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Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental (6)

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Antique Italian Mosaic Parure Bracelet Pin Earrings

Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental: Pre 1920   item# 1037883

Antique Italian Mosaic Parure Bracelet Pin Earrings
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$185, reduced from $235.
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Acquired by some long-ago bride on a Roman honeymoon or an intrepid traveler making the Grand Tour, these flowers remain as lovely as when the lady picked them. As you know if you love mosaic jewelry, early 19th century pieces are worked in almost impossibly tiny tesserae. Those were micro-mosaics. Due to the rising cost of labor, they gradually evolved toward the much larger mosaic designs made in the latter half of the 20th century. These are in between, still showing very fine workmanship. Since the earrings are screw-backs, introduced in 1894, they can't possibly be earlier than that. I expect they were made in the Edwardian era or the transitional period before Art Deco design became dominant. Of course it's rare to find a complete parure and we were lucky enough to acquire the matching brooch from a different estate.

The stunning bracelet is 7 1/2 inches long, the screw-back earrings are about 7/8 of an inch round and the brooch is 1 3/8 inches wide. Their settings of gilt brass -- which even have minute rope-twisted ridges that separate the teensy tiled areas -- are richly patinated by time, but would of course polish up if you prefer a brighter look.

Although I can't guarantee that every single tile is present (without going blind looking), none appear to be gone and the overall condition is gorgeous. This is a set you can wear with almost anything, since the accent colors are so numerous. Primary hues tend to dominate this type of jewelry, so the subtle sage green background here is unusual -- and particularly well attuned to today's tastes.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Lovely Czech Art Nouveau Faux Moonstone Brooch c1919

Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental: Pre 1920   item# 723605

Lovely Czech Art Nouveau Faux Moonstone Brooch c1919
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$125.
Free U.S. Shipping & Gift-Wrap if Desired. 

The "Czecho" signature on this ultra-feminine antique brooch lets us date it quite precisely to the first years of the Czech Republic (established in 1918). The region was previously known as Bohemia, part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until World War I ended, and Bohemian glass has been prized from medieval times. These gorgeous old pink satin glass moonstones certainly live up to the area's reputation.

Although its dating is technically transitional, falling between the death of King Edward and the period dominated by Art Deco style, the brooch is wholly Victorian in spirit, so must have been crafted immediately after the war. There's not even a hint of Deco styling, so it would have been out of style by the early 1920s.

The lavish gilt setting, as you'll notice, has scrolling openwork at both ends, which would allow the brooch to be worn also as a pendant or even as a choker necklace, if threaded over a ribbon at each end. Its size is impressive -- 2.5 by 2 inches -- and it's in beautifully wearable condition. As you'd expect, there's age-appropriate surface wear to the gilding, especially on the reverse. The fastener is of the old open C type, right for the period. The pinstem would originally have extended beyond the edge of the brooch but, as is common, it was snipped and filed to a new point at some time in the interest of safety. One of the smaller cabochons has a teensy chip, hard to notice without extreme magnification. Provenance of this beauty is a Wisconsin estate.

Interestingly, we happen to have a fabulous pair of pink faux-moonstone earrings that are nearly a perfect match for this. If you're interested in both pieces, please e-mail and we'll work out special pricing.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Gorgeous Antique Suffragette Bracelet for Smaller Wrist

Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental: Pre 1910   item# 685925

Gorgeous Antique Suffragette Bracelet for Smaller Wrist
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$165.
Free U.S. Priority Shipping & Gift-Wrap if Desired. 

If you're petite, no doubt you've found that most antique bracelets are just too big. They were made roomy to wear over gloves in the 19th and very early 20th centuries, so few are shorter than 7 1/2 inches. This one's just 6 1/2 inches long, counting the clasp -- and it's fabulous!

Fashioned from heavy gilt metal, the bracelet is comprised of four domed plaques intricately detailed with Art Nouveau scrollwork and set with 16 glorious faux gems. Jade-like art glass dominates, featuring rich green hues mottled with white. That these rectangular cabochons vary slightly in color and shape adds to the "real" look and also attests to hand-craftsmanship. Accent stones are deep purple amethyst pastes and glass pearls, still very luminous. All appear original and are in remarkably fine condition. Most likely the necklace was made in Bohemia, which for centuries produced the finest simulated gems, as well as ornate and rather fanciful settings. The area became Czechoslovakia after World War I, but was previously part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

The unusual combination of green, purple and white typically signifies that a jewel was first owned by a member of the Suffragette movement. For them, green represented hope, purple signified dignity and white stood for purity. The language we associate with "regard" jewelry applied, too: The "G" of green, "W" of white and "V" of violet comprised an abbreviation for Give Women (the) Vote. That right was finally won for all American women in 1920 and for all in Great Britain in 1928. Thus, although most of the jewelry is Victorian, Edwardian or transitional, some was crafted in the Art Deco era. Forgotten for many years, these jewels have been rapidly gaining value since the star-studded TV movie "Iron Jawed Angels" appeared in 2004, revealing what the gals went through (including hunger strikes and beatings). Wearing Suffragette jewels is a great way to show your pride and appreciation and, now that the genre has been rediscovered, they're getting much more scarce.

This bracelet dates most likely to the 1890s and reached us from an East Coast estate. The reverse shows age-appropriate surface wear around the edges, which reveals a silvery substance under the gilding: pot metal, to judge by the weight. The gilt has aged to bronze color on the front, where it takes high magnification to notice any wear. The three links joining the plaques are rosier, probably gilt copper, and have an elaborately incised design. Because the clasp isn't patterned and appears to be gilt brass, it's almost surely a replacement. It's been with the bracelet for a very long time, though, based on their matching depth of patina. Of course there may have been a fifth plaque originally, removed at some point by a lady with a dainty wrist. Each plaque measures about 1 1/2 inches long and a little more than an inch wide. Each connecting link adds about 3/8 of an inch, as does the clasp.

