Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Mexican (255)

Exuding a primordial strength and keeping its secrets well hidden under layers of hand-etched scales, beading and overlay this stunning creature - I see it as a sea serpent but on second thought and if those appliques running along its spine are stylized feathers, it could be Quetzalcoatl as easily - is another treasure bearing the signature of Doris and her Corpus Artisans group of maestros...

Distinctly Egyptian Revival in its inspiration, the set of Mexican Deco dangle earrings at hand reminds me very much of elements in Margot de Taxco's "Cleopatra" parure; more specifically, the feathers of the "vulture crown" the pharaoh is wearing. More stylized in our case they are here involved in an elaborate knot forming sculptural dangles that hang off the sweetest repousse rosettes...

Richly colored azur-malachite stone is paired with warmly glowing sterling in this chunky modernist Mexican silver bracelet signed by none other than the maestro of Piedra y Plata, Felipe Martinez. Martinez is one of my absolute favorite Taxco silversmith and a superb lapidary as well. He has an uncanny ability to pair silver with stone that works every single time, as if the two materials were just made to be together...

An inspired lapidary and an ingenious designer Felipe Martinez opened his workshop “Piedra y Plata” in 1950. His work is a testament to his exceptional talent and his commitment to impeccable craftsmanship and the use of choice materials. I love all his jewelry but I believe that he was at its best working within the confines of modernism which he enriched with references to Mexico’s archeological past...

One of the best lapidaries in Taxco’s jewelry history, Felipe Martinez created amazing jewelry in many styles. The classy sterling silver and azur-malachite earrings at hand follow the “mozaico Azteca” line that was introduced by the Los Castillo workshop. Rich, dark blues, understated safe and a breath-taking splash of electric green come together in the stone inlay held securely in the most minimal “gypsy” setting...

Matching the set of earrings that is also available in my store (you can see the demi together in two of the photos) this Mexican silver and azur-malachite ring by maestro Felipe Martinez is an ode to the power of color. Striking greens and dark, rich blues delight the eye while the elegance of the sterling ring shoulders complement in the best possible way the magic of the stone. Currently a sz because of the size it comes with (easily removed) the ring is an sz 7 (can also be easily resized)...

Reddish brown jasper with light, almost invisible striations attracts the eye in this absolutely minimalist necklace and earrings set bearing the signature of Felipe Martinez and his Piedra y Plata workshop. Martinez was one of Taxco’s best lapidaries and the tight settings, the seamless transitions from sterling to stone in the demi at hand more than attest to the level of his craftsmanship...

Stunning and rare, especially in its use of the specific stone, this vintage Mexican silver necklace features a combination pin / pendant signed by Taxco's foremost lapidary, Felipe Martinez, and a substantial chain from the same period which I believe might be by the same maestro as it bears an Eagle assay mark that Martinez used. And yes, the superbly carved "mask" is teased out of tiger's eye stone though a more unusual kind that it often referred to as "hawk's" or "falcon's eye"...

Caricaturesque in the most endearing, spirit-lifting way this vintage Mexican silver fish brooch will put a smile on your face no matter rain or shine! Executed in confident repoussage which adds sculpturality and drama to a highly detailed body, it has a cheerful amethyst eye and thick, exaggerated lips. It looks to me as if it's singing down there in the deep - I can almost see tiny air bubbles coming out of its mouth. Measuring 2 3/4" long by 7/8" wide the brooch weighs 12.6 grams...

It's been a while since I presented a piece by Gerardo Lopez but he is one of my favorite Taxco maestros, a talented silversmith and designer who excelled in the art of repoussage. I believe Lopez was at his best when he created pectoral necklaces and clamper bracelets and it is an exquisite example of the latter form that I am showing here...

One of the most talented Taxco maestros, Gerardo Lopez was exceptional in the art of repoussage and his jewelry is sought after and avidly collected for its quality and inventive motif combinations. I have suggested in the past that he must have worked for the Los Castillo and / or Margot de Taxco because many of the motifs he uses are also found in the famous workshops' creations...

Very similar to one of Antonio Pineda's designs, this modernist sterling silver and amethyst bracelet is signed by a listed yet still unidentified early Taxco maestro. Formed by a series of truncated pyramidal links this is a substantial piece that holds its shape almost like a hinged bangle rather than a loosely articulated bracelet. The design's austere geometry is mediated by the rich color and soft curves of the amethyst cabs set in generously wide, raised bezels...

A classic design for Hector Aguilar, this bracelet is comprised of a series of heart-shaped links with deeply etched details neatly arranged between two lengths of thick, hand-made chain. A very imposing in its simplicity creation, it is nevertheless a hefty, quite serious piece of jewelry. It feels beguilingly “familiar” around the wrist and conforms to every movement effortlessly. A real pleasure to behold and to wear, a bracelet around which collections are built...

A classic, and much published, design for Hector Aguilar, the “masks” bracelet was not an example of the Taxco maestro’s work that I was particularly looking for...

The "Aztec Roses" motif is a classic for Mexican silver cuff bracelet from the Deco period. They are usually executed en repoussage, come in all widths and configurations and the most "famous" ones are signed by Sanborn's and Maciel. The impressive in heft and presence example I am presenting here differs from most in that its repousse work is closed in the back with an additional sheet of sterling. This technique serves at least two purposes as it protects the relief work and adds strength and ...

Usually referred to as irreverent and whimsical Hubert Harmon was a native of Illinois yet studied at the Parson's School of Design in Paris. In the 1940s, he and his wife Louise settled for a few years in Mexico where Hubert opened a workshop in Taxco and created some of the most interesting designs in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. A lover of parties, poodles and all creatures winged and mythical, he seems to have found inspiration in the country's folk art as well. The so-called...

I know and admire maestro C. Molina's work for its superb craftsmanship and its monumentality but I was still not prepared for this set of stupedying dangle earrings! There is big, there is massive and then, there is the pair of shadowbox stunners I am presenting here tonight. Maestro Molina excelled in the application of the shadowbox technique which allowed him to create jewelry which are generous in proportions and convey a dramatic sense of depth while at the same time being light and easy t...

How big does a piece of jewelry have to be before it qualifies to be called monumental? I think at 4.25'“ tall, this Mexican Deco butterfly brooch definitely fits the bill. Fauna- and flora-themed pieces are not rare within the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry yet examples of astounding proportions like our brooch come far and in between. The semi-translucence of the stone is here enhanced by the variegated color which progresses from lucid white to sage green. And even though the stone...