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Catalogue: Estate Jewelry (225)

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Gold (41)
Period, Pre Victorian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts, Deco, Retro, Modernism, Latin American

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Native American, Bedouin, Far Eastern


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Gorgeous Art Nouveau Gilt & Pink Art Glass Buckle Set

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Other Metals: Period: Pre 1920   item# 1274490

Gorgeous Art Nouveau Gilt & Pink Art Glass Buckle Set
 click for details

GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$115, reduced from $135 for the holidays.
Free U.S. Shipping & Gift-Wrap if Desired) 

The opulence of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire is captured in this rare buckle dating from Czechoslovakia's earliest years of independence, just after World War I. Because it's marked CZECHOSLOV on the fastener, it can't be older than 1918, but I doubt it's much younger.

This is the lavish sort of jewel we'd expect to see on one of the beauties Klimt painted in Victorian and Edwardian times: ornately patterned with scrollwork, rope twists and millegrain details, richly gilded (22 karat at least) and wonderfully colorful, thanks to two radiant faux-moonstones of rosy pink art glass. To judge the quality of this piece, note the gilding on its reverses, untouched by time's patina. It's almost blinding. A good jeweler could restore that original brilliance to the front surfaces and brighten the tiny areas on the collets where gold has worn away -- not that any work really needs to be done. As you see, this is a magnificent piece that's sure to charm everyone. Fastened, the buckle measures 3 inches by 1 1/4, and its brackets will hold a belt or sash up to 3/4 of an inch wide, or wider if gathered.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Choice 1970s Turquoise Coral Shell and Silver Necklace

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Ethnic: Native American: Pre 1980   item# 1274188

Choice 1970s Turquoise Coral Shell and Silver Necklace
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$325
Free U.S. Priority Shipping
(& Gift-Wrap if Desired) 

This is a supremely elegant Native American necklace that drapes like silk. You couldn't hope to find more perfectly graduated turquoise beads -- besides which, this jewel has EVERYTHING: accents of both shell and coral, plus wonderful silver beads of the type you seldom see anymore, hollow and ridged at the center.

The turquoise appears to be Blue Gem: the greenish type pooled with blue and loaded with pyrite matrix. The Blue Gem mine hadn't yet closed when this was made, although stones from there are now highly collectible. Most "finished" Blue Gem turquoise today is in private collections and museums, seldom offered for sale. Alternatively, it could be Bisbee, which is also rare (and called the Tiffany of Turquoise).

Of princess length (18 inches), this strand is impressively weighty: about two ounces, aka 60 grams. It finishes with an old fish-hook fastener of silver. I love those for being so easy to wear (compared to nasty spring rings). It appears that none of the silver has ever seen polish, so an extremely rich patina is present. If you want the tarnish off, be sure to polish by hand with a non-abrasive cream, so as not to disturb all this very valuable oxidation. Condition of the necklace is excellent. The irregularities around the edges of a few beads are not signs of damage; they're at points of heavy matrix, which often lies a bit below the adjoining surface.

From a New Mexico collection, the necklace was purchased in 1975 or 1976 by the original owner, in whose family it remained for the last 30-odd years. Its origin couldn't be clearer: The original box of issue is present -- along with a brochure from the Bien Mur Indian Market Center, a fascinating piece of history in that the shop used to be the only public structure on the reservation, but now is part of an enormous hotel, casino and amphitheatre complex just outside Albuquerque. This would have been the market's very first brochure, because the shop opened in spring of 1975. (Its 40th anniversary will be celebrated throughout the month of May, 2015.)

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Art Deco Belais Watch 18k Gold with Sapphires

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Deco: Pre 1930   item# 1274186

Antique Art Deco Belais Watch 18k Gold with Sapphires
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$800, reduced for the holidays from $1,200.
Free secure delivery to any country where we ship & beautiful gift-wrap on request. 

This breathtaking antique white gold watch from a Miami estate is an excellent example of why the Belais Brothers' work is so esteemed. For spectacular design, refined craftsmanship and the excellence of their patented white gold, they surpassed all others in the late 19th and early 20th century. Notice the rich detail of the case. Not just the front but also the sides and back are intricately ornamented.

This watch would be gorgeous, even without its vivid sapphire accents. With their added opulence, it's dynamite. The stones may be natural or, more likely, the Verneuil synthetics which appeared often in fine jewelry of this era. The laboratory-produced stones aren't "fakes" like glass; they chemically reproduce real gems so well that even jewelers must test them. Here the brilliant stones are cut in fancy shapes and the hands on the watch are sapphire blue, too, as are the beautifully enameled numerals.

