A three dimensional flower is at the center of the neckline in this garland of iron. Alternate links are rosettes, and vines. Berlin Iron jewelry is a prized possession and has been since early 1800. It is light on the body, delicate in appearance, yet strong, This necklace was made of iron when Napoleon's persistence to expand his empire, drove the German treasury to ask citizens to turn in their gold for iron bringing money to the treasury to continue the war effort. Berlin Iron Jewelry brings us the history and lost art from a period over 200 years ago. Patriotic citizens gave gold for iron to support the integrity of their nation. Today it is a rare collectors item for museums and followers of historic jewelry. Excellent condition.
The high value of cut steel jewelry from its beginnings is attributed to customers living in the Georgian and Victorian ages who understood and valued the intensive effort made to bring the beauty of such jewels to their conclusion. Mirrors and tiny faceted steel bits formed into floral shapes were riveted to back plates with rivets the size of pin heads. No glue was used. Gold washed steel or brass was favored for the backs. The rivets, used in the 19th century hand made steel jewelry can be seen in image 7. The workmanship was time intensive as you can imagine from the photographs, each bit being cut and polished and set by hand. The bright light of the camera enhances the brass tone from the back that is barely visible to the eye. To imagine the context in which this necklace was worn, picture the open necklines and upswept hairstyles of the early 19th century. This cut steel jewel was without fabric or hair to hide its diamond-like glimmer from reflecting the candlelight. Each bit was placed stratigically to catch available light. The original studded clasp remains on the necklace. The necklace is in excellent condition. It has kept its brightness and has no rust. The length is 17 inches. The pendant drops 1 1/2 inches from the center.
As if twenty one faceted garnets are not enough, this jeweler went further by adding gold beads to each and every link. The garnet color is dependent on the light available as you can see in the photos. The necklace is sumptuous and lacy.
Jewelry from this period was made by hand in candlelight. The stones are hand cut and faceted, then hand set into a material made by the jeweler's hand as well. The garnets here are in excellent condition as are the links. Silver with gold gilding was the metal chosen. Gilded jewels were frequent fashion in the Georgian and Victorian eras and used in very expensive items, for example paste rivieres, worn and collected by emperors and queens and now valued at five figures by lovers of antique jewelry. The greater proportion of jewels from this period are art history, and the workmanship is a lost art. We see them in paintings of the period. This delicious jewel is original with its original clasp. A small hook at the bottom can barely be detected. It probably held a drop in the 19th century. If you wish, you can add one. Certainly an addition is not necessary.
An elegant. early Berlin Iron necklace that lays gracefully on the body as garlands of iron chain drape classical cameos around the neck. The mesh bands and cameos are finished with gold. Each cameo is an oval of approximately one inch in width. Pictured within the gold frames are cupid playing a lyre while seated on a running lion, a woman reclining in a chariot, and a staunch guard on horseback. A feminine and rare necklace of light weight, captivating inside an open crisp white shirt or worn for occasions. Perfect condition. Germany
A superior necklace of love poesies set with sparkling red, Georgian flat cut, foiled garnets, forms a wreath around the neck, or alternatively separate to make a bracelet for each wrist. The flowers, forget-me-nots, literally mean "I am thinking of you". From the late 1700's through the early 20th century, flowers were symbolic for thoughts of love. Give a gift of a jewel in the form of a flower, and it was giving a love letter.
Garnet jewelry, red being the color of passion, was a staple of the Georgian era. The jewels were often in the design of a vine, leaves, or flower garlands. Demand has increased for hand made jewels of this kind, making them more and more rare today. This set is in perfect condition. The stones are in 15kt foiled, closed back settings, (see image 7) and the foiling, links and garnets are in perfect condition. Never too fancy or too plain, this is a Georgian treasure anyone will be happy to own and wear. English in Origin. Superb condition. Necklace 15 1/4 in long. Bracelets each 7 inches long.
An eye catching silver chain from Georgian England that is a significant piece of jewelry at the neck. Interlocking links, engraving and braiding give texture and weight to the silver. The lovely clasp is set with natural turquoise and can be worn to the front, side, or back of the neck. It is odd, but true, that antique Georgian silver chains are more scarce than are gold chains from the early 19th century. Endlessly wearable, this is a necklace that is like new in condition. The chain is a comfortable 16 in. long.
