Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (346)

This colorful bracelet is made of various Scottish chalcedonies set in sterling silver bezel mountings, for a total of seven panels. Each panel features four raised pieces of bloodstone set in individual mounts; the centers are set with a pointed and faceted piece of chalcedony in shades of red, white, brown, and blue-gray. All pieces of chalcedony are intact, with no loss; the backs exhibit only very minor scratches in the silver. The bracelet links are secure, as is the tongue-and-groove clasp. There are no marks. The bracelet measures 7 1/2 inches long (clasp not included) and 3/4 inch wide.

This dramatic choker necklace of sterling silver and applied copper has a Southwest feel, combining both Mexican and Native American design elements. The individual angular panels feature applied wires formed as spirals with silver beads at the end; the dangling curved panels bear applied fan-like copper designs. The necklace is completely handmade, down to the bands connecting each panel and the rings that suspend each pendant. The surfaces are highly oxidized, and the degree of cleaning will depend on the aesthetics preferred by the new owner. Regardless, it's truly a piece of wearable art and few of its kind probably exist. Dating could be anywhere from the 1930s to the early 1950s, and it is marked only sterling on the back of one pendant. The necklace has a total length of approximately 16 1/4 inches; the width is about 3/4 inch. Weight: 59.4 grams

Made from colorful Scottish chalcedonies and set with a warm, orange-brown Scottish citrine, this late 19th-century brooch typifies a design that was extremely fashionable during the Victorian era. All the stones are in lovely condition and securely set; the faceted cairngorm, or citrine, is held in place by sterling silver engraved straps. The red chalcedonies are sharply cut into pyramids, alternating with inset green triangular pieces of agate that look to be bloodstone. The stones show no serious wear such as scratching, chips or cracks. Two of the triangular agates show minor loss along one edge. The C-clasp bears the original solder and is very secure. The brooch is unmarked and measures 1 7/8 inches in diameter.

The bold design of this cuff features Viking influences, with embossed traditional patterns on an oxidized background. The terminals are curved for easily slipping the piece over the wrist, and there are applied triangular plaques where a safety chain was attached. The bracelet is inscribed inside and dated 1967. The Georg Jensen post-1945 mark appears on the edge of one terminal, and the design number 78 is on the other. There is a 1/16-inch impact under one edge (see photo 5). The cuff has a 7-inch internal circumference; there is a 1-inch gap between the terminals, the band measures ¾ inch wide and the opening measures 2 ¼ inches across. Weight: 48.8 grams

This impressive French silver chain is hand-worked with applied textured silver wire intertwined among bow-like links. It was made at the turn of the 20th century, and is a fine example of the lovely handmade chains that were produced in Paris at the time. The links are delicate; each bow-like element measures just under 1/2 inch long and 3/16 inch wide. The chain has an attached spring ring clasp, which bears a tiny French silver mark on the bail--hard to see in the picture, but it can be seen with a loupe or magnifier as a boar head for .800 silver. The clasp is original; the jump ring has been re-positioned to secure the chain; originally, the clasp would have been used to attach a lorgnette, for instance, and attached mid-chain. With the clasp at the end, the chain can be wound three times around the neck if preferred, as opposed to just doubled. Unclasped, the chain measures a little over 55 inches long, end to end. Weight: 32.4 grams

This outstanding bracelet, by renowned South American jeweler Antonio Belgiorno, is composed of slightly concave disks with delicately textured top surfaces. It has a substantial look and exhibits classic mid-century design. One side of the tongue bears the mark A Belgiorno, Buenos Aires, and an obscured rectangular mark that could indicate Industria Argentina; the other side indicates T27 and 900 for silver content in a diamond reserve. The connecting links are securely soldered, the box clasp is in good working order, and the safety chain provides added security. The texture surfaces of the disks have been left tarnished to enhance the design, but they could stand a very light cloth polishing. The bracelet measures 7 ¼ inches long; the disks measure ¾ inch in diameter and are 1/8 inch thick. Weight: 56.2 grams

The larger sides are designed as abstract forms with a pocked layer on a thin, flat surface. The opposite sides are undecorated rectangular panels. They are marked on the bridge bars with Ed Wiener’s name on one side and sterling on the other. The larger sides measure ¾ inch long by 3/8 inch wide. Weight: 14.2 grams total

A delicate necklace of double rows of green and white enameled flowers on gilded sterling, from the 1960s. There is an unidentified maker’s mark on the tongue and groove clasp, which is also marked sterling and Norway. The necklace measures 14 ½ inches long and ¾ inch wide. Weight: 64.4 grams

Decorated with applied grapes, vines and gold leaves, set with an amethyst, this arts and crafts cross pendant is probably English and reminiscent of the work of Henry George Murphy, though it is unsigned. The gold is of a low (probably 10) karat. The cross is suspended from a later sterling chain. It measures 3 inches long by 2 3/8 inches wide; length including chain is about 14 1/2 inches. Gross weight: 22.4 grams

