Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

The stellar designs on this envelope-shaped purse is characteristic of the Pashtun embroidery from Katawaz province, renowned for its dense and meticulously worked ladder stitch. This small purse measures 14 x 26.5 cm when opened, 10 x 14.5 cm when closed. The silk embroidery is expertly worked on a deep purple silk ground, framed with blue glass seed beads, the interior lined in red printed cotton. Metallic thread is used as a decorative contrast to wonderful effect with buttonhole stitching, mirrors (shisha) and ladder stitch as accents. There is some fraying on the face to be expected from a piece dating to the mid 20th century.

The painstaking embroidery technique on this vintage Pashtun purse from Afghanistan is called "pokhtaduzi", or Romanian couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by tiny stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface area is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. The metallic thread is framed by metallic braiding and blue and white seed beads, intended to protect the wearer from the jinn. Condition is overall good, showing wear consistent with its age (estimated mid 20th century). 12.5 x 25 cm when opened, 11 x 12.5 cm when closed.

This vintage Pashtun beaded purse from the mid 20th century is embroidered in an extremely fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple polyester ground. The thread colors are mustard, violet and kiwi green. The purse is embellished with tiny blue seed beads on the edges which is a traditional feature of Pashtun embroideries. It is lined with red cotton fabric in the interior. Condition is excellent. Dimensions are 11.5 x 12 cm closed, 11 x 22 cm when open.

A man's woolen coat from the Pashtun Mangal tribe. Made from a locally handwoven patti cloth, these coats are decorated with woolen embroidery, in branching patterns. The archaic, stylized designs are reminiscent of the woolen garments and felts from Central Asia, which is not surprising given the continuous trade linking Afghanistan with Central Asia. The Mangal tribe straddle both sides of the Pakistan/Afghanistan border and live mostly in the provinces of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Khost and Paktya. This coat is ornamented with gold couching, braided embroidery in long and short stitch, chain stitch, and herringbone stitch. Circa mid 20th century. Condition of this textile is very good, with some wear on the sleeves. This textile measures 36" x 64 5/8" (91.44 x 164.15 cm) including the sleeves.

This Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan is called a "bolim posh" meaning a canopy held over the bride and groom at the wedding ceremony. Embroidered in couching stitch ("basma") in mostly silk thread on a fine linen ground, it measures 125 W x 134 cm L. Some minor staining consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The stylized sun discs and flowers suggest the influence of ancient Scythian forms (for similar examples see Janet Harvey's book Traditional Textiles of Central Asia, pp 122-123).

This is a hinggi from east Sumba, probably dated to the mid to late 20th century. The weave technique is warp ikat, plain woven and hand spun cotton. It measures 132.08 x 274.32 cm and is in immaculate condition. Ikat is a resist-dye method of patterning textiles. Prior to weaving, the maker ties the warp and/or weft threads tightly and immerses them in a dye bath. The tied sections resist the dye. When applied to several sections of threads in a sequence of dye baths, the method creates unique, vibrant and colorful patterns. This textile showcases the horse, which plays a huge role in the life of Sumbanese. Horses are their wealth and centuries ago the Sumbanese were trading their horses to the Chinese for ceramics (see The World of Indonesian Textiles by W. Warming and M. Gaworski, copyright 1981 Kodansha Int'l). The hinggi completes the attire of the Sumbanese horseman by functioning as a wrapper around his waist, which is held up by a wide leather belt, letting the fringed ends dangle between his legs. The textile is dyed with the traditional indigo blue from the young leaves of the indigo plant (indigofera tinctoria) and the prized kombu red from the roots of the mengkudu tree (morinda citrifolia). Both ends are fringed, though one end band at the top is turned over the rod in the catalog photo.

This wallet from Afghanistan measures 15.5 x 31.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a pink satin ground. The embroidery technique is an intricately worked ladder stitch, with button hole stitches and corded silk tassels for closure. The purse is from Katawaz, in Ghazni province, with two interior pockets. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 15 x 16.5 this embroidered purse from Afghanistan is in excellent condition and dates to the mid to late 20th century. Silk thread on cotton, in satin stich and brick stitch. White beads on corded tassels surround the edges. Condition is excellent. Estimated age late 20th century.

With three inner compartments this vintage wallet from Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century and is lined with red printed cotton and heavily decorated with woven blue seed beads which act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. Silk thread is intricately worked in ladder stitch forming volute motifs accented with gold metallic braiding on an ivory linen background. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 15 x 26 cm this charming purse is completely hand-embroidered in silk thread on a polyester ground. The embroidery is a very finely worked ladder stitch combined with Romanian couching ("pokhtaduzi") so densely worked as to almost completely obscure the background fabric. The metal thread around the mirrors is fastened down at regular intervals with small holding stitches, producing a characteristic relief to the pattern. Blue seed beads on all the edges are intended to ward off the jinn from the wearer. Three inside pockets. The wallet is estimated age mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Silk tassels on a braided silk cord forms the closure.

Measuring 10" x 15 1/4", this textile was made by Hmong women living in Laos. Machine embroidery, reverse applique combined with some tightlyworked hand embroidery for accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. The cushion is backed with a supple dark magenta pig suede and features an invisible side zipper for ease of dry cleaning. The pillow insert is 100% polyester fiber.

Measuring 18 x 18.5 cm when closed, this embroidered purse from Baluchistan is called a "bushkiri" and would be used for storing or carrying valuables and bridal dowry gifts. Worked in a delicate combination of satin stitch and brick stitch in silk thread, the embroidered patterns are medallion, diamond and chevron combined with continuous zigzag forms. Tassels, braided cord, plastic beads and metal-wrapped thread with the interior lined in red printed cotton. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Depicting delicate motifs in somber, predominantly blue-black combined with discrete touches of rusty red, this textile from the Savu Islands of eastern Indonesia is called a selindang. The shawls are worn by women over their shoulders, to complete their sarong attire. This textile is estimated to date to the late 20th century and is constructed by warp ikat, warp-faced, with fringes. It measures 71 x 191 cm and is in perfect condition. The dye is a natural indigo.

A silk and cotton ikat-dyed chapan with padded and quilted cotton lining from northern Afghanistan. It is in excellent condition, measuring 137 cm across from one sleeve end to the other; arm opening: 26 cm; bust: 49 cm; gusset to sleeve opening: 47.5 cm; shoulder hem to bottom hem: 113 cm. Estimated age late 20th century.

Depicting swirling stylized floral discs in couching stitch ("basma") worked in silk thread on cotton, this pair of Uzbek tent hangings measure 16 x 100 cm. The elaborate tassels and wrapped cords are formed in silk thread, decorated with crown knots and silver metallic thread. They are in excellent condition.

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a dress panel made by Kuchi nomads from Afghanistan, with mirrorwork (shisha) and extensive beadwork. This textile represents the most common form of the amulet, the triangle. Decorative embroideries such as these are used as a protective element in central Asian cultures. The mirrors as shiny objects are incorporated into the embroidery and are believed to avert the evil eye, or reflect and hold its image thus absorbing the destructive powers. The beads trimming this textile also serve this purpose. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. 25 x 27 cm. Condition is good.