Catalog (322)

A graduate of the Parson's School of Design in Paris, Erika Hult de Corral is one of my favorite modernist designers and silversmiths in the context of Mexican silver jewelry. Spanning a few decades, her work is unfailingly of the highest quality with attention paid not only to materials but also to finishing and, of course, imaginative design. The ring presented here, wrought in sterling and centered by a scrumptious tiger's eye stone, can also be found with Enrique Ledesma's signature. Since ...

A rare, spectacular Erika Hult de Corral set consisting of two square sterling silver bangles with wood inlay (I believe probably rosewood) this pair is a feast for the eyes and such a treat for the vintage Mexican jewelry collector who also seeks out the few (but amazingly talented) female designers of the field. Ric (as Hult de Corral signed her pieces) studied at the Parson's School of Design in Paris and before opening her own workshop during Taxco's "middle period", she worked for both Sigi...

Calling the vintage Mexican silver and black stone "mask" ring I am presenting here massive is not an exaggeration. It is not just the actual ring size (9.5 US) that makes it so; it is also the textured, solid setting, quite masculine in design, and the beautifully carved, stupendous effigy it houses. I am not sure what the stone is - I think it might be onyx but it could also be black agate. I am fascinated by its opaque gravity and the way its satin finish invites the touch. And what about tho...

Bearing the signature of Pedro Castillo this bracelet is, for me, a fusion of classic Taxco "arhaeological" as well as modernist elements. The overlay is immaculately crafted - one would never expect less from a Castillo - and the design lends itself to several readings. Is it a stylized butterfly? Two human forms positioned sideways, mirroring each other? An elaboration on ancient Mesoamerican motifs with a mod twist? Be that as it may, the bracelet has an intense visual presence that is only e...

True to the basic principles of the Arts and Crafts movement, this silver and sodalite ring brings together careful, honest craftsmanship in an uncomplicated, clear design that respects the nature of the materials used and brings out their natural beauty. I love the deep color of the stone with its veins of black and the spiderweb of white that just makes it through to the surface. I appreciate the light hand-hammered texture of the precious metal and the oxidation that has been ingeniously appl...

Sets of bangle bracelets are bound to lighten the spirit and brighten the day with their music and, if they are also studded with stones like the ones at ... hand, the splashes of color they scatter around. Made in the middle period of Taxco's 20th c. Silver Renaissance and signed by listed yet still unidentified maestros, these two came to me as a pair and this is the way I would like to send them out to their next new, loving home. Perfect to wear as a duo but also ideal to bring the vibrancy ...

Slick, strong design that brings to mind the best of Scandinavian modernism, this sterling silver studio-made necklace consisting of neck ring and pendant is an unsigned American beauty. One of the most elegant examples of the form I have ever seen, it is obviously hand-wrought and its use of lucite and what I will describe as faux baroque pearls (if I am wrong, all the better for you!) alongside sterling silver and just a bit of brass underscores the belief that inspired jewelry design does not...

Stunning Los Castillo "doorknocker" dangle earrings, these beauties are breath-taking and beguilingly curvaceous. I love this design and it has been a long time since I had a similar set. Sensual curves, sculptural teardrops, discrete little scrolls and confident, masterful repoussage - there is nothing about the pair that was not paid attention to. Even the concave round elements that hide the screw-back at the earrings' top have been enhanced with oxidation. Measuring 2 1/4" long by 1 1/8" wid...

Heavy, early and wrought out of fine, .980 silver this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is one of William Spratling's "archaelogically-inspired" creations of the renowned maestro's First Design Period. Thick silver sheet is carefully shaped and deeply hand-chased here with the gravitas of the labyrinthine geometric motifs further enhancing the piece's physical heft. This is a bracelet that makes itself known to the wearer not only with its weight but also with the confident, almost possessive way it w...

Based on one of William Spratling's most classic, early designs this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst ring is an anonymous beauty from the same period the renowned designer was active. Lean and mean in its constitutive motifs, it nevertheless packs a powerful visual punch what with the mysterious depths of its cloudy cabochon and the curves of the beading on either side of the stone. Classic and classy indeed the ring is currently a sz 6 US (yet easily re-sized by your jeweler) with its face mea...

Based on an original, almost impossible to find Margot de Taxco design, the repousse "swans-in-a-row" bracelet I am presenting here is wrought in fine, .980 silver and is a little masterpiece. I think suggesting that "A.E.M", whose initials can be found on it, was a maestro who worked for the Los Castillo and/or Margot de Taxco is not a far-fetched hypothesis. Not only is this piece very close to Margot's creation, it is also extremely well made, very sculptural and has crisp, rich detail to it....

Signed by Victoria who is often credited in the relevant literature with having perfected the "mixed metals" technique this big, bold combination pin / pendant brings together sterling silver, copper and brass in an Aztec Revival design. I am fascinated by the seamless marrying of the metals in "casados" pieces and Ana Nunez de Brilanti excelled in their design and crafting. Here, the round "shield" element is slightly concave and catches the light in ever-changing, fascinating ways. Wear it as ...

Signed by Mary Gage, the eccentric yet talented silversmith (among other vocations!) of the late American Arts and Crafts movement, this wide sterling silver band ring is entirely hand-wrought and features her signature "lily pads" motif. It seems that Gage crafted this ring in 14k yellow gold as well which probably explains why, if you look really closely to the clusters of tiny beading separating the lily pads, you will spot two or three that are made of gold. Generously wide, with a fantastic...

An early Taxco treasure, this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is both generous in weight and wrought in fine, .980 silver. The design is classic for the period and I have seen all-silver versions of it over the years by anonymous and recognizable names, that of Emma and La Cucaracha being among the most famous. The marriage of silver and copper that we are treated to here, however, I have never encountered before. Not only is the mixing of the metals unusual - the incorporation of the specific silver...

The Arts and Crafts is one of my favorite periods in jewelry design - emphasis on motifs from nature, design that focuses on craftsmanship while allowing the viewer to follow the artisan's hand, "honest" materials without necessarily seeking out the most expensive metals and gemstones, it was a real break with the fussy excesses of Victorian aesthetics. The silver and banded agate intaglio ring presented here is an example that brings together all the above. Impeccably carved into the stone taki...

Straddling the divide between Aesthetic and Arts and Crafts design, this hinged sterling silver buckle bracelet was, I believe, made in the USA based on its hallmarking. The entire surface of the front "wing" is etched with ivy leaves, a motif beloved by the Victorians it seems, while the back is left blank, as is usually the case with bracelets of this type. I love the curve of the buckle's prong that brings to mind avian talons and the way the end of the silver "belt" rises slightly beyond the...

Lariat necklaces are a favorite of mine and when I come upon a good Mexican example, I make every effort to bring it to One Good Eye Silver. Truth be told, they don't come up as often as other forms but it is an exciting quest to pursue. The late Deco / retro piece I am presenting here is a clipless version - you can adjust it by tying a loose knot at the desired height and change the way it looks whenever you feel like it. Luxuriously thick, the twist rope chain glows with the beauty of a life ...

A classic early Matilde Poulat Mexican silver bracelet, its textured sterling wire-work adorned with beading and coral and turquoise cabochons, this piece was made in the 1934-48 period of Matl's creative life as is indicated by its hallmarks. Part of her "flat" as opposed to "repousse" jewelry, the bracelet is perfectly articulated and responds to the wrist's every move in a effortless, gracious way. Its "solid" construction bestows a welcome weight to it that feels warmly familiar when you hav...