By the time Edward became king of England in 1902, he and his wife Alexandria had been established as leaders and influencers in fashion. Edwardian fashion diverged from the Victorian styles that had dominated England for decades, in part because of technological advances in lighting and metallurgy. Yellow gold gave way to white metals as platinum became popular, and use of this metal inspired fine detail in the metal work.
The introduction of electric light vitalized the diamond market. Diamonds shone brilliantly when viewed in the new, whiter light as opposed to the older, yellowish gas lighting. This lighting also showcased the new, more delicate fashions with softer fabrics and paler colors. These fashions were meant for diamonds and paler gemstones, such as diamonds, amethyst, and peridot.
Popular jewelry motifs and styles included Alexandria’s favorite stars, crescents, and dog collars as well as open, graceful bows, many pearls, garlands, and bar pins.
Unger Bros was a well-known and successful Newark firm that made silver jewelry and accessories up until 1910. One of their specialties was die-stamped work that imitated repousse. (The piece shown here is solid silver, however.)
