Catalog: Archives (471)

Generously long, with a hefty chain and an unusual stylized floral design, this early Mexican Deco necklace combines silver and copper in a playful yet still bold way. The graduated tulip links bring to my mind classic representations of the flower in Ottoman art - the blooms are slender and tall as opposed to the hybrids we are used today which are shorter and rounder...

Big and beautifully aged this floral sterling silver Hector Aguilar brooch is representative of the 1940s' love affair with all motifs from nature. The flower is here layered, with deep hand-chased details in the petals and foliage, a strong curving stem and cluster of small beads right at its center. I love the way the bloom is wide open, its face turned to the sun, taking in light and heat and turning it to color, aromas and beauty for our visual enjoyment...

Often referred to as the "Spratling of Peru", Graziella Laffi needs no introduction to the knowledgeable collector of vintage Peruvian silver jewelry. Inspired by the country's rich pre-Colombian heritage which she interpreted in a mod, timeless way, Laffi's pieces are sought-after and just a pleasure to have and behold. The hand-hammered necklace at hand, oxidized and endearingly assymetrical, has four figural, sculptural charms hanging off it...

Slick and elegant in such a less-is-more way this set of vintage sterling silver Kupitaan Kulta modernist earrings was created in Finland in the 1950s-60s period. It seems to me that in this set Elis Kauppi tempered bare bones minimalism with the lightest possible trace of vermeil that covers the inner surfaces of the earrings' rectangular building blocks and gives the illusion of a textured finish. Spectacularly beautiful they measure 2 3/8" long by 3/8" wide and weigh 7.2 grams (for the set)...

Dated for 1972 and signed by Kultaseppa Salovaara Ky of Finland, this sterling silver and rose quartz hinged bangle bracelet epitomizes the less-is-more attitude of Scandinavian design. There is nothing superfluous here - everything serves a purpose and at the same time contributes to the bracelet's serene, confident beauty. Yet I think that the strongest element is the crystalline, soft pink of the rose quartz spheres...

Fur pins are not a common find in the field of Mexican silver jewelry collecting yet during my years of buying and selling I have bumped upon a few examples and I can tell you that the best bore the Los Castillo signature - like the one I am presenting here. The "koi fish" is a signature design for the famous workshop yet we all know it was created by Margot de Taxco when she was still married to Antonio Castillo...

There is not one form of jewelry in which the Los Castillo did not excel yet I think their big, bold repousse brooches are simply above and beyond! The example I am presenting here, most probably an early creation if design numbers are indeed good indicators of when during the workshop's life a specific idea was transformed into jewelry, reflects the Egyptian Revival of the Deco period...

Huge, meticulously worked, with such detail and rich presence this Mexican Deco sterling silver bird of paradise is one of my absolutely favorite brooch designs. I have to admit that I really love brooches - I seek them out and try to find the best examples for One Good Eye Silver and it doesn't matter to me if they are "in" or not at the specific point in time. Brooches are classy; they can be delicate and romantic; and they can be bold and beautiful...

Big, beautifully crafted and early as is indicated by the low design number this Deco Los Castillo silver brooch is wrought en repoussage in what seems to have been a favored motif among Mexican silversmiths and designers at the time. Fern leaves inspired rings, clamper bracelets, brooches and necklaces and of course, earrings. The design comes in variations enough to ensure that everybody will find a piece that appeals to them. The specific version, however, I have never encountered before...

Rare 1930s matched pair of William Spratling tin candleholders in a towering design embellished with bands of stamped stars and full moons, a scalloped rim and hand-cut tin twist-ribbon collars. Known primarily for their silver jewelry, cutlery and holloware, most of the renowned Taxco workshops engaged in the production of tinware, wood furniture and textiles as well, especially during the first decades of their existence...

The quintessential Art Deco designer, Abraham Paz is one of the earliest maestros of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. He worked in Mexico City and many of the designs we associate with Fred Davis are actually Paz's creations. His minimalist "masks", shield-form links and tiered ring settings epitomize the elegant geometry the 1920s and 1930s are known for while also foreshadowing the less-is-more attitude of modernism...

Based, I believe, on a Hector Aguilar creation a gorgeous necklace with links in a stylized cactus flower design made by one of my favorite "less celebrated" makers who signs his work with initials A and E in a heart-shaped M. This is a masterfully made necklace with very good weight and it sits like a dream around the neck. Not to overdo it but its patina is also to die for. The necklace measures 16 1/2" long (wearable) by just over 7/8" wide and weighs 76.9 grams...

A superb example by my favorite "heart" artist, again inspired by Margot de Taxco's beloved koi fish designs this is a pair of earrings worthy of the best collection! One cannot fail to admire the confident, pronounced repoussage and the crispness in detail and finishing - both qualities that characterize the work of only the best maestros...

One of my favorite designs of the so-called "archaeological" genre, I have seen similar pieces bearing Victoria's signature but this one is made by an artist who signs his name with initials "AE" in a heart-shaped "M"...

Vintage assembled set of Antonio Pineda bracelets in a mod, minimalist design that features deeply carved semi-spheres out of each bangle's perimeter, with the empty areas oxidized to add drama to an otherwise simple form. I am very partial to sets of bangles and this pair wears comfortably with its discrete musicality reminding you of its presence. The bangles have an inner circumference of 8" and their width is 1/4". They weigh a combined 42.0 grams and are both fully and appropriately marked...

Antonio Pineda cuffs don't surface very often and this specific design is even more difficult to find. An ode to the art of a-symmetry, the cuff is wrought in the maestro's favorite fine ,.970 alloy and quite substantial. The stone that adorns its widest end, rich in greens and blues, is agate, I think, but it might be a very special kind of turquoise as well. Warm patina, perfectly conveyed less-is-more attitude and Antonio's exquisite finishing are all present here to please the eye. The cuff ...

Dramatic Antonio Pineda modernist silver ring wrought in his signature .970 alloy this piece is all about powerful, unencumbered movement! I am wearing it as I write and even though I can see it and I can touch it, I still I find it quite amazing that such a "simple" design, such an non-embellished execution can muster the strength of a tidal wave, cast in it fine silver and restrain it on the finger. I think one of Antonio's most inspired moments and a must-have ring for the discerning collecto...

A celebrated book piece Antonio Pineda's "crescent" design is a veritable feast for the eyes in its less-is-more combination of high purity silver and glistening black onyx. Undoubtedly a classic both when it comes to vintage Mexican modernist jewelry but also for Antonio collectors, the necklace's presence is powerful and attracts the eye in a way difficult to resist. The version presented here is my favorite - the links between the individual crescents are topped with a repousse semi-sphere. S...