The case measures 16mm wide and 44mm from lug to lug and bears the initials of the original owner, CDC, on reverse. It contains a movement marked Perla Watch Co, which has 17 jewels and 2 adjustments, and was recently overhauled. Though the watch is in running condition now, we can't promise that a little tweaking won't be needed on arrival. Of course we'll pack with utmost care, but antique watches are temperamental about transport.

The jeweled filigree bracelet, a glorious color match, is marked "Bates & B" for Bates and Bacon. Based in Attleborough, MA, the company operated from 1856 through the 1930s and was known for producing excellent gold and gold-filled jewelry. Other marks present are the brand-name "Clasper" and "Pat'd. 2-7-22". We didn't find a stamp for metal content, but slight surface wear suggests it's gold-filled. It doesn't have the hard white sheen of rhodium plating, nor the tarnish you'd expect of silver. The four sapphire blue stones here show some wear under high magnification, so are probably Czech crystals, but their dainty size makes them persuasive pretenders. The bracelet, which will unhook at either end, can be easily shortened from its present length of 6 inches. I expect a good jeweler could also find a way to lengthen it, if needed.

Both watch and bracelet date from early in the Art Deco era, based on the Edwardian delicacy of the filigree and engraving. The bracelet, like the watch, is beautifully detailed on the back and edges, as well as the front. Though they didn't begin life together, they certainly should move forward that way. It's lucky they found each other, and we feel lucky to offer the result -- which is part of a lovely estate collection of fine jewelry that's been consigned to us.

For this exceptional item, there will be no charge for secure delivery to any country where we ship, and we're always happy to gift-wrap free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Edwardian Earrings and Necklace Pendant Set

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Other Metals: Period: Pre 1910   item# 1270979

Antique Edwardian Earrings and Necklace Pendant Set
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$225, reduced for the holidays from $300,
with free U.S. shipping and gift-wrap if desired. 

This gorgeous antique demi-parure would be the making of any outfit in the yellow/orange/brown spectrum. It's a choice you'll never regret, if those are your colors -- or your lady's.

Of impressive size, these jewels are graceful in motion and comfortable to wear, because of the airy openwork so characteristic of Edwardiana, The pendant is almost 2 inches long and about 1 1/2 inches at its widest, while the matching dangle earrings are an inch long and half an inch wide. That the earrings have screw fasteners also argues for an Edwardian dating; these existed in Late Victorian times, but didn't really catch on until the early 20th century. The girandole (three-drop) form of the pendant is a throwback to Georgian times, however, which was perpetuated through the Victorian period by the Queen's fondness for wearing her grandmother Charlotte's girandole jewels. Here the drops feature lots of Art Nouveau curves, somewhat tempered by Arts and Crafts influence. When those design currents intersect, there's a really fresh look that I love.

Each piece sparkles with excellent topaz and diamond pastes, presumably Bohemian, but the metal's a puzzle. In most lights, it appears silvery, yet at times seems a very pale gold. That could be a light wash of gold over silver or the nature of the alloy, resembling ancient electrum -- or perhaps just a bit of tarnish. There's simply too little surface wear to tell if there's an underlying metal, and it strikes me as criminal to damage such pristine, subtly shimmering surfaces with polishes or test acids. Fortunately, we found a replacement chain that's a great color match. The pendant could still use a proper bale that matches -- perhaps a fancy one; we'll leave that selection to you, along with the decision about how much polishing to do, if any.

Provenance of the set is a Texas estate and its origin is most likely European.

There's no charge for insured US shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and beautiful gift wrap is also free whenever desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Arts and Crafts Jeweled Sterling Crescent Moon Brooch

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Arts and Crafts: Pre 1920   item# 1270941

Arts and Crafts Jeweled Sterling Crescent Moon Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$185, reduced for the holidays from $230,
with free US shipping & gift-wrap if desired. 

The crescent moon motif has featured in jewels since antiquity, but reached its height of refinement in Victorian times and immediately thereafter. This highly sculptural example of the form unites the romantic Victorian impulse with fine Arts & Crafts workmanship and early 20th century modernism. The result is a brooch that's as much a delight to touch as to see.

The sterling moon, sleek and shapely, is concave below and convex above, where an applied halo of 12 large diamond pastes rings the outer edge with brilliance. The wonderful old stones, so much more fiery than our modern rhinestones, are set in tall collets that flare from narrow bases to wide notched tops. These gracefully constructed little silver towers show the minor differences in shape and size that attest to hand-craftmanship, as do slight irregularities of the seam between the two parts. Also demonstrating high quality, there's a good heft to this pin, relative to its size (about 1.5 by .75 inches). Being so dimensional -- more than a fourth of an inch thick -- it seems bigger.

