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Gold (40)
Period, Pre Victorian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts, Deco, Retro, Modernism, Latin American
Silver (59)
Period, Pre Victorian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts, Deco, Retro, Modernism, Mexican
Other Metals (1)
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Jewels
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Bakelite, Clips, Designer, Rhinestone, Unsigned
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Ornate Antique Art Deco Onyx Sterling Ring by J J White
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Deco:
Pre 1930 item# 1136479
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$185.
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Simple elegance never goes wrong, but there are times when most of us want to go bolder. That impulse was well understood by the J.J. White Manufacturing Company. Their ravishing jewels have tempted women to gild the lily for more than a century.
Actual gilding is often part of the plot, as in this ring's floral shoulders washed with yellow gold. Further layers of opulence derive both from the detailed and dimensional setting and from the fancy-cut stone, a tablet shape surmounted by a vertical dome. Above all this rises a crowning arc of pastes in silver.
You don't have to see many of the firm's creations to recognize them at a glance, because they're so artfully constructed and so lavish that it seems their designers were barely getting warmed up at the point when others would stop.
Given the endless fascination that these jewels provide, it's no wonder the company lasted from 1896 into modern times. This particular piece dates from the 1920s and bears the usual initial "W" in an inverted triangle, as well as a "Sterling" hallmark (rather than the later 925).
Although it's a dainty ring -- about a US size 5 -- it isn't a bit flimsy, weighing in at 3.2 grams. Condition, as you see, is excellent relative to age and provenance is an Ohio estate. Sizing up or down can be easily done without damage, because the shank is plain at the rear.
There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Modernist Kinetic Spinner Ring circa 1960s
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Modernism:
Pre 1970 item# 1115617
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$130.
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This very striking mid-century modernist ring may well be one of a kind. Although unmarked, it's certainly hand-made, being roughly cast and imprecise in form. The width of the shank, for instance, wanders slightly, and the stalk-like structure that supports the green sphere flares outward a bit more on one side than the other.
The spinning orb, which also slides from side to side, is about a quarter-inch round and rises about half an inch above the ring's base. It appears to be made of highly polished jade or agate, since the surface isn't abraded as glass would be after this long. The metal tarnishes and polishes like silver, so we can safely assume considerable silver content, even if perhaps less than sterling grade.
Obviously this is a ring that would look great on either a man or a woman; it's for anyone with a taste for the bold and truly unusual. Current size is about a US 7.5, easily altered up or down by any competent jeweler. Age could be as early as the 1950s or as late as the early 1970s; condition is lovely; and provenance is an East Coast estate.
There's no charge for U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Superb Victorian Gothic Revival Brooch w Fitted Case
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Pre 1900 item# 1114824
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$350 SALE. Was $450.
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We were so impressed by this astonishing mid-19th century Danish jewel that we brought it in all the way from Australia, where it had somehow migrated. It's simply breathtaking. When you're anywhere near it, you can scarcely take your eyes away.
Here the design perfectly captures the opulence of the Gothic and Renaissance Revival period and also shows Etruscan influence in the granulated scrollwork that surrounds the central cross on each dome. Further indicating great age are the large open C clasp; the early T hinge, which wobbles from side to side as they do; and the extreme length of the pinstem, shortened from even greater length at some time for safety's sake.
Adding even more to the rarity of this treasure, it comes with its original box of issue, shaped and sized to fit it, which strongly suggests that the jewel is one of a kind, hand-crafted for a particular customer. The box, a red oval with touches of gold and green, measures 2,75 inches by 1.75 inches by almost an inch deep and remains in reasonably good condition. Scrolling Victorian letters on the cover read: "Guldsmed Karl B. Kragh, Pilestraede 42" -- an address that still exists in Oslo (and remains in the city's most fashionable shopping district, as in the time of the goldsmith Kragh).
Condition of the brooch is exquisite. It shows only slight loss of gilding on high points under strong magnification, as one would expect after so long. The underlying metal looks dark with tarnish, so is almost certainly silver. I can’t say whether it’s sterling or a slightly lower grade chosen for greater durability, because attacking a piece of this rare beauty with files and test acids is simply out of the question. As far as I'm concerned, that would be tantamount to axe-murder. Size is about 2.25 inches by 1.5 inches, but its highly dimensional form makes this brooch seem monumental.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and beautiful gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Edwardian Earrings and Necklace Pendant Set
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Other Metals:
Pre 1910 item# 1114723
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$225 SALE. Was $285.
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It's rare to find a demi-parure still together after a century, much less one that was seldom or never worn. I'm frankly amazed by the condition of these pieces; apart from loss of the original bail and chain -- common with antique pendants, as you know -- they're nearly like new.
