Catalog: Estate Jewelry (461)

Composed of curved openwork panels formed as highly stylized bird heads, possibly eagles, with a pre-Columbian influence. The tongue-and-groove clasp is original and very secure for this substantial bracelet. It is bears the circular mark for Pedro Castillo, who worked for Spratling and Aguilar in the 1930s and started his own taller in the 1940s (per Bille Hougart’s ‘Little Book’ of Mexican silver marks, p. 41). It measures 7 ½ inches long, taking into account the curved panels, by 7/8 inch wide. The detached security chain can be removed or re-attached, depending on buyer preference. Weight: 83.8 grams

The dramatic focus of this 1970s necklace is a pendant of applied molten sterling silver on a trapezoidal frame. It is set with small jade and onyx cabochons, as well as one moonstone bead. It is suspended from a handmade sterling neckring with a hook and button clasp. The pendant and neckring are marked sterling; there is no maker’s mark. The pendant measures 2 ¼ inches by 1 3/8 inches; the neckring measures about 18 inches around. Gross weight: approximately 52.5 grams

This stunning pendant, in the late 1960s-70s Brutalist tradition, is composed of silver and set with an impressive sugar-loaf cabochon. The silver is darkened and features a highly oxidized center within a lattice-like design of roughly molded openwork. The back evokes molten lava with its wavy texture. The stone is likely a highly-included quartz, polished and showing hardly any wear, surprising given its 1/2-inch height. The bail is hand-formed and appears to be designed so that a thick chain is not necessary; it is possible the pendant could have been suspended from a neck ring. The top of the pendant near the bail shows a mark of 835 for silver content. There is what appears to be a ladder-like maker's mark next to it and the initials I.B.H on the other side. (The immediate area has been lightly polished in order to see the marks.) Research is continuing as to the maker and country of origin. The pendant measures 4 1/2 inches long, including the bail, and approximately 2 1/4 inches wide. Gross weight: 53 grams

A substantial sterling silver chain composed of doubled rings, bars and beads with connecting links; there is a central ring for attaching a pendant, or the chain can be worn as is. The secure box clasp bears what appears to be the maker’s mark of Beto, as pictured in Bille Hougart’s Mexican silver marks book, third edition, p. 27. The eagle 22 is the most legible mark; the others are not entirely clear. The chain measures 27 ½ inches long, unclasped. Weight: 38 grams

This substantial necklace is composed of sterling silver cable chain decorated with applied, loose rings of twisted sterling wire. Each chain link has two rings attached to it, completing a sophisticated and intelligent design that evokes flexibility and movement. The necklace has a secure spring-ring clasp, and bears a flat link with the number 950 or 930 for silver content and what looks like L37. Unclasped, it measures 38 ½ inches long. It dates at least to 1970, and could be older. Weight: 79.9 grams

This dynamic pin by a renowned New York modernist designer Ed Wiener is composed of a sterling silver angular form applied to a triangular, oxidized sterling silver panel. The original rollover clasp is in good working order; the back exhibits the mark of Ed Wiener/Sterling. The pin measures 1 7/8 inches long by 1 1/8 inches at the widest part. Weight: 10.3 grams

This bracelet exhibits a classic Scandinavian style extremely popular during the 1950s and 1960s. The dramatic enameling is in vivid colors, featuring panels of Nordic scenes alternating with blue and white cloisonne panels. The tongue and groove clasp is very secure and bears the mark of Ottar Hval, of Oslo. The bracelet measures 7 ½ inches long by 5/8 inch wide. Weight: 26.4 grams

This Norwegian necklace is composed of gilded sterling silver panels decorated with guilloche work under ivory-colored enamel and edged with black enamel and embossed flowers along the rim. The necklace clasp is in good working order, and bears the mark of Ivar T. Holth, of Oslo. The box part of the clasp is marked 925 for sterling; the tongue is marked for .830 silver. The enamel is intact, showing no losses or cracks. The necklace measures 15 inches long by 7/8 inch wide. Weight: 66.6 grams

