Catalog (327)

Admittedly my favorite Mexican modernist, Salvador Teran seems to have never had a "bad" moment during his career. There is not one piece of his that I have come upon which I have not loved for its quirky abstraction, its sometimes tongue-in-cheek genius, its magical way of playing with layers, abstraction and oxidation. The mod pendant presented here provides a good illustration, I believe, of the point I am trying to make. The rendering borders on cubism yet at the same time, the pendant regis...

One of the better known "less celebrated" maestros of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, AEM (or, as I like to refer to him, AE Heart because of the heart-shaped M that hugs the signature's other two initials) lived and worked in Mexico City. Of good weight and exhibiting very good craftsmanship, AEM's jewelry often emulate pieces by his more famous contemporaries but he created many original designs himself as well. I am particularly attracted to his hinged bangle bracelets and I also love hi...

An early design by the Los Castillo taller (could it have been created by their cousin, Salvador Teran, when he was still working for them?), the “fish skeleton” is considered a classic and has seen many emulations and reproductions over the years. The hinged bracelet at hand, wrought in thick silver sheet with copper bead accents, is a modernist treasure that was made for small wrists. Ideal for all of us who love vintage Mexican clampers but can never enjoy them because they are usually...

Matching the "festoon with teardrops" necklace I recently sold, this set of earrings by the Los Castillo workshop is truly glamorous! I love the flair of the bifurcated element at the top with its curvaceous central semi-sphere which mirrors the sculptural elegance of the teardrop. And, please, note the playful articulation of the semi-circular links forming the main dangle. Aren't they just a pleasure? The earrings measure 1 3/4" long by 1 1/4" wide and weigh 17.5 grams (for the set). They are ...

Vintage Topazio Portuguese sterling silver hinged bangle bracelet in a classic for the genre "harvest calendar" design in which different months of the year are illustrated by either a flower, fruit or other staple that characterizes them. I love these bracelets for their representation of the cyclical nature of time and their allusion to earlier decades when the availability of food depended on one's location and the specific season. In the example at hand the figural decoration is distinct and...

Based on Salvador Teran's sought-after "dancers" design, the bracelet I am presenting here was crafted in the period the renowned Mexican modernist was active by one of his contemporary Taxco maestros. Absolute minimalism, strong graphics and a sense of unencumbered, fluid motion characterize the figural overlay which dominates the shadow-box construction of the three central links. Just as in Salvador's original there are curve-topped disks and stars scattered in the frames, elements which make...

Continuing on the theme of Etruscan style jewelry, this time I am presenting you with a big, fun Mexican Deco example that will satisfy both your eyes and your ears! Not only is this a beautiful, very sculptural piece, it is also a chiming pendant, emitting a sweet sound whenever you shake it. Music to the ears, candy to the eyes the pendant measures 1 5/8” tall (including the bail) by 1 1/4” wide (at the waist) and weighs 32.2 grams. It is marked “MEXICO” (partially stamped) on the b...

I love vintage Portuguese silver bracelets, the repousse hinged bangles more specifically, for which makers like Topazio and Safir are well known. They come in all sizes and designs, they are ideal for bracelet stacks but can be just as easily enjoyed worn alone. The example at hand is floral, with sculptural roses and dahlias in full bloom and in bud running its perimeter, rendered more dramatic by the patina time has bestowed upon them. The bracelet has an 7” inner circumference (clasped) an...

A symbol of good luck, abundance and contentment the “laughing Buddha” medallions adorning the links of this Chinese silver bracelet are carved out of turquoise and have rich detail. Slightly graduated in size the are held against classic Deco tight mesh panels overlaid with filigree tendrils, tiny beading and delicate plants in full bloom. The stone’s blueish green hue soothes the eye and its natural matrix enhances the medallions’ sculpturality. The bracelet has an inner circumference ...

Lariat necklaces are a favorite of mine and when I come upon a good Mexican example, I make every effort to bring it to One Good Eye Silver. Truth be told, they don't come up as often as other forms but it is an exciting quest to pursue. The late Deco / retro piece I am presenting here is a clipless version - you can adjust it by tying a loose knot at the desired height and change the way it looks whenever you feel like it. Luxuriously thick, the twist rope chain glows with the beauty of a life ...

Welcome Spring with this set of vibrantly colored sterling silver vermeil and enamel butterfly brooches by renowned Norwegian enamelist Hroar Prydz. Made around the middle of the 20th c., the pair celebrates the warmth of yellows and the coolness of sparkling blue with delicate details in brown. Just take a closer look at the richness of pattern in the silver underneath the enamels that makes the butterfly wings look almost real. Each brooch measures 1 1/2" wide by 13/16" tall and their combined...

Born in Florence, Italy but spending her life as a designer and silversmith in Lima, Peru, Graziella Laffi found inspiration in the art of her adopted country's old civilizations, respectfully situating ancient motifs in her own, mid-century context. Laffi is habitually referred to by all who loyally collect her work as "the Spratling of Peru", a parallel that bespeaks the originality of her work and the quality of the jewelry, hollowware and decorative items she created. In the brooch presented...

An iconic personality for advocates of female empowerment, Jeanne d’ Arc is not a figure I expected to see on a piece of jewelry by the Los Castillo. I look at the pendant and I see Margot de Taxco at her drawing table, sketch pencil in hand, making the French heroine materialize on paper before she is cast in sterling silver. Very unusual - I have never seen one before - the pendant is crafted “cameo style”, with Jeanne d’ Arc on horseback, brandishing her sword in full armor for the fo...

A classic design for Hector Aguilar, this bracelet is comprised of a series of heart-shaped links with deeply etched details neatly arranged between two lengths of thick, hand-made chain. A very imposing in its simplicity creation, it is nevertheless a hefty, quite serious piece of jewelry. It feels beguilingly “familiar” around the wrist and conforms to every movement effortlessly. A real pleasure to behold and to wear, a bracelet around which collections are built. Measuring a tad above ...

My second belt buckle for the day, this is a completely different piece from the Los Castillo example I already presented. Hand-wrought in sterling silver it is big, bold and absolutely beautiful. Inspired by the world that surrounds us, it is just one of those treasures that defy my photographic skills and I am afraid I failed to impart the silky sculpturality of its heart-shaped floral motifs. Not signed for maker yet obviously studio-made and reflecting the 1940s naturalist turn in jewelry de...

Made in one of the countries of mainland South-east Asia which were, at the time, under French colonial control, this silver repousse brooch bespeaks the level of craftsmanship local silversmiths had attained and their attention to composition and design execution. Hand-crafted during the first decades of the 20th c., I believe, the brooch is characteristic of the style and techniques that flourished in that area of the world. Minutely etched repoussage with crisp delineation in the scene's diff...

I have a weakness for Italian silver jewelry and vanity pieces from the opening decades of the 20th c. and enameled compacts with figural decoration are a big favorite of mine. I admittedly don’t “powder my nose” yet these small treasures are worthy of being proudly displayed as miniature works of art. The richly-colored, very nicely detailed courting scene at the center of the compact at hand is a marvel in and of itself. But this round “box” keeps giving with its intricate cutwork th...

Though it is not uncommon to find Mexican silver fur pins, it is usually single pieces that are available. Here, however, there is a pair bearing the signature of the Los Castillo in a “bow and flower” design. I am not sure if the workshop ever made a whole parure available in this specific design - I have had the small bow necklace / bracelet sets in the past but this is an enhanced version, with more elements added to the bow and the bow itself bigger and fancier. I have seen one or two br...