Catalog: Estate Jewelry (461)

This classic Art Deco ring is composed of two half-moons of carnelian flanking a vertical row of marcasites. The carnelian is secured by four split prongs, and there is an embossed scroll design along both sides of the shank that shows a bit of wear. The bottom part of the band exhibits a small applied piece of silver, most likely from sizing. The inside of the band is marked sterling. The oval top of the ring measures about 3/4 inch by 5/8 inch. It is sized at a 4 1/4.

Here is a mid-20th century handmade ring of two types of wood mounted in a sterling silver frame. The wood is carved into small squares. The rectangular top is soldered to a sterling band and rises about 1/2 inch from the finger. The ring is unmarked, but tests for sterling. The top of the ring measures 3/4 inch long by 5/8 inch wide. The ring is sized to a 7.

This long, continuous chain is made of white metal links that test very slightly for silver; it is probably European. It is constructed of multiple flat, rope-like loops that intersect to form four lobes. It hangs 36 inches from the neck, and can be worn in a variety of ways – knotted, doubled, tripled, or tied loosely around the neck like a lariat necklace. It measures 1/4 inch wide. Weight: 91.2 grams

This sterling silver pin is composed of a stem with four leaves, two of them with incised veins, and a stylized bulrush applied to the back. The clever bulrush design is made of curled silver wire wound around a curving silver rod. The back bears the mark of Anton Michelsen, Copenhagen, Denmark, as well as the name ‘Rougie,’ which may refer to the design or the designer, Gertrud Engel. Engel designed a series of naturalistic pieces for Michelsen during the 1950s based on plant life along the Danish coast. The pin has its original rollover clasp and stem, which are in good working order. It measures about 2 1/4 inches long by a little over 2 1/2 inches wide from one leaf tip to the other. Weight: 15 grams

This bracelet was made by an unknown jeweler who produced a variety of pins and bracelets, often decorated with his signature applied calla lilies and gold-filled leaves. Each calla lily is hand-applied to a horizontal frame, alternating with vertical rectangular panels with a lightly hammered look. The connecting links are securely soldered; the safety chain is original and attaches with a spring ring. The bracelet’s clasp consists of a flat folded piece of silver that firmly hooks onto a squared ring soldered to the other end. The hook is marked sterling; the other end is marked sterling & 1/20 12K.G.F. The bracelet measures 7 1/2 inches long by 3/4 inch wide. (For another example of this maker’s work, see Item #830376.) Weight: 31.3 grams

These quirky figural sterling silver pins and earrings are formed as separate head. While the faces are similar in their prominent features, one head wears a tall, pointed headdress, while the other wears a turban-like headpiece. The pins show marks on the surface from being hammered into the mold; they are finished with applied backs. Each earring is formed to match the face of one of the pins. The pieces are all marked Made in Mexico/Sterling — even the earring screw backs — and are conservatively dated around 1950. The pins have very secure C-clasps. Measurements (all length by widest part): tall head, 3 3/4 inches by 1 inch, 15.9 grams; turban head, 1 7/8 inches by 1 3/8 inches, 13.3 grams; tall earring, 1 3/4 inches by 3/4 inch; turban earring, 1 inch by 1 1/8 inches; both earrings, 10.1 grams total.

These handmade, two-sided cufflinks each feature a square piece with an incised geometrical design connected by a figure-8 to a dome-shaped piece. The links are very securely soldered to each side; there is a tiny ‘ding’ to one dome. The squares measure about 5/8 inch and are marked Sterling and Taxco. Weight: 8.1 grams total

This 1960s-70s wide copper bangle bracelet is unsigned, but nicely designed with four applied discs around the exterior for a clean, modernist look. It is sturdily constructed, thick enough so the shape is intact, and with a quality spring hinge and a small tongue and groove type of feature at the terminals to keep the pieces in place when closed. There are minor areas of discoloration at the edge of two discs; wear to the finish is minimal. The bangle measures 1 5/8 inches wide, with an oval opening measuring a little over 2 1/4 inches across, and an internal circumference of 7 1/2 inches.

