Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (313)

Owned and operated by the Scarpelli family in Florence, Italy, "Le Pietre nell' Arte" gallery specializes in the art of "pietra dura" jewelry and larger works of art. Accompanied by its original box, the combination pin / pendant at hand, its vermeil finish still glistening as if it came out of the shop just yesterday, is a small treasure made by one of the family's maestros...

Vintage 1980s Talleres de Los Ballesteros Mexican modernist bracelet wrought in Antonio Pineda’s favorite .970 alloy which is richer in silver content than the standard sterling, this is a heavy, architectural piece adorned with clear, faceted, gem-quality amethysts. The stones are open on the back to maximize the effect created by the light as it passes through them and the all-silver links are substantial and very sculptural...

One of the most successful duo in Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Cecilia and Tono excelled in some of the most difficult techniques in jewelry making like piedra negra, metales casados and mozaico Azteca. Their jewelry is usually modernist yet their designs unfailingly reference Mexico’s rich archeological heritage...

I don’t often use the expression “Holy Grail” but Tane’s “Tarascan” necklace is one of those few pieces in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry that deserves it. Especially if it bears pre-1980 hallmarks - which is the case here. Habitually referred to as “the Tiffany’s of Mexico”, Tane has been producing holloware and jewelry in silver and gold since 1942 and is known throughout the world for the quality of craftsmanship, impeccable design and perfect finishing...

Pendant necklaces are a favorite of mine - I love their versatility and the fact that I can layer them whichever way I want. Luckilly, there is a fabulous selection within the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry to choose from but I feel particularly lucky to have come upon an example of a classic Taxco design that is, however, smaller in scale than pendants of this design usually in...

Impressive in size this vintage Janna Thomas Mexican silver pendant is an example of the "pluma Azteca" technique which incorporates vividly colored bird feathers in sterling jewelry. Very reminiscent of plique-a-jour work, "pluma Azteca" was introduced by the Los Castillo workshop and it is a demanding, difficult process so it was emulated by just a handful of other Taxco maestros. Thomas excelled in it, however, and her pieces are sought after by knowledgeable collectors...

If I saw this piece from far away, I would think it's a poison ring - that's how impressive in size and lift its gallery is. Yet not to worry, there is no hidden compartment here and you won't be tempted to become a modern-day Lucrezia Borgia! Beauty and commanding presence, though, yes! There is a lot of that in the sodalite's dark blue depths with their cloudy grey swirls and that river of black cutting across right through the cab's middle...

Made in Porto as is indicated by the hallmarks it bears, this vintage sterling hinged bangle is adorned all around with a repousse architectural design. Crisply rendered, the motifs are easily readable to the eye and the juxtaposition between raised surfaces and recesses enhances the bracelet’s sculpturality...

It is always vexing when a hallmark eludes identification and this is (almost) the case with the towering vintage silver ring at hand. Brutalist in design, having a big, semi-translucent chrysoprase cabochon nested in its elevated setting, it bears a partial hallmark which has been suggested to me is probably a maker’s mark from Spain. Home of renowned modernist designers such as Joachim S’Paliu and Puig Doria, Spain sounds like a plausible place of origin for our 1970s ring...

One of the oldest and definitely one of the very few original workshops that are still in operation in Taxco, the Los Ballesteros taller created some of the best "mask" jewelry in the story of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Whether incorporated in rings, brooches, pendants or bracelets, their minimalist carved portraits are always finely executed and the silver-work which houses them quite often touches the monumental...

I always loved "reindeer moss" jewelry and I expected, when I would finally get one, that it would hail from Finland. Little did I know that it would actually come from the other end of the world. But here it is, magically exotic, reminiscent of ancient forests, with trees dripping in the cool mist, their floors soft with fallen leaves and pine needles...

Made in 1978, this vintage English sterling silver ring epitomizes the timeless appeal of Wedgwood jasper "cameo" rings. Wedgwood jasperware cut across genre divides and come in several colors but this darker blue (along with black) is my favorite of all. Hailing from Greece, I appreciate the Greek Revival figural applique as well as the sweet serenity the image of mother-and-child imparts...

I was always in love with beaded necklaces but as I grow older I appreciate their elegant comfort even more. Whether worn alone or combined with similar pieces, with stones or all-silver, they can be counted on to save the day whatever the occasion. This specific design by Carmen Beckmann is one of my absolute favorites - I have one in my jewelry box and I will never let go...

A puzzling piece - though it is signed “Birks”, the hallmark does not look like the Canadian company’s commonly encountered marks - this vintage sterling vermeil pin is a small work of art...

Slick, strong design that brings to mind the best of Scandinavian modernism, this sterling silver studio-made necklace consisting of neck ring and pendant is an unsigned American beauty. One of the most elegant examples of the form I have ever seen, it is obviously hand-wrought and its use of lucite and what I will describe as faux baroque pearls (if I am wrong, all the better for you!) alongside sterling silver and just a bit of brass underscores the belief that inspired jewelry design does not...

Towering presence and one of the yummiest amethyst quartz spheres you have ever seen make this vintage Joachim S'Paliu ring a must-have addition to every well-dresser's jewelry box. Perched high up on a substantial concave sterling block the stone vibrates with the movement of purple, violet and light lavender waves that swirl around within it and the shank's chunky geometry matches the stone's proportions perfectly. A ring for the ones among us who don't hide away in the shadows it is currently...

Slender, elongated, hand-wrought fine silver feathers that end in a playful curl make up this set of "swan wing" modernist earrings by Antonio Pineda. I have to admit that this is one of the most unexpected Antonio creations I have ever encountered. When I first saw it, I thought that the clip-ons would have to surely be a later replacement yet I have since seen a similar pair and that one too had the same findings. Now these are earrings for those not afraid to ... spread their wings and reach ...

Surrounded by the headless body of a coiled serpent the bezel-set turquoise adorning this Carmen Beckmann ring is one of the most visually interesting specimens of the stone I have recently seen. The variations in its green color in combination with the off-whites and the intense matrix come together in a way that suggests a mountainous landscape, dark boulders looming in the back, green grass still covered with patches of snow here and there. This is not elaborate, fussy design - the materials ...