This exciting example of an early cut steel necklace is grand in scale and quality. It is rare to find a piece in this superb condition. English in origin the necklace was created in the late 18th century or early 19th century. The miniscule steel nail heads are faceted as were the gemstones of the period. In the candlelight of the Georgian era, the steel studs sparkled like diamonds. This work was done completely by hand usually by women whose hands were small and who commanded less pay than did men. Cut steel jewelry was work and time intensive. It was always expensive and could command as much or more money than gold. The jeweler worked on a piece with substantial time and effort. A design was first made from base metal. Tiny holes the size of a pin head were then punched into the base plates of copper or brass. With patience and skill, bits of steel nails were cut, faceted and polished to diamond brilliance. The jeweler riveted the brilliant bits one by one to the base plates. All this labor can be seen when you view the steel and turn the necklace over to study the back. Royalty and wealthy bought and wore steel jewelry. We read in "Georgian Jewelry" by Ginny Dawes and Olivia Collings that wealthy French In the mid 18th century turned their jewels over to the treasury and purchased cut steel. The finest early pieces are complex with many facets and layers. They are composed of dense clusters of atom sized studs. Superb condition. No rust.
The 19th century English gold and citrine necklace has the effect of sunshine on a spring morning. Nine citrines, the color of honey with an added splash of lemon,
bring immediate warmth to a woman's features. All stones are open in the back, allowing light to pass through the facets. Cannetille spirals of gold surround
the top citrines. Three of the four vertical stones have a twisted gold wire
setting with cannetille work at bottom. One central stone is set with twisted
wire alone, as if the jeweler had a light hand and felt that swirls added in this position would be a touch too much. The necklace is original with the exception of the clasp which was replaced. It comes with its original fitted box. The condition is excellent.
The charm of links that appear and are made by hand comes to us from the early 19th century in the form of a pinchbeck chain sporting its original barrel clasp. Rows of little stars encircle each round link. Behind them the heavens are tinier dots that cover the background. This generous texture and the technique of linking each round in opposition to its neighbor, gives this chain immediate interest for we can see many surfaces of each link at once. The original clasp bears gold appliqued flowers, each with a sparkling center garnet. The closure is tight and secure. $2600I tested the feel and affect of the chain last week. "That's beautiful" was the immediate reaction made by the first woman I met. Light in weight, one of the telling hallmarks of pinchbeck, and comfortable to wear at 161/2 inches in length. Excellent condition.
Lace in iron describes the long Berlin Iron Chain pictured above. So fine and delicate is this necklace that one can see through all the links. The chain has the strength of iron yet is designed with openwork in between each solid line. The clasp is the sought after male and female hands in clasped position. Museums, collectors of this jewelry and followers of ours are well acquainted with this late 18th century to early 19th century genre of jewelry. It is very gratifying to be in a position to offer this important piece of history and in pristine condition at that. The length is a generous 48"long. The links point to point are 1/2 inch high.
The German and French treasuries were depleted due to the long war that occurred with Napolean's invasion of Germany. The German government went to the wealthy
and asked for support by means of turning their gold over for iron jewelry. German
foundries cast iron into bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings. Napolean sacked the art and the jewels and jewelry factories, and took the designs and molds for iron jewels to France where he then ordered his jewelers to make iron as was made in Germany. Berlin iron became cutting edge jewelry, though it was not made en masse and for the common folk. It's historic value is clear as is its rarity. Most fine Berlin Iron is in museums in europe. Iron rusts if not cared for. This chain and any historic iron we offer is pristine. There is no rust. The clasps are strong. It is original with no replacements. Wear it with pleasure. There is no concern with the exception of water coming in contact with it. Simply keep your Berlin Iron jewels away from dampness. Do not get them wet and they will continue to be part of jewelry history and for another 200 years giving happiness to whoever is the caretaker.
It was fun to find this quote when researching Berlin Iron: "Princess Charlotte of
Wales informed her friend "That Lord Castlereagh...had offered "to get me from Berlin if possible (for they are very difficult to be procured) one of the iron rings
that ladies wear there now instead of gold wedding ones and diamond hasps". (Shirley Bury, Jewellery 1789-1910) For information on Berlin Iron do see "Cut Steel and Berlin Iron Jewellery" by Shirley Bury, Georgian Jewelry by Ginny Dawes and
Olivia Collings and the aforementioned source by Shirley Bury. The Victoria and Albert Museum, The Rouen Museum, The Birmingham City Museum, The New Berlin
Museum and the Nordiska Museum have pieces of Berlin Iron Jewelry on exhibit.