This sterling silver pin is formed as a Mexican peasant lugging a large basket of fruit on his back. It is deeply molded and enhanced with oxidation and of hollow construction. The sturdy clasp features a machine-age look, and the pin stem has a lever that causes it to spring open when released. The pin dates from 1950 through the 1930s and is marked Silver/Mexico on the reverse. It measures 2 inches long by 1 1/4 inches at its widest part. Weight: 12.6 grams

Here is a stunning example of California maker Francisco Rebajes’ jewelry designs. The necklace is constructed of stylized leaves linked by folding the top of one over the next, to produce a sinuous movement. The silver-plated finish is brushed to soften the patina, and shows some tarnish. The tongue-and-groove clasp is in good working order, and bears the Rebajes mark. The necklace measures just under 16 inches long by 3/4 inch wide.

This smart bar pin features loops on either side of an oval cabochon chrysoprase. It has a nice heft, and the stone is securely bezel-mounted. The back shows a sterling mark, as well as an unidentified maker’s mark of T&B or K&B. The rollover clasp is in good working order, and the stone is very slightly scratched. A well-constructed lapel or shoulder pin of clean, simple design, it measures 2 1/4 inches long by just under 1 inch wide at the center.

Composed of eight vertical panels connected by brass circular links, this bracelet is enameled with large gold dots on a white background. The reverse features gold venous enameling on black. There are no chips or cracks to the enamel; there is no signature, but the bracelet appears to be professionally made, similar to a Kay Denning piece. The fold-over clasp is secure and made of a yellow metal. Connecting links are strong but not soldered. The bracelet measures just over 7 inches, including the clasp, by 1 3/4 inches wide.

Here are two charming sterling silver scatter pins formed as ladies’ heads complete with bonnets and flowing hair. They are typical of the highly detailed cast work of Unger Bros., of Newark, NJ, during the Art Nouveau period. Both have secure C-clasps; one looks to have been replaced, perhaps during the 1920s. The fine features are intact and the maker’s mark well struck. Each pin measures 3/4 inch long by 5/8 inch wide. 4.4 grams total

This sturdy, nicely made sterling silver bracelet is composed of incised openwork sections securely linked by small rods. The tongue and groove clasp, with push-button release, is in good working order; the safety chain appears to be original. The marks are well struck, and possibly indicate the work of the Taxco maker Beto. The bracelet measures about 7 1/2 inches long (excluding clasp) by 3/4 inch wide. Weight: 50.9 grams

This necklace is a nice example of Renoir’s early enameled copper line known as Matisse. The mottled red and white enamel is opaque, as opposed to the translucent, glassy work that characterized the firm’s later enameled jewelry. The overall design is reminiscent of the abstract expressionist art of the 1950s. There is some wear to the rounded copper elements alternating with the curved enameled panels, and a bit of loss to small areas of the panels where the copper comes through (the tiny black spots are embedded in the enamel, and are not damage). The back of the necklace shows serious wear to the copper. The necklace is unsigned and measures 15 inches long, including the unusual scored-link chain.

Constructed of a single strand of solid, chromium-plated white metal, this bangle bracelet is a marvel of modern design and could date as early as the 1930s. The flexible metal allows each end to be folded over the other three rings, secured by balls at each end, and enables the bracelet to expand or contract as the wearer desires. There is some surface wear that is hard to see when the bracelet is worn. It is designed for a very comfortable fit. The bangle is not marked, but most likely is a studio piece. Interior circumference is about 8 inches; bracelet diameter is about 3 inches.

This stunning copper bracelet is well constructed with an unusual (for copper) heft when worn. The design features an alternating series of curled bands linked into hollow curved tubes. A secure fold-over clasp completes the look. The bracelet, which is unsigned, measures about 2 inches wide by nearly 8 inches long. There is some wear to the back of the bracelet; the front shows very little wear, with a nice patination between the curls for a dramatic effect.

Made from colorful Scottish chalcedonies and set with a warm, orange-brown Scottish citrine, this late 19th-century brooch typifies a design that was extremely fashionable during the Victorian era. All the stones are in lovely condition and securely set; the faceted cairngorm, or citrine, is held in place by sterling silver engraved straps. The red chalcedonies are sharply cut into pyramids, alternating with inset green triangular pieces of agate that look to be bloodstone. The stones show no serious wear such as scratching, chips or cracks. Two of the triangular agates show minor loss along one edge. The C-clasp bears the original solder and is very secure. The brooch is unmarked and measures 1 7/8 inches in diameter.