Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian (16)

This bold bracelet, probably American, has a modern sensibility that belies its ca. 1890 origins. It is composed of a polished hollow sterling silver curb chain with a sterling heart-shaped padlock closure. This padlock has no key but can be opened simply by a gentle tug on the lever mechanism and a gentle push to close. The chain has no marks (though tests for sterling); the top of the padlock indicates sterling, which suggests an American origin. The chain is undecorated and has no dented or misshapen links aside from a very minor impression one of the terminal links that attach to the padlock. The padlock has one long scratch on the front, visible in the photo; it is less visible to the eye. The bracelet measures 8 inches long (excluding the clasp) and 5/8 of an inch wide. The padlock measures approximately 3/4 inch across. Weight: 38 grams

This lovely sterling silver pin is a classic example of the Japanisme influence popular during the Aesthetic Movement of the late 19th century. It features embossed images of a dragonfly and two delicate plants as well as tiny marks emulating Asian characters, all on an irregular-shaped disk. Made by George W. Shiebler of New York City, the molding is sharp and detailed; it does appear to have a secure rollover clasp that would have replaced the original C-clasp. Besides the Shiebler mark, the reverse is marked for sterling silver and exhibits the number 1410. The pin measures 1 5/8 inches across. Weight: 17.2 grams

A very delicate and colorful bracelet, featuring gilded silver filigreed panels enhanced with blue and green enamel. The enamel is in lovely condition, with only tiny areas of loss. The tongue-and-groove clasp is very secure and shows some wear due to use (the clasp is silverplated). There is also a gold-filled safety chain not original to the bracelet. The tongue is marked 800 for silver content, and the Italian silver registry mark indicates either CE for Caserta or GE for Genoa and a date range of 1944-1968. This piece is probably 1950s-1960s. The bracelet measures 6 ¼ inches long by 5/8 inch wide.

Each of these five late 19th-century heart charms is decorated with embossed scrolls; included is also an engraved faux lock of the same period. The hearts are identical, with one showing minor impacts; the lock looks to be hardly worn. All have their bails intact and are marked sterling on the back. Each heart measures 1/2 inch wide by 3/4 inch long, including the bail; the locket measures just under ½ inch wide by 5/8 inch long. Weight: 4.8 grams total

A distinctive, eclectic design of various size rings and impressed floral elements, probably ca. 1920. The chain tests strongly as sterling silver and is highly patinated, resembling gunmetal. It is unmarked and does not have a clasp. Doubled, the chain measures 16 ½ inches long. Weight: 58.9 grams

Constructed as mold-pressed disks with raised reserves and scrolled borders. The disks test as sterling; the removable bridge bars are marked sterling. All connecting rings are original, as are the bridge bars. Each disk button measures ½ inch in diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams total

This impressive French silver chain is hand-worked with applied textured silver wire intertwined among bow-like links. It was made at the turn of the 20th century, and is a fine example of the lovely handmade chains that were produced in Paris at the time. The links are delicate; each bow-like element measures just under 1/2 inch long and 3/16 inch wide. The chain has an attached spring ring clasp, which bears a tiny French silver mark on the bail--hard to see in the picture, but it can be seen with a loupe or magnifier as a boar head for .800 silver. The clasp is original; the jump ring has been re-positioned to secure the chain; originally, the clasp would have been used to attach a lorgnette, for instance, and attached mid-chain. With the clasp at the end, the chain can be wound three times around the neck if preferred, as opposed to just doubled. Unclasped, the chain measures a little over 55 inches long, end to end. Weight: 32.4 grams

Composed of mold-pressed gilded sterling silver, these handsome, 19th-century cuff links are formed as pointed oblong buttons, decorated with pale blue enameled scrolls and flowers. They are linked by removable S-formed bridges, and both are marked sterling. Each button measures about 1 inch long and ¼ inch at its widest part. Weight: 6.1 grams