A stunning design of rectangular panels with applied calla lilies, vines and 12-kt gold-filled leaves. This maker is unknown, but produced an impressive series of calla lily jewelry with hand-applied decoration. A folded end panel forms a very secure hook clasp. The bracelet has two safety chains. There is no maker’s mark, only marks for sterling and 1/20 12-kt. gold-filled decoration. The bracelet measures 1 ½ inches wide by 7 ¼ inches long. Weight: 86.3 grams

Decorated with applied wirework rosettes, this hoop necklace has an Asian feel, but sports Austrian import marks (hard to see in the photo). It is continuous, and doesn’t appear to have ever had a clasp. The necklace has a nice weight and a dramatic, contemporary look. The Austrian mark for silver content is illegible, but the necklace is probably .800 or .835 fineness; the mark indicates a registration in Vienna. Doubled, it measures about 14 ½ inches long. Weight: 74.8 grams

This substantial sterling silver bracelet is designed as a classic double-hinged bangle, with eight sides. The modernistic fold-over clasp serves as one hinge, and has the same design as the opposite link. The bracelet bears the mark of Barcelona, Spain, jeweler Puig Doria, which is still producing jewelry of various materials in addition to silver. The bracelet dates to the 1970s and measures ½ inch wide, with an interior circumference of about 7 inches. Weight: 66.3 grams

Six silver panels frame embossed, hand-painted porcelain panels, in a style very popular during the 1950s and early 1960s. They depict four chrysanthemums and two orchids, in shades of pink and purple, white, yellow centers all on black backgrounds. The bracelet was made by the Toshikane company of Japan, as marked on the box clasp. The metal has been tested for silver; the ring links between the panels are secure. The clasp is in good working order and the bracelet still has its original safety chain. The porcelains are in lovely condition with vivid colors. The bracelet measures 6 ½ inches long and about 7/8 inch wide.

Composed of gilded sterling, this delicate necklace features four-lobed stylized florals in white enamel, with translucent enameled centers imitiating half-pearls. It is marked with the David-Andersen scales, and the designer’s mark of Willy Winnaess. Secure, original hardware on both necklace and earrings, which are clip backs. Necklace measures 15 ¼ inches long; earrings are roughly 3/8 inch square. Necklace weight: 27.6 grams

A nice, early pair of cuff links from Newark, NJ, maker Krementz and Co. The 14kt gold oblong buttons have a recessed floral design, embedded with white, blue and yellow vitreous enamel. There is very minor wear to the enamel, visible only through magnification. The bridge bars are secure and exhibit no stress or wear; they bear the Krementz mark of 14 K. with an impressed collar button. They are lightweight, but well constructed, with the loops that connect the bridge bars on individual hinges. Each button measures ¾ inch long by ¼ inch at the widest area. Weight: 3.3 grams total

This classic sterling silver 19th-century bangle is decorated with an applied buckle and belt motif that features engraved leaves on a scored background. There is an engraved leaf on each side of the buckle decoration; the back is undecorated and exhibits a minor dent. The tongue and groove clasp is secure and the hinge is in excellent condition. The inside is marked only ‘Sterling Silver.’ The bracelet measures nearly ¾ inch wide, with an internal circumference of a little over 6 ½ inches. The opening measures 2 1/8 inches across. Weight: 25.7 grams

The pendant is composed of two hand-wrought flat pieces of sterling silver formed into an oval with three applied silver beads on one side. An irregular-shaped piece of polished moss agate, mounted in a sterling bezel, dangles in the center. The entire pendant is suspended from a substantial sterling chain of forged wire. One of the forged links near the hook clasp bears a crown with a W above; another link is marked with an overstruck W. Two of the links indicate sterling. The necklace measures 13 ½ inches long, clasped. The pendant alone measures 3 3/8 inches long, including the bale, and 2 inches wide.

Composed of 8-mm carnelian beads alternating with rough wirework beads of a slightly larger size and low-content silver. There appears to be a mark struck on one link (see photo 5). The chain measures approx. 32 inches long, unclasped. A modern spring-ring clasp has been added.

This stunning bracelet is composed of an applied cast floral layer on a plain, hinged bangle bracelet, with a secure tongue-and-groove clasp and security chain. The tongue bears French import marks that guarantee a silver content of at least .800, and probably dates anywhere from the 1930s to the 1950s. The bangle measures about ½ inch wide with an internal circumference of just under 7 inches. Gross weight: 28.4 grams