Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (469)

An iconic design for Salvador Teran, the "moon and star" looks as if it floated out of our childhood dreams, out of that world where there are no sharp edges and everything has a reassuring face. Yet it is also one of the most recognizable creations in Taxco's modernist design index. I love the cartoonish cut-outs, the darkness of the nocturnal sky, the way the moon curves over the little star as if to tuck it in for the night...

Perfect for the medium to smaller wrist, this vintage modernist Enrique Ledesma hinged bracelet features a big, asymmetrical medallion with green stone inlay in the "mozaico Azteca" tradition of the Los Castillo. The transition from stone to metal is seamless and if one looks closely (in the photos it is more evident thanks to the macro lens), one can see evidence of the maestro's polishing wheel that brought the two surfaces together in a perfectly smooth union...

A silver arrow shooting through the turquoise center of a starburst is quite a powerful design and in the hands of Antonio Pineda, it becomes a jewel to be enjoyed and lovingly bequeathed from generation to generation. I like the little game Antonio plays here - who wouldn't expect the arrow to shoot through a heart, right? After all, Eros and his bittersweet weapons are so familiar to all of us. But no - the arrow in our case shoots for the ... stars and the turquoise blue sky is its limit.....

Vintage Portuguese sterling silver hinged bangle bracelet in a classic for the genre harvest calendar design in which different months of the year are illustrated by either a flower, fruit or other staple that characterizes them. I love these bracelets for their representation of the cyclical nature of time and their allusion to earlier decades when the availability of food depended on one's location and the specific season...

Modernist sterling ring by Erika Hult de Corral (Ric), this rather rare to find design combines silver in two finishes with richly colored malachite and two small, deep blue lapis cabochons. I am very excited to have found this piece, especially since I recently sold the matching earrings to it (you can use the search feature to see them, if you wish). A talented designer and one of the few known female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c...

A favorite designer of mine, Carmen Beckmann is one of the few female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of. Mostly modernist, her work is known for its massive, at times, proportions (especially with her hinged bracelets) and her masterful use of semi-precious stones and gems. The star-form ring at hand is centered by a big, faceted color-change sapphire, that varies between amethyst and steely purple as the light changes...

An absolutely stunning table-cut citrine adorns this massive Carmen Beckmann Mexican silver ring. The gem, its color traveling from refreshing lemon to saturated yellow as the light changes, is lifted above the finger in a terraced setting with geometric cut-outs...

Based in Mexico City Plateria FarFan created some of the most impressive and well-made collar necklaces, many in the multi-row "mesh" style and others in puzzle “Cleopatra style” designs. The necklace presented here is one of the latter, a pretty handsome one at that and a favorite of mine for the comfortable, just-at-home way in lies around the neck...

It is not easy to stumble upon a vintage Los Ballesteros carved "mask" ring but when one does find an example, what a feast it is! There is nothing "timid" about this piece. The philosophy here is big, bold and beautiful and I believe that the Los Ballesteros workshop accomplished all this monumentality in the most amazing, masterful, and eye-pleasing way. The "mask" is here carved out of a dark green agate, I believe, with grayish white specs in it...

Classic Fred Davis Mexican Deco silver and turquoise bracelet in a design that is considered an iconic creation for the renowned designer, especially in this combination of materials. A row of repousse florets with stone hearts comfortably hugs the wrist and conforms to its movements freely. The turquoise cabs have developed an interesting variation of hues over the years which, in combination for the warmly glowing patina, adds character and a certain "life experience" to the bracelet...

Inspired by ancient Inca motifs this 1950s Industria Peruana silver and 18k yellow gold necklace is a classic example of the best jewelry that came out of Peru around the middle of the 20th c.. Hand-hammered sterling links feature figural appliques on their slightly concave faces, the same combination of silver and gold also used to form the circular connectors...

One of the best Taxco modernists Enrique Ledesma was successful not only as a jewelry designer but also as a mosaicist and a lapidary. Two of his favorite materials, sterling silver and stone, are combined here in a classic for the maestro design. Minimalist, quite geometric with clean, easy to follow lines, the necklace's only luxury seems to be the saturated, rich green of the chrysocolla (I think!) trapezoids...

Perfectly carved and housed in a monumental sterling silver setting, this vintage Los Ballesteros “mask” ring is definitely a statement-making piece. For me it is all the more appealing because the stone changes color as one descends from the “mask’s” forehead to the chin, going from purple to a semi-translucent white. The effect is visually attractive as it somehow bestows age and wisdom to the tranquil face...

How often does one find an Enrique Ledesma starburst pendant? And if one does come upon an example, how often is it of such astonishing proportions? Let me answer my own question then - not often at all! Yet here I am presenting you with one and it is spectacular. Having a huge flat-cut color-change sapphire (synthetic corundum) at its heart , the pendant shoots out eight elegant sterling rays, their slender bodies curving away from the center to end in flattened drop shapes. This is such an ico...

One of Spratling's early designs, the "ring with three cascabeles" possesses the primordial charm of ambitious beginnings that are nonetheless steeped in the creativity of ancient cultures. I believe the motif is the same here as that in the tortoise shell and silver "snake" box - the more I look at it, the more I think of writhing serpents with spotted skins. The cascabeles are simply the melodious cherry that tops an already superb piece. Even though it is obvious that the ring has been resize...

Carved in translucent amethyst the “mask” adorning the Piedra y Plata silver ring presented here bespeaks Felipe Martinez’s talent as a sculptor. His jewelry, always combining sterling with the most amazing stones, showcases some of the best lapidary work in the world of vintage Mexican jewelry and his “masks”, I consider some of the most evocative, spiritual examples in the field. And even though Martinez’s creations are usually rooted in Mexico’s rich archeological past, he is un...

Housing a polished obsidian cabochon with warm, shimmering golden depths this vintage Mexican silver bracelet bears the signature of Sigi Pineda, one of Taxco’s foremost modernist designers. A prolific creator, Sigi was at his best when he worked within the confines of minimalism - the bracelet presented here, a hinged bangle, is just such an example. The idea of “less-is-more” is perfectly expressed in the lean yet fluid lines of the silver-work while the playfulness of the volcanic glass...

Massive Los Ballesteros Mexican silver pendant, layered, adorned with beading and oxidation, in a convex shape that pushes the huge citrine centering it out at you - this is one of the most impressive pendants of theirs I have seen. For me it betrays a distinct Spanish Colonial influence as it based on the ornate order medals royals around the world like to bestow on select individuals to show favor and appreciation. The heavy silver-work is lightened by the cut-outs in it but matched by the hug...