Of impressive size and very graceful in motion, the pendant is almost 2 inches long and about 1 1/2 inches at its widest, while the matching dangle earrings are an inch long and half an inch wide. That the earrings have screw fasteners led us to the Edwardian dating; these existed in Late Victorian times, but didn't really catch on until the early 20th century. The set also has the airy, ultra-refined quality we associate with Edwardiana. The girandole (three-drop) form of the pendant is a throwback to Georgian times, however, which was perpetuated through the Victorian period by the Queen's fondness for wearing her grandmother Charlotte's girandole jewels. Here the drops feature lots of Art Nouveau curves, somewhat tempered by Arts and Crafts influence. When those design currents intersect, there's a really fresh look that I love.
Each piece sparkles with excellent topaz and diamond pastes, probably Bohemian, but the metal's a puzzle. In most lights, it appears silver, yet at times seems a very pale gold. That could be a bit of tarnish; a light wash of gold over silver; or the nature of the alloy, resembling ancient electrum. There's simply too little surface wear to tell, and it strikes me as criminal to risk damaging such pristine, subtly shimmering surfaces with polishes or test acids. Fortunately, we found a replacement chain that's a good color match. The pendant could still use a proper bale that matches -- perhaps a fancy one; we'll leave that choice to you, along with how much polishing to do.
Truly an astounding set of antique jewelry, which would be the making of any outfit in the yellow/orange/brown spectrum, this reached us from a Texas estate. It was most likely crafted in Europe circa 1905-1910.
There's no charge for insured US shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and beautiful gift wrap is also free whenever desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Antique Moonstone Sterling Necklace on Paperclip Chain
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Arts and Crafts:
Pre 1920 item# 1114707
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$135 SALE. Was $155.
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Here's a little slice of heaven: a bewitching crescent moon to wear at your throat, set with a luminous moonstone.
As you probably know, moonstones were greatly favored by jewelry designers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They were ideal for the cabochon cuts and simple bezel settings that characterized Arts and Crafts style. The very clean lines of this jewel anticipate Art Deco, which began to evolve in Edwardian times, but its dainty scale identifies it with the earlier era. It was undoubtedly made for a young lady, since large jewelry was considered vulgar on unmarried women until standards relaxed after World War I. Its paperclip chain -- an extremely feminine, curvy version in this case -- is also typically Edwardian and transitional.
This ethereally beautiful necklace is 15 inches long, with the central moon measuring about 1 3/8 inches from horn to horn. The stone is blue-white and undoubtedly genuine, without the abrasions we'd see on glass. Overall condition of the jewel is lovely. Only light surface wear is evident under high magnification, along with a bit of age patina on the reverse that survived someone's recent polishing (not mine, I emphasize to the purists among us). That it's stamped simply "Sterling" suggests American origin, because a panoply of hallmarks appear on most English sterling silver. Provenance is a Deep South estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping, with an equivalent discount on internatinoal delivery, and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Spectacular Necklace of Ancient Romano British Beads
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Strands:
Pre AD 1000 item# 1114516
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$350. Was $475.
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This extraordinary necklace of 2000-year-old beads was acquired in its present form from a specialist dealer in London about 30 years ago. Measuring almost 17 1/4 inches plus clasp, the strand is weighty with colorful beads of ceramic, glass and natural stone, a few of which appear to be amber.
According to an expert, this is the sort of strand created by Britons of the Anglo-Saxon period, using beads left by the Romans (who occupied Britain from the 1st through the 3rd century). Similar examples have been found in burials circa 600-1000, so this group of beads may very well have been worn together for that long! The latest restringing probably took place at least a century ago, based on the Victorian fish-hook clasp. That makes the necklace even more special, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to restring the beads again soon, for security's sake.
There's no charge for insured U.S. priority shipping, with an equivalent discount on international delivery, and beautiful gift wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Rare Pre-Columbian Tumbaga Gold Frog Pendant
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Gold:
Latin American:
Pre 1492 item# 1114513
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$700 SALE. Was $850.
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This unusually large and ornate frog effigy, if not reconditioned as a pendant, would be a museum-piece. It was found circa 1950, with normal and natural wear, then cleaned and polished, fitted with a bale and probably gold-dipped to restore its original appearance.
Looking at the result, I find it hard to regret the changes, even though a lot of value was lost. Now we're free to enjoy it as a jewel, not just admire it in a public display case.
Tumbaga gold, if the term is unfamiliar, refers to a copper and gold alloy used in pre-Columbian Central America. Pieces cast of this material were treated with plant acids to leach out the copper and the remaining gold surface was then burnished. Sometimes they were also gilded with higher quality gold.
