This MATL - Matilde Eugenia Poulat designed and made pin/ brooch and all of MATl pieces are what I call...
This piece is centered around a large square Amethyst gemstone with no chips only natural inclusions, beautiful silver work with Turquoise stones of varying color.
Marked: MEXICO 925 M. REG 142093 MATL dating the piece to approx 1950 - 60.
Measures approx. 52mm (2”) top to bottom, 40mm (1.6”) wide.
Weighs approx. 13.45 grams.
Condition: Excellent vintage condition with no defects to be found. Lovingly cared for this piece has a nice patina, all stones seem to be original although the colors have changed with time, it is very difficult to tell if stones were replaced because the stones change color over time and at varying rates, all stones are intact. The closure and lock work well, the pin is not perfectly straight.
NOTE: Highly collectible, better pieces are continuously harder and harder to find especially sets. It is said her earlier work had ‘better’ stones’. Prices continue to rise and those that imitate her work well are also collectible.
Matilde Eugenia Poulat is considered to be among the top designers of the era and her pieces are highly sought after. Poulat studied at the San Carlos Academy of Art along with another of Mexico's top designers of the era Diego Rivera. Said to be a “painter and designer first” her shop MATL opened in 1934. The earlier pieces are said to have higher quality stones is a general rule although this is not the main reason her earlier work is the most desirable by collectors. MATL is the Aztec word for water and was a registered trademark (number 142093) the registration number appears on her jewelry. Her pieces usually have three stones; amethyst, coral, and turquoise although most but not always all three in one piece. Single stone pieces are harder to find. Her designs were continued by her nephew Ricardo Salas until he passed in 2006. MARK: MATL sometimes in script; sometimes etched. Eagle number 1, 123,129. Her Nephew Ricardo Salas mark: MATL. Salas. Eagle number: 1, 123, 129 Registration number: MS-12 (1980 - 2006).