Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (311)

In the style associated with Matilde Poulat the Mexican Deco sterling silver brooch presented here is big, bold and beautiful! Wrought en repoussage and embellished with hand-chasing feathers and beads surround three gorgeous turquoise cabochons in shades of blue and green. The brooch is open-backed like many of Matl’s early pieces and a pleasure to wear and to behold. It measures 2 3/4” wide by 1 7/8” tall and weighs 17.8 grams...

The "less-is-more" philosophy of modernism and the classic, for Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, marriage of silver and amethyst come together in this minimalist by-pass ring signed by Doris Corpus Artisans. A daring, Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s, Doris Smith Chamberlin had her own workshop by 1945 and her commitment to perfection and inspired design resulted in the creation of some truly exceptional jewelry...

An American who arrived in Mexico in the 1940s, opened her own workshop in 1945 and by 1950 employed about twenty five artisans*, Doris is one of the few female designers that we know of in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. My first encounter with her creations wasn’t until a few years into my “career” as a Mexican jewelry dealer and I was immediately captivated by the exquisite design, the impeccable craftsmanship and the quality of the materials used...

I recently acquired a collection of vintage Mexican sterling silver cufflinks and tie bars and I decided to start with the most intriguing to me set. Undoubtedly based on a Salvador Teran design, I am hesitant to say that the trio is a Salvador original yet at the same time I am tempted to think so. The reason for my vacillation is the incomplete (?) hallmarking. Even though the quality and attention to detail in the design's execution is there, I can't find Salvador's signature...

A design that can also be found in this same form bearing the signature of renowned Taxco modernist Antonio Pineda, this sterling silver "eagle talons" bangle is perfect to be stacked with similar pieces or even worn and enjoyed alone. It is stamped with Eagle 1 assay mark which was also used by Antonio but bears a different maker's initials...

Dating in the first period of the Los Ballesteros workshop but after their 1941 move from Iguala to Taxco, this combination pin / pendant is an "archaeologically inspired" piece. A multitude of techniques come together in the creation of the figural scene that dominates here. Azur malachite inlay provides the canvas within which the combined copper and silver praying (?) figure is laid in...

Exquisite Matl Salas Mexican silver, coral and turquoise brooch, I believe this piece to have been made in the years following Matilde Poulat’s death in 1960 based on the quality of the materials used and the high level of craftsmanship. Maestro Salas, Matl’s nephew, worked alongside his aunt for most of Matilde’s career and upon her demise, he (and later his family) took over the workshop and continued making jewelry based on Poulat’s designs...

Big and early as indicated by the .900 silver alloy used to craft it, this Mexican Deco silver repousse "mask" brooch I particularly love because of the gorgeous stone out of which the portrait is carved as well as the pronounced repoussage of the frame that surrounds it. If you follow my "journey", you already know that I am drawn to Mexican "mask" jewelry...

A classic Mexican Deco design the "caviar" can be found in all forms, in all gauges of sterling, with or without stones, signed by as famous a name as Spratling or simply anonymous like the sweet version of it I am presenting here. There is a heart-warming sense of intimacy about "caviar" jewelry...

Possibly the most "surrealist" early Mexican Deco "mask" brooch I have ever had, this piece is the source of so many questions for me. What is it exactly that it depicts with its "portrait" surrounded by an elaborate headdress, the two arms emanating right from its top with no actual body present? And what is the "mask" itself made of? It registers as a stone in my gem-tester but I am not sure if it is onyx or a different type of opaque, black stone...

Early, sweet little ring from Taxco, this pinky is wrought in silver and adorned with what I believe to be an ancient bi-cone stone bead out of which emanate two playful, musical cascabeles. It is not uncommon for vintage Mexican jewelry from the first decades of the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance to incorporate ancient beads and small artifacts as it was not illegal at the time for individuals to buy and sell them...

Heavy, early and wrought out of fine, .980 silver this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is one of William Spratling's "archaelogically-inspired" creations of the renowned maestro's First Design Period. Thick silver sheet is carefully shaped and deeply hand-chased here with the gravitas of the labyrinthine geometric motifs further enhancing the piece's physical heft...

Deeply carved ancient Aztec motifs adorn this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet by Taxco’s foremost designer, William Spratling. This is one of his earliest and probably quite popular cuffs since it was kept in production for a while as alluded to by the late Phyllis Goddard. Wrought in sterling silver in our case, its labyrinthine beauty makes it difficult for the eye to disengage and its comfortable weight feels divine around the wrist...

Seamlessly marrying sterling silver and stone, Enrique Ledesma created some of Taxco’s classiest modernist jewelry. The specific bracelet with its curved, sculptural “cut pyramid” links is set with warm, mossy azur-malachite in which browns and greens are prevalent...

A seamless marriage of sterling silver and golden sheen obsidian celebrate Enrique Ledesma's creative genius in this set of modernist Mexican earrings. Much published and avidly sought after, the design can be found with various semi-precious and hard stones or, as in our case, housing polished, glistening pieces of volcanic glass. And if you are not so keen on screw-back findings, you are in luck with these as they are actually clip-ons. Measuring 1 1/4" tall by 5/8" wide the earrings weigh ...

A classic combination for Enrique Ledesma, the marrying of sterling and stone, makes this vintage Mexican bracelet an easily recognizable creation by the renowned Taxco modernist. The stone is here azur-malachite, I believe, with greens and browns predominant and the warmth of the silver casings adds a certain "inner glow" to it. The bracelet offers a glimpse of its life story in an inscription on the back of one link - romantic and rare yet if you would rather have it removed, it can be easily ...

A classic design for renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma, this set of vintage sterling silver Mexican mid-century earrings comes with clips and is set with green inlay, possibly azur-malachite or some kind of agate. There is nothing fussy about the pair - good, honest materials, clarify of form and fluidity of lines. Isn't that the essence of modernism? Measuring 1 1/8" tall by 3/4" wide the earrings weigh 9.8 grams (for the set) and are fully and appropriately signed with maker's name as ...

Sold through Plateria Cortes this Taxco mid-century silver and stone necklace is signed by Enrique Ledesma and indeed considered a classic example of the Mexican modernist. Ledesma excelled in the marriage of sterling and semi-precious or hard stones is sleek, minimalist designs so his jewelry has a timeless appeal and is very much relevant today as it was when it first saw the day of light. It seems that here we have two kinds of stones, both of them in hues of green and brown, set in channels ...