The clasp is a safety that appears original; otherwise, the dating could be up to a decade earlier than 1920. Although the Edwardian era technically ended in 1910, much of the style persisted through a transitional period until Art Deco became dominant. The only mark is the word Sterling, as is right for the period. Our modern "925" began to be widely seen in the 1930s.

Quite a bit of patina remains around the clasp and hinge, as well as around the stones, but someone obviously gave the rest of it a recent polish. Overall condition is lovely, showing only age-appropriate surface wear under magnification, and provenance is a New England estate.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and pretty gift-wrap is also free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Victorian Crescent Moon Brooch of 900 Silver and Paste

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Victorian: Pre 1900   item# 1270935

Victorian Crescent Moon Brooch of 900 Silver and Paste
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$200, reduced from $250 for the holidays,
with free U.S. shipping & beautiful gift-wrap if desired.. 

This splendid antique brooch of 900-hallmarked silver is of a style enjoyed through much of the Victorian era -- and particularly in the 1850s and 1860s, when the construction and gala opening of the Suez Canal drew Europeans' attention to such Middle Eastern design motifs as the crescent. It may even have been fashioned in Egypt, since the 900 silver mark was commonly used there (as well as in some nations of Continental Europe).

Beautifully hand-made, the brooch features 11 faceted diamond paste stones (probably Bohemian) that are graduated in size. Their twinkle is extended to the very tips of the crescent by applied wirework that resembles granulation, creating a pattern of silver dots also declining in size. Both the pastes and these details are recessed within elevated edges. There are also elevated outlines enclosing each paste. A lot more dimensionality and quality than we'd expect are packed into this beauty, which measures 1 7/8 inches tall and about 3/4 inch wide.

The sturdy old T-hinge here is of a type often superceded by the 1850s the tube style(in common use by 1870), so I feel extremely confident in a mid-19th century dating for this jewel. The pin stem (also very thick and sturdy) remains elongated, as was right for the period, but shows evidence of having been shortened from an even greater length (not a bad idea, since the long ones became dangerous after women stopped wearing layers of elaborate underclothing). The clasp is of course the open C used until the earliest safety clasps came along at the end of the 19th century.

Provenance is an English estate and condition of the jewel is excellent, despite the delicacy of high-purity silver. It takes high magnification to notice the few teensy dings along the edges. There's very little wear to the pastes, because they're recessed and carefully tipped in their compartments as gems would be.

A very similar brooch, a bit smaller, is offered elsewhere online at $375, so our price represents an outstanding value -- all the more so now, during the holiday sale.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and lovely gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Rare 3-inch Victorian Jeweled Crescent Moon Brooch

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Rhinestone: Pre 1900   item# 1270927

Rare 3-inch Victorian Jeweled Crescent Moon Brooch
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$135, reduced from $160 for the holidays,
with free U.S. shipping & gift-wrap if desired. 

There's nothing more romantic than moonlight, especially when you can wear it everywhere -- like on your shoulder or your bag or a ribbon in your hair!

This antique crescent moon brooch is quintessential Victoriana, carried to a dazzling extreme. As you know if you collect 19th century jewelry, the crescent form is often found, but typically in lengths of one or at most two inches. Here's your chance to own the GIANT of the species.

Prong-set with 21 fiery diamond pastes graduated in size, this astonishing jewel has the tube hinge, open C clasp and elongated pinstem right for the period, which we judge to be circa 1860 - 1880. The reverse shows age-appropriate surface wear and the gilt brass setting could stand cleaning, but condition is otherwise terrific. Provenance is a New Mexico estate and probable origin is American.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Antique Art Deco Moderne Wide Cuff Bracelet

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Other Metals: Modernist: Pre 1930   item# 1270826

Antique Art Deco Moderne Wide Cuff Bracelet
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$85, reduced for the holidays from $125, with free US shipping & gift-wrap if desired.. 

Want a bracelet as Art Deco as the Chrysler Building? Here's one that's sure to win raves with any outfit from jeans up!

About 1.5 inches wide and highly dimensional, this bold and sophisticated cuff is fashioned of top-quality brass - far weightier stuff than most brass today. That's what allowed it to survive in such marvelous condition. Its outer surface gleams, having been polished occasionally through the years, but the rich patina within its decorative recesses and on the reverse argues firmly for a dating between 1925 and 1935. I'd bet on the front end of that range, since the bracelet is European, probably from France, where Deco design appeared early under the moniker Moderne. Either way, it's antique by American 75-year standards.

