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19th C 58 Inch Berlin Iron Sautoir 93 Collet Set Stones

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Directory: Estate Jewelry: Costume: Unsigned: Pre 1910: Item # 1207483
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P.O. Box 11011
Baltimore, MD 21212

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Fabulous stunning antique 19th century gunmetal/Berlin iron long collet set crystal sautoir necklace. Mid to late 19th century, probably French. These necklaces were also originally used as muff chains, hanging the fur muff around the wearer's neck, where it would fall at about waist length. The watch style clasp and spring ring clasp could also be used to hang items such as a lorgnette or a lady's watch. This piece is long enough to wear four times around the neck or wear as a longer sautoir. It has 93 colorless stones in bezel or collet settings. The stones are 6 millimeters in diameter. The stones are either glass paste or rock crystal. So-called Berlin iron jewelry originated in the late 18th century in Germany. It was made from iron or base metal and lacquered dark gunmetal/black to prevent rusting. By the early 1800's it was also being manufactured in France and England and primarily used as mourning jewelry. During the Prussian uprising against Napoleon in 1813 through 1815, citizens were urged to support the war by exchanging their fine jewelry for iron jewelry, and Berlin iron jewelry became a symbol of patriotism. Its popularity in Europe continued throughout the 19th century. 58 inches long and 1/4 inch wide. Excellent condition with no loss to finish and no rust. The stones are brilliant and brighter than the photos show. A few of the stones have microscopic flea bite losses which are not visible without a loupe. The spring ring is tight. The clip close on the watch clip needs to be closed manually but once closed it holds securely, and the spring ring serves to open and close. Display form is life size. Photos enlarged to show detail.