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Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Designer (5)

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Stunning Vintage Faux Sapphire Cocktail Ring by Uncas

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Designer: Pre 1950   item# 1007974

Stunning Vintage Faux Sapphire Cocktail Ring by Uncas
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


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Want a ring with bling? Here you go! This vintage beauty is a real show-stopper, with a setting that sparkles almost as much as the monster stone does.

The oval-cut glass sapphire is 3/4" tall and its highly detailed floral mounting is of high-shine rhodium or chromium (durable, tarnish-free metals in the platinum family). Probable dating is Retro (1935-1950); condition is lovely, with minimal surface wear; provenance is a New York estate; and size is about a 5 to 5.5. We usually state sizes as a range, because results from different types of measuring equipment can vary up to half a size, as our fingers also do with the time of day and temperature.

The Uncas maker mark in use since around 1920 -- a U with an arrow through it -- is stamped on the shank's interior. Earlier pieces feature the U between two arrows.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount for international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Deco Coro Duette - Pink Enamel Rhinestone Floral c 1930

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Designer: Pre 1940   item# 602411

Deco Coro Duette - Pink Enamel Rhinestone Floral c 1930
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


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One of Coro's most gorgeous and feminine duette designs, this combination brooch and clips set is an early example with evident Art Deco flair. The highly dimensional enameled and jeweled flowers remind me of Paulding Farnham's orchid brooches made for Tiffany in Art Nouveau times, but here the exotic motif is updated and made more playful via a stylized modernist spin.

Loaded with diamond rhinestones and accented by faux amethysts tucked within each bud and trumpet-shaped center, the jewel has rich yellow gold plating and thick enamelwork in shades of pink and green. Condition is lovely, although not perfect. Age-appropriate wear to the gilt surface is apparent on the clips, clip mechanism and high points of the backs, but it takes high magnification to notice any problems on the front (minor losses of gilding and some darkening of clear rhinestones). The vivid enamels remain in amazingly good shape -- demonstrating great care by the former owner, who wore and enjoyed the jewel but certainly cherished it.

The patent number 1798867, which appears on the clip mechanism, was issued May 29, 1930, and -- unlike many later Coro duettes -- this one shows no separate design number. Assuming a 1930-1931 production date, the jewel is already antique by American 75-year standards. Signed in script Coro Duette, it reached us from a Texas estate.

Fine enameled duettes by Coro now sell elsewhere online for up to $395, so they're highly collectible -- and, of course, their versatility is a great plus. When the clips are worn together as a brooch, the size is about 2 3/4 by 1 1/2 inches. As separate clips, each measures about 1 3/8 inches by 1 1/4 inches. Depth is at least 1/4 inch from back to front (hard to measure).

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



1930s Vintage Necklace Earrings Set by Bugby and Nile

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Designer: Pre 1940   item# 529377

1930s Vintage Necklace Earrings Set by Bugby and Nile
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


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The graceful shape of scallop shells has been associated with feminine beauty at least since Botticelli painted the irresistible Aphrodite floating to shore on one. She's associated also with roses, gold and laughter -- celebrating the sweetness, richness and gaiety of romance -- and every one of those elements is beautifully captured here in a set of jewels perfect for today's love goddesses. Sweet pink, blue and dewdrop crystals nestle in shells richly surfaced with soft rosy gold and rise on stalks within the centerpiece rose playfully formed of three scallops. The earrings, still more whimsical, have swirling antennae that turn shells into butterflies. Could anything be girlier? I don't see how.

This is a gorgeously crafted demi-parure, in which each rhinestone is prong-set and those on the necklace are also open-backed for extra sparkle. Even the reverses are lovingly detailed with bright-shining dimensional frames that overlay the ruffly shells that show a brushed finish in front. This level of intricacy suggests the jewels date no later than the 1930s, as do the earrings' screw backs and time's clouding of some rhinestones. Despite their age, which makes them almost antique by American 75-year standards, these show only minor surface wear. The necklace, 16 inches long, has quite a large central element (4 1/2 inches by 2 inches) and the earrings measure about 1 1/4 inches by 3/4 inch. Provenance of these charmers is -- wouldn't you know it? -- a Deep South estate, specifically that of a Georgia belle.

The maker, whose mark appears on the earring backs, was the Bugbee & Nile Company, in business from 1896 to 1943.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Signed Art Nouveau Jeweled Bronze Pendant Necklace

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Designer: Pre 1900   item# 459828

Signed Art Nouveau Jeweled Bronze Pendant Necklace
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

I've never seen a more stunning Art Nouveau portrait head than the Victorian lady featured on this 1 3/8" medallion from the 1880s or 1890s. She's gorgeously detailed - and no mere cutie with flowing hair, but a woman of obvious strength and intelligence. The floral shapes of her bouquet are echoed in the lavaliere attachment, which is all flowers. Prong-set pastes, still diamond-bright, add sparkling highlights to this exquisite piece, which bears the title "FIORE" (flower) and the stamp of its creator, C. H. Pillet.

Charles Pillet, as you may know, was among those responsible for reviving medallic art in the late 19th century - the "art medal" being a form previously associated with the Italian Renaissance. Among the Parisian artist's many honors was the Grand Prix de Rome in 1890.

Naturally, an item of this quality would be extremely expensive if it still had its original chain. We did find one that's of the period and wonderfully long (almost 36"), so just perfect for wearing at waist length as is so stylish now. The chain, from old manufacturer's stock, dates from araound 1900 and is in pristine condition but rich with the unmistakable patina of age. The pendant is in lovely condition, too, showing only age-appropriate surface wear and a few minor dings on the reverse.

Thanks for looking!



Signed Egyptian Revival Art Deco Necklace

Catalogue: Archives: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Designer: Pre 1930   item# 113906

Signed Egyptian Revival Art Deco Necklace
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


Sold; thank you! 

Price of $165 includes insured shipping anywhere in the U.S.

This Art Deco vintage necklace evidently hails from the 1920's - when the discovery of King Tut's tomb made jewelry of Egyptian inspiration the *in* thing. At least two metals are featured: One looks like chrome and drapes in a snaky way (like expansion watch bands), while the elaborate accents appear to be of brass, bronze and/or tombak (a zinc and copper alloy). Portions of accent metal are textured like snake skin, while other parts form typically Deco inverted-skyscraper shapes, highly polished. An enormous (2 1/2" tall) prong-set clear crystal (possibly lucite) is the central element, framed by shiny black stones that seem to be hand-cut marcasites of unusually large size.

It's easy to see this piece is something rare and quite wonderful, even without reading the maker's signature (which is Ermani Bulatti, preceded by the registration mark, a circled R). The Bulatti organization, a major force in hand-made fashion jewelry since the early 20th century, has grown into an international firm based in Amsterdam, Paris and Milan. Even their brand-new necklaces are fetching in the neighborhood of $125, and this is of course a long-discontinued design. Very little age-related wear is perceptible without a loupe. What a find!

We never charge extra for domestic shipping and gift wrap is also free when desired. Thanks for looking!



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