Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

A small beaded purse made for storing kohl. Silk thread embroidered on cotton, worked in extremely fine satin stitch and filling stitch. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In Persian, Kohistan means Land of Mountains. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". This textile measures 8.5x10 cm when closed, when opened, 10x16 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This is a nice example of the ubiquitous "doga", embroidered talismans common to all the Turkic peoples of Central Asia. This amulet was made to protect the family from any evil influences from the world outside from affecting family health and harmony. This doga is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall good but there are some small sections of embroidery that are a little worn out. Cross stitch combines with satin and herringbone stitch to maximum effect in this unique little textile. The triangle measures 17.5 x 17 cm, with the tassles, 17.5 x 18 cm.

Embroidered on a brown plainweave cotton linen, this wedding food cover (lali posh) was made by the Lakai Uzbek residing near Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Six suns edged with waves (symbolizing power) are worked in blanket stitch and chain stitch in bright, multicolored silk thread, surrounded by free-flowing, stylized floral motifs. The rasberry silk fringe border on all sides is crocheted and the reverse side of the textile is lined with two separate panels of printed fabric from Russia. Condition: Excellent. Measures 68 x 69 cm (including fringe). Circa mid to late 20th century. There is some fraying on the back lining, but the the textile is in otherwise perfect condition.

Pompoms adorn the edges of this densely embroidered textile made by the Kakarh tribe of Afghanistan. Metallic couching combined with Holbein, herringone and satin stitching characterize this piece. The reverse side is lined in plainweave striped cotton. The Kakarh have descendants in western provinces of Pakistan but are mostly found in Afghanistan and eastern Iran. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 20 x 31 1/2 inches (50.8 x 80 cm). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

An exceptionally fine embroidered purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. The embroidery on this piece is basically metallic embroidery on both sides, with mirror stitching and fine metallic couching. The front side is comprised of Bokhara couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. The blue beads are there to ward off the evil eye. A unique piece, not likely to bore. Condition: Excellent. No stains, no flaws of any kind. The purse measures 6 1/4 x 11 1/2 inches (15.9 x 29.2 cm) when fully extended and elongated. When closed, it measures 5 x 6 1/4 (12.7 x 15.9 cm).

A Pashtun nomad's purse from Katawaz, Ghazni province, circa mid 20th century. There are blue beads along all the edges, used to ward off the evil eye. The purse has metallic trim along all the edges and fine Bokhara couching which covers the entire surface area, front and back. The beaded cord winds around the purse to keep it closed. There are two pockets inside, lined with red cotton fabric. The purse measures 6 x 11 inches when opened and elongated, 5 x 6 1/2 inches when closed. The workmanship on this charming textile is staggering. Condition: Excellent. No fraying, no missing beads, no stains.

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored cotton. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. This panel measures 13x13 inches (33x33 cm).

This is a textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, residing mainly in the mountainous central provinces of Bamiyan, Ghazni and Orugzan. This child's dress front measures 32.5 x 65 cm. Solidly worked in cross stitch in silk thread, with satin stich on the waistbands, glass beads on the outer edges, and framed by Bokhara couching in metallic thread. Traditional Afghan dress yokes have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Approximate age of this textile is mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

A densely beaded Uzbek purse, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif or Kunduz, northern Afghanistan. The designs are typical of Uzbek embroidery in which variations on geometric shapes are emphasized for talismanic effect. The purse is edged with gold trim and blue beads as a prophylactic against the evil eye. The purse is lined with green and pink silk, and a red cotton fabric. There are three pockets inside. Condition: Excellent. Measures 15x25 cm when opened, 12x15 cm when closed. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