In the culture where it originated, the frog was the traditional symbol for power and fruitfulness. Similar pieces -- smaller and less intricate but left in as-found condition -- are selling online for $1500 to $2000.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount for our international customers) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Vintage Carved Onyx Bear Fetish Necklace Earrings Set
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Ethnic:
Native American:
Pre 1980 item# 1114503
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$185 SALE. Was $235.
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This is one of the most charming fetish jewelry sets I've ever seen -- and I've seen plenty of them, having lived in New Mexico off and on since the mid-1970s. These bear fetishes are absolutely adorable; they're also unusually large, ranging up to 2 inches long. Nine bears are present altogether, seven on the necklace and one on each earring. Carved from black onyx, they're very hard to photograph, but there's a lot of detail. Between bears are heishi beads carved from both onyx and turquoise.
The 28-inch necklace finishes with a sterling hook and eye closure and the earrings, 2.75 inches long, have sterling ball and post fasteners. Condition of the set is lovely; you have to search with high magnification to find any surface wear at all. Obviously treasured by their former owner and stored with great care, these pieces reached us from an estate in Kansas. We were told that the prior owner purchased them in the 1970s, so they could older than that but no younger.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Superb Vintage Bergere Rose Quartz Necklace - Mint
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Strands:
Jewels:
Pre 1980 item# 1114498
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$120. Was $150.
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Still with its original shop tags, this wonderfully giftable vintage necklace is of icy pink rose quartz, dripping with gilt laurel leaves in Greek Goddess style. It was designed by Karen Reed for Bergere. We haven't been able to determine when Ms. Reed worked for the company (L. Erbert & Pohls Inc. of New York City), but the Bergere brand was used only from the 1940s through the 1970s. Of extremely high quality, Bergere jewels were sold in such upscale stores as Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor and Marshall Fields.
About 17 inches long, the necklace has seven leaf pendants ranging from one to two inches long, gorgeously detailed even on their reverses. Each leaf is stamped Bergere and obviously surfaced with very high-carat gold. I have no doubt that these pale blush-colored rose quartz chunks are genuine; they're quite cold to the touch, unlike glass, and they're heavy. A few gold beads also feature on the strand and there's an elegant gold push clasp accompanied by a diamond-shaped drop stamped with Karen Reed's signature. Condition is like new and provenance is an East Coast estate.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount on international delivery) and gift-wrap is always free on request. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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Lovely Victorian Pearl and Pyrite Pendeloque Earrings
Catalogue:
Estate Jewelry:
Silver:
Victorian:
Pre 1900 item# 1114301
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GlitzQueen History and Art to Wear
505.205.1404
$525 SALE. Were $650.
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These spectacular antique pearl earrings from an English estate dangle almost 2 inches below the ear and are highly dimensional. Minor variations between the two attest to hand-craftsmanship -- most likely in Spain or Portugal, known for jewels of ornately worked silver, set with colorless gems. Pieces of this type were eagerly collected by British travelers to southern Europe. It's easy to imagine these earrings as a honeymoon gift for a young bride, whose husband delighted in how the gleaming drops swayed in the Mediterranean moonlight.
Adding extra sparkle, both upper and lower domed elements of the setting are accented with pyrites (often called marcasites, which are chemically the same but too soft to use as gems). The silverwork, also lavished with beaded detail, is thick and sculptural Above, it's fashioned into leaves and the drops form flower petals framing two sizeable, lustrous pearls. The stones were represented to me as natural sea pearls and I believe them to be, since pearls weren't cultured until around 1900. They seem to be full rounds, not halves, nestling into silver cups that protrude from the back.
Probable dating of the earrings is no later than 1880, yet their condition is superb. Even the lever-back fasteners appear original. If they aren't, the earrings would have hung from wires and are even older. Pendeloque (pear-shaped) drop earrings have been with us since the late 18th century, retaining popularity throughout Victorian times, and the fully closed backs and other details of construction here are more Georgian than Victorian. The Georgian traditions did hang on longer in Spain and Portugal than elsewhere, though, so it's really impossible to be certain whether these are early or late 19th century.
With apologies to the purists among us, I broke my usual hands-off rule and gave these a light cleaning before the photographs were taken. Tarnish is returning, so the silver content is clearly high. We can't be precise about that,in the absence of markings; it would be a pity to damage the surface with test chemicals.
There's no charge for insured U.S. shipping (with an equivalent discount for our international customers) and gift-wrap is always free when desired. Please e-mail to confirm availability, order or request more photos. Thanks for looking!
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