Charming sterling silver bracelet composed of a series of square panels embossed with scrollwork. A sterling embossed ball is suspended from the safety chain, which detaches by means of a hook. Each panel is molded hollow, with edges rolled under. The bracelet is lightweight, but substantially made; the tongue-and-groove clasp is secure, and bears the patent date of Sept. 6, 1887. When closed, the bracelet sits a little unevenly where the tongue fits into the groove; this appears to have been a result of its production, and is not obvious when worn. The bracelet measures 6 3/8 inches long and 3/8 inch wide. Weight: 12.2 grams

This classic sterling silver 19th-century bangle is decorated with an applied buckle and belt motif that features engraved leaves on a scored background. There is an engraved leaf on each side of the buckle decoration; the back is undecorated and exhibits a minor dent. The tongue and groove clasp is secure and the hinge is in excellent condition. The inside is marked only ‘Sterling Silver.’ The bracelet measures nearly ¾ inch wide, with an internal circumference of a little over 6 ½ inches. The opening measures 2 1/8 inches across. Weight: 25.7 grams

Delicately engraved with flowers and stylized ruffles at the rims, this sterling silver bangle bears the hallmarks for Birmingham, 1884, and a maker’s mark of WH (or HM). It has a safety chain to which a larger link has been added. The tongue-and-groove clasp is very secure, and snaps together tightly. The hinge is in excellent working condition. There are minor surface scratches. The bangle is an oval, measuring 2 3/8 inches by 1 7/8 inches inside; interior circumference is about 7 inches. The bracelet is 3/4 inch wide. Gross weight: 21.9 grams

This late 19th-century English sterling brooch features a circular design enhanced with twisted silver wires and silver beads, surrounding a globular center. The surface has a beautiful, warm patina and is in lovely condition. It has a secure C-clasp and hinge; the hinge shows a bit of metal stress, but is in good working order. The locket glass and silver frame are still intact. The brooch appears to be unmarked; it is possible it could be marked under the locket back. There is a tiny scratch on the edge of the front. It measures a little over 1 1/2 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch deep. Gross weight: 13.9 grams

Here are two charming sterling silver scatter pins formed as ladies’ heads complete with bonnets and flowing hair. They are typical of the highly detailed cast work of Unger Bros., of Newark, NJ, during the Art Nouveau period. Both have secure C-clasps; one looks to have been replaced, perhaps during the 1920s. The fine features are intact and the maker’s mark well struck. Each pin measures 3/4 inch long by 5/8 inch wide. 4.4 grams total

Made from colorful Scottish chalcedonies and set with a warm, orange-brown Scottish citrine, this late 19th-century brooch typifies a design that was extremely fashionable during the Victorian era. All the stones are in lovely condition and securely set; the faceted cairngorm, or citrine, is held in place by sterling silver engraved straps. The red chalcedonies are sharply cut into pyramids, alternating with inset green triangular pieces of agate that look to be bloodstone. The stones show no serious wear such as scratching, chips or cracks. Two of the triangular agates show minor loss along one edge. The C-clasp bears the original solder and is very secure. The brooch is unmarked and measures 1 7/8 inches in diameter.

This colorful bracelet is made of various Scottish chalcedonies set in sterling silver bezel mountings, for a total of seven panels. Each panel features four raised pieces of bloodstone set in individual mounts; the centers are set with a pointed and faceted piece of chalcedony in shades of red, white, brown, and blue-gray. All pieces of chalcedony are intact, with no loss; the backs exhibit only very minor scratches in the silver. The bracelet links are secure, as is the tongue-and-groove clasp. There are no marks. The bracelet measures 7 1/2 inches long (clasp not included) and 3/4 inch wide.

This Victorian sterling silver hinged bangle bracelet has hallmarks for Birmingham, 1884, and the unidentified maker’s mark of RJD. It is richly decorated with an applied embossed band of tiny starbursts within ovals, rimmed with delicate openwork. There is some roughness at the clasp, but it is secure and the pieces of the bracelet fit together nicely with a strong click. There is a shallow area of impact on the back near the clasp that is very hard to notice, as well as some scratches that contribute to the softened patina. Interior circumference is about 6 3/4 inches, and diameter is 2 1/4 inches; the bangle width is 3/4 inch. Gross weight: 24.6 grams