Since it can be expanded or compressed at will (carefully, please), the bracelet should fit just about anyone. Please be cautious also about polishing, avoiding chemical dips that would strip the patina out of those wonderful radiator-like grooves. A gentle hand and a gentle cream or polishing cloth will protect its beauty and value.

There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and pretty gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!



Fine Vintage Ruby and Diamond Harem Ring 5 Bands

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period: Pre 1960   item# 1270757

Fine Vintage Ruby and Diamond Harem Ring 5 Bands
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$1,450 with free secure delivery to any country where we ship
and beautiful gift-wrap, if desired. 

In their excitement over a flurry of archeological finds and the new museums that welcomed everyone to see them, the Victorians "revived" just about every historical style over a couple of hectic decades in the mid-19th century. It's less known than the Egyptian, Etruscan, "Gothick", Renaissance or Rococo Revival, but the wonders of the Ottoman Empire soon had ladies lusting for harem rings -- and the passion never died! Victorian examples were succeeded by Edwardian and later creations, including this gorgeous ring from the first half of the 20th century. It may be antique already, by American 75-year standards, but we're calling it vintage since we can't be sure.

We can be pretty sure that the origin is Turkey, though, based on such details of its fabrication as the form of the fastener holding the bands together and the charming golden feathers framing each row of stones. Those "aigrette" shapes symbolize royalty -- evoking the egret plumes that were worn, ornamented by rubies and diamonds, on Ottoman sultans' turbans.

Fittingly, we have rubies and diamonds here, too: quite a lot of them. There are 25 gems in all, weighing in at a bit more than half a carat (0.53). Total weight of the ring is 38.1 carats (7.6 grams). The 9 brilliant-cut diamonds are set somewhat higher on the bands than the 16 mixed-cut rubies, which adds dimension and even more sparkle.

A ring otherwise comparable, but set entirely with garnets, no precious stones, is offered elsewhere online for $1,150, so this luxurious jewel is a particularly excellent value.

Part of a delightful collection consigned to us, it comes from a Texas estate and is in impressive condition, with no wear visible to the naked eye. Below a prong, well hidden from anyone except a gemologist with a microscope, one diamond has a tiny chip which should be mentioned. Current size is US 7.25-7.75, but a good jeweler could resize it, since the bands aren't ornamented at the back. (We state sizes as a range, because results from different types of measuring equipment can vary up to half a size, as our fingers also do with the time of day and temperature.),

For this item, there will be no charge for insured delivery to any country where we ship and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order, request more photos or arrange for layaway if that would serve your convenience. Thanks for looking!



Opulent Vintage Domed Filigree Band w 6 Diamonds

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period: Pre 1980   item# 1270236

Opulent Vintage Domed Filigree Band w 6 Diamonds
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404


$1,475, with secure free delivery anywhere we ship and beautiful gift-wrap, if desired. 

While this ring makes a lovely wedding band (and was worn as one), it's ornamental enough to escape the "bridal" category. Imaginatively designed and quite substantial (12.55 ct in total weight), its dome rises high above the finger on crescents of deeply pierced scrollwork, crowned with a demilune of six super-fiery diamonds graduated in size. I especially like the mix of gold colors. There's quite a lot of white gold, since that forms the diamond settings, which balances the yellow gold filigree and makes the ring work beautifully with other jewels of either color.

The gold is 14k and the gems were rated quite favorably by a prominent gemologist, who described them as nearly colorless (G - I), with good proportion, symmetry, polish and clarity (VS, apart from one with a tiny chip he saw under a microscope. Condition of the band is superb to the naked eye; even with a 10X loupe, I can't spot a chip or notice any wear beyond the most minimal. This is easily explained by the fact that it was worn for only 12 years or so, during a second marriage late in life. The half-dozen diamonds are comprised of two each at 3.2 mm, 3.1 mm and 2.9 mm, for a total weight of slightly over 0.64 ct.

This treasure dates from the 1970s and comes from a wonderful Texas estate collection that's been consigned to us. Current size is about a U.S. size 6.5 - 7, but that can be easily altered, since the back of the shank is plain. It's been resized once already, effacing part of the 14K mark.

Oh, and one more thing to think about: An important benefit of choosing older diamonds is that we can be sure they aren't "blood diamonds". Far too many of the newer ones are funding insurgencies and terrorism.

For this item, there will be no charge for insured delivery to any country where we ship and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order, request more photos or arrange for layaway if that would serve your convenience. Thanks for looking!


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