Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (311)

Drawing inspiration from Mexico’s Spanish Colonial past, this sterling silver necklace and earrings set by Margot de Taxco combines dark oxidation with overlay and deep hand-chasing to achieve an elaborate and rich Old World visual effect. I find the central station to resemble a carnival mask - I know, too Venetian but then, carnivals were celebrated in Spain as well though not as elegantly or extravagantly...

Stern and solemn, a gorgeous example of classic Mexican Deco lapidary work, the chrysoprase “mask” centering the silver pendant at hand looks dignified and at ease, completely unaffected by the weight of its ornate headdress. The hefty, entirely hand-wrought chain that accompanies it is, I believe, original to the necklace and perfectly reflects the pendant’s heaviness...

The indisputable queen of Mexican enamelwork, Margot de Taxco created an amazing series of jewelry in that technique which she first started focusing on while still married to Antonio Castillo and designing for the family workshop. As with her other jewelry here too the sources of inspiration were varied covering distances not only in geographical space but also in time...

A variation of Antonio's amethyst cluster necklaces that doesn't come up often, this modernist dream is wrought in Pineda's signature fine, .970 alloy and adorned with richly colored stones. The renowned Taxco designer plays with a-symmetry here as the necklace's focal point, the stylized amethyst floral cascade, reaches out from the back of the neck and unfolds itself on its right side instead of occupying the center front...

After working for Spratling in Las Delicias and Hector Aguilar in Taller Borda, Reveriano Castillo opened his shop Reveri in 1952 with the co-operation of his wife, Maria. His jewelry is known for its impeccable finishing and the good quality of materials used so I am always happy to come upon one of his creations. The set of earrings at hand in an abstract floral design with articulated stamen dangle is as sweet-as-can-be and ideal to celebrate the coming of Spring this year...

Substantial and quite unusual in its design this modernist Mexican silver bracelet is an Enrique Ledesma creation and it is adorned with two faceted color-change sapphires. The bracelet’s shape reminds me of ancient torques yet here the two ends bypass each other in a tight, determined embrace. I love the way the sterling tube grows in diameter as it progresses to the bracelet’s front where it is abruptly cut at an angle to accept the gemstone in a crown setting...

The "queen" of shadowbox designs, Victoria - otherwise Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti - also excelled in the "married metals" technique. Her work is inspired, of the highest quality and today it is considered part of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance design index. The adjustable sterling silver ring I am presenting here is out of her coveted "angel" parure. The form does not come up very often and I am happy to have come upon a beautifully aged example...

The combination of fine purity silver with silky, shimmering pearls is among my favorite when it comes to Antonio Pineda’s work. And the modernist floral brooch I am presenting here is a superb example not only of the renowned Taxco maestro’s exceptional sense of design but also of the quality of materials he used. I love the fluid, curvaceous body of the elongated “pod” and the tender forcefulness (I know, a contradiction in terms, right?) with which the stamens emerge out of it...

Every now and again, I will bump into a piece of Mexican jewelry incorporating an ancient artifact. Be that clay masks, carved little effigies or beads, they are always a treat and a source of great excitement. And when that piece is also signed by one of the big Taxco workshops, like the bracelet at hand, then it’s a real holiday! Out of their “mixed metals” line, this Los Castillo silver, brass and copper hinged bracelet is literally built around an amazing, silky smooth agate bead...

I love pearls and when they are nested in an Antonio Pineda fine silver modernist setting, I consider myself in heaven! All the more so when it’s three glorious, softly shimmering pearls we are talking about. Graduated in size and each one a different hue, they are comfortably sitting in their precious channel, as if their only concern is to showcase the variety of nacre colors. The ring is a sz 8 1/2 US and 7/16” wide...

Who among lovers of vintage Mexican silver jewelry does not know Margot de Taxco's zodiac treasures? Charms, pendant, charm bracelets and brooches, they come in all those forms and they are avidly collected. Yet how many times have you come upon a mini, almost lingerie size, Margot astrological pin? Rare and sweet as can be, this 1 1/2" Aries beauty is irresistible. I can easily see it worn alongside one of its.....

One of the most elusive pieces designed by Danish modernist Hans Hansen, this sterling silver neck ring has been in my collection for a long time. The idea was to get a pendant by the same designer so as to complete the necklace but it never happened and I decided to give that same opportunity to someone else out there. So if you have been looking for a Hansen neck ring and have not been able to find one, here is your golden chance...

The epitome of minimalism and the best proof that when it's done correctly, it is the most elegant style, this vintage Danish sterling silver and banded agate ring is signed by Bruno Jorgensen who was active in Virum until his death in 1973. There is nothing about this piece I would change - I love the way the flat cut of the stone reveals its two colors; I love the laconic design of the silver setting; and that touch of black enamel which accentuates the stepped construction of its bezel...

I love vintage Portuguese silver bracelets, the repousse hinged bangles more specifically, for which makers like Topazio and Safir are well known. They come in all sizes and designs, they are ideal for bracelet stacks but can be just as easily enjoyed worn alone. The example at hand is floral, with sculptural roses and dahlias in full bloom and in bud running its perimeter, rendered more dramatic by the patina time has bestowed upon them. The bracelet has an 7” inner circumference (clasped) an...

My second belt buckle for the day, this is a completely different piece from the Los Castillo example I already presented. Hand-wrought in sterling silver it is big, bold and absolutely beautiful. Inspired by the world that surrounds us, it is just one of those treasures that defy my photographic skills and I am afraid I failed to impart the silky sculpturality of its heart-shaped floral motifs. Not signed for maker yet obviously studio-made and reflecting the 1940s naturalist turn in jewelry de...

An iconic personality for advocates of female empowerment, Jeanne d’ Arc is not a figure I expected to see on a piece of jewelry by the Los Castillo. I look at the pendant and I see Margot de Taxco at her drawing table, sketch pencil in hand, making the French heroine materialize on paper before she is cast in sterling silver. Very unusual - I have never seen one before - the pendant is crafted “cameo style”, with Jeanne d’ Arc on horseback, brandishing her sword in full armor for the fo...

A symbol of good luck, abundance and contentment the “laughing Buddha” medallions adorning the links of this Chinese silver bracelet are carved out of turquoise and have rich detail. Slightly graduated in size the are held against classic Deco tight mesh panels overlaid with filigree tendrils, tiny beading and delicate plants in full bloom. The stone’s blueish green hue soothes the eye and its natural matrix enhances the medallions’ sculpturality. The bracelet has an inner circumference ...

Welcome Spring with this set of vibrantly colored sterling silver vermeil and enamel butterfly brooches by renowned Norwegian enamelist Hroar Prydz. Made around the middle of the 20th c., the pair celebrates the warmth of yellows and the coolness of sparkling blue with delicate details in brown. Just take a closer look at the richness of pattern in the silver underneath the enamels that makes the butterfly wings look almost real. Each brooch measures 1 1/2" wide by 13/16" tall and their combined...