross stitch in multicolored silk thread form an interlocking star pattern. Condition of the textile is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly Bamiyan province but also Orugzan and Ghazni provinces.

This is a Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province in central Afghanistan. Circumference: 51.5 cm; Diameter: 18 cm. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in pink and yellow silk thread on a green polyester ground. Its condition is excellent given its age (mid 20th century). No spots, bleeding, etc.