This sterling silver belt buckle by renown modernist Ed Wiener exhibits a strong, clean design, crisply forged with a smooth panel of ebony set within a partial applied frame. The back has a well-soldered rectangular loop and prong with no signs of repair; it bears Ed Wiener's mark and the mark for sterling. There is a nicely aged patina, with random spots of oxidation, and a roughly half-inch shallow incision of unknown origin on the surface (best seen in first and last photos). The ebony is in lovely condition, and exhibits tiny white spots, again of unknown composition. The buckle measures 2 ¼ inches long by 1 ¼ inches wide. Gross weight: 3.5 grams

This bold studio piece is composed of a hand-wrought half-moon shaped pendant decorated with applied wires and impressed lines arranged randomly. It is suspended horizontally by a chain of forged wire bars connected by beaded rivets. The bib-like pendant is beautifully balanced to sit comfortably at the collarbone; the front hook closure makes for ease of fastening and removal. The reverse of the pendant bears the sterling mark on one end and a maker’s mark of sp on the other. The necklace measures roughly 19 inches long; the pendant drops about 1 3/4 inches. Weight: 70 grams

This lovely sterling silver pin is a classic example of the Japanisme influence popular during the Aesthetic Movement of the late 19th century. It features embossed images of a dragonfly and two delicate plants as well as tiny marks emulating Asian characters, all on an irregular-shaped disk. Made by George W. Shiebler of New York City, the molding is sharp and detailed; it does appear to have a secure rollover clasp that would have replaced the original C-clasp. Besides the Shiebler mark, the reverse is marked for sterling silver and exhibits the number 1410. The pin measures 1 5/8 inches across. Weight: 17.2 grams

Composed of curved openwork panels formed as highly stylized bird heads, possibly eagles, with a pre-Columbian influence. The tongue-and-groove clasp is original and very secure for this substantial bracelet. It is bears the circular mark for Pedro Castillo, who worked for Spratling and Aguilar in the 1930s and started his own taller in the 1940s (per Bille Hougart’s ‘Little Book’ of Mexican silver marks, p. 41). It measures 7 ½ inches long, taking into account the curved panels, by 7/8 inch wide. The detached security chain can be removed or re-attached, depending on buyer preference. Weight: 83.8 grams

This double-hinged bangle, a mid-century design by Sigfredo Pineda, features a central oval amethyst cabochon, framed in sterling silver and highly polished. It is surrounded by two sets of slender sterling silver bands enclosing it like fingers. The bracelets band is in three sections, with a soft patina from age, and the two hinge pins are very secure. The push-down clasp is in good working order, and there is a long, delicate safety chain attached by soldered rings. The inner band exhibits the Sigi mark, Eagle 3, a circular country mark and the design mark of 257. The bracelet has a 6 ½-inch inner circumference; the stone measures 1 inch by ¾ in. The band measures 5/8 inch wide.

The dramatic focus of this 1970s necklace is a pendant of applied molten sterling silver on a trapezoidal frame. It is set with small jade and onyx cabochons, as well as one moonstone bead. It is suspended from a handmade sterling neckring with a hook and button clasp. The pendant and neckring are marked sterling; there is no maker’s mark. The pendant measures 2 ¼ inches by 1 3/8 inches; the neckring measures about 18 inches around. Gross weight: approximately 52.5 grams

Decorated with applied wirework rosettes, this hoop necklace has an Asian feel, but sports Austrian import marks (hard to see in the photo). It is continuous, and doesn’t appear to have ever had a clasp. The necklace has a nice weight and a dramatic, contemporary look. The Austrian mark for silver content is illegible, but the necklace is probably .800 or .835 fineness; the mark indicates a registration in Vienna. Doubled, it measures about 14 ½ inches long. Weight: 74.8 grams

This dynamic pin by a renowned New York modernist designer Ed Wiener is composed of a sterling silver angular form applied to a triangular, oxidized sterling silver panel. The original rollover clasp is in good working order; the back exhibits the mark of Ed Wiener/Sterling. The pin measures 1 7/8 inches long by 1 1/8 inches at the widest part. Weight: 10.3 grams

This stunning pendant, in the late 1960s-70s Brutalist tradition, is composed of silver and set with an impressive sugar-loaf cabochon. The silver is darkened and features a highly oxidized center within a lattice-like design of roughly molded openwork. The back evokes molten lava with its wavy texture. The stone is likely a highly-included quartz, polished and showing hardly any wear, surprising given its 1/2-inch height. The bail is hand-formed and appears to be designed so that a thick chain is not necessary; it is possible the pendant could have been suspended from a neck ring. The top of the pendant near the bail shows a mark of 835 for silver content. There is what appears to be a ladder-like maker's mark next to it and the initials I.B.H on the other side. (The immediate area has been lightly polished in order to see the marks.) Research is continuing as to the maker and country of origin. The pendant measures 4 1/2 inches long, including the bail, and approximately 2 1/4 inches wide. Gross weight: 53 grams