Splendor from the nineteenth century and a delight to see in great condition, this sterling silver and paste pendant presents a dove, suspended by a movable link from a paste ribbon and flying towards a spray of flowers. Most often worn hanging on a fine ribbon, the pendant has beauty and flair and is a remarkable piece of jewelry history. The design is graceful, intricate and skillfully modeled. The dove is given the freedom of flight as it leaves the bow above. Imagine the concentration and patience of the jeweler who devoted the long days to create this symmetry of frills in silver, to foil behind the many pastes and to cut, polish and facet before setting each stone. This neck piece was made circa 1800. The dove has religious connotation to the spirit of the holy ghost, therefore the jewel is known as a saint espirit. Romance and loyalty was suggested, as well as nature and our spirit being joined. St. Espirit Jewels were important to the lives of the people and to French jewelry design in the georgian period. One can verify the age of the jewel by the workmanship. The back has a pillow like feel of roundness and is skillful, smooth and fine. The stones are varying sizes and shapes and have been individually cut and set.
The pleasure of antique jewelry is the connection to the past in every area of life, not only in the way jewelry was made, but to the minds and spirits of the people, the history of the periods, the similarities and variances in architecture and art, and the painstaking skill that went into creating all of the above.
From England where Georgian jewelry was at its pinnacle, we have found just the perfect color of amethyst pastes to encircle the neck with a stream of color. This necklace has many popular characteristics of the period. Paste making was an important art form used in jewels and collected by royalty all over europe. Pinchbeck, the first fine gold substitute, never loses its color and never tarnishes. It was invented by a watchmaker of the same name, who became world famous for the metal. Pinchbeck was valued highly and, therefore, the inventor kept his formula a guarded secret. Today, the true pinchbeck has become a rare collectible found in museums and in historic jewelry collections.
The richest illustrations of the art of paste jewelry is in the recent book "Georgian Jewelry 1714 - 1830" written by Ginny Dawes and Olivia Collings. Page 115 has a necklace of similar design to ours. The same setting design is used for many necklaces in this book. Another lush exhibit of Georgian Paste necklaces is in the film "The Young Victorian" about Queen Victoria in her earliest days before and when she took the throne. It is opening this week, the first week in November. The jewelry is breathtaking and of marvelous quality.
This neckace is 15 3/4 in. long. Each link is 1/2 inch high. It is original although at one time it was made of two like strands. As jewelry was passed from generation to generation, jewels would be divided so that two sisters or nieces would each inherit equally. Condition is fine.
How to say extraordinary without really trying; this is what occurs when we look at this georgian garnet necklace and earring combination. The finest georgian garnet jewelry is scarcely available today. These garnets are the color of quality bordeaux that has been lit by candlelight.
In the georgian period all precious and non precious stones were backed by a thin sheet of foil to enhance the minimal light refraction of the available evening candlelight. The garnets and foil in these pieces are sealed in settings of at least 15kt gold. There is no foil deterioration because the jewels were made with great expertise by a jeweler who had the knowledge of making air tight settings.
Oval stones, approx 1/2/ inch wide, garnet leaves and round stones are linked with gold. Our necklace and earrings are enhanced by the contrast of natural pearls. All work was done by hand.The condition is pristine. Exact measurements will be supplied later.
Cut steel was valuable from the inception of its use in jewelry. This labor intensive example was completely executed by hand. Georgian period cut steel contains various sizes of nail heads. Each separate nail head has been multi- faceted like a tiny gem, polished to a shine, then riveted to a back frame that was punched with tiny holes to the jewelers pattern.
Small and smaller floral clusters, swags, and knots of cut steel rivets that symbolize eternity, culminate with teardrops of steel in a mirror polish. Each of the three pendant sections are loosely heart shaped.
In daylight or evening, faceted steel makes a romantic necklace that flickers like diamonds. Like Berlin Iron, is a rarity at this moment in time. Length 16 1/2 in. Height of most central loveknot is 1 10/16 in.