Catalog (319)

Elegant and "quiter" than most Matilde Poulat jewelry, this early repousse bracelet by the big maestra exhibits nonetheless all the attributes Matl's work is avidly sought after and venerated for. Repoussage that creates a body with impeccable texture and perfect finishing, a gorgeous golden sheen obsidian cabochon and, of course, the Mexico City style silver-work which to me represents Mexico's Arts and Crafts movement. What is there not to love here? I am very attracted to the size which allow...

A figural repousse Mexican Deco brooch in sterling silver this "portrait" piece bears the signature of early Mexico City maestro M. Velazquez. Over the years of my love affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come to know and appreciate Velazquez's work for its "earthiness", its craftsmanship and the interesting designs he created. The specific "mask" motif I have had a few times in the past in necklace, ring and brooch forms but always anonymous. Often described as an Aztec or Maya "...

My second M Velazquez silver brooch for the day, this Mexican Deco repousse "portrait" I have never had (nor, I believe, seen) before. As opposed to the first figural pin, here the "sitter" is shown in profile, his likeness set in a raised frame against a stippled background. Velazquez's repoussage can be very dramatic and in the piece at hand it is also enhanced by deep chasing and oxidation which brings out the sculpturality of the face and the impressive headdress. The brooch measures 2 1/8"...

Vintage set of Mexican fine silver concave cufflinks signed by Antonio Pineda, this pair is wrought in the renowned Taxco modernist's .970 alloy. I love the sculptural lusciousness of the flat-bottomed ovoid body and the wave-like motion by which its edges rise and drop around the central hollow. In a slick mid-century design that can be easily enjoyed by just about everybody the cufflinks are 1 3/16" long by 7/8" wide and weigh 23.4 grams (for the set). They are fully marked with Antonio's cro...

Born in Florence, Italy but spending her life as a designer and silversmith in Lima, Peru, Graziella Laffi found inspiration in the art of her adopted country's old civilizations, respectfully situating ancient motifs in her own, mid-century context. Laffi is habitually referred to by all who loyally collect her work as "the Spratling of Peru", a parallel that bespeaks the originality of her work and the quality of the jewelry, hollowware and decorative items she created. In the brooch presented...

I never tire of the double-sided pendant necklaces Victor Jaimez created for Emma Melendez. The perfect blend of Aztec Revival and modernismo Mexicano, they are unfailingly characterized by craftsmanship of the highest level and meticulous finishing. At the same time dramatic and awe-inspiring, the pendant's two sides showcase several techniques as overlay, oxidation and mozaico inlay come together to create the image of Quetzalcoatl and the abstract figure of a Meso-american monkey. The chain ...

The busy, ever-changing worlds of the bottom of the sea and the shores of tranquil lakes unfold themselves in the carefully worked repousse silver frames surrounding the chunky turquoise "rocks" that adorn this early 20th c. Chinese necklace and earrings set. I never cease to be amazed at the amount of minute detail Chinese silversmiths were able to condense into such small spaces without ever losing the crispness of each motif. It is very difficult to create jewelry so generously embellished wi...

For a few years around WWII and possibly up to 1950, Marcel Boucher had a special line of silver jewelry made in Mexico under the name "Parisina". I don't think we know which workshop produced those pieces or whether they were made by a number of different silversmiths. I can, however, say that Parisina jewelry ranges from the very light-weight to the chunkier, more substantial examples and that the same variety is also reflected in their designs. The Cuban link bracelet presented here is defini...

Generously long and imposing in its presence, this early Mexican Deco silver, copper and stone necklace with cascabeles is a great example of the way ancient Mesoamerican artifacts found their way into jewelry created during the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Statuettes, clay "masks", beads of stone and silver, carved pieces of bone were unearthed on a daily basis in Mexico's countryside either by accident as people worked the land or as a result of deliberate "digging" to find them. Many...

Dating in the earlier period of Matilde Poulat’s extraordinary career, the cross pendant presented here is adorned with Matl’s favorite stones - turquoise, amethyst and coral. Inspired by Mexico’s rich folk art, it belongs in her daringly eye-catching series of “jeweled” creations but here, there is an additional motif that makes the pendant even more precious. Namely, the two small repousse angel dangles, facing each other in a kneeling position with lit candles in their hands. The st...

A book piece for Sigi Pineda, the “boomerang” brooch belongs in a line of jewelry in which the Taxco modernist combined layering, purposefully applied oxidation and vividly colored semi-precious and hard- stones to create slick, modernist, I would even say space-age, designs that seems as relevant today as they did when they were first introduced to the world. What I always found amazing about this brooch is the ingenious - and quite minimal - way the stone (chrysoprase in our case) is incor...

Crafted of 14k yellow gold and housing a silver coin that shows chariot horses and their charioteer this impressive, towering ring is, I believe, of Greek extraction. The coin is a reproduction of an ancient Macedonian piece from the time of Phillip II, the father of Alexander the Great - part of the king's name in Greek letters "...ΛΙΠΠΟΥ" (of Philip) can be seen under the beasts' hind legs. The chunky, generously heavy shank and setting are shaped in an "architectural" form that is chara...

Designed by Karin Pedersen for JemAx of Denmark, this sterling silver vermeil and white enamel brooch is such a great example of Scandinavian minimalist / modernist design from the 1960s and 1970s. I love the pearlescence of the white here and the way its translucence brings out the guilloche motifs in the silver underneath. White is a gorgeous color in Scandinavian enamelwork and it pairs perfectly with darker, more subdued hue time and loving use has bestowed to the vermeil finish. Measuring 2...

One of the most successful duo in Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Cecilia and Tono excelled in some of the most difficult techniques in jewelry making like piedra negra, metales casados and mozaico Azteca. Their jewelry is usually modernist yet their designs unfailingly reference Mexico’s rich archeological heritage. I particularly love their “mask” pieces, especially their rings that do not come up very often and I am thrilled to have come upon the tiger’s eye example presented h...

I acquired this pair of Miguel Melendez’s hinged bangles as a set some time ago and after long deliberations, I decided that they should continue in life as such. Miguel is one of Taxco’s modernists yet he honed his skills at Spratling’s Las Delicias and working for Margot de Taxco for many years. This specific design is a favorite of mine’s by him - it brings to mind rock formations and I love the interplay of negative and positive space. I am also attracted to the specific stone that ...

Very much in the style associated with Matilde Poulat and often referred to as "Mexico City repousse" this sweet little silver "serpent scales" bracelet is adorned with an amethyst cabochon in its central station. An early example of this "school", it is an honest attempt to emulate the "grand dame" of Mexican silver jewelry albeit in a more demure, smaller scale than most of Matl's work. I like to think of its maker as a young apprentice, impressed by Poulat's genius, patiently working on impro...

Maestro Ocampo's work I have come to appreciate over the years for its good craftsmanship and attention to finishing yet it's been a long time since I offered a piece by him. Quite often his jewelry is inspired by the creations of the bigger talleres and if I am not mistaken, the bracelet at hand is based on a Los Castillo design. The technique employed is also something the Los Castillo tried their hand at. This is not a straight forward "mixed metals" bracelet in which alternating links made o...

Bold, colorful and generously long this vintage Mexican chain necklace is signed by Cecilia and Tono, one of Taxco's most successful duos. The combination of chunky amethyst, slender sterling tubes and lozenge stations embellished with azur-malachite inlay is undoubtedly eye-catching and I love the irregular shape of the stone beads which underscores their hand-cut quality. Wear it alone or combine it with similar pieces, the result will be stunning either way. The necklace measures 31 1/4" lon...