Magenta silk thread is worked in mostly horizontal rows with geometric patterns superimposed in random coloring on this child's waistcoat from the early 20th century. It features metallic couching on the top and bottom edges, with blue beads in the front to ward off the evil eye. Satin stitch combines with Holbein and back stitch to accentuate the lozenge designs that cover the entire surface of each panel. The Mangal are the largest, and perhaps the most powerful and influential of Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan and over the Pakistani border in Waziristan. This charming textile is in excellent condition with three rows of missing beads (to be mended by the seller). The back panel is a plainweave striped cotton. The front of the shirt measures 29.8 x 33 cm, and each waistband measures 4 x 17.1 cm.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by whirling solar images edged with curvilinear and rounded wave-like motifs, densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders are embellished with twisted cotton fringes with beaded ends, a typical feature in Central Asian embroideries. This textile measures 9 1/2 inches x 28 inches on the right panel, 9 1/2 inches x 38 inches on the left panel. The back is lined in black cotton. Condition is excellent but for one inconspicuous stain on the right panel (on the magenta oval motif). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

Depicting whirling solar and cross motifs, this fringed panel is known as a "Lali posh", a food cover used to present flat bread loaves at traditional Uzbek weddings. Outlines of chain stitching are filled with rows of fine, angled blanket stitch in wool thread on a plain-woven wool cloth dyed a deep shade of madder red. Some overcast stitching joins the three separate paneled sections. This textile shows the dynamic use of line and color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. The piece measures 25 inches by 27 1/2 inches. Its estimated age is early to mid 20th century. Condition is good overall, though there is one small hole (see enlargement #9) and some sections of missing wool fringe.

Abstract floral patterns combine with medallion motifs in shades of dark red and pink in this kameez from the Hazara district, North West Frontier Province (recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Silk floss on cotton (a handwoven coarse cloth called khaddar), the embroidery is in the characteristic phulkari stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. Each cuff has an embroidered band in brick stitch. The tunic measures 37 1/2 x 68 inches while each sleeve measures 27 1/2 inches from the hem. Dated to the early or mid 20th century, its condition is very good except for some stains around the gussets and on the back.

An old prayer napkin from Afghanistan, measuring 10 x 11 inches. It features very fine stitching characteristic of Hazara embroideries - satin stitch on a white linen background, in silk threads (yellow, blue, orange, green and red). The embroidery on the reverse side of this textile is exactly identical to the front side. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent except for some minor stain on the reverse side, displayed in the last photo.

Patchwork quilts ("rilhi") are among the finest folk art coverlets in Pakistan. Sindhis have traditionally used them as ground covers at outdoor Sufi religious festivals. This rilhi is from Thatta and measures 75 1/2 inches by 95 inches. It is dated to the mid 20th century. Condition is excellent (no holes, stains, nor repairs).

This embroidered panel is a ceremonial food cover made by the Lakai, an Uzbek tribe living in small villages near the northern Afghanistan city of Kunduz. The Lakai came to Afghanistan in the 16th century but they were once also found in what is now Uzbekistan and southern Tajikistan. This textile is composed of stylized star and solar shapes embroidered in silk thread in fine angled blanket stitch and chain stitch on a red plain-woven cotton. These highly abstract designs are typical of Lakai embroidered textiles. This traditional wedding textile dates to the early to mid 20th century and measures 35 1/2 inches x 35 1/2 inches (90 x 90 cm). Condition: Excellent.

A boy's sleeveless waistcoat from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric with mostly white glass seed beads and multi-colored buttons. The vest measures 14 inches by 15 inches (35.6 cm x 38.1 cm) and is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross stitch in cotton thread, with some satin and back stitch forming diamond patterns and multi-colored triangles composed of several smaller triangles, each in a different color and with a contrasting border. The dominant color is red, then emerald green, orange, yellow and touches of royal blue. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

Measuring 6 inches x 8 inches (20.5 cm x 14.5 cm) including the beaded fringes, this dazzling purse is from Bamiyan and is probably dated to 1940 or slightly later. The purse features couched metallic threads, gold couching, mirrors, and beaded fringes. An intricate array of curvilinear and geometric designs almost completely covers the dark navy silk background. The purse is lined with silk fabric. A textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Pashtun embroidery but quite possibly as well of Hazara embroidery. For as Bernard Dupaigne has noted, the Hazara have developed a hybrid style that incorporates elements from their own embroidery traditions and those of their neighbors, the Pashtuns. This may also be the inevitable result of the geographical proximity of the Hazara and Pashtuns living in Ghazni and Uruzgan.