Because the clasp can easily be taken off, you could tie ribbons onto each end and wear this also as a choker necklace or a hair ornament.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Czech Enamel & Pink Moonstone Dangle Earrings

Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental: Pre 1920   item# 652598

Antique Czech Enamel & Pink Moonstone Dangle Earrings
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$140.
Free U.S. Shipping & Gift-Wrap if Desired. 

Last year we found earrings very similar to this pair, but in blue, and they sold in a twinkling. "My dream earrings!" the customer called them. Perhaps these pink beauties will fulfill a dream for you.

Wonderfully feminine and romantic, these can't reasonably be later than 1920, since so much Edwardian and Art Nouveau influence is present in the intricate filigree metalwork (lovely even on the backs). Notice the scrolling shapes and textured details, as well as the curvy flower petal motif enameled in luscious rose to match the heavenly half-orbs of faux-moonstone, which anticipate Art Deco geometry.

Enameled leaves of this type are characteristically Czech, as is the very fine quality of the stones. Despite the absence of marks, we can be virtually certain of their origin -- technically Bohemia, if they were made before Czech independence in 1918, as I believe they were. Most likely they're Edwardian, based on the screw fasteners. Ear-piercing was considered a bit barbaric at that time, particularly by early feminists.

Overall condition is lovely, with a beautiful patina on the gilt brass and only minor flaws evident under high magnification (slight irregularities on the collet settings and a hard-to-notice chip at the edge of one stone, which must have fallen out at some time). The drops will fall about 2 inches below your ears and the earrings measure almost an inch at their widest. Provenance is a Minnesota estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Rare Antique Jugendstil Giardinetto Pendant Brooch

Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental: Pre 1900   item# 592877

Rare Antique Jugendstil Giardinetto Pendant Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$355, reduced from $395.
Free U.S. Shipping & Gift Wrap if Desired. 

The giardinetto (little garden) style -- often called giardinetti, the plural -- originated in Italy during the Rococo years of the 18th century and has been revived in other eras when an exceptionally feminine look was prized. Here the artist made the look totally fresh, adapted in the Jugendstil style of late 19th century Eastern Europe.

This elaborate multi-part antique pendant brooch is one of the most delightful Victorian jewels I've seen and, fittingly, it's been treasured. Notice the rose gold gilding, still shining as brightly as new. There's delicate chasing around the bar pin, which has an elongated pinstem, tube hinge and safety-pin clasp reliably dating the piece to the 1880s. Most wonderfully of all, an oval bale beneath the pin suspends a fully dimensional, round basket holding a bouquet of gorgeously enameled flowers and leaves with highly polished accent stones of rose, emerald and coral art glass. Quite sizeable, it measures about 2 1/4 inches tall and 1 1/4 inches at its widest -- large enough to look sensational on a coat or jacket -- and obviously the basket drop can also be worn to great effect on a necklace chain or ribbon.

Without markings, which in this age appeared only on precious metals, one can't be absolutely certain, but all the indications of Austro-Hungarian origin are present -- and, if you love jewelry from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, you know how difficult it is to find now. There was never much, since the Dual Monarchy lasted only from 1867 to 1918 - besides which jewels from this area and period are so special that people seldom let them go. They share the decorative opulence we prize in the shimmering paintings of Klimt, a goldsmith's son who studied at Vienna's celebrated School of Applied Arts. Its students learned to design outstanding arts and crafts products that could be mass-produced for a growing middle class who emulated the aristocracy and had refined tastes. I expect the creator of this elaborate multi-part pendant brooch was trained there.

It isn't surprising when "ballroom" jewels survive in splendid condition, but this charmer was more likely worn by a young lady enjoying the casual pleasures of the Heurigen (wine gardens of the Vienna woods) or riding the Riesenrad, prototype of ferris wheels. Nonetheless, it's as imaginatively and carefully crafted as the adornments of nobility. The underlying metal appears to be a sturdy luxury-weight brass. To see minute losses of gilding and enamel requires extremely high magnification. To the naked eye (at least mine), this jewel is perfect. Its provenance is a North Carolina estate and you'd have to look a long time to find anything comparable.

There's no charge for insured U.S. delivery, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and beautiful gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Edwardian Jeweled Lavaliere Chandelier Necklace

Catalogue: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: Continental: Pre 1910   item# 404865

Edwardian Jeweled Lavaliere Chandelier Necklace
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


On hold. $125. 

While the typical antique lavaliere is content to finish with a sweet little pearl drop, this one cuts loose with 2 1/2 inches worth of swaying sparkle! The longest of the three dangling drops has two faceted stones at the bottom; the others have one; and the lavaliere itself is set with four. I believe the jewels are Bohemian crystals - the name appied to Czech crystals before Czechoslovakia came into existence in 1918 - but there's a possibility they're small genuine amethysts. They flash yellow, as well as purple, in certain lights and amethyst and citrine are chemically the same stone.

Dating of this gorgeous necklace is definitely Late Victorian or Edwardian. Most likely it was made circa 1905-1910, since the delicacy and refinement of Edwardian design are very much in evidence. The curvy shape of the 1/2-inch x 1/2-inch lavaliere also shows strong Art Nouveau influence. The metal, gilt brass, has acquired a lovely patina over the past 100 years, but could be polished more brightly if you prefer that look. Age-appropriate surface wear is of course apparent under high magnification.

The basic chain is 14 inches long, but an extra 2 inches of larger chain allow the wearable length to be as much as 16 inches (plus lavaliere and drops). An early lobster clasp, the earliest I've ever seen, is present. I'd consider it a later addition, except that it's the same color and it shows the same wear.

Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!


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