Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (469)

I have said many times in the past that I consider the Los Ballesteros workshop Taxco’s foremost creator of the so-called “mask” jewelry. And among their best are their hinged bangle bracelets, a fantastic example of which I am presenting here. The effigy is carved out of tiger’s eye, a stone which creates a magical sensation with its molten gold, glistening caramel and rich chocolate browns...

Margot de Taxco's des. no 5247 is a modernist "beaded wave" creation and presented here is a set comprised of bracelet and matching clip-on earrings. I will dare say that Margot did not delve too much into modernism but whenever she did it, the results were equally inspired and carefully crafted as the rest of her work. The sculptural quality of the undulating links is matched by the curves of the semi-spheres set within them in a channel that is both pierced and contained by a raised border...

Big, heavy and bold, the Los Ballesteros “beehive” pendant can be found with “masks” carved in amethyst, dyed calcite, azurite, black onyx and even obsidian yet I have never seen one like the example I am thrilled to be presenting here! Very reminiscent of Old World “moon face” jewelry, the portrait in our case is rendered in a light, lemon-colored stone...

There are buckle bracelets and then, there are BUCKLE BRACELETS! And a spectacular Mexican Deco specimen of the latter I am proud to be presenting here. Honestly, however, all the aaahs and ooohs aside, this is one of the most glamorous mesh jewelry I have encountered even though its design elements are few and quite simple, if one thinks about it. Extra wide and finely woven, the sterling mesh is flexible and comfortably wraps around the wrist...

Rare Mexican Deco silver repousse figural necklace, its five graduated links featuring what I believe to be a neo-Aztec interpretation of Cinteotl, one of the three goddesses of corn and fertility. Bare-breasted and kneeling in a corn field, holding in her hands an ear of maize and adorned with earrings and a pendant necklace, it is in fact two different figures that we are looking at; while the bodies and what surrounds them is the same, the jewelry and the faces themselves are different...

A prolific maestro and one of Taxco’s best modernists, Sigi Pineda enjoyed a long, fruitful career and his jewelry is loved and sought after by aficionados of vintage Mexican jewelry. Made of sterling silver in an asymmetrical design, this hinged bangle bracelet plays with geometry and juxtaposes the shiny surface of the metal with the deep blackness of the stone. Eye-catching, beautifully made, very very mod - and a version of Sigi’s hinged bracelets that doesn’t come up very often...

One of the few female designers we know of in Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance and a gifted modernist at that, Erika Hult de Corral created jewelry that attracts the eye and captures one's imagination. I am particularly fond of her "moonscape" designs that touch upon biomorphic brutalism, if you allow me the combination, yet the sense of unimpeded, fluid motion and the abstraction present in this particular bracelet reflect, in my opinion, one of her best moments...

One of Margot de Taxco’s most romantic, delicately elegant yet still eye-catching and beautifully made necklaces, the “foliate bow” is characterized by generous micro-beading accented by just the right touch of oxidation. The chain’s riveted links rest perfectly around the neck while the intricately woven central station brings to mind earlier, Old World “lovers’ knot” jewelry...

Generously long and definitely mod, this Erika Hult de Corral necklace is a minimalist little treasure! Not only does it wear like a dream - for me it is the epitome of "less-is-more", except for the luscious greens that make the polished stone centering it a treat for the eye. This is a pre-1980 example of her work and quite versatile since you can easily wear it with that classy black dress or have it casually adorn your favorite worn T-shirt...

Casting of very good quality, a huge amethyst gemstone and a long chain with figural links combine in this Italian Peruzzi style pendant necklace to create one of those pieces that collectors covet and all of us dream about. I believe we have here a convergence of two Revival movements - Classical Revival in the sterling chain with its theater mask links and Gothic Revival with the two dragons flanking that amazing amethyst...

Made in the very late 1940s or in the opening years of the 1950s at the latest, this Marcel Boucher sterling silver necklace is a Mexican piece from the renowned designer’s “Parisina” line. Parisina pieces are not easy to find - Boucher had them made in Mexico for a few years around WWII because the war effort had put restrictions in the availability and use of silver. Yet this specific design, I have never encountered before ...

Bearing a combination of hallmarks that dates it around 1939 this William Spratling ring is wrought in high purity .980 silver and has developed the most amazing patina during its long and - I am sure - happy life. According to Goddard, Spratling used to refer to this design as the "crowned pyramid", an appellation that makes more sense if one looks at the matching bracelet from above as it lays on a flat surface...

Ultimately modernist in its approach to personal adornment, with Enrique Ledesma's signature perfection in the marriage of silver and stone, a necklace and earrings set with triangular links of sterling framing richly colored azur-malachite. Honesty of materials, craftsmanship of the highest level and immaculate finishing create a superb example of Taxco lapidary and silversmithing prowess. The necklace measures 15 3/4" long (wearable) by 5/8" wide while the clip-back earrings are 7/8" by 3/4"...

Stupendously beautiful, a vintage Deco Mexican silver bracelet that is not for the faint of heart! This is one of the most impressive, visually stunning examples of Mexico's early 20th c. jewelry I have seen...

Referred to as the “shells” or sometimes even “snails” bracelet, Margot de Taxco’s des. 5104 is a series of fleshy, perfectly swirling repousse links that feel so comfortable around the wrist, you might take them as an extension of your body. The example at hand vibrates with that warm light only well-aged, well-loved silver acquires and the thick sterling sheet used to craft the bracelet has allowed it to mature without burdening it with the scars and blemishes of age. Measuring a wea...

The name of Plateria Cortes, a Taxco retail store is often found on jewelry signed by Enrique Ledesma and this is the case with the modernist sterling silver and green stone necklace at hand. This type of curved trapezoid links embellished with inlay is a signature design for the maestro yet here there are two sections of stone in each station which is a welcome variation that does not come up as often as the typical single segment. Predominantly green, the color of the azur-malachite is deep an...

One of the few female designers of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of, Erika Hult de Corral excelled in the creation of slick abstract and brutalist jewelry. She started creating her own work in Taxco’s “middle period” and continued being active in the post-1980 years as well. Big, bold and beautiful, the result of the artist’s few yet perfectly placed brushstrokes, the dove-shaped pendant at hand conveys that precious sense of elegant, unimpeded motion. Measuring 3”...

One of the Mexico City maestros active in the first decades of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Abraham Tobias was a contemporary of Matilde Poulat's and he created jewelry in the so-called Mexico City style repousse. Many of his pieces are based on Matl originals and admittedly the boldness and quality of his repoussage is very very close to, if not often en par with, Matilde's own. Tobias excelled in the crafting of cuff bracelets as well - one can find them in various widths, usually boas...