Catalog: Estate Jewelry (461)

These mid-century earrings are composed of rectangular and concave gilded sterling silver plaques enameled in a deep blue with a linear design under the glaze. The blue shows much brighter than in the images and more of a contrast with the two raised ridges of gilded sterling that decorate the center. They are secured by screw backs in good working order, and are signed Balle 925 for Øystein Balle of Norway. They measure 1 inch long by 3/4 inch wide. Weight: 10.1 grams

A graceful pendant of clean, spare design and lightly oxidized. The back bears the mark of modernist jeweler Bill Tendler. The pendant measures 1 ½ inches long by ½ inch at its widest part. Weight: 2.8 grams (A 24-inch chain is included; it did not originate with the pendant, but is of the same period.)

Here is an English-made whistle of copper-plated brass and base metal, that may have been made for the U.S. market. The front is labeled ‘The Acme/Boy Scouts’ with the English registration number for 1914, and ‘Patent’ underneath. The whistle itself measures a little under 3 inches long; the bale adds another 3/4 inch. Circumference is about 2 inches. Weight: 25.8 grams

This interesting openwork bronze pin is formed as a stylized horse and is based on ancient Nordic design. It has a lacquered finish to preserve the surface color of the bronze. The back has a secure curled C-clasped and the mark of Finnish maker Koravala Koru. The name of Suomussalmi, a region in Finland, is inscribed on the back as well. The pin measures 2 inches long by about 1 ¾ inches high at the ear.

This handsome pin is simple yet smart, hand wrought with incised details. It is formed as a jagged-edge leaf and bears the mark of Bob Ford, Canada; it is also marked handmade. Ford was a founding member in 1946 of the Ontario Metal Arts Guild, according to an internet source. The pin tests as sterling although it is not marked for silver content. It measures 1 ¾ inches long by 1 ½ inches wide. Weight: 6.3 grams

This comfortable 1960s bracelet is composed of chevron-shaped links that move naturally with the wrist. It bears the mark of New York jeweler Carl Ruopoli and sports an innovative disc clasp that is quite secure and easy to maneuver. The bracelet measures 7 ½ inches long by ½ inch wide. Weight: 21 grams

This delicate link bracelet features four oval cabochons, each prong-set in a decorative sterling frame. Sterling openwork panels, each set with a single marcasite, connect the frames. The ornate settings give the piece a more formal feel than Deco; possibly this dates later, perhaps the 1950s. The spring-ring clasp is secure, and is marked sterling; one of the connecting panels is also marked sterling on the back. The bracelet measures about 7¼ inches long by about 5/8 inch wide.

Set in white metal panels with scroll edges, the abalone is carved or incised with modified starburst designs, and exhibits beveled edges. The backs have sturdy findings, with no stress or stretching to the metal. Each button measures about ½ inch square.

Decorated with inlaid discs and squares of bone, horn and wood, in the manner of tribal or ethnographic art, this compelling long chain necklace has an exotic, sophisticated feel. The discs are decorated on both sides; the squares, only on one side. Each ring of the cable chain is completely secured with solder; the chain has no clasp but can be doubled. The dating is mostly likely 1950-1960, although it could be older. Doubled, the chain measures 28 ½ inches long. It is conservatively dated.

Composed of 8-mm carnelian beads alternating with rough wirework beads of a slightly larger size and low-content silver. There appears to be a mark struck on one link (see photo 5). The chain measures approx. 32 inches long, unclasped. A modern spring-ring clasp has been added.

Constructed of a single strand of solid, chromium-plated white metal, this bangle bracelet is a marvel of modern design and could date as early as the 1930s. The flexible metal allows each end to be folded over the other three rings, secured by balls at each end, and enables the bracelet to expand or contract as the wearer desires. There is some surface wear that is hard to see when the bracelet is worn. It is designed for a very comfortable fit. The bangle is not marked, but most likely is a studio piece. Interior circumference is about 8 inches; bracelet diameter is about 3 inches.

Renoir of California had an affinity for primitive art, and the design of this bracelet is a good example of that inspiration. Part of the company’s Matisse line of enameled jewelry, this bracelet features oblong copper panels of two lengths decorated with blue enamel with white specks. The fold-over clasp is marked ‘Matisse’ on the top. There are some minor edge chips in the enamel on the back. It measures about 7 inches long by 1 1/4 inches at its widest point.

Here is a nicely crafted mixed metal pin designed with stylized silver oak leaves, berries and vines applied to a curved copper plaque. The piece, which has some heft, is secured by a safety clasp and a strong pin stem. The metal surfaces bear a warm patina; the pin is marked on the back with an impressed W and Handwrought. It measures about 2 1/4 inches by 1 3/8 inches. Weight: 19.7 grams

A copper cuff with deep patination and a leaf-like design of crimped and scored edges. Bright, convex, circular motifs contrast nicely with the darkened surface, with curled terminals. The cuff is unmarked. It measures 1 ¾ inches wide with an internal circumference of a little over 7 1/2 inches; the gap measures 1 1/8 inches across.

Here is a nicely designed bracelet with a primitive feel and a classy look. It was made by Renoir of California, and has a secure fold-over clasp and the Renoir signature on the back. It lays nicely on the wrist. It measures 7 1/2 inches long and 1 1/4 inches wide. (See our listings for matching necklace and earrings.)

Here is a copper necklace with a sophisticated look that works for a variety of occasions. Made by Renoir of California, it lies neatly around the neck like a collar of copper fringe. It is nicely designed with alternating groups of graduated flat links, and has a secure fold-over clasp that bears the Renoir mark. Copper is almost as bright as the day it was made, mostly due to Renoir’s special coating to preserve the metal’s luster. Total length is 15 inches; widest links measure 1 inch. (See our listings for the matching bracelet and earrings.)

Formed as a delicate spray of three flowers, this Coro sterling silver pin has an unusual design, unlike much of the company’s Sterling Craft line. The Sterling Craft pieces were hand-constructed, with an arts and crafts look; many had a Scandinavian influence, but this piece is quite naturalistic and more complex in construction. It measures about 3 ½ inches long by 2 inches wide by 1 inch deep. It has a secure rollover clasp. Weight: 18.6 grams

Here is a hand-constructed cuff bracelet made of multiple wires that are joined at the terminals and kept in place by horizontal rings. The wires look to be silverplated; the rings and soldered terminals are white metal. The cuff has a good heft (56 grams) and an impressive look. It is also well balanced, so doesn't turn on the wrist. It measures a little over 1 inch wide and 5/8 inch high with an inner circumference of about 7 ¼ inches.